Happy New Year!

What are your New Year Resolutions?

Most of us make New Year's resolutions in a variety of areas of our lives. I think the most common involve eating, exercise, money management and clutter. However this is a knitting blog so it’s time to talk about knitting related resolutions. 

UFOs I think almost every knitter has a few unfinished objects hanging around. The exceptions may be the only two knitters I have ever met who claim to work on only one project at a time. One referred to herself as a "monogamous" knitter. 

I'm guilty of the tendency to abandon projects. Usually it happens either because something isn't working design-wise or I get excited about something new.  Go through these projects and make a decision, could they be finished or is it time to rip the item out and choose a different project?

Stash can at times feel like it is weighing us down. If you feel that way one of the things you can do is an item by item assessment. Ask yourself, do you still love it? Try matching patterns to your stash to encourage yourself to start working with it. If you really don't want the yarn anymore you can donate the it. There are many organizations that will happily take your unloved yarn. Or you can have a knitter's yarn swap party and trade it with your knitting friends. Just don't be jealous when they do something fabulous with items you choose to let go.

Swatches Commit to swatching and to properly blocking your swatches. If I have to explain why you must be new to reading my blog! Go here to my topic page and look under swatching if you need to know more.

Learn something new, or not? I'm a knitter who wants to learn new things with every project. I'm also someone who gets to focus on knitting everyday so learning keeps everything fresh for me. I highly recommend this approach. If that's who you are, set goals for yourself. You could take a class, commit to reading more technique articles or make a target list of new techniques. On the other hand if you are a person with a high stress life who uses your knitting as a calming practice embrace that approach and love what knitting brings to your life.

 

How to Place Vertical or Horizontal Darts

McCalls Sewing Pattern - M2718

In a recent class I was asked how to go about placing vertical darts. I was taught this method in my pattern drafting classes. The classes I took were for individual customized patterns either for the student or for private clients. Factory standard sizing usually quotes measurements by size, spaced proportionally in thirds across the bodice measurement.  As an example, a size 36 would have the centre of each dart placed 6 inches in from each side seam, leaving 6 inches across the centre front section. Dart legs are then placed around those 1/3 centre points. 

When creating a customized pattern the vertical darts should be aligned with the middle of each breast, and end about an inch below the apex. Horizontal bust darts are also placed in the middle, and end at the same distance from the apex. If back darts are required the same rules are used, using the point of the wearer's shoulder blade as the apex. These darts are located by draping. A flat piece of fabric is placed on the body and the excess fabric is pinned out. For further clarification google "you tube pattern draping". You can watch the videos if this concept is one you are not familiar with.

In knitting we often have to fudge placement due to stitch pattern constrictions. The fabric we are creating is stretchy so we can get away with this. With woven fabric it is much more difficult to change the end point of a dart without impacting fit, however sewers do have the ability to move the starting point of the dart as long as they keep the apex aligned correctly. 

What are the differences between short row darts and vertical darts?

Short row darts are unique to knitting. They are created by working partial rows to increase the length of the knitting in a specific area of the fabric. They are worked horizontally, adding a small area of knitting which creates a bump in the knitting which corresponds to your bumps.

Vertical darts similar to sewing darts which are placed on the front of blouses and jackets. They can both add and remove width across the garment. They remove stitches above the hip to emphasize the waist shaping and then add stitches back in to accommodate the curve of the bust. If you don't require waist shaping you can choose to work the increase section only.

An Interview with...Betty Salpekar

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Betty here and here on Ravelry, her Ravelry group is here. The website for her book can be found here. 

Where do you find inspiration?
Everywhere! But I seem particularly attuned to repeating patterns. I remember sitting as a child at adult gatherings where I had be still and quiet, and I would amuse myself by staring at the upholstery, draperies, wallpaper, etc. until I could figure out the pattern repeats.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I really never met one I didn't like. But currently I'm particularly fond of traveling stitch, stranded color work, and brioche.

Could you tell us about the process of writing your book Solefull Socks and the new technique you developed?
It all started because I wanted to find a way to keep my hand-knitted socks from developing holes on the sole just where the reinforcement yarn ended. What finally worked best was to carry along the reinforcement yarn on the whole sole, not just part of the heel and part of the toe. The best way to do that was to knit the sole in full first, by itself, before any of the rest of the sock. That not only solved my problem, but it was great fun to have the whole sock top available as an unbroken design canvas, with no flaps to make or stitches to pick up. Even better, the way the top is constructed allows stitch patterns — even just simple stripes — to merge,  diverge, bend, and develop in unique and exciting ways. 

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I've never found it possible to avoid seeing other designers' work. In fact, I delight in other people's creativity and innovation — makes me proud to be human! But I do consciously try to avoid doing anything similar to other people's work. If I see something that is like an idea I've had, I don't mind discarding my idea and going on to another project. But nobody can keep up with everything out there, of course, and inevitably similar things will occasionally emerge without either designer having seen the other's work.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
It's difficult these days to find a balance between clarity and too much detail. I take great pains to write my patterns as clearly as possible without making them too long and without insulting my readers' intelligence. I know that knitters are smart, logical people capable of learning new things.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fair-isle-trellis

Do you have a mentor?
I have found that there is always something I can learn from every knitter I have a chance to talk with, regardless of their experience level. There is always something they know that I don't know. In that sense, we are all mentors to each other!

