Our Relationship to our Knitting Tools

A child puts on their first pair of skates, goes out to the ice, pauses and turns to their mother to say "they don't work". That's a true story from one of my friends. 

What does it mean? It means we expect the tool to do all the work. I think it's why brand new knitters in all sincerity say things like "what needle size should I use to to get this gauge" or "let me know if this swatch will block out to the correct size?"

I see questions like this on Ravelry everyday. I'm wondering if this is a result of modern technology, which does do all the work for us. Somehow it seems to me that we are forgetting about skill and technique. Perhaps people don't realize manual skills require practice for improvement and individuals vary in technique. 

The test for knowing when you could start teaching children to knit, used to be when they could tie their shoelaces, but kids don't have to learn how to that until later now because of Velcro. We used this as a user ability test recognizing the need for manual skills and the capacity for learning in stages.

I don't remember learning to knit so I can't share my own experience, what do you think?

How to be Creative, Elizabeth Gilbert's Big Magic

I just finished Elizabeth Gilbert’s Big Magic. If you are interested in the creative process it's an interesting, fun read. Elizabeth was made famous with her blockbuster memoir and later a movie Eat, Pray, Love. I heard her speak after that success here in Toronto. Her TED talks are here if you would like to listen. She is funny and engaging in person as well as in her writing.

So why do we want to be creative? Elizabeth says "A creative life is an amplified life. It’s a bigger life, a happier life, an expanded life, and a hell of a lot more interesting life." I totally agree. There is some New Age sensibility in this book, which I'm sure will be criticized by some readers. I felt it was balanced by her pragmatic approach to simply getting the work done, as well as her discussion about dealing with real failure and the fear of failure that haunts many creatives. 

Her simple joy in writing and her sense of gratitude for what being a writer has brought to her life is inspiring to any creative soul. 

Elizabeth shares that ultimately she writes for her own pleasure and I think that shows in the end result. She recommends that you please yourself by simply following your own interests and curiosity. I can do that!

An Interview with...Heather Zoppetti

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Heather here and here on Ravelry.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dahlia-cardigan

Where do you find inspiration?

I find inspiration everywhere. Maybe a color or a bit of architecture, sometimes a specific yarn, or stitch pattern; I'm always on the lookout for new ideas.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Lace was my first love. I always find myself returning to it. Even in my cables book I managed to squeeze in a whole chapter of lace.

How did you determine your size range?

For garments, I try to provide sizes between 32" and 56". These of course change due to pattern repeats or pattern size (magazines usually want only 5 sizes). For hats and accessories like socks, I try to provide at least 3 sizes.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tphpe

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I like to look around. I do this so that I don't inadvertently copy someone else. I think as designers we are all influenced by things like current fashion trends etc. When someone comes up with an idea, there's a good chance that someone else in the design world has had the same idea. It's then a matter of who publishes first. 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?

This is a hard one. I do believe that some knitters, especially beginners, need a little help. However, it's feel that it is a disservice to them to make the patterns too easy. I don't think that patterns should include extensive text and tutorials. That can be done separately. In fact, including all the extra text and "conversation" can be distracting and confusing. Sometimes just the bare instructions is the most helpful.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I like to do it all myself...but this isn't always possible. I've used about 3-4 sample knitters. These are always local people who I trust and know their knitting skill sets. I don't often use test knitters, usually I'm too far behind in my schedule for that. When I write patterns, I always have the whole pattern and all the sizes, mapped out before I cast on. In this way I'm (or my sample knitter) is the first "test".

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mormorio

Did you do a formal business plan?

Formal, no. But do I have a plan. I think for anyone who makes design more than a hobby, a plan is a must. Maybe most importantly, I have goals. These might not fall into clean 1, 3, and 5 year time lines, but goals. 

Do you have a mentor?

No, not really. However, I've known and met many inspirational women in the fiber industry.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I don't believe so; I'm just making it up as I go. 

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes. This is essential. With more eyes, more mistakes can be found. It's an important step because I want knitters to have confidence in my patterns. In addition to finding errors, my editors help me streamline my patterns, come up with better ways of explaining things, and make me a better designer.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ricardito

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

I don't. This sounds bad, but it's not. I love my work so much that it doesn't feel like work. Therefore, I end up working all the time. Sometimes I take a break and play a game on my phone, or surf the web, but ultimately, if I'm awake then I'm knitting, designing, or blogging about knitting or designing. It's a choice that I've made, and I'm happy with it, but it's not for everyone. I'm lucky to have a very understanding husband, and no children to drive around.

How do you deal with criticism?

I feel that all criticism is a chance to improve, a learning experience. Of course it always hurts, but I try to remember this funny saying, "You cannot please everyone all of the time; you are not pizza."

