An Interview with...Paola Albergamo

Graffiti (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/graffiti-9)

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Paola here on Ravelry.

Antinebbia (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/antinebbia)

Where do you find inspiration?

I have two main sources of inspiration, depending on whether I'm working on an accessory or on a garment. 

In accessories, I am mostly inspired by contemporary abstract art. This is particularly true when we speak about shawls, which I imagine as wearable paintings made with yarn. I love seeing color, harmony and shapes in pictures, paintings, street art and graffiti, and I try to convey this kind of inspiration in my patterns.

When I'm working on garments, I'm interested in wearability for - I confess! - my body shape. I have a sewing background, and I love translating sewing model making into knitting: it poses a lot of geometric/math problems that I like to solve, it's like playing with puzzles!

In both cases, I love unconventional and unusual constructions, bright colors and strong contrasts.

I am by no means a minimalist, I want my creations to be noticed, because they are different from anything you can buy in a shop.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

When following others' designs, I love every technique. Cable, lace, colorwork, you name it!

When designing I'd say that short rows, modular knitting, and brioche (not necessarily in this order) are the techniques that I use more often and that I feel more natural to me. 

Gocce (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gocce)

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I think that it is simply impossible not to look at other designers' work!

I try to follow what's going on in the knitting world, with the intention of excluding the ideas that have been already "used" by others.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I knit my samples myself, because I like the process and because I often change my mind on some details (and yes, sometimes on the entire construction!) while knitting. I know that this is slowing down my productivity, but I enjoy this freedom so much!

I use as many test knitters I can, to be sure that my patterns are correct. I know many say that a tech editor is enough, but I am a former software developer and I cannot even think that an algorithm (a knitting pattern can surely be interpreted as an algorithm) can work if not thoroughly tested. And I love testing! It is like a mini-KAL.

Nereid (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nereid-4)

Do you have a mentor?

No, unfortunately.

Did you do a formal business plan?

No, nothing formal. I started designing while still working as a programmer and didn't take it too seriously. Then I lost my job and simply continued working as a designer.

I studied about this industry and have plans, but nothing formal.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No, I don't. 

Rhythmical Lines (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rhythmical-lines)

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes, but I'm still searching for a stable work relationship.

I don't know if I am expecting too much from a TE, but I feel that I've not found the one who can understand my patterns and correct them without actually knitting them as a test knitter does.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Well, my life is very simple: I don't have kids and work from home. And still have problems!

I'm probably very bad at this, and I cannot share any clever thought. On the contrary, I'm looking for advice!

How do you deal with criticism?

I think that criticism is growth. Even the meanest criticism is a feedback and as such it can help you understand what others want/expect from your patterns. And it is always a good occasion to have contacts with your public! 

The Prism Effect (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-prism-effect)

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Well, I'm not sure I'm there yet. I knew from the beginning that this can take time, I'm not disappointed. I love the work that I'm doing and I'm slowly but continuously growing, what else could I ask for?

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Patience, and a lot of work. Success never comes overnight and pattern writing is much more complex than many knitters think. Turning a passion into a career is not easy, sometimes it will feel like a "normal job". So my advice is to find your own personal happy routine, to bring the joy even in the dullest part of this work.  

Vanishing Point (will be published in September)

What’s next for you?

Last year I worked mainly for third party publications, and it was really satisfying and fun: I learned a lot about pattern writing and I had the possibility to stretch my creativity in many ways. Now I want to focus on self-publishing, because I have many personal ideas that I know are not suitable for magazine publishing. I'd love to participate in collective events, such as the GAL or the Happiness Make-A-Long, because they are fun! I really enjoy them as a wonderful occasion to work with other talented designers and make friends, and, finally, they work very well for me!

Reptile Skin (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/reptile-skin)

August Reboot Series - A List of Knitting Calculators

This month I'm going to be doing some re-posting of older blog posts with occasional updates. I hope to have all new interviews every Friday but many Pros take the month of August off and in past years I haven't always been able to get enough interviews back to fill all the August dates.  (As predicted I sent out a much higher number than usual of interview invitations but I don't yet have a new one to post.) 

Sometimes we just want to knit something simple and can get intimidated by the math. Have you heard of knitting calculators? Some knitters call them generators. Many wonderful people on the Internet have set these up free for you to use. These are very handy things to know about.

