Patience and your Knitting

I regularly read Gretchen Rubin's blog. You can find her here http://www.happiness-project.com/happiness_project/ She often writes about situations where opposites are true. She quotes Niels Bohr: “There are trivial truths and great truths. The opposite of a trivial truth is plainly false. The opposite of a great truth is also true.”


"Familiarity breeds contempt" versus "absence makes the heart grow fonder" would be a good example of this type of oppositional truth.

I have recently noticed that as I get older I get both more and less patient with others. I'm completely patient with my Dad who suffers from Mixed Dementia but far less so with a divorcing colleague or friend that is behaving badly due to a falling out with a mutual friend. I've discovered that dealing with them all is equally exhausting. Yet I end up feeling virtuous after dealing with my Dad's repetitive questions and the fear that is created by his confusion. With the others I'm annoyed that I'm being drawn into their drama's and that they have a negative impact on my life that I don't want to let in.


What does all of this have to do with knitting you were about to ask??


Well it got me thinking about why I love some techniques and hate others for example Intarsia versus Fair Ilse or Mosaic stitch. I can create beautiful fabric in all three methods. It's all knitting which typically soothes me. I'm a technique junkie but once I'm working on a new design I sometimes use the techniques I already know well rather than swatching every potential technique. Yet I can happy swatch for hours learning new things if I'm not working on a specific project. I get impatient once there is a project in mind, but why? I also notice that so many Knitters hate to do their own finishing, yet they had the patience to knit for months on a project and are too impatient to spend a few hours weaving in ends and blocking so that they can enjoy the end result. Non- Knitters often cite their lack of patience as the reason that they don't knit so clearly the rest of the world sees Knitters as supremely patient.

What do you think, do you have any insights on this?

Why You Don't Like the Sweater You Just Knit

This happens to all knitters at some point. We take the time to choose a pattern, pick out a yarn in a lovely colour and start to knit. Weeks??? or perhaps months later we cast off, do the finishing and block the garment ready to wear it and proudly show off our talents.

Then we stand in front of our mirror feeling lost and hopeless because it's not the sweater of our imagination. So where did you go wrong?

Did you pick a colour of yarn totally alien to the rest of your wardrobe? It's not that unusual to see Knitters admiring beautiful yarns in colours that don't fall into the palette of what they wear or in a colour that is not flattering to them personally. The colour of the sample is always the first colour to sell out in a yarn shop so your LYS staff know that you are admiring the garment and not really thinking through how it will look on you.

Did you substitute the pattern yarn with an appropriate match of fiber and gauge? This situation is becoming more frequent as Knitters are buying patterns to stash bust the yarn they already have. Yarn substitutions are always possible, however the Knitter does need to understand that the work may not be an exact replica of the original. Sometimes the knitted item is lovely but because it is different or unexpected from the original we are not happy with the end result.

Did you choose a pattern that flatters your body shape. Just because the garment looks great on the model who is a 34 bust and 6" taller than normal women doesn't mean it will look good on everyone. Think about the most flattering items in your wardrobe is this pattern anything like other things you wear?

Did you knit an item appropriate to your personal style? Are you a twin set girl and the pattern is an Asian inspired asymmetrical style? If it is think twice before casting on or consider modifying to be closer to your personal style.

Did you knit an item appropriate to your personal lifestyle? Did you choose an over sized sweater suitable to be worn with jeans and hiking boots for long walks in the country on cool fall days but you live in a city and socialize with serious fashionista's who wear sharp tailored clothing?

Did you understand the way the garment fit? Sometimes the photo's do lie! The stylist pinned the garment at the back so you think there is waist shaping or negative ease and in reality the garment is one big box in shape. Carefully review the schematic and the instructions to make sure you are knitting what you think you are.

An interview with...Kathy Zimmerman

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Kathy here http://www.kathys-kreations.com/ and on Ravelry here http://www.ravelry.com/groups/kathy-zimmerman-group , here http://www.ravelry.com/groups/we-love-kathys and here http://www.ravelry.com/groups/saffron-cables

Where do you find inspiration?
My favorite vacation spot is Cape May, NJ. The combination of the sand, sun, sea air and surf re-energizes me.I love to swatch while relaxing at the beach or on the deck. Some of my best ideas happen there -- perhaps it is the ambience of the seashore, the fact that I'm more relaxed or that I have time to finesse ideas. The architecture of the Victorian houses and gardens provide inspiration for creating original stitch pattern combinations (textures, ribs & cables). I also love pattern stitch dictionaries with charts, taking components and re-configuring them. Try turning charts upside down for a new way of looking at stitches!