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I don't support myself. Honestly, all the money I make gets put back into the business (Stitch Sprouts). I'm very lucky to have a supportive husband who takes the brunt of the bill paying responsibility. Right now my focus is on growth; soon I hope to transition into profit, but not yet.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mulinello

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

You need to have realistic expectations. You can make knitting a career, but it takes a lot of hard work and a lot of time. Nothing happens overnight, especially in knitting. You should do this because you love it, not because you expect to get rich and famous.

What’s next for you?

Next I'm hoping to concentrate on making Stitch Sprouts some great pattern support. We have fabulous yarns and now we need some patterns that people will want to make. I have other books in mind too...but I think those have to wait for a bit!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penryn-2

Understanding Flat Pattern Drafting

I've been writing about the three dimensional issue of fit and the problems with patterns off and on for some time here on my blog. I recently found some fantastic images which demonstrate the disconnect for many knitters. Flat patterns are the standard in the garment making world and we rarely give the concept any intense consideration. Stop for a moment and think about this. We take a one dimensional piece of fabric, wrap it around a three dimensional body made up of many planes, curves and angles, and then we're surprised it doesn't fit well. 

Here’s what it looks like.

Image from Basic Pattern Skills for Fashion Design by Jeanne Price and Bernard Zamkoff.

This is how we make it work on a body. We need to deal with length, circumference and depth. Depth is attained with darts. This is the most misunderstood fitting concept. The body has angles and curves, so should your garments. Darts match our shape, allow for greater movement by accommodating the apexes of our bodies. The apexes are the bust, shoulder blade, abdomen, hips, and elbow. Every place there is a bump, there is an impact on the pattern and the dart allows for that change of either length or circumference.

 

Image from Basic Pattern Skills for Fashion Design by Jeanne Price and Bernard Zamkoff.

Add to these considerations the issues around so called standard sizing (which does not really exist) and it’s no wonder garment makers struggle with fit. Many fitting adjustments are tiny little shaping changes which need to be assessed with a garment on the body to see just how much fabric needs to be added or removed.

Tips and Tricks for Casting Off (Binding Off)

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-christine-redfern-cardigan

I took advantage of a tight castoff to help make the collar roll properly on the cardigan pictured above. That's not the only technique I used, but it does make a difference.

So your cast off is too tight when you don't want it to be? 

First, a little analysis as to why. Are you using an inelastic yarn? Is it your technique? Are you an especially tight knitter? Do you tension your yarn around several fingers?  If you are really tight you can try loosening on purpose by not putting any tension on the yarn and unwrapping it from around more than one finger.

Recognize that casting off moves the stitches so they lay sideways across the top of the knitting. Knit stitches are wider than they are tall. Stitch gauge and row gauge aren't the same for this reason. The ratio varies depending on the knitter, the yarn and the stitch pattern used.

The simplest solution is to cast off with a larger needle. The actual size can be determined either on your swatch or your project as long as you are willing to tear back if it's not working. I usually start 2 needle sizes up using metric sizing in full millimeters. I like this method because my stitches stay very even.

If you think it's too loose, it's a really good idea to at least steam block the edge before moving to a smaller needle.

And for another post on the dreaded band flip with more blocking tips, go here.

An Interview with...Natalie Pelykh

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Natalie here and here on Ravelry.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gossamer-for-her

Where do you find inspiration? 
Ukraine is a country wealthy with nature, gorgeous colors, flowers and variety of plants. I am surrounded by the ancient architecture of Kievan Rus. Of course, all this inspires me and is reflected in the patterns and models I create.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I love cables and seamless knitting techniques. I try to combine them in my designs and find something new and unusual in these forms.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/gossamer-set/patterns

How did you determine your size range?

When I create hats I try to accommodate all sizes - from newborn babies to the largest adult sizes. As for the baby clothes, the sizes "grow" along with the growth of my children. The older they became, the more sizes I added to my grading range, which led to the fact that now I create a design in kids' sizes, as well as in adults sizes and I include plus sizes, to fit all my patterns to every knitter.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fanciful-flower-2

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fern-field-hat

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bonvoyage

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

Yes, I do look at other designers’ work because in principle I like to look at new knitted works - new designs or new projects. I do not think that in this case I'm repeating or copying someone's design or idea. On the contrary, when I create my own models, I try to create something new every time. But, of course, studying the other designers’ projects is very useful at least to understand what colors are relevant, what techniques of knitting are interesting for me or not, etc.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?

I consider myself an advanced knitter, knitting simple patterns for me is boring and uninteresting. For me it is much more interesting to create something unique and unusual. For example, my hats are sometimes a bit complicated, in particular the crowns. They are difficult to knit for the beginners. It's more interesting for me to write a pattern so even a beginner knitter will be able to knit my design, even if she/he has not knitted anything like it before. It's not easy sometimes, the pattern includes a lot of information, but it is very interesting for me to write the pattern, every time. It's like solving puzzles. Each time I see a new project knitted by my pattern, I rejoice in the success of the knitter who made the project with my pattern.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I don't work with sample knitters; I knit all my designs myself. But I’m glad that I have a team of test knitters for my designs to whom I am grateful for the cooperation, assistance and their comments on the design. Usually I work with 10-15 test knitters for a pattern, it depends on the project.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gossamer-for-her

Did you do a formal business plan?

