Friday, October 12, 2012

An Interview with...Audrey Knight




Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.  Audrey has just published a new book on reversible scarves that includes 31 patterns executed in a variety of techniques. You can see all of them here.



You can find Audrey here and here on Ravelry. 

Where do you find inspiration?
My favorite inspiration comes from stitch dictionaries. I’ve been known to wake up in the morning with one or two in my bed, as I’ve fallen asleep dreaming about what to design next! Other times I may be inspired by a particular painting or photos from the fashion industry.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I divide my knitting into two categories, social knitting and solo knitting. I adore knitting with friends; while laughing and chatting I need something simple. During quiet times alone, I love the challenge of intricate cables or lace.



Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I love looking at other designers’ work. I’m in awe of so many clever designs out there. Others’ work prompts me to learn more; I always want to improve.


Could you tell us about your new book, Reversible Scarves: Curing the Wrong Side Blues?
It used to drive me crazy when I made scarves for friends and they invariably wore them with the wrong side facing out. I discovered the joy of reversible patterns, and proceeded to write the book I wish I had on my own shelf.
I wanted lots of diversity, so I include techniques from very simple knit-purl, to cables, to lace, to double knitting. Knitters who have seen my book and trunk show seem delighted when I show them scarves that look complex, but are really very easy to create. For example, I wrote the double-knitting patterns in a way that didn’t require a new technique to be learned; they use just knit, purl and slip stitches. Some of my patterns with ribs on one side and lace on the other are favorites. I wanted the book to appeal to beginning to intermediate knitters, yet also have patterns that appeal to those with more advanced skills. I also want the book to spark the creativity of knitters who want to design their own versions of the scarves. I wrote “Make It Your Own” sidebars for each chapter with hints on designing your own versions or using yarns from your stash for different effects.
I hope that people who buy my book will turn to it many times over the years. With over 30 patterns and variations, knitters should be able to find a pattern that suits everyone they’d like to knit a scarf for, including themselves!


How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
The wonderful thing about the explosive popularity of knitting is there is something for everyone. As a designer, I like to keep my target audience in mind. I wrote the patterns in my book with a bit more instruction than absolutely necessary because I want the knitting to be fun and relaxing. Some of my single patterns that are geared toward more advanced skill sets are written more concisely.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
For my book, over a dozen test knitters had their hands in swatching and/or making samples. For my single patterns, I use a core group of four or five. I never send a pattern out there without its being test knitted first. I had an instance recently where one test knitter had no problem at all with one of my patterns, yet the second one came up with excellent questions that I then used to improve the instructions’ clarity. I want to be able to improve on any ambiguous instructions so that the people who so kindly buy my patterns don’t have to waste their time.


Do you have a mentor?
I have a “mentor in life”, who encourages me and also calls me on my wrong-headedness when necessary! Her insights have helped me keep going when I’ve had doubts about my designing. In the knitting world, many people who didn’t even know me took time from busy schedules to encourage me to write my book. Myra Wood sat with me at a Stitches event one year and gave me the straight scoop on how all-consuming writing a book is. Elaine Rowley gave me a large chunk of her time at another Stitches event, encouraging to keep going after I had the basic idea for my book figured out. And Elise Duvekot let me walk with her between classes, answering questions I had about getting published. That these women were knitting goddesses in my eyes, and their generosity with time and advice meant the world to me.



What impact has the Internet had on your business?
In my case, Ravelry opened the door to the Internet. It served as a platform to sell my early patterns, and exposed me to fantastic designers and endless possibilities for learning. Online magazines have been a boon as well. I was fortunate enough to have a pattern in Knitty.com, which generated a lot of interest.

Do you use a tech editor?
Absolutely! My tech editors have always caught mistakes, even when I’m sure I’ve turned in the “perfect” pattern. They have suggested better ways to phrase things, or caught errors in my math. I owe it to anyone who sends me money for a pattern to have it tech edited to be the best it can be. I self-publish patterns as the AudKnits line, and I want knitters to have confidence that AudKnits patterns will be a pleasure to make.




