Self vs. Traditional Publishng

I get a lot of questions about why I`m not pursuing being published in a mainstream magazine. My main reason at this point is that I`m very deadline resistant. Two corporate jobs in my past had extremely tight time lines. I hope to get over this eventually but since I`m in charge here, I`m in no hurry. As for the online magazines, a designer told me that she has done better long term with self-publishing vs. online magazines. She`s not sure why but perhaps people don`t go back as much to older issues? She also feels that traditional  magazines are likely to be a different customer base than online, I'm not so sure about that one. Part of the problem with all of this is that it's just opinion. Profits are so narrow in the Knitting industry that there is not a lot of market research going on.

I recently worked on a magazine submission because I was given a very long time line for it but I discovered a few things during the process. Having an external time line changes the rhythm of the work. I'm not free to shift gears and explore new ideas as they come up in the way I normally do. I know this slows down my production but it also increases my creativity. I often work on several projects at a time as a way of "cleansing my palette". I find the off time from a project often allows my brain to work on solutions in the background and I come up with better ideas, both design related and technical solutions.

Holding my own copyright is an issue for me. The pattern I did has copyright reverting back to me in 6 months so in this case it is not a barrier.

I like collaborating with others but on the other hand some aesthetic decisions are changed to accommodate another persons vision, which may or may not improve the work. Ultimately it's just that the work is not totally true to me (maybe I'm a design diva?).

The design has to be held to a preset level of difficulty, therefore details of construction may be changed to meet that standard. Most designs can be technically executed in more than one way. Normally, I just pick the one I think is best for that particular project and then assign level of difficulty based on what I did not the other way around. Having worked with more than one tech editor I can guarantee that they don't all agree on what makes a pattern beginner, intermediate or advanced. It's a difficult target to hit at the best of times.

There is also the extra detail of conforming to their template, which may or may not be clear, as every tech editor also has different standards that don't always agree with the publication's standards.

Traditional publishing also has space as a limiting factor. That means a lot more abbreviations and the possibility that the stitch patterns may be written or charted but maybe not both. When I self publish I often use both formats. It also means less detail is given to the Knitter. Advanced Knitter's may prefer this but others may appreciate more detail.


Any thoughts?

But is it Art? Some more thoughts

I'm still thinking about the whole issue of art vs. craft and the semantics of what it all means. The original post is here. 

Several museums and schools have removed the word craft from their names because the word has a negative connotation. As an example: The California College of Arts and Crafts changed their name to California College of the Arts. As I understand it they did not change the curriculum, just their name.

This is from the American Craft Museums web site:

"The American Craft Museum today announced that it is changing its name to Museum of Arts and Design. The Museum's new name expresses the institution's mission as a contemporary museum dedicated to celebrating materials and the processes of transforming them into expressive objects - transcending the boundaries that currently separate craft, art and design. The name change also affirms the Museum's commitment to presenting the work of artists from around the world and its role as an international educational resource." 

(BTW this is one of my favourite NYC museums. I've been there many times.)




"Craft, art and design are overlapping and inextricably linked fields of creative activity that need to be appreciated as a continuum," noted Holly Hotchner, the Museum's Director. "The new name more accurately reflects the interdisciplinary and inclusive nature of our collections and programming. We are a contemporary museum about materials and creative processes, which are at the core of all the arts. We are dedicated to exploring how today's artists and designers-coming from increasingly diverse artistic backgrounds-engage and experiment with different materials and approaches to making objects."

What do you think? Once major institutions remove the word craft from their names I think it's pretty clear just how negative the connotations of the word have become.

Why the answer isn't simple and easy.

I answer a lot of knitting questions. I belong to several different knitting groups and there is a variety of skill levels at all of them. To be honest, I like answering questions as I often learn more from the process of figuring it out than the Knitter who asked it in the first place.

When I worked in my LYS, I assisted many Knitters with patterns that were giving them trouble. Once we had a customer who was so unhappy with my answer she ended up talking to all of the three other staff members who were in that day and even though we each gave her several options to solve her problem she still went away unhappy muttering to herself "that there must be a book that would explain how to do this properly". In this situation I think it was a case of the Buddhist quote: "When the student is ready, the teacher will appear” and our student wasn't yet ready. 

I was very surprised by something that happened often. A customer would come in with a question and be shocked that we could not instantaneously answer. Usually it was with regard to a specific pattern. Often the question was posed in such a way as to mislead us as to the nature of the real problem. Many Knitters were surprised when we would ask to see their work. It was a common experience when assisting Knitters that the customer thought we should resolve their problem without reading the pattern or picking up our needles to test a stitch pattern when they said it was wrong. 

