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| “Meringue”, top-down yoke pullover in allover lace (unpublished) |
Once
a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights
on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed
that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly
different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting
world.
You can find Nathalie here and here on Ravelry.
Where do you find inspiration?
Frankly,
I am not the brightest penny in the jar when it comes to creativity,
where by “creativity” I mean an ability to generate fresh ideas. But I
can look at the majority of knitted stuff and describe how it’s made in
several minutes. (I can do this even to a non-knitted stuff, too!) And
then I convert that description into a sock form :)
Another
source of inspiration I appreciate is allegedly “stupid” questions
asked by allegedly less experienced knitters who apparently don’t know
as much “don’t”s as more experienced of us have faced already. In fact
that leaves less experienced knitters unsatisfied about some solid
knitting axioms the more experienced ones just don’t question anymore.
Like, stockinette curls, left-leaning decrease jags, last (or first)
stitch of a wide ribbing or a cable is always loose, etc. I see such
questions as an opportunity to maybe change something, to the good of
the whole knitting community. At least, to try.
Oftentimes
I browse through the stitch pattern dictionaries for a particular
stitch, and then something unrelated catches my attention and I mark the
page to return to it later. In some cases I have to adjust said stitch
pattern to my knitting manner (I knit Continental Combined, so, say,
massive purling through the back loop on WS isn’t an option), and this
may present interesting challenges.
I
also sometimes get inspired by music (both songs and instrumentals) and
literature, and I’d want to say that yarn whispers to me as well, but
the truth is the squishy stuff only knows two words: “BUY ME!” ;) I try
to listen to it, though, anyway, and if it doesn’t want to be a certain
project, it’s better not to force it.
What is your favourite knitting technique?
Not
sure it qualifies as a technique, but I am really passionate about
calculating set-in sleeves (based on Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
percentages). I also am very fond of integrating shaping with patterning
so one grows out of the other naturally emphasizing the overall effect.
And I think I will always admire the logic behind traditional Orenburg
lace.
How did you determine your size range?
So
far the majority of my patterns have grown out of personal projects
tailored to specific individuals, so they come one-sized and are hardly
customizable, because usually my designing intent is to get something
unique for a person I thought about in the process rather than something
universal any knitter could reproduce. I mean, I feel flattered every
time someone chooses my patterns, but most of them are designed so you
either make them as written or don’t make at all.
Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I’ll
tell you a true story. Once upon a time in 2008 I had an idea of making
socks with diamond patterning in different techniques using the same
self-striping yarn. I browsed through all the resources I could at the
times and found some Japanese wristlets utilizing Estonian spiral
stitch, which causes the straight stripes to mimic a row of diamonds.
That sock, along with its mates in entrelac and Fair-isle, found its way
to “Think Outside the SOX” contest in 2009. One of the judges at that
contest was Lucy Neatby who, as I discovered much much later, has
similar socks with Estonian spiral under her belt, moreover, it’s knit
out of the same yarn I used! Imagine my confusion and intimidation when I
found out…
Then
in August 2013 I’ve published “Exotic Whirlpool” socks, and in December
2013 Jeny Staiman’s “Wraptor” socks were published by Knitty webzine.
From explanations on her blog it looks like we came up with our ideas
roughly at the same time!
But
the most impressive coincidence had happened in 2015, when my
“Tradescantia Zebrina” socks were launched for Round 6 of Sock Madness
9, and then Kirsten Hall’s “Far Into the Forest” socks went live for
Stage 2 of Tour de Socks. I’ve heard there were some jokes on that among
the knitters who participated in both competitions :)
So
I see no point in hiding in ivory tower – you still can accidentally
catch the wave, so it’s better to be aware of what’s happening around.