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I love to do cables, ribs, textures, and lace, usually working with a single color, sometimes a second color as an accent or edging. My favorite colorwork technique is slip stitch.

How did you determine your size range?
As a yarn shop owner assisting knitters on a daily basis, it is clear that knitters come in all shapes & sizes. Each of us has a challenge of some sort with fit. I try to provide a wide range of sizes that can easily be adapted for length, generally 36" finished chest for a small frame to 52" - 56" for larger frames. The sizes are usually in 4" increments (36" - 40" - 44" , etc.), but that is determined by the pattern stitch and gauge. If the pattern repeat requires a large multiple of stitches, then less sizes are possible. I try to have extra "filler" space at the sides (reverse stockinette, seed, texture pattern with a small repeat multiple)to accommodate possibilities for a variety of sizes.

Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I prefer to "do my own thing" and be as original as I possible can be. I tend to prefer classic, timeless styles rather than trendy as I find that my shop customers prefer this, and this is what I seem to do best. Sometimes, something in ready to wear in a magazine will catch my eye and, although that is a starting point to spark an idea, the resulting concept usually winds up quite different from the original inspiration piece. When doing freelance work, the editor generally provides a theme or general idea of what they are looking for in a particular magazine issue or pattern collection.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I try to write patterns as clearly as possible. Most of my designs that are accepted for publications are intermediate level and beyond. Any "dumbing down" is usually done by the tech editor. My personal opinion is that knitters should be challenged to learn something new with each project, and "stretch" by skill-building. Clear directions with good illustrations may help the knitter's confidence level while "keeping it simple".

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I am blessed to have two sample knitters plus a couple of "shop gals" who help out periodically. There is no way I can do everything myself and I appreciate their support. They make me "look good" and provide an invaluable service in test knitting for accuracy.

Did you do a formal business plan?
I wish I could say yes, but I'm very busy. I do have a schedule and notes of what needs done handwritten on a large legal pad and this old-fashioned way works best for me.

Do you have a mentor?
Three, in fact. I learned about traditional fisherman knit cables from classes with Alice Starmore; about pattern presentation by test knitting for Michelle Rose Orne; and Kristin Nicholas guided me on my freelance designing career by introducing my work to major knitting editors and to the knitting public through Classic Elite Yarn collections.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Not in the fashion field. My husband and father-in-law were most helpful to me in building my yarn shop business, which paved the way for my design career.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
The Internet has expanded communication throughout the knitting world. I have two "Kathy Zimmerman" groups on Ravelry -- one for my yarn shop "We Love Kathy's" and one for my designs, the "Kathy Zimmerman group". There are several "knit alongs" for my projects. Many of my designs from back issues of Interweave Knits and Interweave Press publications are now available from their on line stores, which helps to perpetuate popular designs, making them available to new knitters. I would say that the Internet had broadened the horizon.

Do you use a Tech Editor?
Not directly. My knitters test knit model garments, and check the pattern along the way. I provide copies of my worksheets to magazines and yarn companies along with my projects, for tech editing by their respective editors.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
It becomes increasingly difficult, as deadlines frequently tend to "clump" around trade show dates and new yarn availability.I make time for an early summer and late fall vacation with my husband and pet Siamese cat, usually at the beach. Most of my friends are knitters, and my relaxation and socializing involves meeting informally with them to knit.

How do you deal with criticism?
I think anyone who truly cares about their work is sensitive to criticism. It depends on whether the criticism is knitting-related or personal. If it is knitting-related and the criticism involves a problem with a pattern or an error, then I do my best to correct the problem on an individual basis. If the criticism becomes personal, mean-spirited, or hurtful, dealing with it becomes more challenging. You can only continue to do what you do best. If possible, concentrate on turning the negative into something positive. There are some people that will always be hard to please.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I've been designing since 1986, owned a yarn shop since 1980. It takes designing commissions & royalties, yarn shop income, and teaching workshops (travel involved 3 - 4 times per year) to be able to support myself. It took about 10 years to start making a profit.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
My best advice is the old adage: "Don't quit your day job". Have another source of income to rely on, as design opportunities can be sporadic. Also, learn your craft well. I began by knitting model garments for established designers, developing skills just as I did when I began to knit (one skill at a time). This industry is all about nurturing relationships. Editors and design co-coordinators frequently change jobs from company to company -- they remember those who can make deadlines, are meticulous about the presentation of their work, and have attention to detail. It's

good to have friends.