How are you using social media to grow your business?
That is my challenge of the moment. I think social media has a lot of potential which I am barely even aware of, and I would like to learn how to use it more. What little I've done with it is kind of fun.

Do you use a tech editor?
Definitely — would never think of not using one. Jamie McCanless is my favorite, and he did a yeoman job on my book.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/semi-aran

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
That takes practice but I think I'm finally getting the hang of it. I make lots of lists, which helps both with planning and perspective. And I put a high priority on finding at least a little time each day for exercise, especially walking, and for knitting something relaxing.

How do you deal with criticism?
That's always difficult — some days more than other days. But I have found that knitters are generally kind and willing to try to understand another viewpoint. They're really pretty impressive!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/irises-2

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Luckily, it was never my goal to support myself with knitting or writing.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Try not to lose the joy of knitting, even after it becomes a job.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/syncopation-3

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fair-gyle

 

Merry Christmas!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodland-wreath

I'm busy working on Christmas for my family. I wish you all a happy holiday season.

It Made Me Smile

I was Christmas shopping and came across this window and store display. Enjoy!

An Interview with...Lisa Craig

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/4ply-baby-hunter-hat-by-little-cupcakes

 

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/anna-rose-hat-and-leggings---bc34

You can find Lisa here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

We live in the outskirts of Auckland City, New Zealand near the village of Clevedon. Here we live in the country on a hill and our view is farmland, the river and the sea. With the ever changing weather and seasons, the inspiring landscape with tides coming in and out and interesting bird life I'm inspired by all that is around me. Just living in a creative spot you have the space to dream.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/baby-bunting-blanket-by-little-cupcakes---bc41

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I love lace and the challenge of making a new design work.

How did you determine your size range?

I started designing for my children when they were little because I couldn't find patterns that were quite what I wanted to knit. So I came up with Baby Cakes 0 - 18 months, Little Cupcakes 1 - 10 years and woman's accessories Honey Cakes
 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/harper-hoodie---bc52

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I like to look and see what other designers are doing. I especially like looking at books or magazines that I'm also published in, to see other designer's interpretation of the same design brief. 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I do a lot myself, my mother knitted a lot for me before she passed away. I do have a group of knitters lined up for a new project I'm working on in the new year.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tessa-hat-by-little-cupcakes---lc04

Did you do a formal business plan?

I have no formal business plan, the business has morphed and grown to what it is today. 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I'm too creative to focus on a business model, my husband and I bounce ideas off each other and get tips from our business minded friends.

 http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lolly-pop-cardi---lf24

How are you using social media to grow your business?

I do use Facebook, I show new patterns and talk about what we are doing. I also use Pinterest and next year I'm starting a blog which will be mostly photographic inspiration. And Instagram too.

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes I do.
 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/eugenie-sweater---lf26

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

My husband and I both run our own businesses, we work together a lot. Our children model the Little Cupcake range, my husband does the photography, because we work from home, work fits in around our family life

How do you deal with criticism?

I receive so many compliments with my design work that it outweighs the odd criticism, I find that any criticism is that person's own interpretation, so I'm not bothered by it. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honey-star-hat---hc03

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rosalind-hat---hc07

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I studied Textile Design and then worked for a yarn company designing, so I've supported myself right from the beginning.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Always pursue something you love and that gives you the passion and drive to succeed.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/noughts-and-crosses-hoodie---lf11

An Interview with...Carla Meijsen

Leg Warmers

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.


You can find Carla here and here on Ravelry. Her blog is here.

Where do you find inspiration?

I use a lot of different things for inspiration. First of all, traveling, as nothing beats the ‘real experience’. Seeing the authentic knitwear in other countries, made by local knitters, is the best source of inspiration I know. I often travel to the more Nordic countries like the Scandinavian countries, the UK or, best of all, the Baltic states. Estonia is my favourite country. Also I buy a lot of books on knitting, knitting tradition and knitting history from all over the world - old as well as new. I have a nice collection of Dutch knitting books, the oldest dating from around 1850. Also a lot of old knitted items. I love to see how they are made and how the wear shows how they have been used. 

What is your favourite knitting technique? 

Hmm, I have several favourite techniques, but at the moment I’m totally obsessed with twined knitting. I just published a book about this technique. It took me several years to write it and I’m happy that it is finished and that I can hold it in my hands now. Actually I expected that I would not do any twined knitting for a while after finishing, to give it a rest, but to my surprise I just continued knitting in this technique. Also a few other things in different techniques too, just for variation! 

Available here

Please tell us about your recent book, “So Warm! Twined Knitting".

