My Favourite Quote on Swatching

This quote came from a Ravelry posting by annieone in April. I love it!

More Tips For Better Button Bands Part 4

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-anne-meredith-cardigan

There are a few more types of bands that I'd like to review. These forms are being used less frequently, however I feel that knowing as many techniques as possible allows knitters to have more choices.

Double Bands

To use stocking stitch as a double band, pick up and knit the stitches out to the desired depth, work a turning row of purl stitches and then knit either the same number of rows or one more or one less row to fold under and sew in place. It is best to determine the number of rows required on the underside, while working on the garment as the inner section can be knit in a different colour or lighter weight yarn to reduce bulk. Buttonholes need to be worked on both layers and they must line up. To work on inner curved edges, stitches need to be decreased on the outside of the band and then decreased on the inside of the band. Corners will need mitres. This could be a good option for hiding edges when working with multi-yarn projects.

Bias Bands

This type of band works like bias tape does in dressmaking. It wraps around edges to finish them and is sewn into place.It also can work to cover yarn ends. Bias bands are created by decreasing stitches on one side of the band an increasing on the other side.

Separate Bands (Join as You Knit)
Worked vertically, this type of band is joined by knitting the last stitch with a loop or stitch from the edge of the main knitting. Loops can be picked up in advance on a long circular needle or one at a time as they are required. For many knitters the better method is to use a separate strand of yarn and pickup a row of stitches in the same manner as explained in the picked up bands section. Keeping track of required ratios is easier if all of the pickups are done in advance. The ratio will correspond to the row gauge of the band stitch This band can start at the bottom edge of the knitting or be worked on stitches that were held in reserve on a holder after the bottom band was completed.

Separate Bands (Sewn On)

Work a band vertically in a non-curling stitch. Sew the band on, stretching it slightly. Consider leaving spaces in the seam to create buttonholes or work the preferred style of buttonhole in the band. The band should be steam blocked before sewing in the ends to be sure that the results are satisfactory.

Extra tip: experiment with slipping the first stitch on the edge of the garment and on the band edge that will be seamed together. 

Parts 1, 2, 3 and 5 are here.

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 5
 

An interview with...Anne Carroll Gilmour

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aotearoa-tai-huri-huri-hat

 

 

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Anne here and here on Ravelry. 
 

 

Where do you find inspiration?

 

It is everywhere I look, of course nature is a big influence and I live in stunningly beautiful surroundings but I have also been inspired by the way shadows fall, architecture, visual art, science and so much more, once I designed a series of knits that were inspired by a vintage barbed wire collection from a cowboy museum in Wyoming. If your eyes are wide open to possibility, inspiration is all around you.

 

What is your favourite knitting technique?

 

That's a toughie, I really love texture (Cables, knotwork, Gansey type knit/purl relief etc.) but I also love color, especially in classic Fair Isle style stranded knitting. Lace is a big fave too so it's hard to choose just one that tops the list..

 

How did you determine your size range?

 

That's something that varies with each design, I try to include as many sizes as the design elements allow, but for some really complex cable designs and charted lace or color work you need to work within set repeats and what reads well and will resolve without a whole lot of hassle or awkward spaces. Sometimes that dictates where sizing can stop & start and limit how wide a range you can include.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/seaside-cottages-stole

 

 

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

 

I try really hard not to be too influenced by other knitters work, to that end I work in a sort of backward fashion. When I get an idea, it usually presents itself fully formed in my head. I'll do some sketches and swatching first and only then take a look (Ravelry makes this really easy) to make certain there isn't anything too similar already out there. If there is, I'll scrap the idea and come up with something different.

 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

 

I didn't know there was such a controversy. I write some patterns that are really simple and some that are extremely complex, and others that fall somewhere in between. I always try to make it clear what skill level is necessary for any particular design. Of course there are always knitters that try something that may be a bit more advanced than what they are ready for but that's how we learn and grow, right? (Also a good reason to take a few classes before getting mad at the designer for creating something that might be a little beyond one's current skill level ;-). It happens - but only very rarely thank goodness!