Yes, I do have a plan, goals and I try to meet my personal deadlines. Sometimes it is necessary to change plans and deadlines when new ideas develop, or a published pattern generates new ideas for a new pattern, which I need to create as a complement to the original. So I'm always prepared to revise my plans.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/garden-bells

Do you have a mentor?

This is probably the most difficult question for me, as there is no simple answer. At different times, various people and events gave a boost to my development as a designer and gave me a huge of  amount experience in this business. I am grateful to my destiny that in the face of my husband, I have the biggest support and assistance I could dream about, I can always count on his help. My kids are a source of invaluable inspiration, because I create my models, mainly for them. I constantly learn to create and present my designs, being based on the experience of wonderful designers and photographers. But all decisions regarding knitting I make myself.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gossamer-for-her

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I guess I do not have. I have an intuition and inner understanding of what is best for a particular situation. And I always take into account past experience and learn from it.

Do you use a tech editor?

Some time ago I had the experience of working with a knitting magazine and had the opportunity to use their TE. It was very important step for me to improve the quality of my patterns. Since English is not my native language, I sometimes work with an interpreter/editor who helps me with the English version of the patterns. A lot of thanks to her!

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hermione-dress

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Knitting is the life style for me. But…life can not consist only of a hobby or work. To get full satisfaction and be happy, you need a balance in all areas of life - family, children, health, and home. Sometimes it is not so easy to learn how to find a "middle ground" in all of this. But I'm trying! And I have a wonderful assistant - my family, my beloved children, and my beloved husband that make my life really happy.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gossamer-sweater

How do you deal with criticism?

I always have a positive attitude about constructive criticism. This helps to improve my designs. I always ask my test knitters to express any doubts they might have during the knitting, I  sometimes change the design while the test process is being completed. I am always open to comments and suggestions. Of course, this does not apply to the type of people who  don’t like anything, by definition. In these cases, I just remind myself that every person has the right to their own opinion.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I have for many years been engaged in the creation of designs and for many years did not consider it as a basic work, rather, as a hobby. But with the birth of a child I had to reorganize my life and work, first of all, to be a mom and wife, and then do the work. Knitting and design became to be my main activity. For several years I could not say that this work supported me, but now, more so than not. Although, of course, I'm not going to stop here, I have a lot of plans and ideas, a lot of new designs in the work.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Do not try to copy someone else's path. Everyone has her/his own way to find, with mistakes and lessons learned. Create something of your own which is unique - this will be your success!

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/strawberry-semifreddo

What’s next for you?

Recently I discovered a new activity for myself - the creation of a family look and I really like this style of  work! There are a lot of opportunities when you create garments that are slightly different each other, but they have general features suitable for the youngest family members as well as for adults. In the future, I have a few projects that I wish to bring to life.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fanciful-flower-snood

 

Tips and Tricks for Casting Off (Binding Off)

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-barbara-franklin-cardigan

The standard cast off is where most knitters start. It creates a chain edge which looks very similar to a crochet cast on but different to most commonly used cast on techniques . I won't cover the basics here since you can find those instructions in any knitting how to guide. 

Some knitters like to leave a long tail when they cut the yarn to secure through the last stitch to use for seaming. It does save on ends to weave in during finishing. I don't like to do that. I prefer to seam with a separate length of yarn. I like to be able to pull the seaming yarn out of my work if the seams don't line up exactly the way I want them to. A separate piece can be tugged out but an attached one takes more work to remove. I'd rather weave in more ends and be able to correct my seam if necessary. Remember there are no knitting police, choose your method accordingly.   

There is a category of casts off which incorporate decrease stitches such as knit 2 together instead of the more standard passing a stitch over a stitch method. I think the most common one here is:

Step 1 K2tog through the back loops. 
Step 2 Pass the stitch just made from the right hand needle back to the left, maintaining stitch orientation, repeat Step 1.
Step 3 Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

There are variations on this using SSK or purl 2 together (for the purl side of the work) instead of K2tog through the back loops.

Some knitters find these methods to be a little looser than the standard cast off. 

The edge of the cardigan pictured above is finished with two rows of knit and then the standard cast off done evenly on the straight sections and loosely on the curved part of the collar.

My next post on cast offs will be about what to do when your edge is too tight. Part 1 is here.

A blog reader and happy knitter of my patterns recently asked if there was anything she could do to help me. (As usual I'm astounded by the kindness of the knitting community.) The answer is yes! In our online world favoriting and queuing my patterns in Ravelry means more knitters see them and hopefully buy them.