Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Hand Knitting Design Certification


I'm often asked about training and certification for the knitting industry. Most of my peers are self taught. A few have fashion school degrees that focused on industrial applications of knitting for the retail world. I have a background in custom garment construction mainly from the local board of education. Classes had no certification and fell under continuing education for adults. I worked mainly with woven fabrics and used cut and sew techniques with machine knit yardage. I did classes in millinery, tailoring, pattern drafting and couturier sewing. Eventually I taught for the board giving classes in basic sewing, sewing fake fur coats and (big surprise) I ran a hand knit design class.

I recently discovered this, it is the first mainstream Hand Knitting Design Certification program I have ever heard of. It doesn't appear to be part of the regular program as it is under the Rhode Island School of Design Continuing Education header on their web site.

This online program is in the UK. 

The Craft Yarn Council has a teacher certification program here. They also have begun to offer their Certified Instructors Program (CIP) in association with the Center for Professional Studies at the Fashion Institute of Technology's (FIT).

The Knitting Guild Association has a Master Program here.

I'd love to hear in the comments from anyone who has personal experience with any of these programs.

ETA: The link in the comment below does work. It does not reflect the usual hyperlink colour perhaps due to a blogger comments limitation? You can link here. There is a Ravelry group here.

Monday, March 18, 2013

The Economics of Knitting - Time and Money


There is no way around it, knitting is a slow process and pattern publishing can be even slower when you do everything from start to finish. There are times I envy designers who go with publishers who handle everything else other than the actual initial design. Some of them take all responsibility for the grading, editing and photography. I've had success using sample knitters and I keep my fingers crossed that they will continue knitting for me in the future.

The following is an incomplete list of all of the steps I take to create a pattern. Not everything applies to every pattern, for example a shawl doesn't require grading. What the list doesn't reflect is the number of times I check and recheck all of the numbers and the details such as the yarn name, fibre content and yardage. I don't do everything on the list by myself, some things are done by others which impacts the timeline to publication. It also doesn't reflect the total number of hours of work that goes into every pattern.


Initial swatching
Blocking swatches
Writing the general information section 
Charting
Writing stitch patterns
Writing each segment of the instructions
Knitting of the item

Schematic
Grading
Convert all measurements cm/inch
Work out yarn requirements for each size
Photograph
Editing
Post on Patternfish
Post on Ravelry
Add to slide show for my blog


To help me with this list and some of the many, many non-design related business duties I have to get done I hired a part time assistant.  She has been doing everything from winding yarn, pattern checking and working on a spreadsheet of my expenses and earnings. She usually works about four hours a week which is not as much as I would like but keeps things in balance in terms of dollars in and out. I'm very focused on not going into debt. At the same time I'm happy to reinvest my earnings. We will see how things work out in the future. I certainly never thought I'd need an assistant but I'm quite happy with the decision to hire one now that I have.


Friday, March 15, 2013

An Interview with....Alexa and Emily of Tin Can Knits




Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Tin Can Knits here, their Ravelry group is here.

Where do you find inspiration?

Alexa: I find inspiration almost anywhere, but I am particularly inspired by the natural landscapes of Vancouver and the Pacific Northwest that inspired the designs and concept for Pacific Knits.

 
Emily: I see patterns in nature, art and architecture, and imagine how these shapes and structures could be adapted into lace patterns, or inform the lines of a garment.  I also am inspired by the act of knitting itself; the simple way that fabric grows as yarn is looped, and looped and looped around itself.
 
What is your favourite knitting technique?

Alexa: It has to be cables, they are so simple yet they look so impressive. 

Emily:
I love lace and prefer to knit garments or accessories with shaping that is simple, rhythmic, and easy-to-remember, as I don't like to count rows or referring to the pattern too often. 
 
How did you determine your size range?

We designed the Gramps cardigan because we loved the idea of seeing little babies and kids in 'grown up' looking clothes.  And there are so many adorable children's patterns that would be perfect for adults!  The vision of matching father-daughter or mom-baby knits has inspired us from the beginning.  At Tin Can Knits we believe in providing a very high value to our customers, and our sweater patterns are like 3 patterns for the price of one, with baby, child and adult sizes.  While it is definitely more work to design, grade, tech-edit and test-knit 16 sizes (rather than the traditional 5-7), we believe it is worthwhile to provide this kind of flexibility; and our customers agree!  
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/antler-cardigan
 
 
Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

Alexa: While I spend most of my time working on my own designs these days I wouldn't be half the knitter and pattern writer I am today without knitting other people's patterns. 

Emily: I am completely blown away by the wealth of talent in hand-knitting design.  I love to look at other designers' work, but I try not to compare our work to theirs.  Alexa and I have become pretty clear about the kind of work we want to produce, and the longer we work together the more I feel we are hitting the mark.

