Knitted Rooms that You can Wear

You can read more about this art installation here.

An Interview with...Andi Javori

Andi wearing a one of a kind piece.

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.  

You can find Andi here and here on Ravelry. All of the patterns are available here.

Where do you find inspiration?

The answer to this is quite simple, the materials. I would often find myself seeking out yarn and craft shops at home, or abroad while on vacation (to the dismay of my husband and two sons), and perusing the shelves for unique yarns and materials. Today there is such a wonderful variety of yarns to choose from. Upon seeing and feeling the materials, most of the time my project ideas will come to me on the spot, then I would later work out design variations at home in my studio. These variations are then further influenced by my experiences, travels, and architecture. That is why you will often find my designs named after cities.

For example, my Verona Necklace kit http://javoridesigns.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=38&vmcchk=1&Itemid=38 that is presently featured in the “What’s New” section of Vogue Knitting Magazine’s 30^th anniversary issue Fall 2012. That design was inspired by my visit to Verona, Italy, and the city’s architecture and colors.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/knitting-kit---verona-necklace

What is your favorite knitting technique?

I hate to provide you with a boring answer but I really can’t say I have a favorite knitting technique. I always apply a technique that I feel is essential to the design and look I’m going for. I do like to combine yarns with different textures and colors.  I have become known for my knitted jewelry that applies the technique of knitting with beads.

How did you come to focus on hand knit accessory designs for your own business Javori Designs?

For years I knit garments and accessories that over time left me with a desire to seek alternative ways to have a little more fun with it. I started by incorporating different objects such as rings, glass beads, pendants, wire, and chain, into my projects, and that seemed to work best with knitted accessories. I then took it one step further and started experimenting with knitted jewelry. My designs drew attention, which eventually led to international collectors, and the formation of my own knitting pattern and kit company, Javori Designs. With my knitting patterns and kits, I share some of my ideas and techniques so people can create unique knitting projects in their own homes.

Could you tell us a little about your work for the Tahki Stacy Charles yarn company?

My relationship with the Tahki Stacy Charles yarn company initially began when Stacy Charles invited me to design for him.  Since then I have been designing my “specialty” for his pattern books and website, knitted accessories and jewelry. I frequently used their high quality yarns for my knitted jewelry prior to that, so it was a perfect match. Stacy and Diane Friedman demonstrate a high level of professionalism and integrity that is reflected by all of the departments and employees of the company.  It is truly a pleasure to work with them.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sofia-shawl

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I have been occasionally reading knitting publications for years and becoming a designer has not prompted me to stop. It is impossible not to look at another designer’s work, it’s everywhere. I admire and appreciate beautiful design. But I never let it influence my own work.

  
If anything, I find looking at other designers’ work hinders my design process because I do not wish to replicate something I have seen.  What I do look for are the newest trends and colors, and I find myself reading fashion publications more than knitting publications for that information. 

   

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tiffany-necklace

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I don’t have a problem with designers wishing to simplify patterns. Knitters of all skill levels should be able to have the ability to find a pattern they are comfortable with. I hear from my colleagues complaints of having to change a design to reduce the number of pages a pattern is written on. That is unfortunately the effects of economics on the freedom of design. Luckily, due to their size, I do not run into that issue often with my accessory patterns.

Did you do a formal business plan?

Yes.  I did have a general outline of the steps I was going to take, and how I was going to try to market my designs.

Do you have a mentor?

My husband, he is a very good businessman but unfortunately not a knitter.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No.

http://javoridesigns.com/

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

The Internet had a HUGE impact on my business. I have found the Internet essential for locating material sources for my designs and kits, to the ultimate sale of the products, by the retailers that carry them, and by myself on my website  http://javoridesigns.com/ and http://www.ravelry.com/designers/andi-javori .  I couldn’t imagine functioning without the Internet.

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes.  My knitting patterns and kits are sold online, and in yarn shops and online retailers around the country. My name is on it, so I sleep better being 100% sure that my patterns are correctly written.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

With great difficulty.  My studio is in my home, and my i-Pad travels with me to manage my business, therefore work is always around me.  But I have to admit I do enjoy it, otherwise I wouldn’t be involved in this business. That being said, I try to allocate specific times for work, home, and play. Having 2 sons, 15 and 12, a husband, and a demanding cat…family time is important.

How do you deal with criticism?

I actually entertain all types of opinions. When I create a design, I do like to hear honest opinions and critique.  I try to take criticism constructively, everybody is entitled to their opinion.  In the end, you will never please everybody. Therefore to be a designer you have to have a thick skin.  I am so grateful for all of the positive energy I have received from the people who have knit my patterns and kits over the years, and fortunately that has outweighed the negative.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I have had the fortunate experience of being able to support myself in the first year.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

I hate to sound cliché, but you truly have to love what you do to get anywhere in any business, and the same goes for knitwear design.  With the presence of Ravelry, Etsy, etc., anyone can post a pattern and call themselves a  “designer”, so there is a lot of competition.  But in the end, the cream rises to the top. You must be prepared to put in a lot of time and effort, and it is necessary to learn how the industry works. Persistence is key.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mia-scarf

Knitting Tips - The Aesthetics

There are a couple of cool Internet tools for playing with stripes, you can find them here and here. 


If you are afraid to wear stripes, read my earlier posting here for tips on how to make them flatter your body.

Plus Size Patterns

http://www.patternfish.com/patterns/12428

Deb Gemmell and I worked together on a collection of plus size patterns. I'm thrilled to say we have been getting some really good buzz on the patterns. Sales have been brisk and we have separated one of the patterns out as a single. (The pattern and it's link are above.)