How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I don’t have children, but I do have aging relatives whose care needs a lot of my attention. I’m fortunate to have an understanding husband, since when I’m not overseeing my elders’ care, I’m knitting, designing, or promoting my book. To accommodate my knitting obsession I’ve adopted the saying, “Balance is For Sissies.”

How do you deal with criticism?
Sometimes I bristle, I must admit. But I’m fortunate to have people around me whose criticism is kind and thoughtful, and whose instincts I trust. Eventually I realize they’re right.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I do not make enough income from knitting to cover the expenses of yarn, tech editing, and sample knitting. I’m fortunate to be retired and not have to rely on my knitting income. My hat is off to those who can produce enough top-notch patterns quickly enough to be able to support themselves. 





Wednesday, October 10, 2012

The Fudge Factor Part 2



Continuing on with my topic from last Wednesday. I'm going to work with specific examples. To keep things simple, I'm going to use whole numbers wherever I can. You may be dealing with fractions so you will need a calculator to be as accurate as possible.
Example 1: Converting to DK (Yarn Weight Number 3) from Worsted weight yarn (Yarn Weight Number 4). Both yarns are 100% wool with good stitch definition. The swatch shows the stitch pattern is attractive when worked in a smaller scale. DK is a lighter weight yarn so less ease is required. To achieve the same look of the original garment, when less ease is required, it means it is safe to round down, when adjusting fractional numbers.
Your Gauge DK: 22 stitches, 28 rows = 4 inches.
Original Gauge (the pattern) Worsted: 18 stitches, 24 rows = 4 inches.
Stitches 22 ÷ 18 = 1.22
Rows 28 ÷ 24 = 1.17
Example 2: Converting to Worsted weight yarn (Yarn Weight Number 4) from DK (Yarn Weight Number 3). Both yarns are 100% wool with good stitch definition. The swatch shows the stitch pattern is attractive when worked in a larger scale. Worsted is a heavier weight yarn so more ease is required. To achieve the same look of the original garment, when more ease required, it means it is safe to round up, when adjusting fractional numbers.
Your Gauge in Worsted: 18 stitches, 24 rows = 4 inches.
Original Gauge (the pattern) DK: 22 stitches, 28 rows = 4 inches.
Stitches 18 ÷ 22 = .82
Rows 24 ÷ 28 = .86
To compare to the more common way of calculating ...
To get the cast on for a 20 inch garment back, the calculation is:
DK            20 inches x 5.5 = 110 stitches
Worsted    20 inches x 4.5 = 90 stitches
Fudge Factor Method
90 stitches (worsted) x 1.22 (the fudge factor) = 109.8 stitches
110 stitches (DK) x .82 (the fudge factor) = 90.2 stitches
Continuing with Example 2, to convert the pattern, work through it section by section. Everywhere the instructions give a stitch number, multiply the number by the Fudge Factor. If the pattern instructions are to cast on 110 stitches, multiply 110 x .82 the result is 90 stitches for the cast on. The conversion can be to a higher or lower stitch number, it is simply a comparison ratio of achieved gauge to the original gauge.
Next, do the same thing with the row gauge. Divide your row gauge by the pattern row gauge to get the conversion ratio. In this example Rows 24 ÷ 28 = .86. Everywhere the pattern tells you to knit rows you multiply by the fudge factor. In many cases, the pattern will give you a measurement instead of a number so no calculations are required. The more complex the original design, the more complicated the conversion process will be.
Proportional Relationships
If you are converting a pattern with multiple elements, do consider how the changes will impact the overall design. Changes of more than one or two stitches or rows per inch will affect panel widths and the size of motifs in a significant way. If you are reproducing an intarsia or fair isle design, you must consider the changes in motif size. Each will be larger or smaller according to your conversion ratio and, the garment will look very different from the original.
Designs with a single all over stitch pattern will not be impacted. However you should review band widths and lengths for potential adjustment.
Stitch repeats
Once you have your new stitch numbers calculated they may require adjustment to match up with stitch multiples in the pattern.
Example: 
Your gauge in Worsted requires a 90 stitch cast on.
Original pattern gauge in DK required a 110 stitch cast on.
Pattern repeat is a multiple of 6, with 2 selvedge stitches. In DK 110 stitches - 2 = 108 ÷ 6 = 18
In Worsted 90 stitches - 2 = 88 ÷ 6 = 14.66.  Adjust the number to a whole repeat of:
6 x 14 = 84 add 2 selvedge stitches equals a cast on of 86 stitches
or
 6 x 15 = 90 add 2 selvedge stitches equals a cast on of 92 stitches.
Using a heavier yarn means more ease is required therefore I would recommend taking the stitch numbers up to correct for stitch multiples in this situation.


