Do You Always use the Yarn Specified in a Pattern?

Yarn: https://www.etsy.com/shop/emilyparson          Pattern:  http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-louise-laxton-shawlette

Do you prefer patterns to specify specific yarns or just a yarn weight?

I've been getting conflicting advice on this. I think it's because everyone has different paradigms in mind when they answer the question.  Some of my advisers tell me that the exact yarn must be specified and available.

Yarn distributors know patterns sell yarn so they think patterns should be written for the yarn.

Yarn store owners want patterns that sell yarn in standard weight DK, worsted etc. so they can move stock.

Yarn companies want patterns that sell their yarn. They often develop patterns specifically planned to make substitution difficult. They may develop yarn with non standard gauges or combine two yarns in a design to make unique projects.

Indie dyers use standard weights of yarn as their base because they can't afford to do a lot of pattern support. They want patterns written for standard weights. They often use free patterns and have a project knit in their yarn as a promotional sample. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-prudence-crowley-vest

My best selling pattern (in the photo above) was done in a yarn that was discontinued the same week that I published the pattern. Since I've been designing that has happened to me several times. The last time it occurred, the yarn company discontinued the yarn three weeks after providing it to my client. The result for my business has been I am focusing on standard weight yarns because I want to sell patterns.

I choose the yarn for the photo at the top because of it's absolutely amazing colour. The irony is... the depth of colour is not truly reflected on a computer screen. I want to sell patterns so it's a standard weight, 4 ply fingering.

Yes, I do spend far too much time thinking about this kind of thing don't I?

An Interview with... Justyna Lorkowska

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

Alecia Beth

You can find Justyna here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?
I know it might sound cliché, but everywhere. Sometimes I come across a beautiful stitch pattern that stays in my mind for a long time waiting to become a garment. Sometimes it's the yarn, its color, drape - it might sit there in my stash for a year and then bam I have some knitting epiphany and I make a sweater from it in a week. Finally, and I know it will not sound very magical, I'm actually forced to create because I need a particular knit in my own closet. Most of my designs came to life because one of my kids needed a hat or a jumper or because I couldn't find anything I liked in the stores.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

At the moment I'm fascinated by short rows. This technique never ceases to amaze me. It's just wonderful that short rows allow you to shape your garment to accommodate for almost every knitter's figure. Additionally, when you start playing with them you can create really amazing shapes of knitwear. 

  

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I enjoy looking at other designers' work very much. I just love seeing how they use different colors, yarns, stitch patterns; it's truly inspirational.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

Knitting patterns I used to know before being introduced to Ravelry were a lot different. Polish knitters can improvise and are very independent, very often they don't need instructions telling you how to make every single stitch (they can even make the whole garment out of memory!), so I must say I was surprised at how detailed English patterns can be. Such patterns are very good for beginners who want or need some hand holding, but at the same time these instructions can make more experienced knitters a little lazy. This is why I like making new designs - there's no template, no stitch counts, just me, yarn and my imagination.

The Vampyre

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

At the moment I have a group of fantastic test knitters whose help is invaluable to me. Most of them have been with me since the beginning of my designing career, but I also love working with newbies as they bring a lot of fresh insight. Their number varies depending on the design. For example, when I make accessories I do not need so many testers.

Do you have a mentor?

Many people I've met since the day I put knitting needles in my hands have had a huge influence on my creations. First it was my mom who taught me the first knits and purls, then it was the whole knitting community: knitters, designers, my knitting friends - they show me if I'm doing the right thing.

  

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

Enormous. Firstly, because I learned a lot about new knitting techniques from the Internet. Knitting in Poland, the country where I live, is still connected with the stereotype of an old lady knitting socks from some thick coarse wool. Unfortunately, the Polish knitting industry is not very well developed and most knitters turn to the Internet for knowledge about new styles, techniques or even to buy yarn. At the moment my business exists thanks to the Internet but I hope that one day knitting in Poland will become as popular as in the UK or the US, with numerous workshops and festivals.

Do you use a tech editor?

I admit that when I started writing my patterns everything was more like child's play, but it has changed since that time. Now I'm trying hard to make my patterns as comprehensive as possible with a team of test knitters and recently a tech editor.

