Part 3 of a series explaining how to convert gauge in knitting patterns.
The adjustment of the
sleeve increases and decreases need to be carefully reviewed as the rounding
off of fractional numbers in the original source pattern can lead to some odd
shaping. Patterns are written to be easily interpreted across multiple sizes,
in ways not necessarily consistent when you work with only a single size. When
doing the calculations for the decreases of an underarm or a neckline, check
your results by validating your numbers on both the individual decrease steps,
as well as the sum of the decreases added together. Adjust the decreases
accordingly. Sleeve increases can be more easily and accurately calculated
using knitters’ graph paper. Knitters’ graph paper accurately reflects stitch
and row gauges as rectangles rather than squares in the manner of regular graph
paper. A more accurate angle is calculated using this paper, even if the
decreases are not evenly spaced, as they are when calculated mathematically.
Graphing also offers the option of creating a contoured sleeve shape which more
closely aligns with arm shape as opposed to the often used simple straight
angle. Round any fractional numbers off to the nearest whole number. End the
increases at minimum an inch before the rows are completed.
To determine the cast on,
multiply the cuff measurement by the stitch gauge.
Example: 9 inches x 4.5
stitches per inch = 40.5 stitches.
Adjust this number if a
stitch pattern has to be taken into consideration and if adding selvage
stitches for seaming.
On a 6 stitch pattern
repeat with 2 seaming stitches,
6 stitches x 6 repeats = 36
+ 2 selvage stitches = 38.
36 stitches ÷ by gauge = 8
inches
6 stitches x 7 repeats =
42 + 2 selvage stitches = 44.
42 stitches ÷ by gauge =
9.3 inches
Choose the stitch number
best for the project.
Calculate the wider top
part of the sleeve. 15 inches x 4.5 stitches = 67.5 stitches.
This number should match
the first as being either odd or even. In this case the closest even number is
68. The numbers should match, as all increases will be done in pairs.
Using the desired sleeve
length measurement, multiply the length by row gauge.
Example: 16 inches x 6
rows = 96.
(Don’t forget to adjust the measurement if there is a band
to take into consideration).
The number of stitches to
increase is the difference between the top numbers and the bottom: 68 – 38 =
30. Divide the number in half since we will be making an increase at each end
of the needle.
The result means we need
to increase 15 times.
On the graph paper, draw in a short straight section at the
top where no increases will be worked. Draw in the diagonal line and mark in
the 15 stair steps increases. Remember the increases are normally worked on
right sides only so work in two row increments.
If the garment being converting has picked up bands, you
will be able to fudge factor the stitch counts provided.
If you made length adjustments, it is better to use stitch
pick up rates. The stitch pickup rate is a stitch for a stitch on horizontals;
three stitches for every four rows on vertical edges; one stitch for every cast
off step on curves and diagonals. Some diagonals advise a pickup for every row
depending on the angle. The closer the angle moves to the horizontal the higher
the number of stitches required.
These ratios assume a standard stitch to row gauge ratio
and are approximate. Often knitters work towards stitch gauge and completely
ignore row gauge while swatching. This can lead to abnormal ratios and will
impact the band results. It is for this reason some references quote the ratio
as five stitches for every seven rows or two stitches for every three rows.
Some change the ratio according to the stitch gauge and use the two to three
ratio for gauges less than four stitches per inch. The ratios are based on
stocking stitch. For garter stitch the ratio is one pickup for every ridge (two
rows). On rare occasions, a pattern might change the ratio as the band pickups
cross over a different main body stitch pattern.
Yarn requirements can
be recalculated by comparing your gauge to the original gauge. There are three
error factors with this calculation. The first is created by the individual
knitter. Since the knitter is unable to swatch with the original yarn there is
no way to know if the stitch and row gauge ratio would have matched the gauge
of the original yarn. The second error factor comes from the standard industry
practice of increasing yarn amounts by 10 to 20% to account for row gauge
differences. The third error factor is caused by the yardage being calculated
to match the numbers for the skein or ball yardage of the original yarn.
Designers always round up in this situation. Use a similar existing pattern for
the yarn substitute or a generic yardage chart whenever possible as a
comparative verification.
Example 1: Converting
to DK (Yarn Weight Number 3) from Worsted weight yarn (Yarn Weight Number 4)
Your
Gauge DK: 22 stitches, 28 rows = 4 inches
or
5.5 stitches, 7 rows = 1 square inch
5.5
x 7 = 38.5 stitches/square inch
Original
Gauge (the pattern) Worsted: 18 stitches, 24 rows = 4 inches.
or
4.5 stitches, 6 rows = 1 square inch
4.5
x 6 = 27 stitches/square inch
Fudge
Factor
38.5
÷ 27 = 1.42
Your
yardage is the unknown number; apply the fudge factor.
The
pattern calls for 1600 yards
1600
yards x 1.42 = 2272 yards
Example
2: Converting to Worsted weight yarn (Yarn Weight Number 4) from DK (Yarn
Weight Number 3).
Your
Gauge in Worsted: 18 stitches, 24 rows = 4 inches.
or
4.5 stitches, 6 rows = 1 square inch
4.5
x 6 = 27 stitches/square inch
Original
Gauge (the pattern) DK: 22 stitches, 28 rows = 4 inches.
or
5.5 stitches, 7 rows = 1 square inch
5.5
x 7 = 38.5 stitches/square inch
Fudge
Factor
27
÷ 38.5 = .70
Your
yardage is the unknown number; apply the fudge factor.
The
pattern calls for 1950 yards
1950
yards x .70 = 1365 yards
I would recommend you photocopy your
pattern, highlight all the numbers pertinent to your size then go through
applying your conversion ratio to each number.
Use the schematic if
your pattern has one, as a check for each of your numbers, by multiplying your
gauge by the measurements provided.
To be sure the garment will fit the way
you envision it, if possible, measure a similar sweater which fits well and compare the
measurements to those you are about to knit. The amount of ease (the difference
between your measurements and the garments measurements) is a very personal
choice. There is no guarantee the original pattern included the amount of ease you
would have been happy with.
It
is often best to stay within the same fiber type when choosing a different
yarn. The properties of, for example, cotton versus wool vary greatly, so look
carefully at your chosen design when substituting. A heavy cabled garment may
work well in wool but is far too heavy in cotton. A straightforward stocking
stitch design will usually work in both fibers. Some stitches easily produced
in a wool with good elasticity may be difficult to work in inelastic linen or
hemp. Some fibers like silk or rayon have drape and will grow in length.
Experience is the best teacher in these cases.
Part 1 can be found here.
Part 1 can be found here.
Part 2 is here.
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