Part 3 will be posted next Wednesday. I'll discuss sleeve adjustments and how to recalculate yarn amounts.

Part 1 can be found here.http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/10/the-fudge-factor-part-1.html

Part 3 can be found here

Monday, October 8, 2012

Customizing Sweater Patterns

Glenna C. has been running a great series on her blog called "On the subject  of sweaters". It's a 6 part series that I highly recommend. 

I was particularly interested in her measurements which Glenna listed as: "I am a 5’9″ woman with a 37″ bust, 42″ hip, 16″ cross-shoulder measurement, and prefer a length of 24 ins for most fitted sweaters, and a 19-20″ sleeve. These are the key pieces of information I go in with when it comes to pattern modification."

Glenna  and I met for lunch recently and used the opportunity to get a photo of the two of us together.



Most knitters choose their size based on their bust measurement. Would you believe that we would most likely start with the same size? I am a 5’2″ woman with a 38″ bust, 36″ hip, 14″ cross-shoulder measurement, and prefer a length of 22.5 ins for most fitted sweaters, with a 16″ sleeve. 

Would you have looked at this photo and realized we would most likely start with the same size?
 

Friday, October 5, 2012

An Interview with...Alex Tinsley

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/alextinsley/brimley




Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.  


You can find Alex here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?
I usually start with a stitch or technique I want to explore, or some design element that I want to design around, and just sort of... play around with it and see what happens! 
 
What is your favourite knitting technique?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by technique, but I'll say.... continental, in the round, haha. 
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stripe-your-fancy
 
Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I actually wrote a big post about this in my "other" blog a little while ago: http://www.cafblog.com/2012/07/steal-like-artist.html
 
To sum: every artist or creative person is building off the ones before him/her. Even if you shelter yourself and try never to look at another knitting designer's work, you will still be exposed to fashion as a fact of everyday life (unless, I guess, you're in a nudist colony and avoid all media, but then I'm not sure who you're knitting for!) There's nothing wrong with being influenced by other designers, just as long as you're taking that influence, injecting your own mojo into it, and letting it grow into something new and distinctly "yours". 
 
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I'm not super familiar with this controversy, maybe because I self-publish for the most part and can say whatever I want in my patterns, haha. I try to have a little bit of faith in the competence of my customers. I don't over-explain common techniques and where there's a choice to be made, I trust them to make it- for instance, for "make 1" I will usually give them a link to a site with some increases and let them use their favorite, unless it really needs to be a particular one. 
 
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I knit all my own samples- I design as I go, so unless I was having a second sample made, using sample knitters really wouldn't work for me. I have a healthy handful of folks who enjoy testing my patterns, so when I need a tester I usually float it out there and see who's interested... I wouldn't say they were "working for me" though, at least not on an ongoing basis. 
 
Did you do a formal business plan?
I've tried writing them, just as a helpful exercise, but....no. My plan is pretty simple: put out patterns. Keep putting out patterns. At the moment I'm working on a book (link: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/alextinsley/doomsday-knits-projects-for-the-apocalypse-and-aft ) so that's a bit of break in routine. 
 
Do you have a mentor?
Not formally, though the community of designers on Ravelry and Twitter are wonderfully helpful people who have always readily given advice whenever I (or anyone else) needs it. 
 