We were frequently questioned as to why we couldn't just look at the knitting and see where their mistake was in the pattern. We would also get phone calls asking us to explain pattern instructions based on what the Knitter said was going wrong without the time to read the pattern or the option to examine the work. We could relate to the frustration the Knitter felt, but felt very limited in our ability to solve the problem. It made me realize than knitting is much more layered and complex that it initially appears to be.

When I read Sally Melville's post from December 23rd, (you can find it here) I was struck by how true this part is.  Sally said "I liken knitting patterns more to mathematical proofs than recipes. So imagine sticking a few lines in the middle of a mathematical proof under someone's nose and asking Can you explain this? It's no wonder that the folk in the yarn shop can't do it!"


I think Sally's analogy is the best one I've seen on this topic. So please when you are asking other Knitters for help; be patient and understand that they need to work through the problem slowly. Once they do they can answer the question and figure out if the pattern is wrong or if the Knitter is making an error in execution.

An Interview with...Glenna C.

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Genna here and here on Ravelry

Where do you find inspiration?

This is always the hardest question to answer! Often, it is the yarn itself. When I have been given a yarn to work with, or pick one out of interest, I often go through a process of swatching it out or pondering the colour or drape, and that tells me the kind of idea set I'm going to be working with. Sometimes, inspiration for the garment itself just comes out of the blue, when I'm not looking for it, and then I run off to find yarn that will work with that idea.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I love cables, as is probably evident from the number of projects I have that use cable twists of various kinds. They are such an effective way to add both texture and structure to knitted garments, and once you get the hang of doing them I think it is just as easy as garter stitch - but always seriously impressive-looking to knitters and non-knitters alike!

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

The knitting community is so vibrant, particularly online, that if I avoided looking at other designers' work, I would probably have to stop using the Internet! I like designing for what interests me, and tend to be motivated more by those interests and desires more than anything else.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

Well, I suppose I didn't know there was a controversy about it! It is definitely a hard balance to strike, as a person who writes patterns. On the one hand, I believe very strongly that we are all capable and intelligent folks who don't always need absolutely everything spelled out for us all the time. I really enjoy going back to things like Elizabeth Zimmerman's patterns, where she gives guidelines and encouragement rather than specific row-by-row instructions. Any knitting pattern is an opportunity for the knitter to become a better knitter, and that has to happen because the knitter is engaged with it.

At the same time, all of us are busy folks. I love complexity in my design and knitting, but not all the time. Sometimes I need things to be simple or simplified, and clear step-by-step instructions help out with that. And I also know that I often offer designs with a bit of complexity in them, so if I didn't write out clear instructions, I'd have a hard time offering patterns! Thankfully in the world of PDF downloads, we aren't limited by word count, which is fantastic.

At the end of the day, I think knitters should strive for the same kind of balance - look for patterns that will challenge you and stretch your capabilities, and expect that there will be some styles or design techniques that will bit of a struggle at first, but the result is that you will be a better knitter. Challenge is a good thing.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I do have a couple of test knitters that help me out, but it's likely that I'll be on the hunt for more in the next year. I knit all my designs myself, often as a first crack at it and as a partnering step to writing out the pattern and thinking through the instructions.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

It is safe to say I wouldn't have a knitting design life without the Internet. Years ago I first started reading knitting blogs and encountered knitters who were working on their own patterns and projects, and it made me think I could do the same thing. Blogging was my first entry into the knitting Internet community and is a presence I am planning to keep for a while. It is a way for me to think and write about knitting and the knitting world, and one part of that is being able to report on my designs when I complete them and make them available to the world. My patterns are almost entirely available online, through Ravelry and Patternfish, so I wouldn't have much of a design career without the Internet, that is for sure! I like that these media are available for knitters in such a user-friendly fashion.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

If I figure that out, I'll let you know!

But seriously, folks...Well, right now, I try to do a little bit of something every day. A bit of work, a bit of exercise, a bit of knitting (sometimes more than a bit), cooking and eating food I enjoy, a bit of procrastinating...And trust that things will get done. In achieving balance as a knitter and a knitting designer, I am committed to always having something on the needles that is not of my own design. I need to always be reminded that knitting is something I enjoy and something that I continue to learn from, and it helps to not always be in charge of all the decisions that go into every project I complete.