What If ?

I have more idea's for knitting than I can get down on paper or on to my needles. When I teach creativity in my design classes I work with students on techniques to generate ideas.



These are the two most important words for stimulating creativity.


What if ?

Take an existing garment and ask these questions.


What if I made it longer?

What if I make it a different colour?

What if I used a hand painted yarn?

What if I change the neckline?

What if I use a different yarn than the pattern called for?

What if I changed the silhouette?

What if.......Just keep going and by the time you are done you will have a totally different garment design to knit.

What not to Knit

This falls under the category of I have to share.

http://whatnottoknit.wordpress.com/2006/08/30/hairy-mohair-catsuit/

Take a look at this blog for many more examples of What not to Knit! and a few other items that are just as amusing.

http://whatnottoknit.wordpress.com/

An Interview with...Candace Eisner Strick

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.




You can find Candace at
http://www.strickwear.com/index.shtml



Where do you find inspiration?

I usually find inspiration right inside my own head. Although of course the ideas probably do come from something I've seen somewhere. I like to look through the ready-to-wear clothes catalogs, and sometimes I find a little something that I would like to incorporate into one of my designs.



What is your favourite knitting technique?



I don' really have a favorite. When I'm knitting cables I think I could happily knit them for the rest of my life; when I'm knitting Fair Isle I think the same thing, and the list goes on and on. For me to be happy, I have to knit a variety of techniques.



How did you determine your size range?



The garment dictates to me what size range it will be in. I usually knit a small to fit myself, and then decide from there how many other sizes I will offer.



Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?



I do look at other designers, and usually what I see is how THEY have been influenced by someone else. It's much the same in the musical world; Mozart was influenced by Haydn, Brahms by Beethoven, Bernstein by Copeland. It's not that they were purposely trying to imitate anyone; this stuff just happens.



How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?


I don't think of it as dumbing down. A good pattern writer should be able to write a difficult technique in such a way that it is understandable. I publish my own patterns, so I have carte blanche to take as much paper and ink as I feel is necessary in order to write a pattern that can be understood by everyone.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

Most of it I do by myself. Once in awhile I use someone to knit a design I've already knit myself, just to make sure everything is worded correctly, or I ask them to knit it in another size.

Did you do a formal business plan?

Do you mean I set out each year to sell x number of patterns? If this is what you mean, no. I do what I am inspired to do. If it works, fine. If it doesn't, then it's back to the drawing board.

Do you have a mentor?

No.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I have an Internet site for my retailers to buy my yarn/patterns for their stores. It works great, as I don't have to take phone calls all day. It also allows customers of theirs to go to my website and see what they would like the shop to order for them.

Do you use a Tech Editor?

I don't have any one person I use all the time. Some of my test knitters I could call tech editors.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

It's very hard. I tend to work 24/7, even when I'm away. In this kind of labor intensive business, if one doesn't work 24/7, very little gets done.

How do you deal with criticism?

Like most people, I don't like ignorant criticism. If it's an intelligent critique, I welcome it. For instance, someone wrote a review of my last book and said something very stupid about the color of the yarn that I used in the sweater on the cover. This is just plain criticism that has no point; it's her own personal opinion. For everyone negative comment she makes about a color, there are probably 100 other people out there who LIKE the color.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I really doubt that if it was totally up to me to support myself right now in the lifestyle I am used, I would not be successful. Right now it seems like most of the profit I make goes right back into the business.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