Casual Lace

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Oh, that's a hard question because I'm pretty bad at it. We have two small children so I work whenever they allow me to :-). Thankfully my husband helps me a lot, not only with the kids, but also with my work. He's the one who first discusses an idea for a design with me, chooses yarn, and then when the garment is ready he patiently takes a lot of photos. We also manage Lete's Knits website together. And when we finish our work we try to spend some quality time with our children - though I confess to having a small WIP bag with me all the time (because you never know when there's time to make one more stitch, right? :-)

How do you deal with criticism?

I believe that good and constructive criticism is needed if you wish to improve your skills. If you wish to be better and write better patterns you need to listen to others' feedback even if it's not something you'd like to hear.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

You know what they say? Where there's a will, there's a way. Knit and learn, listen to other knitters, find your own style and make it happen!

Goldilocks

Hand Knit Gloves - Motif Placement

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-sylvia-dering-infinity-scarf-and-gloves

An interesting question came up recently about glove design. I've knit many pairs of gloves for myself. I frequently work with the yarn leftover from other projects. I haven't published very many glove patterns, mainly because I hear knitters find them too fussy to knit. I do teach a class on how to knit gloves and the question that came up was about pattern placement. 

A student brought a pattern with her that had a single motif on the back of the hand. Her question was why was it not centered?  The answer is that the motif can be centered in one of two different ways. The first method centers the motif across the total number of stitches between the side of the baby finger and the side of the index finger. That total is normally 1/2 of the total number of palm stitches excluding the thumb gusset. This method seems to be the one most often used. The second method is to center by measurement. The baby finger is smaller than the others which shifts the center of the back of the hand over slightly. In my case the mid-point is just off to the outside of the tendon (baby finger side) that runs down my middle finger. Some glove designers choose to center motifs this way instead of by stitch count. I personally find this measurement method looks more correct to my eye when using a single motif but I know many knitters who would disagree with me. When the pattern used is not a single motif the centering of pattern works best across the total number of stitches. It's often difficult to assess which method has been used in the pattern photos unless there is one taken with the glove laid flat. If you would like to see and compare a lot of glove variations you can check out this search in Ravelry

If you would like to read more about knitting gloves and learn about the various tips I share with students, I have a 5 part series with links listed below:


Part 1 can be found here. 
Part 2 can be found here.  
Part 3 can be found here.  
Part 4 can be found here.   
Part 5 can be found here.  

If you enjoy reading my blog, I'd really appreciate it if you would tell your knitting friends or share links to your favourite posts online with Twitter, Ravelry or Facebook. Word of mouth is really helping to grow my business as knitters respect the views of other members of our community. Thanks!

New Pattern - The Lucilla Drake Shawl

I released a new shawl pattern on Friday. It's worked with a classic top down construction technique. It starts from a small garter stitch strip of knitting.

If you are new to this technique I have a post with more detail here.

The lace pattern in this shawl is created with stacked hearts. They end with eyelets which create a scalloped bottom edge. The entire shawl is charted. It can be made larger easily by repeating Charts 3 and 4 any number of times before completing the final chart for the border.

You can find the pattern here.

The name Lucilla Drake is a character from Agatha Christie's Sparkling Cyanide. The detective story has two versions, one a short story and the other a novel. The novel features Colonel Race as the detective while the short story uses the more well known Poirot. The novel uses the basics of the short story,  but changes a number of details as Christie rewrote her own work.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-lucilla-drake-shawl

An Interview with...Ann-Marie Jackson

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Ann-Marie here and here on Ravelry.

Reedgrass / Photo credit Ann-Marie Jackson

Where do you find inspiration?
Primarily from fashion and landscape. Knitting has a pretty rich tradition that has produced its own enduring styles, and I find them continually inspiring: Aran, Fair isle, Lopi sweaters, 50s and 60s couture, Norwegian patterning, and Bohus knitting are just the beginning. I'm very interested in comfort and layering, so cold weather and dramatic landscape "stories" (e.g. Yukon tundra, a rustic farm in autumn, or a log cabin in a wintry forest) are all rich with ideas, textures, and shapes.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I think cables are beautiful, but anything that produces texture is usually pretty satisfying to me. I'm also partial to clever cast-ons; my favourites are long-tail, provisional crochet, and 1x1 tubular cast-on. It's a tiny part of the garment, but such an important detail for both form and function!