 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

 

It varies for each design, I usually put out open calls for testers. I don't have what you would call 'regular' test knitters who always do this for me (I WISH!) But I have been fortunate to have really great testers who see my notices in the Wildwest Woolies group on Ravelry and they have done a fabulous job (many thanks to any of you who might see this interview!)

 

Did you do a formal business plan?

 

That's another I WISH, but I am just not that linear. My life as a designer, indeed as a human in general, has been pretty random 'seat of your pants flying' you might say.

 

Do you have a mentor?

 

Probably my biggest influence in the textile world has been a wonderful Scottish gentleman named Norman Kennedy. He was the Master Weaver/Spinner/Dyer at Colonial Williamsburg (a living history community in Virginia) in the late 60s-early 70s when I was growing up there. I hung around quietly and learned so much just watching and listening- he is an incredible knitter too. He's also a great traditional singer and story teller. It's been a real treat to have him as a life-long mentor.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/enchanting--magical-witch-hat

 

 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

 

I would answer this question the same way I answered the business plan question above- maybe you could call it the 'barely controlled chaos' business model?

 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

 

Pretty huge, it has just made everything a whole lot easier as far as getting my proposals out, getting text and graphics to testers and editors not to mention saving lots of trees! I admit to having a somewhat love/hate relationship with technology but when it's working well I am very grateful for it.

 

Do you use a tech editor?

 

Every chance I get!

 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

 

Just a sec - gotta get the door . . . er, what was the question?  Oh yeah - that, well, it's a challenge, sometimes it doesn't get maintained at all! I am very lucky to have loved ones that put up with me and a pretty flexible schedule most of the time, and technology helps a great deal here too!

 

http://www.interweavestore.com/knitting-traditions-spring-2014-group

 

 

How do you deal with criticism?

 

I try to take it with grace, fix and improve what I can (but it depends on the nature of the criticism) It's important not to take it too personally and be objective.

 

 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

 

I'll let you know . . .

 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

 

I think it's important to really get lots of skill under your belt. I was lucky because I started when I was 8 years old and have been in love with knitting ever since (that's well over 40 years ago but who's counting?) When you are truly comfortable with a wide range of techniques, that's when you can really play and let your imagination run amok. One of the hardest things is just believing in your ideas and seeing them through - then the really tough work starts when you attempt to write them down for other knitters to follow - this is where having a deep skill set is most valuable, at least in my experience. The best advice of all though, is JUST DO IT and HAVE FUN!

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tantric-puzzle-top

 

You are Smaller than You Think!

http://babydustdiaries.com/2012/02/15-tips-for-raising-kids-with-a-positive-body-image/

One of the best part of being one of the organizers of our own retreat is that we get to take each other`s classes. Typically teachers are themselves life long learners and we don't always have time at teaching events to take classes. 

Last year at YarnOver SleepOver I took Elizabeth Fallone's class:

Knit to Fit  

Has this happened to you? You find a pattern you love, yarn’s that perfect, make a swatch to gauge like a good knitter, spend hours knitting, block to perfection, then – it doesn’t fit.

With Knit to Fit, you’ll learn how to customize your favourite sweater pattern or ensure a new one fits your body the just the way you want it to. We will dissect both bottoms up and top down sweaters.

Bring tape measure, coloured pencils, calculator, and your favourite sweater or top.
Wear a T-shirt or fitted top so you can be easily measured.

Elizabeth had us pair up and have everyone's partner draw our outline around our body on large pieces of paper hug against the wall. The idea was to be able to judge our proportions more accurately.

The big surprise for me! While I do have a clear understanding about my own proportions, I am smaller than I thought.

Do you like Wool and Wine?

I've been booked to teach at a brand new retreat in a beautiful little inn in Prince Edward County. You can see a 3 minute video of Jackson's Falls Country Inn below.

This will be an intimate gathering so please book soon to reserve your spot. The retreat is being run by Lesley Snyder of the Rosehaven Yarn shop. I'll be sharing the teaching with Elizabeth McCarten The details are online here.