One piece of feedback that we have been getting is that several of the models are true plus sizes and our audience appreciates that. One of my friends told me how much she loved the cover shot of the collection for this reason. This is something Deb and I talked about at the very beginning of our design process. We looked at a lot of patterns that target plus sizes and Deb noticed a detail that I had completely missed. All of the models in plus size patterns, while clearly not standard model thin, had hour glass figures. Most of my friends who are pluses carry their weight in several different figure shapes. Some are hourglasses but others are pears or apples. Deb and I measured anyone who would let us and we discovered large variations in other areas. As an example one model who has a bust measurement 10 inches larger than mine had an upper arm one inch smaller than mine. It was clear from our measurements, that the variation in shape is wider among plus sizes.


The finished bust measurement on all of the patterns runs from 44 - 61. Some of the models fall into the smaller sizes. The collection gives  many details on how to adapt for specific variations. 

Julie from Knitting at Large has started a KAL here. Both Deb and I are moderators and will be helping out whenever we can.

The Economics of Knitting - Free Patterns

Many designers publish free patterns. They see this as a way of getting their name out to the pattern buying public. At this point in my career I have no plans to release any free patterns. I get asked why I'm not doing free patterns often and we've discussed it at our Pro-knitters group frequently. The opinions of our members vary widely on this topic.

Some of the concerns of those who do not release free patterns include the undervaluing of the work of designers. They often feel that knitters need to be realistic about the actual costs involved in producing patterns which include yarn, sample knitting costs, photography and tech editing and layout. The thought is that we are educating the knitter to expect that patterns should have a minimal cost.

One of our members shared details of the graphic arts industry and how, to her way of thinking, freelancers destroyed the marketplace by undervaluing their work to such an extent that people could not make a living wage. 

Many feel that the knitter who wants free patterns may never pay to buy a pattern so perhaps they are not our target market and the effort is a wasted one.

Pattern support comes up as an issue because no one wants to have these patterns tech edited. Pattern support is a reality in this industry. Some long time traditional publishers do not have an online presence specifically because they do not want to do pattern support. Interestingly some designers see it as a major benefit because it allows them to improve their writing skills.

A member of an unrelated industry tells me that a lot of time is wasted listening to pitches for work by vendors that are completely under priced. He can't use the vendor as history has proven they either go out of business quickly or they can not maintain the low rate of the initial quotes. The price skyrockets on subsequent projects to make up for the loss on the original quote. His internal clients are constantly questioning why existing vendors are so expensive since "ABC company" quoted a much lower price?

I think that originally free patterns were distributed by yarn companies as a way of selling yarn and in that context they do make sense as the overall business is profitable. Some are designed by full time staff and many companies commission designers to create patterns for their yarn. That means the pattern is free to the customer but the designer has been compensated. 

Some bloggers issue free patterns as they see it as a thank you to their readers. Others admit that they are just bending to the pressure of the marketplace as many designers do release freebies. For these reasons, free patterns are usually super simple, small projects.  

I'm more interested in expanding our craft and I don't want to spend time producing patterns that are already out there in a similar form. My biggest concern is that I build a sustainable business model. I just can't see how free patterns play into that goal. What do you think?

Knitting Math - How to Calculate Buttonhole Spacing

The spacing of buttonholes can be done mathematically or with a buttonhole gauge that stretches to mark the placement of each hole. Gauges can be purchased where sewing supplies are sold. A gauge is more accurate than mathematical placement due to the pickup ratio of stitches to rows.

To calculate spacing on a band that is picked up and worked out from the garment mathematically, determine the total number of stitches. 

Subtract the sum of the stitches above the first buttonhole and below the last buttonhole from the total number of stitches.

Then, multiply the number of stitches to create each buttonhole and the number of buttonholes, and subtract this total from the previous sum.

What is left over is the number of stitches to be divided, to determine how many stitches go in the spaces between the buttonholes.

The number of spaces is one less, than the number of buttons.

As an example:

The button band has 100 stitches

3 stitches at top and bottom (6 stitches) = 94 stitches.

94 - [7 buttonholes times 4 stitches] (28 stitches), 94 - 28 = 66 stitches.

66 stitches / 6 spaces = 11 stitches per space.

If the amount is not even, vary the stitches by 1 or 2 in each space.

The button band has 110 stitches

3 stitches at top and bottom (6 stitches) = 104 stitches.

104 – [7 buttonholes times 3 stitches] (21 stitches), 104 - 21 = 83 stitches.

83 stitches / 6 spaces = 13.83 stitches per space.

In this example, put fourteen stitches in every space and thirteen in one space for a total of eighty-three stitches. Put the thirteen stitch space in between any of the buttonholes on the garment.

If you enjoy reading my blog, I'd really appreciate it if you would tell your knitting friends or share links to your favourite posts online with Twitter, Ravelry or Facebook. Word of mouth is really helping to grow my business as knitters respect the views of other members of our community. Thanks!

Two Years Ago......

Two years ago I wrote about an alternative to short row bust darts. You can read the original post here. I knit a sample for my classes since then so I'm posting photos to more clearly demonstrate how this method works.

It looks like this when laid flat. Notice how the edge bends out on the right side of the sample.

It looks like this when I put a small piece of fabric that I scrunched up under the section with extra stitches and rows. The edge is straightened out by filling in under the knitting to be three dimensional in the way your curves would fill in the space.