How did you determine your size range?
When I started designing, I used the size ranges I was seeing in many publications - the 32" to 50" bust range. But I'd like to expand this range, as I've received several questions from knitters about altering my patterns for smaller and larger sizes.

Brae Cowl / Photo credit Ann-Marie Jackson

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I constantly look at other designs - I find it inspiring. You can't be completely original; every thing's been done before. But there are endless ways to combine or rework shapes, patterns, and textures to add something new to the design conversation.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I didn't know there was a controversy, but I have put some thought into the length and detail of patterns; I have yet to come to a conclusion. On the one hand, Brooklyn Tweed makes a point of writing "conversational" patterns - no abbreviations and lots of explanation. And I like knitting from these patterns very much. On the other hand, I once took a short workshop on Japanese knitting patterns, and was totally impressed by the conciseness. The schematic played a much bigger role in reading the pattern, and the knitter was left to use whatever increases, decreases, and other techniques she or he felt appropriate. I liked this because, in some ways, I don't think it's my job as a designer to teach people how to knit. But I do appreciate that some techniques must be clearly described if the knitter is to achieve the same detail or overall style in my design.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I do it all myself. I don't publish enough patterns annually to have others knit samples for me. I also sometimes work out design issues while knitting the garment myself, so I'll have to rid myself of this habit if I'm ever going to pass the sample-knitting to someone else!

Eira / Photo credit James Brittain

Did you do a formal business plan?
No. If I were going to create knitting designs and patterns full-time, or even if I were going to rely on the income from part-time design, I would definitely do a business plan.

Do you have a mentor?
No, but there are several designers and business people that have influenced me very much. Ysolda Teague, Jared Flood, and Felicia Lo are just a few.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
My business only exists on the Internet. So far, all of my patterns have been self-published on Ravelry, or in online magazines like Twist Collective and Wool People. I don't think I'd be going out on a limb to say that the vast majority of knitwear designers (at least, those without formal training in fashion or textile design) wouldn't be publishing their designs if it wasn't for the Internet.

Do you use a tech editor?
Yes. I have taken several workshops in tech editing/pattern grading, and so I'm comfortable doing it myself. But you always need a second set of eyes to find potential errors when you've spent so much time with a design.

Uji / Photo credit Carrie Bostick Hoge

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
One of the reasons I started designing knitwear was because I was fed up with the corporate world. If I was going to work overtime, I wanted it to be for me, and doing something I love! So, now I'm working for a really fantastic landscape architecture firm part-time, I'm converting the family peach orchard to organic production, and I'm designing sweaters in whatever time is left over. I'm so happy doing all three that they don't seem like work in the conventional sense, and I feel very fortunate to have these choices.

How do you deal with criticism?
Like most perfectionists, if I don't get criticism I conclude that my designs are mediocre and the editors and customers are just too nice to give it! Which is silly, I know. I welcome criticism, especially if it comes from an editor or designer that I respect and admire. Which is not to say I have a thick skin - I care very much what people think of my work, and have so far been lucky to get only constructive and well-meaning criticism.

Samara Vest / Photo credit Ann-Marie Jackson

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I think it would be a long time before I could support myself designing knitwear. Currently, I make enough to purchase yarn and make several lovely Etsy purchases per year! I've chosen to continue working in the field of landscape architecture, as well as being an organic farmer, so time is a limiting factor for me.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Know your skills, and know which ones you are and aren't willing to develop further. Photography, knitting design, knitting technique, website design, pattern layout, social media, business knowledge...you can't do it all, but you can do several of them well. As for the others, unless you're independently wealthy, you're probably going to have to find friends and family members to help you at the start.

Short Samara Vest / Photo credit Ann-Marie Jackson

Tips for Yarn Substitution

Having worked in my LYS for a short period of time I often assisted customers with yarn substitutions when the original yarn for a pattern was no longer available. In some cases the customer wanted a different yarn because of colour or fibre preferences. Occasionally they wanted to re-knit a favourite pattern but with a different look. Budget issues also were a reason for yarn substitutions, in some cases the original yarn was too expensive and in others the knitter felt they wanted a better yarn than the pattern called for and they had the resources to choose a luxury yarn. 

