Friday, November 9, 2012

An Interview with...Larissa Brown

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shift

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Larissa here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?
I'm drawn to repetitive patterns and bright or especially tenderly soft colors all around, in everyday things. I also look at yarn a lot. I just put it on the table while I'm working on something else and look at it out of the corner of my eye. I get ideas from its texture and the way it catches light. Finally, I love old stitch dictionaries. The most groovy one in my collection is the Monarch Illustrated Guide to Knitting by Pam Dawson. **

This year, I'm especially inspired by an exciting and very personally moving project--a novel I'm writing. It takes place in the 900s in Iceland, and my research for that book--including a recent trip to Iceland--has led to a new collection of shawls and wraps that I just started publishing. ***


The collection will come out progressively over the next 12 months. As I'm writing the novel, I'm also sketching and swatching. The first shawl in the series, called From the Fields, was created after I researched cutting an acre of grass by hand with a scythe. A cabled shawl is coming up, based on one of my characters and using some Einband yarn I bought in Reykjavik.


**
http://www.amazon.com/Monarch-Illustrated-Guide-Knitting-Dawson/dp/0671187694/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1347474552&sr=1-1&keywords=monarch+illustrated+guide+to+knitting

***
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/my-viking-love-song-six-shawls-and-wraps  


How did you determine your size range?
I create mostly accessories, so the sizes are less exacting and the range is more limited than a garment designer. Wrists don't vary that much! Scarves and shawls are easily adjustable by the knitter. I encourage knitters to consider what they want and many of my patterns are designed specifically to be adjustable for any yarn and any finished size.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/meathead-hat
(c) Michael Crouser

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I love looking at other designers' work. It's inspiring and thought provoking. I am glad to be influenced by my accomplished peers, in spirit, creativity and quality of execution. I aspire to (and do think I mostly achieve) the quality of knitting, photographs and pattern design that I see around me on Pinterest, Ravelry, Craftsy, and in person when I meet with other designers. Talking in person about our work is really exciting and motivating. I love to hang out and discuss what we have going on behind the scenes. I'm fortunate to have friendships with many successful and creative designers.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I believe the more one tries to explain a simple thing, the harder it gets to understand. There is a point at which more specificity and instruction in a pattern gets more confusing.

I try to consider who is going to knit a particular design. Is it a super easy pattern but might attract complete beginners? Is it an intermediate pattern that beginners probably won't approach? There is a balance between providing a pattern that can be used by people on each end of the probable spectrum.

I define a pattern as the instructions to make a particular design. It may include instructions to make variations, but basically it's the "how-to" document for XX scarf or YY hat. The necessary skills and techniques to make that item are something best learned outside of a pattern document. For example, learning to form simple cables should be accomplished by reading, taking a class, learning from a friend, at a LYS, etc.


Whenever possible I have more than one person--sometimes dozens--test a pattern. I get a lot of feedback on whether I've given too much or not enough detail. If the pattern includes a potentially new technique, I do
not try to teach the technique in the pattern, but I will include links to online videos or articles as reference. ****


All that said, I think it's very frustrating for me (and perhaps other designers) when we receive questions for support that are actually from people who need a basic knitting class, reference book or multiplication table. In particular, many of my peers and I have noticed that free patterns create this kind of demand. "How many do I cast on if I want this to be an inch bigger? I'd like an answer today. I'm waiting." (No please or thanks, and no kidding, this was a real note for one of my very simplest patterns.)

**** Only in one of my e-books do I provide some math direction so that a knitter can use my table to create any size and design of bonnet. (That e-book is called Bonnet Love.) And in one pattern I walk through the way to make a Latvian Braid because I use an unusual method from Anna Zilboorg's books, which are somewhat rare and can be hard to find.
 


http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/my-grandmothers-knitting-family-stories-and-inspired-knits-from-top-designers
(c) Michael Crouser

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I'm a slow knitter, but fast at thinking up new ideas for patterns! So it's been crucial for me to gather knitters. I have about six people I can regularly call to make the samples seen in my photographs, and another six or more that I can beg.