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
I guess the business model of most designers (at least those who primarily self-publish) is pretty similar (put out patterns. Keep putting out patterns,) but I've never really looked at one person and tried to emulate their model. 
 
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
Without the Internet, my business would not exist, period. I only recently started doing paper patterns (through Deep South, my distributor). I started out selling my patterns on Etsy, moved to Ravelry when they showed up (and now Craftsy too.) If there was no Internet I'd probably be doing something else entirely. 
Not on every pattern, sometimes I just use testers if the design is very simple. I have a well-worn template and most of my patterns are one-sized so it's not always necessary. I'm starting to move towards garments for the upcoming book and those definitely will require tech editing. 
 
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
There's supposed to be a balance? Haha. Honestly I'm kind of bad at that...or at least bad at the division. I drift between work and Facebook and snack time and playing with the dogs and back again all day long. I answer work emails when I'm out at dinner and play games on my phone in the middle of editing a pattern. All of my social media identities are both personal and professional. When I need to relax, I put on a dumb TV show and knit (which, technically, counts as work!) I try to give myself the day off whenever my husband has a day off (once a week, usually) but I usually end up slipping a little work in anyway. 
 
How do you deal with criticism?
If it's constructive, I try to swallow my pride and see if what they're saying holds any water (for example, if someone's found an error in my pattern, obviously that needs to be fixed!) If they're just being mean or offering totally unhelpful criticism, I pretty much just grumble under my breath, give my computer the finger, and move on. You can't please everyone all of the time, and more often than not, someone who hates what they made from your pattern is probably more frustrated about their own knitting ability/yarn choice/the fact that they ignored the gauge completely... after all, they liked your design enough to make it in the first place, right?
 
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Ha! I'll let you know. If it weren't for my husband I'd probably be living in a rented room that costs $200 a month with a bunch of grad students, haha. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
First, get ready to work a lot for very little money. Don't quit your day job right away. If you've got anyone to support besides yourself, or you're accustomed to a certain standard of living... consider the fact that you might never be able to quit your day job. There are a few knitting rock stars out there who might make a reasonable salary, but the market is chock full of new designers (and free patterns) and it is definitely tough! 

Secondly, learn everything you can before you start. Read about the business side. Practice the knitting side. Use other people's patterns so you can get a feel for the jargon and layout, and find out what you like and don't like about the way other people write. Obtain a good camera and learn how to use it. Make your first entrance into the professional side really impressive. If your first pattern is amazing, people will take notice, and you never get a second chance to make a first impression. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kilter