I've made a list here of  the tips I used when looking for an alternative yarn and the fibre and construction characteristics that you should be aware of.

Equal results:

• Choose a yarn of the same fibre, yarn construction and gauge. Hint, it's not unusual for the exact same yarn to be distributed under a variety of labels.
• Compare the weight in relationship to yardage for equal substitutions. Read here for more detail.
• Choose a yarn which has similar memory or drape characteristics if you are changing fibres.

Different Results:

• Choose a different fibre or blend.
• Choose Superwash instead of hand wash only yarns.
• Choose a hand-dye tonal instead of a solid.
• Choose a yarn with halo vs. a yarn with a hard twist. 

Fibre Characteristics:

• Wool has memory and will retain shape.
• Wool varies in it's memory based on the specific breed. Some have bounce and elasticity others are firmer and create a stiffer fabric.
• Superwash yarns have more drape, they won't felt and they have less memory.
• Alpaca is a warmer yarn, it has more drape than wool and some halo.
• Cashmere is soft, light and warm. It does not wear well.
• Angoras are fuzzy and warm. They shed and can mat where there is abrasion.
• Mohair is strong and has luster but has less memory than wool.
• Cotton hemp and linen drape well but have little memory.
• Silk and silky looking yarns have shine and drape but they lack memory.
• Nylon adds strength and durability.
• Blended yarns often mix the characteristics of each fibre, look at the percentages to assess which fibre will dominate.

Yarn Construction:

• Single ply yarns have a softer look and will felt easily.
• More plies that are tightly spun will wear better and showcase stitch patterns to their best advantage. 
• Solid colours show patterning. 
• Multi-coloured or variegated yarns such as hand dyed, heathers or tweeds obscure or soften stitch patterns. 
• Novelty yarns require simple stitch formats.

Keep in mind when you work the swatch for the substitution that small swatches are unlikely to truly represent the nature of a specific yarn over a much larger piece of knitting. Either make a larger swatch or be ready to reassess once you have a larger part of your project underway.

Social Media and Marketing

http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/aug/27/miley-cyrus-twerking-cultural-appropriation

I'm sure you are all wondering why the Miley photo is at the top of this post in a knitting blog.

Social media is a topic for all of us in the online world. It's difficult to get a handle on as so many people choose to engage in very different ways across the available platforms. An article that I recently read suggested that I need to be active on more than 7 platforms if I'm going to reach my marketing goals.I'm not sure that leaves me any time to design and knit but that's the subject of a different post.

The discussion about Miley twerking in the mainstream media was fascinating. Is this really news? Was it just a slow news day? What the heck is going on? 

I've linked at the bottom to one of The Onion's fake opinion pieces. Essentially it's all about main stream news organizations creating ad revenue by getting viewers to go to their websites and click. Then they direct you to a video or slide show to keep you on the site as long as possible. Why is that....to increase the ad revenues even more. 

Oddly one of the things I notice in the online knitting world, is people are getting very focused on the same stats. I get questions about the stats on my blog and how that relates to sales. The answer is I have no idea because I sell on Ravelry and Patternfish and there is no way for me to link those sales to followers or page views on my blog. I do know that patterns sales are continually increasing at the same time as my blog readership increases but there is no direct proof that the two are related.  

Correlation does not imply causation, yet I see an almost frantic amount of linking,liking, friending, following etc. going on across all of the platforms. When I ask questions I get the sense that this is being done with a "just in case" mentality because none of us are really sure of what the implications are and which platforms will be a deciding factor for success in the online world.


From Wikipedia:

The Onion is an American news satire organization. It is an entertainment newspaper and a website featuring satirical articles reporting on international, national, and local news. Since 2007, the organization publishes satirical news audio and video online, as the "Onion News Network". 
The Onion's articles comment on current events, both real and fictional.



http://www.theonion.com/articles/let-me-explain-why-miley-cyrus-vma-performance-was,33632/