An Interview with...Alicia Plummer

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ease-2

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Alicia here and here on Ravelry. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodstove-season

Where do you find inspiration?
Hmm. A mix of places--typically the biggest factors are wearability, color, and flattery. It has to be casual because I live in the sticks, but clean enough for a trip to the city. It has to be superwash in most cases because I have small children. I'm a very emotional person, so colors usually remind me of feelings or even memories I've had. One pattern I'm working on now is called Briquette--it's in honor of our camp and my husband's triumph over learning how to work the charcoal grill! (no more lighter fluid flavor--yup, that happened once!)

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I'd have to say the Tubular Sewn Bind off is tops in my book. I'll do it on an entire hem. You just can't beat the clean edge. And half twist stockinette-so fun!

How did you determine your size range?
Honestly, it ranges from pattern to pattern. Some patterns are going to flatter more body styles, and I'll do a wide range. Sometimes it's the opposite.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/oaked

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I love to browse Ravelry and look at everyone's work! I think that everyone has such a clear brand in most cases. Being influenced by someone doesn't necessarily mean copying them, though. I was inspired by Bristol Ivy with her unique constructions and Stephen West for his out of the box thinking when I wrote Gale, but it still looks like my work. It's still me and not them. There's a difference between inspiration and copying!!!

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
Hmm. Well, I think that there needs to be a level of clarity to a pattern but I also think a level of intuition is helpful. As knitters grow, they gain that guidance slowly. Until then, we're here to answer questions, and so are LYSs. I jumped right in, so I remember the frustration of being stuck, but I also remember the excitement of gaining a new skill!!! Knitters are not dumb people--but sometimes too much handholding in a pattern can end up making it more tedious and confusing.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I don't have any sample knitters. I use testers because I love to see people's interpretations prior to release, as well as how a garment might drape on various bodies. My testers keep their samples, I just see their pictures and use it as an extra round of pattern proofing. The best is when it looks good on everyone--Ease, Bulky Ease, & Birchbark, I am yet to see those look bad on anyone! It gives me joy to think that people can be so happy with something I wrote in my living room!

Did you do a formal business plan?
No, I probably should though! I am so disorganized.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/downeast

Do you have a mentor?
I have a lot of people who have helped me and encouraged me along the way, and without them I'd be lost! Melissa (Schaschwary) was the first one to encourage me, as well as the January Mommies group on Ravelry. An amazing bunch of women!
As far as others in the industry, Antonio,  Julia Trice, Thea Colman, Amy Christopphers and Bristol Ivy, Elena Nodel, Monika Smirna, Isabell Kramer--they've all helped me at some point or another and to have their encouragement is mind blowing. They're all so amazing on their own!
When I worked with Pam Allen for the Scarves Etc shoot, I learned a TON. I mean a TON.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No, I should really make one! Knit, photograph, test, tech edit, format, release, typically! My brain gets new ideas fast so I try to keep up with it. Which I can't. Not enough time in the day!!! My family comes first!

Do you use a tech editor?
Yes, absolutely!

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I don't get much sleep! hahahaha...honestly. I typically work from 8-11 when the kids are in bed.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/abate

How do you deal with criticism?
This is a great question, because in the beginning it would bring me to tears. I would actually believe things that were said to me. I've had people name call me and chew me out over patterns that I spent hours on. That being said, I prayed about it and I felt like over time God has just blessed me with a bit more of a level head!!!!

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
About half a year, give or take?

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Jump right in!!! And get a good camera. If you are proud of what you make, even if it doesn't do well, then that is still a success in my eyes. It's never too late to learn something new! That, and there will be mistakes on the way. DO NOT EXPECT PERFECTION FROM YOURSELF EVERY TIME.
 (This year, I'm learning acoustic guitar!)

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/falmouth-scarf

Wanna play with colour?

If you do go here.

It's a cool site where you can choose various colour schemes, monochromatic, complements, triads etc. Play with all of the buttons and you'll learn about combining colours or see some fresh new combinations.