Wednesday, October 3, 2012

The Fudge Factor Part 1



When I worked in my local yarn shop, we often had customers coming to us for help in a specific situation. The knitter wanted to use a pattern and work in a gauge different to the one the pattern was written for. There were various reasons for this. Sometimes the knitter wanted to use yarn in their stash of a different weight. Sometimes the yarn in the pattern was no longer available. Sometimes they loved a pattern and hated the yarn it showcased. Sometimes they just couldn't match the gauge in the suggested yarn but still wanted to use it.
Most experienced knitters can easily rework the numbers on basic patterns that include good schematics. Some just knit a different size if their gauge is slightly off the pattern gauge. They do this by calculating their stitch gauge per inch multiplied by the width measurement desired and then they choose the size closest to the measurement they need. They use the length measurements of the size they really want. However in a yarn shop we see customers bringing in vintage patterns and patterns that do not include a schematic. Occasionally we see a pattern with schematics with only bare bones measurements that don't give enough detail for conversion. Periodically we will be presented with a pattern that has a unique form of construction and no schematic at all. Other knitters run into challenges when they get to areas of shaping such as armholes, sleeve caps and necklines. Bands and other sections where the knitting has intersections of stitches and rows can also prove to be problematic.
Knitters are looking for simple advice; in a short and sweet format. My peers and I all enjoyed assisting knitters with this but we all took a cautious approach as the process to make the conversions I'll review is not difficult, but it does require careful consideration when applied to specific patterns. Details need to be considered that can't be covered in a short surface level examination of the pattern. I'd like to mention here that complex and difficult are two very different things. Complex processes can be broken down into a set of very simple actions. Very experienced knitters often perform these steps so quickly, it appears magic is in play to the novice knitter.
It is important to determine just what feature in the target pattern is calling to you. This is necessary to ensure you reproduce that feature in a manner consistent with the original. If it is the stitch pattern, a swatch in your chosen yarn will tell you if it is still as appealing in a smaller or larger format. More importantly, will the stitch pattern show in a yarn of a different colour or texture? Remember, your substitution can yield better results than the original yarn a pattern has been executed in. Yarns for patterns are chosen for a variety of reasons which include editorial considerations, availability and marketing. It is entirely possible you will choose a yarn more appropriate to the project or for your preferences.
Ease considerations are critical to successful garments so they need to be evaluated carefully. The concept of ease refers to the additional fabric included above the body measurements to allow for comfort and movement. It is the space between the garment and your body. It is also a design feature which varies according to the fashion of the current time and can change greatly according to personal preference. Ease is a ratio so the amount required increases with sizing. A large man’s garment will therefore require perhaps six inches of ease as compared to three inches in a child’s garment in the same yarn and silhouette. The weight of the fabric is crucial when determining the amount of ease required. The thicker and or stiffer the fabric, the more ease required. A soft fabric with drape will flatter with a small amount of ease while a thick knit will require a greater amount of ease to flatter the body. Garments meant to be worn on top of another require more ease for comfort.
When we knit, we create fabric.  We create this fabric stitch by stitch and row by row. We call the mathematics behind the fabric the gauge, and, as we all know, if we ignore gauge we won’t be able to produce the garment in our pattern.
There is however, a way of substituting yarns of a different gauge into a given design. It is referred to as the “conversion ratio” or “fudge factor". As always, you must start with an accurate gauge swatch.
Many knitters get stitch gauge and then are unable to match row gauge. If the fabric created is acceptable, understanding the variation can help the knitter make the necessary adjustments. It is possible to use the fudge factor for only row gauge adjustments and correct the shaping differences changes in row gauge create.
I remember how to calculate the ratio with a knitter’s mnemonic of “Y - O”. It’s a short form familiar to knitters and reinterpreted in this application as “your” gauge divided by the “original” gauge.
The basic steps to converting a pattern are:
·   Consider the impact fibre changes will have on the end result.
·   Think about ease requirements, are they impacted by the yarn substitution?
·   Find your gauge and the gauge used in the published pattern. 
·   Calculate the two conversion ratios, stitch and row. The mnemonic is Y - O, your gauge divided by the original gauge.
·   Convert the rows and stitches in the published pattern to the rows and stitches you need to knit. Round off fractional numbers.
·   Analyze stitch repeats and re balance numbers accordingly.
·   Verify the accuracy of curves and angles using knitter's graph paper.
To find the stitch conversion ratio: take your stitch gauge ÷ original stitch gauge
To find the row conversion ratio: take your row gauge ÷ original row gauge


Monday, October 1, 2012

Tips from Fashion Bloggers

Correct fit is a topic that I address frequently. Standards do shift and change over time as fashion changes. 

Angie at youlookfab (a fashion blog) has written an interesting post identifying three different types of fit. You can find it here. It is not specific to hand knits however her posts all relate to developing personal style. 

I definitely am focused on tailored fit. Years of sewing suits to wear at the office set a very clear standard for the clothing I want to create. I love the look of over-sized fit but experience has shown me that it just does not work with my body proportions. When you read the three definitions think about what is your preference and why. Once you pin that down it is much easier to choose patterns for future garment projects by always comparing them back to your preferred fit.

We can learn and apply much from these mainstream fashion bloggers. Here as a bonus link is a post about "How to Wear a Chunky Knit Sweater" from another of my favourite bloggers, Imogen of Inside Out Style