It's not as easy and romantic as you think. I always talk to people who think I have the most wonderfully romantic job in the world, that I get to travel all over, see so many things, etc. Yes, part of that is true, but they don't see the other side of it, getting up at 4 AM to catch a 6 AM flight across country, dragging my 100 pounds of luggage behind me with a pack on my back weighing 50 pounds. They don't see me "sleeping" in O'Hare airport because of a cancelled flight, then having to teach 6 hours the next morning at 8:30AM. They don't see the missed meals, the noisy hotel rooms, the lost luggage, the sometimes challenging students, etc. They don't see the $10,000+ health insurance premiums I have to pay because I am self-employed, nor do they see the retirement contributions I have to carefully set aside, because no one is giving me a pension when I retire. There are downsides, of course, but the positive parts of it make it all worth while. I will never make money doing it, but success is not determined by how much money one makes. Success is determined by how much you want to get out of bed in the morning and get going with your work. I never dread getting up and going to work!!!Would I trade it for a 9-5 desk job? No way!

An Interview with...Jil Eaton

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

This week we talk to Jil Eaton. You can find her here http://www.minnowknits.com/index3.html & here http://jileaton.blogspot.com/

How did you determine your size range?

One thing that annoyed me greatly with existing patterns as I was knitting for my baby son was that the neck and arm openings were always stingy. It’s tough enough to dress a squirming toddler without having to wrestle with a sweater. So I designed my own template, with generous neck and sleeve openings in easily knit silhouettes. I also realized that kids grow at an alarming rate, so my sizing is much larger than usually found…by the time the garment is knit the baby will have grown!

Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I tend to keep to myself, just to keep my work fresh and to stick to my own design principals. I do look at fashion, though…I subscribe to Vogue and Elle and Bazaar and French Vogue and Vogue Bambini.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

That’s not something I’m aware of. I encourage my student to have various projects going, some for easy knitting and some for more challenging techniques. I’m just finishing my 1oth book, Jil Eaton’s Knitting School, and I included a chapter called Graduate School!

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I have 4 really fabulous knitters, and 6 others I use for various designs, strewn from Maine to South Carolina.

Did you do a formal business plan?

I did do a formal business plan. There is an organization here called Coastal Enterprises that is a non-profit helping small businesses. They were great, and gave me my start-up loan. There is a wonderful book called Growing a Business by Paul Hawkin of Smith & Hawkin. It’s a great read for anyone thinking about going into business, and has a clear chapter on writing a business plan. I think a business plan is essential to business success.

Do you have a mentor? Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No. And I did not realize that most patterns are sold by yarn companies, and are sold almost at cost, as they make their money on yarns. I’ve done very well in spite of that fact, but last year I introduced my own yarn line, Jil Eaton MinnowMerino. The yarn is 100% Merino, is superwash, and has a micron count one point away from cashmere. Next January I am introducing a beautiful 100% superfine Italian cotton line, Jil Eaton CottonTail. I should have done this years ago!

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I’m not sure directly, as I am a wholesaler and my website is only informational. But we all know what a fabulous resource the web is. I now have a blog, also – jijleaton.blogspot.com – very much fun. I’ve also just begun selling some out of print patterns in my shop on Ravelry.com, so it will be interesting to see how that unfolds.

Do you use a Tech Editor?

Absolutely! She’s worth her weight in gold! I do drawings and swatches that include any design details, and she writes the prototype pattern for the model for photography. After the shoot we adjust things and she sizes the pattern for printing.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

I now have my studio in a wing in my house, and that has been a wonderful change. The commute is great, and I can keep everything going easily. I think I get more done in a shorter time. This summer I was working on my latest book, which was on a very tight schedule, and were shooting against season as well…it rained 28 straight days in June and July, and then the sun came out and it was 90 with 90% humidity – and there I was with everyone in sweaters! It was tough, and my husband almost revolted. But usually it’s a perfect balance.

How do you deal with criticism?

I haven’t had much negative criticism, and when I do usually it’s from a knitter who is furious about something in a pattern. It usually turns out that it’s a question of not understanding the instructions. I encourage everyone to read the pattern completely through just as you would a recipe; that makes a great difference.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

The conventional wisdom is that it takes 3 to 5 years to become profitable, and I was able to take a salary in 3. But there’s not great wealth in the knitting industry…

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

One way to begin is to submit designs to the knitting magazines. You will be paid a little, usually $300 to $500, and it gives you a taste of what it takes to be a designer. And research the field, learn who’s out there and what’s available, and see if you have a special place or talent.