An Interview with...Kaffe Fassett

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

Kaffe Fassett, perhaps the most celebrated textile artist in the world today, is known above all for his mastery of color. In his first book collaboration with Brandon Mably, his studio design partner, Kaffe finds exciting inspiration in the textures, shapes, and patterns all around us.

You can find Kaffe here.

Where do you find inspiration?

That question which is often asked, seems to imply that I find inspiration in one specific place, where as good ideas are everywhere. Decorative Arts Museum's are a good place to start but any street or the countryside will give you so much.

Pattern from Knitting with the Color Guys

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Simple stocking stitch, as colour does all the fancy work I need.  

How did you determine your size range?

I notice a lot of knitters are large so I often design big jackets and long waistcoats to suit those generous shapes. 

    

I've noticed that your new book is on accessories and home decor projects. Could you tell us a little more about your design focus? 

I'm most interested in colour and pattern so scarves, throws, shawls give me a big canvas to express myself with. 

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I love to look at other designers but usually I can take them in at a glance. I love complexity which I rarely see in others work these days.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters? 
Sad, if knitters are encouraged they can do what I do very well. I've seen people who weren't told it was difficult, try a complex design as a 1st project and succeed!

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself? 
I do most of it myself these days. I used to have 2 or 3 knitters but I'm faster than most so can do my own sample swatches.  

Did you do a formal business plan? 
No. 

Do you have a mentor? 
Not really, though a lot of people in publishing and yarn production help me. Plus a network of shops around the world.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated? 
I have tried to have a shop and failed miserably so learned to keep my business simple and in my control so I admire any business that can stay strong and maintain it's original flavour. The Missoni family are doing it well. Peruvian Connection is my favourite these days with their rich hand knitting. 

Pattern from Knitting with the Color Guys

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

It certainly helps promote my books, classes, and exhibitions and my email newsletters keep everybody up to date with new work, fabrics and events.

   www.kaffefasett.com 

Do you use a Tech Editor? 
No.

How do you maintain your life/work balance? 
Not terribly well. I am a bit of a workaholic but I love what I do and it can be very therapeutic. I try to go exercising and visiting friends and family whenever I can get away.

Pattern from Knitting with the Color Guys

How do you deal with criticism?

I don't get that much and hate it as much as anyone else. I always try and calm down and learn from it. 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

As I lived very frugally at first it didn't take long to support myself. I was good at drumming up business.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

If you love it and focus it can work, but you have to be very savvy about publicity and inspire people to commission you to do work and try everything at first. Most of all don't be afraid to use colour!

Classes at the Downtown Knit Collective Frolic

I'll be teaching at this years Frolic. You can find all the classes listed here. These are also the classes that I will be offering at Vogue Live in Chicago next October.

My classes are:

Buttonhole Boot-Camp - Saturday, April 28, 9:30-12:30 p.m.

How to Get the Most Out of Hand Dyed and Variegated Yarns - Saturday, April 28, 1:30-4:30 p.m.

Band Practice - Sunday, April 29, 10:00-1:00 p.m.

Cardigan Queen - Sunday, April 30, 2:00-5:00 p.m.

The details and description for each is linked on the website.

Two Years Ago......

Part of the motivation for this blog was to provide a way of tracking my development as a knitting professional. I occasionally go back and read old posts. I find the interviews are often even more enlightening now that I have more experience regarding the topics the interviewees discuss. In some cases I've since developed a personal relationship with them so it's fun to reread in that new context. 

Some of my older posts give me ideas for new posts, especially if I have learned something that I want to bring to my readers attention. Sometimes I just feel I have more to say on a given topic.

Old posts often suddenly pop to the top of the list of what's being read. Sometimes I can tell why and at others it's a complete mystery. Old interviews do the same thing, sometimes it's because the subject has published a book or their new design is hot or they are teaching at an upcoming knitting event.

Two years ago this month I interviewed: Marnie MacLean, Stefanie Japel, Nicky Epstein and Beth Brown-Reinsel.