 
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

As our pattern standards have developed, we have become more concise in our pattern writing.  Knitters' skill levels vary, and some customers require further guidance, so we continually develop in-depth tutorials to illustrate the techniques used in our patterns.  <http://tincanknits.com/techniques.html>
We produce patterns and books for print, so it is not feasible nor beneficial to include all of this detailed information in each pattern.  Also, when writing patterns in 16 sizes, the pattern writing must be very concise or the pattern length would become unmanageable.  I believe these constraints result in designs which have a pleasing simplicity.
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tofino-surfer

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

Knitting something is part of the design process, so we always knit our designs ourselves.  In developing our garment designs, we knit both a child and an adult sample, as we find this is necessary to test our sizing / design assumptions, and to develop a clear pattern and fun-to-knit design.  After grading and preliminary tech editing, our patterns are tested by a large group of test knitters (most sizes knit by two or more people).  Our testers give us feedback on fit for each of the garment sizes, pattern readability, accuracy, and yardage.   We would never be able to knit each of the 16 sizes ourselves!

Also, to illustrate the range of sizes our patterns are designed in, and create adorable kid / dad shots, we have been working with sample knitters more in the last few months; for example in creating the multiple samples in our holiday collection, Great White North.  <http://tincanknits.com/collection-greatwhitenorth.html>


How are you managing the decision making in your partnership?

We are almost a collaborative team so we make decisions together. Sometimes one of us will take the lead on a project and delegate to the other but that is more for management of specific projects than for business decisions.

Where did your company name come from?

We thought of two little girls playing with tin cans as phones, you know, with a string running between them.  As we have worked almost exclusively long distance (with Emily living first on Vancouver Island and now in Edinburgh) we do business online or over the phone, our logo / name is fairly accurate! 
 
 
 
Did you do a formal business plan?

When we wrote our first book, 9 Months of Knitting, we simply wrote the book, and when it was done it meant we were in business together!  Since then we have become more focused on Tin Can Knits and left our other jobs to work full time.  Before publishing Pacific Knits, we put together a business plan and goals, defined what success means to us, and brainstormed strategies for getting there.  We are learning to assess new projects to determine how they will contribute to our larger goals and plans
.

 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/great-white-north
 
 
Do you have a mentor?
There are many people we look up to but not a mentor per se. 
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Who do we dream to emulate? We'll never tell..... 
 
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
Most of our work is sold online.  The Internet is essentially what allowed us to start our business.  While we absolutely LOVE and support our local yarn stores we also love Ravelry and knitting blogs!  
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gramps
 
 
Do you use a tech editor?
Because we are a team, we each tech edit the other's patterns.  Combined with rigorous test-knitting of almost all sizes of each pattern, we achieve a very high level of pattern accuracy. 
 
How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Alexa: not always that well. It's tough to find time for everything in life and sometimes I drag my kids to photo shoots, yarn stores, and the post office too much but I'm starting to find a good work/life balance. 

Emily: I must admit I am currently pretty terrible at achieving balance... Tin Can Knits is new and we are working very hard to create excellent work and bring it to market.  During deadlines I work far too many evenings and weekends.  On the flip side, the flexibility of owning your own business means it is easy to take holidays, and I have travelled quite extensively since we started Tin Can Knits; visiting Spain, Germany, England, Mexico, and coming home to Canada too!
 
How do you deal with criticism?

There are different kinds of criticism; the uninformed (and often quite unhelpful) criticism that comes from people with no understanding or appreciation of the process and thought that goes into the design of hand-knitting patterns.  When we receive that kind of criticism we respond politely, then try to forget it.

The other kind of criticism, which we love to receive, is that of our peers who are participating in the industry.  Receiving feedback and constructive criticism from other knitters, designers, editors, and yarn shop owners is highly valuable as it helps us improve our products, business practices, and the way we communicate with our audience.  While criticism may momentarily wound our pride, it is an honour when more experienced businesspeople share it!
 
 
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/campfire
 
 
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
The jury is still out on this one, but we are getting closer all the time. 
 
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Emily: To succeed, you must recognize what you are doing as a full-on career and a business, and work at least as hard or harder than you would as a professional designer in another field like graphic design or architecture.  From the outside it may look like an ideal and rosy career path, but often I don't feel like I have any time to knit because I am tech editing, working on layouts, writing blog posts, or pitching our next book idea!  And when I do sit down to knit, it is usually because I have a sample sweater than needs to be shipped in a few days, so have to cram in a few days of 10-hour a day knitting!  But it is worth it, because I find it extremely rewarding to own and direct my own business, and to work with Alexa who is a very supportive, positive and creative partner.
Alexa: It's more than just the love of knitting and pattern development. To really pursue a career in knitting involves a whole host of other skills and commitments that may not seem obvious at first glance. While I wouldn't have it any other way, it is still work! 
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/great-white-north
 

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

How to Search Inside a Blog


Did you know that you can easily search for specific posts within my blog? 