How do you deal with criticism? 
So far, at least, I have been lucky enough not to have too many complaints - or at least, not many have been directed at me! So I am hoping that is a good thing. But I try to take concerns seriously and address them one at a time. If a knitter is struggling with something in one of my patterns, I do my best to help her out and adjust the pattern for future use, if it might help. Still, none of us can please everyone all the time, and we all do the best we can.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Knitting design isn't something I'm able to do to support myself, at least not at the present time. But I am continuing to work at it and grow my design portfolio, and am hoping to expand further in the coming year or two. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Give it a try, keep going, and do what you enjoy.

Knitting Classes and Mindset

I read this book some time ago and I highly recommend it. I'm going to be teaching at the DKC Frolic soon so this topic is timely for anyone taking classes.

Carol Dweck says on her website: "In a fixed mindset, people believe their basic qualities, like their intelligence or talent, are simply fixed traits. They spend their time documenting their intelligence or talent instead of developing them. They also believe that talent alone creates success—without effort. They’re wrong. In a growth mindset, people believe that their most basic abilities can be developed through dedication and hard work—brains and talent are just the starting point. This view creates a love of learning and a resilience that is essential for great accomplishment. Virtually all great people have had these qualities."

I've realized that I fall clearly into the growth mindset. I'm always confident in my ability to learn and enjoy setting challenges for myself. I'm naturally curious and find myself playing the "What if game" whenever I'm swatching with a new yarn or stitch. 

I have also found in this past year that identifying my weaknesses has led to more growth in every area that I have pursued. I'm getting faster and better with the challenges I set myself in everything from public speaking to charting my designs and developing new ideas. At the same time I continue to search for ways to improve.

I read recently that Howard Gardner, who studies intelligence as it relates to education said that  “successful learners believe—from experience—that there is a high, if not complete, correlation between amount of sustained effort and ultimate performance.” 

In other words, practice, practice, practice! I think the difference for those that benefit from taking classes is that good learners make lots of mistakes, the same as poor learners do. However they have the ability to learn from their mistakes because they understand the advantage and don't waste time berating themselves for their failures. They just move on and do better on the next attempt.

DKC Knitter's Frolic

I'll be teaching at the Frolic again this year. Pattern Drafting Made Simple for Knitters. 

My class will be an all day event on Sunday. My focus is to give students all the skills they need to adjust existing patterns for better fit and to flatter the body. I will be covering some basic pattern drafting skills but the idea is to know enough so that you can alter a pattern, not necessarily to design from scratch. 

I'll also give you some background in understanding why patterns are written the way they are and how that knowledge will allow you to customize the fit.    

Topics include some bust and shoulder adjustments that will be new to Knitters as well as changes to length and how to correct the fit on set-in sleeves. Much of this knowledge has come to me from the years of sewing and tailoring classes in my past. 

I hope to see some of you there.

An Interview with...Anne Corcoran

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Anne here on Ravelry  and her patterns are here.

Where do you find inspiration?

My inspiration comes from poetry, nature. I like sets. For example - the 4 seasons, the signs of the Zodiac, which I am working on now. I am also part way through an exploration of light and lace.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I love knitting lace.

How did you determine your size range?

You don't really have worry about size with lace.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be  influenced by their designs?

I have never really look at the work of others. I have to have something come together from my inspiration, the stitches, and the garment shape.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I don't dumb down patterns. I knit in fine yarn, with fairly simple stitches and very little return row patterning.  I tend to like to keep things fairly simple anyway.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I have one crack test knitter who keeps me on my toes!!

Did you do a formal business plan?

No formal plan.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

The templates are out there of designers who have pattern lines. I just decided one day to focus on lace.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I could only do my business with the Internet.

Do you use a Tech Editor?

I did use a tech editor, but there were still mistakes.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I knit in the evening and on weekends.  I run Infiknit during the week and I cook and clean, shuttle the kids around and knit around these activities.

How do you deal with criticism?

I use to get really upset when there was an error in a pattern. One knitter was really very nasty about it - she is now my test knitter. I have decided that if this were meant to be, it will be, despite errors, set backs, criticism etc. I am a type C personality.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Q.A. is not self-supporting yet.  It is my retirement project.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Do it. Just don't quit your day job. Have a back up plan - i.e. plan to teach or something. Know that you will have to be a three-ring circus to generate any amount of a following. Which means doing what I see Mary Beth Temple doing on my Facebook wall - she tweets regularly, posts as often,does designer "spots" on audio & video. Travels all over the country, all the time - as does Lucy Neatby, Fiona Ellis, Cat Bordhi.

It is the rare designer that can just knit it and they will come, because they have to know where you are.  If you advertise, plan to spend about $10 - 20,000.00 per year on advertising and your design will have to be so good that people will come back again and again and again.

See another interview with Anne here, in which she works under her second identity as Carol Tomany.