Test knitting is a different thing altogether. Test knitting is not focused on creating the sample to be photographed. It helps determine if a pattern is fun and understandable by knitters. When I do a test knit, I usually introduce it as a knit-a-long on my Ravelry group. There I can get anywhere from five to 20 knitters to make their own and tell me how it goes. For my first book, Knitalong, I had 100 or more people make some of those patterns. 


Do you use a tech editor?
Related to the above question, test knitting is not the same as tech editing. A test knitter may tell me things like, This yarn is irritating to work with and doesn't show off the stitch pattern, or I don't get the idea of this shape! A technical editor will catch an error like, You note your increases take place on the RS, but they don't, they take place on the WS. They find mistakes and inconsistencies.

And yes, I do work with a tech editor unless the pattern is dead simple. Her name is Katherine Vaughan, and she's great.
 


http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/from-the-fields

Did you do a formal business plan?
No, but very recently my husband has been using SPSS (a program for statistical analysis) to analyze my sales data and I've done some research into where I want to go next.  

Do you have a mentor?
I have many people I look up to and whose standards I try to emulate. In particular, my editor Melanie Falick, who I pretty much believe to be infallible. Her sense of design and her standards have really defined how I work. From her, I've learned about how to work professionally with a designer, photographer or publisher and lived through making tough decisions about things that didn't rise to our acceptable standard or weren't right for publication. In fact, I think that because I worked with Melanie first before any other publisher or editor, I now have some very high expectations of publishers of my patterns when they appear in books and magazines.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
It is my business. I don't sell patterns anywhere else, and even my first book was about Internet knit-a-longs.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Hah! In good months, my design business pays for our groceries (which is considerable, since we really like good wine and expensive coffee.) But I don't make anywhere near the income I would need to support my family. This is a labor of love, at least at this time. It would be wonderful if I could reach a tipping point where my designs sold thousands of copies reliably. 



http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/felted-nest
(c) Michael Crouser

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting? 
Absorb everything you can and be an avid collector of images, yarns and other inspiration. Knit a lot of swatches with many different yarns, take a lot of photographs of anything that looks cool to you.

When you have sketched and swatched and designed a couple early things, then apply to magazines with your designs. Maybe try those where you can submit a proposal and don't have to complete the project on spec, to give yourself the experience of taking one idea through concept, sketching, swatching and describing it to other people on paper.


And don't  worry about copying other designers. Look long and hard at the designs of those you love. (I think of this as akin to worrying about getting bulky if you work out too much. Hah, I should be so lucky.)


Finally, don't expect to make a living at least for a good while, and make sure your plan is diverse. I think the designers who make a living at knitting do other things besides designing and writing books, such as teaching classes all over the country and developing their own yarn lines. Some have branched out beyond that, too, like Leigh Radford's beautiful line of ceramic cups. I don't think that for more than 90% of independent designers, patterns alone will be your whole career and entire business.


http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/meathead-hat  









(c) Michael Crouser

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Should you Change the Yarn or the Pattern?


I recently wrote about a garment that was in the fail category and some of the lessons I learned from that project. That got me thinking about how knitters don't give up when they should. Usually I argue from the opposite perspective that you should not give up so today I'll stand on a different soapbox.

We knit something and just keep on going even when that little niggling of a voice in our brain is saying stop, reevaluate, there is something wrong here! Sometimes we commit so strongly to a project that we insist on moving forward no matter what. We lie to ourselves that it will work out in the end and keep on knitting. At the end the result is a project that gets hidden away unused and quickly forgotten.

On the other hand UFO's often are a result of listening to the voice and putting the project aside because we know something is wrong but just don't know what or we don't want to deal with it. Ripping knitting out can seem like a failure. But it can be one that sets us up for future successes. We are a society that rejects failure but most very successful individuals view failure as part of the journey.

Here is one of my favourite quotes:
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm."
                                                          Sir Winston Churchill
 
Now back to knitting...
 
I think that failed projects can be due to a mismatch between yarn and pattern. We hesitate to change one or the other because we have invested both time and money. We try to force our materials to bend to our will instead of focusing on their very nature and searching for a match between the two. My suggestion is next time you hear the voice consider changing either the yarn or the pattern and see where that takes you. After all one of the best things about knitting is that usually you can rip back and reuse the yarn.