As a blog writer I am also a blog reader, so I'm used to searching archives for specific topics. Recently a friend mentioned that she finds blogs to be very disorganized and has difficulty finding specific posts. I thought perhaps some of my readers could benefit from a few search tips.

Take a look at the upper left hand corner of the navy bar just above my blog name, right beside the orange B logo for blogger. There is a little white box with a magnifying glass as the search symbol. If you type in the word sleeve and click on the magnifying glass you will get this response. You can read those posts and then at the very bottom on the right hand side you can get to more posts by clicking on next posts. It will bring up every post with the word sleeve and you can scan more quickly for what you are looking for.

You can also use a search engine. If you type in knittingrobin.blogspot.com sleeve. You will get this. Just use the blog name and a topic word. The results will vary depending on what search engine you use.

If you use google, you can type advanced search in the search box. The next screen that comes up gives you all sorts of boxes to search in different ways and six boxes up from the bottom of that long list you can type in the blog name, knittingrobin.blogspot.com. You will get this if you search for the word sleeve.

I'm also starting a topic index, you can find it at the top of the page just above the current post.

Let me know if this helps.

Monday, March 11, 2013

The YarnOver SleepOver Retreat

I'm going to be part of a new event. It's just a month until we hold our first annual YarnOver SleepOver retreat weekend. I hope that some of my local followers will be there.





You can get more details here.

Friday, March 8, 2013

An Interview with... Jennifer Dassau


Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.



You can find Jennifer here and here.
 
Where do you find inspiration?

I have a dual path to the things I design; first, they are personal, as in a shape I want to wear or a technique I want to explore, or maybe I have a new yarn that MUST be made into something lovely. Second, I foster an awareness of style trends, which really happens automatically if one is mindful of what's going on in the world around them. Since I started designing, I've become much more visually aware as well, because inspiration can be anywhere from the color of the sky to a street vignette.

What is your favourite knitting technique? 

That varies over time depending on what is enthralling at the moment, but my perennial go-to techniques are short rows and anything that I can use to create asymmetry.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pauroxo
 
How did you determine your size range?

I like to provide as wide a range as possible for adult garments, typically at least 8 sizes. I'll grade from a 30" to a 50"+ bust if the design allows it. 

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I love to look! No one designs in a vacuum, and in fact it's helpful to be aware of what's out there, to prevent spending a lot of time and resources on something that might be identical to an existing design. That happens sometimes, and there's nothing wrong with two people developing the same idea independently, but I'd rather put the energy into something non-duplicative if possible. My idea books are overflowing, so I'm confident that I have enough alternatives if I need to scrap something.
  

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/plixi
 
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

Is it a controversy? I will say that one of the biggest challenges of writing patterns is defining your audience, and finding the right balance between concise yet helpful instructions. I aim to write the text for the intermediate knitter, but include a very detailed stitch glossary, as well as links to outside tutorials by myself or others as I think helpful. Digital self-publishing is really great for this, because you can include or refer to many helpful things, while keeping the actual written instructions pithy. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/snug-13

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I knit every design sample myself, which is essential for me as I "revise on the needle" as needed, from my pre-drafted pattern instructions. Typically I have called for test knitters from my established pool to test a few sizes/samples, but in some cases am moving away from that.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

That's evolving, as I began designing sheerly for the fun challenge of it. In the past year, however, I've dedicated myself to growing my business in an organized way.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fireside-2

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

As a relatively new designer, the internet has been huge from day one; I also think that it is the ability to self-publish that motivated me to pursue pattern design seriously.

Do you use a tech editor?

Absolutely; although I'm quite technical and good with detail and writing, my editor is indispensable. You always need another set of eyes.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/river-union-cardi


How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Constant vigilance! My husband and I both work separately from home, and we have two kids - so there's a lot going on. It's exactly that, a balance; the increased time designing has replaced personal knitting and other fiber craft.

How do you deal with criticism?

It's always most helpful to try to get something productive and positive from a negative. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

I tell my daughter all the time that you have to follow your dreams. Doing what you love really matters, but any artistic career will have better opportunity for success if you research the market, plan your business, and stay flexible.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rhadamanthys

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Knitting Myths - The Sweater Curse

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/seanair


It's a well known knitting myth that knitting a sweater for a significant other before marriage can lead to the knitting curse that the relationship will break up. There is even a Ravelry group testing the curse. You can find it here. There's another group for believers of the curse here.

The belief in this curse is so pervasive there is a Wikipedia page here. That page does give some alternative explanations for the myth.

Has it happened to me you ask? Unfortunately yes! Do I believe the myth? No, but then I'm not really the superstitious type.