Here's a list of the ones I'm familiar with. If you have some great ones please share in the comments and I'll add them to the list.  

How Much Shawl Have I Knitted So Far?
http://theraineysisters.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/how-much-shawl.pdf

Hat Calculator  

http://www.earthguild.com/products/knitcroc/marypat/hatcalc.htm

Increase Calculator
http://www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/IncreaseEvenlySpace.html 

Sleeve Increase Calculator
http://www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/MagicFormulaSleeve.html

Decrease Calculator  
http://www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/EvenlySpace.html

Glove Calculator
http://www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/mitten/HKGloves.html

Random Stripes 
http://www.biscuitsandjam.com/stripe_maker.php 

Planned Pooling
http://plannedpooling.com/

Sock Calculator
http://www.violetgreen.co.uk/shop/free-sock-knitting-pattern-calculator/

Raglan Sweater Calculator 
http://www.knittingfool.com/SweaterPatterns/TopDownRaglanPullover.aspx


Yarn Required Calculator   
 http://knitable.net/YardageCalc.asp

Waist-Shaping Calculator
http://www.interweave.com/Waist-Shaping-Calculator/Curvy-Waist-Shaping.asp

Armscye calculator
http://frenchroastdesign.com/armscye/

Buttonhole Spacing Calculator
http://knitable.net/ButtonholeCalc.asp

Fair Isle Chart Maker
http://fairisledesign.com/

Knitting Time Calculator
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdg96dDXD0X9F7fGm3NIfVisyGLzNSqxp9wVJEl4N-DofQpsQ/viewform?formkey=dGw2di04am5ram1KajhmYW5kaWdZc1E6MQ

OK - I was just checking to see if you are paying attention with that one!

August Reboot Series - Problem Solving in Knitting Patterns

This month I'm going to be doing some re-posting of older blog posts. Some like this one will have updates included as when I reread I often realize I've learned something new since the original post went up.  I hope to have all new interviews every Friday but many Pros take the month of August off and in past years I haven't always been able to get enough interviews back to fill all the August dates.  (As predicted I sent out a much higher number than usual of interview invitations but I don't yet have a new one to post.) 

Don't name the problem!

I know it sounds counter intuitive, but really, don't label a problem that you are trying to solve.

I spent a lot of time helping knitters with problems when knitting from patterns when I worked in my LYS. I quickly learned not to listen to them when they told me what the problem was. Whenever I did it slowed down the process of resolution because often they were wrong! That's why they couldn't figure it out for themselves. Naming the problem stopped them from looking at other details, and that was often where the error in the work was. I had a number of situations where the knitter said the problem was in a specific section of the instructions. Often when I went back to the beginning of the pattern and checked the work I found the error earlier on. By naming the problem the knitter stopped looking in the right place so they were completely unable to determine what was really going wrong. BTW, these were accomplished, smart knitters that just focused on the wrong thing for too long and that is why they needed assistance.

An Interview with...Emma Vining

https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Purlemma/sampler-scarf

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Emma here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

The short answer to your question is “Everywhere”! I always have my phone and a notebook with me and if I see something that catches my eye, I will photograph or sketch it. This can be an interesting tile pattern on a wall or a beautiful flower. I am particularly fond of patterns made by shadows as these constantly change and always surprise you. Shadows cast by ironwork railings on a staircase or a bridge are two of the best places to see this type of pattern.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I love all types of cable pattern and I have just finished writing my first book all about this extremely versatile technique. My book will be published in early 2019 and is full of cable stitch patterns alongside plenty of suggestions to inspire a reader’s own cable designs. There are also ten patterns for knitted accessories, each one featuring a different cable technique.

https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Purlemma/sampler-scarf

Do you look at other designers’ work?

I really enjoy reading about knitting in magazines, books and online, especially browsing on Ravelry! There are so many talented designers creating a wide variety of excellent patterns at the moment. I find it extremely inspiring to see how stitch patterns can be used in so many different ways.