Monday, November 5, 2012

Fear of Finishing




At a recent Knit Night while I was showing off a cardigan I had just finished, another knitter said "Robin does not suffer from fear of finishing". I was very amused by the comment. However, there is some real truth in the discussion that followed. As a long time sewer I'm very used to doing a lot of detail work at the end of a project. Knitters frequently pick projects to avoid finishing, sometimes to the detriment of their knitting. If you learned how to knit, learning how to do the finishing is just the next step in the process. In the same way you moved on from the garter stitch scarf to socks, hats and other more complex items you can start to add finishing skills to your knowledge base. Some of the fear involved with the finishing process may be due to the simple fact that you may not know about all of the different techniques possible or how or when to use them. Many shops offer classes to assist you in learning these skills. If a shop is not an option for you I would recommend you get a good reference book. There are a number of them out there, check out this search. Once you take the time to develop these skills it means that you can tackle any project with the confidence that it will be successful.

Friday, November 2, 2012

An Interview with.....Natalie Selles

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fietsbellen-hat

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Natalie here and here on Ravelry


Where do you find inspiration?
Everywhere! I don't really have one way to start a project. Sometimes an idea just pops into my head, while other times I have to go hunting for stitch patterns. Generally I have an idea for a shape that I want to make, and move from there. I am always on the look out for interesting textures in knitting. I am often looking very carefully at people's sweaters and hats on the streetcar, puzzling out the stitch pattern. 

Some of my favourite patterns have come out of seeing something that isn't knit, and figuring out how to translate it into knitting, such as the Oh Deer! mittens, and Tour Chapeau. For Oh Deer! I was at the One of a Kind Show in Toronto and saw so many things with antlers and deer heads on them. At one point I turned to a friend and said that it was a shame there wasn't a way to put antlers on knitting. Then bam! the idea popped into my head.

For Tour Chapeau I was doing a number of bicycle based patterns. I made a list of all sorts of bicycle related accessories. Tour Chapeau took a number of tries to figure out how to get the construction to work, but it was a lot of fun!

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I love colourwork. Totally love it. There is so much you can do with it. 

How did you determine your size range?
I haven't done a lot of garments yet, but I try to do at least three sizes for the accessories I design. Luckily I tend to work with very skinny yarn, so I haven't had too much trouble working with sizing and stitch patterns! I like to give lots of options, so I am starting to make even my scarf patterns have multiple sizes. Not everyone wants a huge scarf, so I will write it up to be a big scarf, a little scarf, and two cowl sizes. 

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I think that it is impossible not to look at other people's work. For starters I work in a knitting shop, so I am surrounded by it all the time. I am very much in the early stages of building my skills, so I do look a lot at construction to try and learn from others. When I was designing a raglan sweater I looked at a lot of raglans to see what kind of construction I needed to do to get the fit I wanted. I think it is important to see what other people are doing because it helps me to push myself further and to see the trends in construction and style.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/grand-central

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
Ack! This is such a hard point for me. From a pattern writing perspective I find it really annoying to have to spell everything out in such a detailed way, it ends up taking much more time! But then I will have a student and they will be confused by a pattern and after I have explained it to them they will say "well why didn't they just say that?". The catch 22 that I think is going on is that there is this idea that if only we explain things more, then people will understand, but you will never be able to explain it just the right way to everyone. Then, to make matters worse, I have seen things over explained to the point where they don't really make sense anymore. I think it is up to designers to strike a balance between being clear and being concise, and sometimes that means less explaining. 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
It's all me! I am starting to move towards getting sample knitters though, there just isn't enough time in the day. For this reason I work with a tech editor rather than test knitters. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/oh-deer-2

Did you do a formal business plan?
I am working on one as I expand my business into new areas, but at the moment I do not. 