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| “Wrapped in Rainbows” (unpublished) |
How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
I'm
reading Kate Atherley’s “The Beginner’s Guide to Writing Knitting
Patterns” at the moment, and she infuses some quotes from real knitters,
and there were several that I could honestly attest only as requests
for “dumbing down”. I’ve even seen similar lamentations on Ravelry
forums coming out from people calling themselves designers! Well, I sort
of can understand if one wrote complicated patterns for the whole day,
then they probably will be grateful to just follow someone else’s
pattern in the evening without deciding on which cast-on to use or how
to space the increases or decreases, but maybe they should just choose a
different pattern for mindless knitting then? Like, a garter-stitch
scarf, or a dishcloth…
For
me, knitting is never only about mindlessly forming stitches. I believe
a true knitter should understand what happens on their needles every
single moment, and such understanding is a great part of knitting
pleasure as I see it. If one doesn’t want to understand and only wants a
new FO, then maybe they should find a ready-to-use item instead of
trying to make it.
What I would love to see in patterns, though, is a brief explanation *why*
some manipulation is performed. Most of the times I can decipher a
designer’s intent – and adjust accordingly, say, if I prefer a different
increase method. But in some cases they describe the next step in so
detailed way it totally obscures the goal. (I can freely admit I am
guilty in this as well – sometimes I just don’t want to explain why I
want the knitters to do the things my way, it’s so much simpler just to
tell them to do this and then that…)
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
Usually
I knit samples myself and then patternize them, this way I am sure the
thing works not only in my head. But then I try to run a test to make
sure the thing works for other knitters as well. I have some followers
who very kind-heartedly greet my patterns, so I notify them about
chances to sneak peek, but my tests are open to everyone.
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| “Bavarian Gloves” based on a stitch from “Twisted-Stitch Knitting” directory by Maria Erlbacher (unpublished) |
Did you do a formal business plan?
I try to publish something every year, 3 patterns being the bare minimum.
Regarding
business, I think I am probably the worst kind of an indie designer
(from a designer’s point of view) – since I am able to come up with
attractive remarkable patterns that I unleash to run for free, thus
undercutting the market for those who design for living. But I see it
slightly differently. There are several modern sock designers who
self-publish outstanding patterns free of charge, like General Hogbuffer
and Caoua Coffee, and I am proud to be among them.
Do you have a mentor?
I’d
love to have one, though maybe not for knitting but for
business-related stuff as I seem to have no business bone in me. I know
it sounds contradictory to what I just said about pride and all. See,
over here small businesses like selling patterns aren’t very common, but
according to our tax rules one should pay obligatory social taxes even
without any business activity, let alone profit. Plus don’t forget the
current exchange rates aren’t very favorable for Russian ruble now:
either my prices in other currencies would be lower than average (so I’d
be underselling against international designers), or my prices would be
extremely high for local customers thus repelling them (which I find
kind of unnatural); and a typical Ravelry price was already considered
pretty high even when the exchange rates were more tolerable.
As
for knitting, I’d love to have a mentor, say, 20 years ago, even
someone who would just direct me to a knitting bible like “Azbuka
vyazaniya” (“Knitting ABC”) by Margarita Maksimova that could save me
years of trials and errors. On the other hand, I wouldn’t be the one who
I am now without those trials and errors, so I don’t regret the
ways I’ve gained my experience.
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| “Nialia”, bi-directional fraternal socks inspired by “Saga of Seven Suns” by Kevin J. Anderson (unpublished) |
Do you use a tech editor?
Since
my self-published patterns are free, I politely ask my English-speaking
knitting friends to check my scribbles, plus I always ask the testers
to point out for all the kinks they may encounter.
And
when I designed on commission, the publisher provided the TE thing. I
actually liked that part of the work most! Tech editors are like fitness
trainers for words and they can do miracles to unshaped wall of text,
loose and messy, transforming it into a handsome wording anyone would be
happy to follow.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
That’s
simple. Since my daily work has nothing to do with knitting, I spend
all my free time knitting. Well, also playing video games, sewing,
reading, watching anime and movies, etc.
How do you deal with criticism?
I
try to be positive about it even if it’s worded in a hurtful way. (The
most hurtful I’ve seen so far was that my pattern was too detailed. That
came from a Russian knitter, we don’t like walls of text here.)
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?The only thing I know is that you should design the stuff you love.