A great example of being inspired by another knitter's work is a recent project I have been working on for the UK Knitting and Crochet Guild (KCG). Titled “A Knitter’s Journey”, this project is part of the Guild’s 40th anniversary celebrations in 2018. The knitter of the title, Gladys Jeskins, decided to make a record of her own of stitch designs. She was aiming for 1000! Before she passed away in 1997, she had reached 951. Guild members have re-knitted a selection of the sampler stitch patterns and a small group of us have created accessory designs inspired by a single stitch pattern. My Ruby half-pi shawl pattern, inspired by Gladys’s sampler, features in the e-book of accessory patterns available to Guild members through the KCG website. Designing new patterns from Gladys’s sampler has been a fascinating experience. I have learned a great deal about my own working practice, knitted with stitch patterns I do not normally use and have been left with enormous respect for this wonderful knitter.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I always try to knit sample garments and accessories myself mainly because I very much enjoy the process of knitting. My aim is to create patterns that look great and also feel good to knit. The perfect stitch pattern for me has just the right amount of complexity to keep a knitter interested, yet also allows the knitter to relax into the rhythm of the repeat. What better way to check the rhythm than to knit the item myself?

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes, always! I consider tech editing an essential part of my design process. When I am designing a new stitch pattern for a garment or accessory, I will have knitted the stitch pattern many times before I decide on the final version. It is highly likely that I will have made several small changes to the design to help it flow and look really good. Having a tech editor double check the whole pattern is therefore absolutely essential.

http://kcguild.org.uk/news/40th-anniversary-e-book

How do you deal with criticism?

Constructive criticism is always welcome, especially during the tech editing process. Pointing out pattern mistakes constructively helps me learn and hopefully means that I will not repeat the same errors again!

What’s next for you?

I’m looking forward to all the fantastic knitting and design events coming up in London in the next few months. I’ll be volunteering at the London Design Festival at the Victoria and Albert Museum, spending time at the https://www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com/london/ at Alexandra Palace and attending the Knitting History Forum Conference at the London College of Fashion. I am also delighted to be working on new designs in gorgeous wool and alpaca yarns for the winter issues of the Knitter Magazine.

http://kcguild.org.uk/news/40th-anniversary-e-book

August Reboot Series - Errata

This month I'm going to be doing some re-posting of older blog posts. Some like this one will have updates included as when I reread I often realize I've learned something new since the original post went up.  I hope to have all new interviews every Friday but many Pros take the month of August off and in past years I haven't always been able to get enough interviews back to fill all the August dates.  (As predicted I sent out a much higher number than usual of interview invitations but I don't yet have a new one to post.) 


When I first started publishing patterns I received an email from my editor that said "The pattern itself was perfect -- no changes." You would think that I would be thrilled to get a note like that....right? Well no, I worried that maybe she missed something. Unfortunately I remember all too clearly my early days of knitting when an error in a pattern could be a cause for so much frustration that a project would be tossed aside and discarded forever. 

When I was first knitting I started a beautiful lace skirt and top pattern which had an error. Since I was a novice knitter I assumed the fault was mine and kept tearing back and re-knitting. The stitch pattern was written not charted as charts were far less common when I was first knitting. Back then I was an isolated knitter, the only other knitters I knew were related to me and none were especially advanced. I loved the design and I was determined to finish it so I persevered. I wrote the pattern out line by line comparing each one and counting out the stitches until I found one row that was missing (are you ready) one yo!

I still remember the hours I spent to find and correct this error, so you would think I would be ready to rant about pattern errors and how totally unacceptable they are. Actually what it taught me was how a tiny little error could completely mess up the pattern and since it was so difficult to find that error how very easy it is for the pattern writer to make it in the first place.

One of the criteria designers use when choosing test and sample knitters is that they need to be very literal interpreters of patterns. If they override the pattern instructions using their knitterly skills they may miss identifying problems in the pattern. One of my test knitters once asked a question about a dropped stitch pattern which lead me to check every stitch dictionary that I own. What did I discover? There appeared to be two similar but slightly different instructions that produced a different length of dropped stitch. It was critical to the result obtained and meant that I worded the pattern differently and hopefully no one else ran into that problem. 

Sometime ago I collaborated with another designer on a project. She was very experienced and told me she had learned to accept that errors slip through even when she was using more than one tech editor and multiple test knitters. I do try to remember this when an error is discovered and fortunately the digital publishing world has the added feature of being able to update patterns.

The original error in that lace pattern made me a better knitter, more independent, more thoughtful, more resourceful. However, I still don't want ANY errors in my patterns!

Let me know what you think. Do you hate a designer who has an error in their pattern? Do you swear off ever knitting another one of their designs? Or do you forgive them and understand that some errors are inevitable?