Do you have a mentor?
I work with a lot of really wonderful women in Toronto, so I am very lucky to have my mentors all around me. People like Stephanie Pearl-McPhee and Kate Atherley. 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
I don't have one specific business model that I have looked at, but I am in the process of looking at a combination of a number of businesses to move forward with my own. This is a little cryptic, as it is all under wraps at the moment, but there are exciting things happening in the leeleetea world. I am really excited about the things I have planned! 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I am of the new wave of knitting designers that started after the Internet. I know what the Internet has done for the industry, and how that has changed. I have an idea of what it would be without the Internet. However I can't say the Internet has an impact, as my business has always existed with the Internet. I am very grateful for it though, as the amount of knitters that I am able to reach through my blog and Ravelry (and twitter and Pinterest and and and everything) are much higher than if I was just going through shops. 

Do you use a tech editor?
I do! Kate Atherley is amazing. 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Oh dear, I'm not very balanced at all. I am terrible at working from home, so I am finding that I am really having to push myself to go out to coffee shops and things more often. Partly I get all cabin fever weird when I am home alone for too long, plus I am a pro procrastinator. I hope that I am getting better at it, but it is a pretty constant struggle. 

How do you deal with criticism?
So many things I would like to say about how it doesn't affect me, or that I don't pay attention to it. Truth is that it can be hard to take. However, if I am having difficulty with a design or construction I will ask other knitters about their opinions, and that information is always appreciated and considered. I am constantly asking my mom what she thinks of a design. She went to fashion school way back in the day, and is an amazing seamstress. 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I had to laugh at this question. I don't support myself off my patterns/designs at all. Not even close. Doesn't even really pay for groceries. I am woefully underemployed and have been since I graduated from university 3 years ago. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Go for quality right off the bat. Get a tech editor. Take really good photographs. If you are aiming for the top, start out there. It might cost more money and the profits will be slim or non-existent, but it will be worth it in the end. Take yourself seriously and so will everyone else.

Ossington (An upcoming pattern)

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Knitting Tips - The Aesthetics

I follow a few of the fashion bloggers that do regular postings of what they wear. A number of them have mentioned how a photo of themselves in their outfits allows them to see what is most flattering in a way that they don't when looking in the mirror.  I think the problem with a mirror is that we are often too close to it to properly analyze proportions in the way we can in a photo. After all, most viewers see us from much further back. 

Try taking some photographs of yourself in the garments you knit to better understand more about what flatters you so you can improve your next knitting project.  I have also read articles written  by makeup artists who mention what a big problem this can be with some of their clients. They assess their makeup with a magnifying mirror instead of from 18 inches or more away and are overly critical.

One other thing that you need to be aware of is the problem that most of us don't like to see ourselves in photos. The reason for this is that we’ve always seen ourselves as no one else has, in a mirror. This is the image we have of ourselves in our mind. It is actually a mirror image of what everybody else sees and what a camera captures. The negative reaction is said by perceptual psychologists to come from seeing the many small asymmetries that don’t match up with what our brain expects to see, we then dislike the image.  There is a short video talk on this topic here if you would like to know more. It is given by Duncan Davidson who is an author, small-business owner and software developer. He has been the principal photographer for all major TED events since 2009.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Vogue Knitting Live

I'm back from Chicago teaching for Vogue. It was a wonderful event. I had a great time and met so many awesome knitters. They gave me lots of great ideas for upcoming blog posts. One of my classes from Chicago, Gloves 101 will be running twice more in the next month. I plan to do some posts on that topic and may run a KAL in my Ravelry group as well.

Monday, October 29, 2012

Celebrity Fashion Stylists


I watch and read a lot of fashion coverage in the media. Like everyone else, I love make overs! I've been noticing something about the celebrity stylists when they do the real people makeovers. They don't always seem to do the best job. I think that there are a few reasons for this. The first is that they are so used to working with young, tall, slim body types that their skill set isn't as highly developed when faced with a more average body type that perhaps needs to camouflage a specific area.

Generally they have relationships with specific brands, designers or retail organizations so they must limit their choices to items that will support that relationship.

I often see the makeover utilizes poor fitting garments, they wrinkle or strain over certain parts of the wearers body. They occasionally show too much skin either in the form of too short skirts or too much cleavage, appropriate for a starlet but not for an office or social event. The final problem I see is the pushing of trends which don't always flatter the wearer in the best possible way.

What do you think, have you noticed any other ways they fail?