The title is officially: “Lekker Warm! Twijnend Breien – So Warm! Twined Knitting”. It is a bilingual book, all text in Dutch and English. It is the book that I put my heart and soul in, I loved making it so much! As I did a lot of the work myself (helped sometimes by friends) - writing texts, photography, improving images with Photoshop, graphical design, designing, pattern writing, promoting, distributing, etc. (other chores were done by friends or even my husband Jan, like styling models) - it became more and more important to me.

I’m very thorough: I did my best to explain the techniques clearly, and added loads of photos to show how each technique is done. I have a lot of experience teaching knitting classes, which is a good start for giving explanations in the books I write. The book started as a smaller book, but grew and grew to 200 pages, 30 designs, hard cover, big format, so now it weighs 1.2 kg [2.6 lbs]. I’m so proud of it, especially when I see that knitters are really happy with it and are inspired to give twined knitting a go.

Printing and translating are, of course, not done by me. The translation is done by a professional translator who also is a knitter. ;-)  I hope that with my book I contribute to the popularity of twined knitting. It is a great technique with lots of potential to make beautiful things. My designs are based on tradition, but I give them a modern twist. 

How did you determine your size range?

I use charts for all of my designs, combined with written texts for the basic things. Using other needle sizes and maybe even thinner or thicker yarn will make the dimensions of your project smaller or bigger. In the book I give directions on how to do that.

From So Warm!

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I’m very interested in the work of other knitters. As I know how my mind works when I’m designing, I’m not afraid of being influenced too much. It is like in art, anyone who can handle the technique can copy a famous painting, but making a unique piece is the hardest. The work of other designers and the reaction of the public to it is interesting, I think. It tells you what people like. Of course it is important to have your own style, but a designer should also consider the taste of the knitters and the influence of the time we live in, especially the influence of fashion on the knitting world. That we look with respect and interest at work of other designers, now or in the past, doesn’t mean we should copy it stitch by stitch!

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
 
If you mean, making it easier to knit, I have mixed feelings about it. I do think that simple patterns with spectacular effects (for example the innovative knitting designs of Elizabeth Zimmermann!) are great. Never make something that is easy to do more difficult than is needed. On  the other hand, I hope that knitters don’t lose the ability to do the really difficult and/or time consuming knitting jobs. Hopefully these two approaches can co-exist and will each have their own merits. 

The bottom line for me is that I would rather see someone do simpler knitting work, have pleasure doing it and maybe even someday proceed to doing more difficult work, than see them do nothing at all. Even when doing the simplest shawl on big needles, I think that person is creative. Choosing wool, colours and pattern and actually seeing the project grow in your hands is a creative process. I like more difficult and complicated knitting myself and as I see there is a big group of knitters ready to take on new challenges, I focus on more complicated and traditional knitting designs.

From So Warm!

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
 
Lets count,… nine for this book. I do a lot of the knitting myself, checking and often knitting several versions of one design, but after a while you get blind to your own mistakes. You need others to test knit for you. Some of the test knitters are good in checking every symbol on a chart, some are good checking texts. Elsbeth Reits is the quickest - she knit almost all the designs in the book!

Did you do a formal business plan?
 
No, not at all. My company was just born without me being aware of it. It just grew out of enthusiasm and the drive to do things in the knitting world. Now that the business is growing, I do more planning, but essentially the big plan is in my head.

Do you have a mentor?
 
Not a official one, but I have some ‘famous’ knitters as my friends and others I ask for advice when needed, which is often. Different knitters are in their own special way examples for me. Just a few examples: Elizabeth Zimmermann – of course ;-) – Annemor Sundbo from Norway for the way she preserves the techniques and traditions of Norwegian knitting, Nancy Marchant for her thorough way of working, and a lot of Estonian knitters for the way they want to share their knitting techniques with others who are interested in it. Well, I could go on for a while….

Do you have a business model that you have emulated? 

See above.

From So Warm!

Do you use a technical support person?


No, I do almost anything myself. As I’m from ICT [IT], and thought about ICT, networks, Internet, etc. for years, I can handle a lot of technical stuff myself. I don’t use official programs for designing, just Excel and graphical software.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
 
Not. I’m almost always knitting, thinking about knitting, organizing or going on knitting holidays, or writing about knitting. But, I’m happy with it! When my hobby became more and more a profession, I thought it would not be any fun anymore to knit. Well, that isn’t true - it gets better and better the more you do with it, even when that is officially ‘work’. 

How do you deal with criticism? 

Criticism is free advice!

From So Warm!

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself? 

I will not tell you about my personal situation, but when knitters ask me for advice on how to start their own business, I always make jokes about first finding a rich husband – or wife! ;-)

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
 
It may sound like the simplest thing to say, but I always follow my heart. If I don’t like it or don’t like doing it, it will not become a success. Also, one should realize that there are more and more people who want to work in the knitting world, but it is not easy and you have to work hard and you have to put lots of hours of labour into it,… and still you will not get rich. If you don’t mind that, go for it!