You can read them now if you missed the original posts.

 

An Interview with...Brandon Mably

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

Brandon regularly contributes to Rowan magazine. He has many dedicated followers and is an inspiration with his passion for the craft of knitting and for his amazing skill at combining colours. In his first book collaboration with Kaffe Fassett, his studio design partner, Brandon has recently published Knitting with the Color Guys. Next week I will have an interview with Kaffe.

You can find Brandon here.

Where do you find inspiration?

Inspiration is found around every corner, from a row of chimney pots to a fruit market plus the old world fuel to the imagination by adding a new colour arrangement gives it fresh life.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I knit to put colours together, basic stocking stitch is all that I need to do to hold the colours with an added technique or working with manageable lengths of yarn.

      

I've noticed that you are focusing more on accessories. Could you tell us a little more? 

Our new book "Knitting with the Colour Guys' focuses on accessories and yes, Kaffe has designed sock yarn for Regia and we do throw it in here and there. It is a hugely popular yarn range.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I love to see what's on the catwalk but otherwise I'm so wrapped up in looking at ideas I've picked up from museums, books, magazines or old textiles etc I don't really follow them.

Check out my book 'Knitting Colour' Its all about where I get ideas and use them. It's a good workshop book too.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

Frankly, I don't take any notice. Knitters generally love to see something fabulous in colours so we give it to them. Vogue Knitting certainly don't restrain us or Rowan.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

Besides myself knitting up swatches I have 2 knitters I can hand my swatches over to knit into garments and write the instructions for. 

Pattern from Knitting with the Color Guys.

Did you do a formal business plan?

What's that?

Do you have a mentor?

There are many people I admire including Kaffe and Debbie Bliss.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

A lot, it's opened up one's profile to the world but also attracts a lot of time wasting questions and distractions. 

Pattern from Knitting with the Color Guys

Do you use a Tech Editor?

We provide a hand written graph to the publisher with a swatch or finished garment. 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Both Kaffe and I live for work but both exercise regularly. We make time for the theatre, cinema, exhibitions, as well. We don't work as 9 to 5 day though.

How do you deal with criticism?

Like anyone else, its hard to take.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Because I live very simply not very long.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Try and find your own voice. If you have the passion go for it!

Pattern from Knitting with the Color Guys

Pink Collar Ghettos

The label "pink collar ghetto" has applied to all of the jobs I've had in the past. The term applies to female dominated jobs. Generally these positions are lower paying and often so even when blue collar jobs in the same industry pay significantly more. It also means that many women are stuck in certain jobs, The word ghetto is used to suggest an career area where women are marginalized economically. Pink collar denotes jobs historically held only by women (cleaning, administration and health care workers). In the past these were referred to as maid, secretary and nurse. 

While I was reasonably well compensated during my telecommunications career, the systematic discrimination was eventually acknowledged and it resulted in human rights complaints that culminated in a large cash payout. The reaction of the company I worked for was to hire many more men into certain jobs to more evenly balance the numbers, yet at the same time they did not hire more women into the male dominated jobs and the women who went after the internal job postings for those positions did not find it easy to get those jobs.

I worked in the stock brokerage industry for four years. I was shocked by how much more openly women there were discriminated against. In those four years there were some blatant examples of offensive behaviour that still make me cringe with horror when I remember the details.

Many things have changed in our culture as evidenced by the change of language in the job titles I listed above. Women have made great strides in all areas of education and career advancement. However the realities of our responsibilities, children and other care-giving functions still have an impact on the working lives of women.

The knitting industry is also dominated by women and as evidenced by my interviews and personal observation compensation is very low. It's often a topic among knitting professionals but none of us see clear solutions and many in the industry are unwilling to speak openly on this topic.

What do you think, are we perpetuating another pink collar ghetto within the knitting industry?

The Economics of Knitting - What Ever Happened to Van Der Rock Yarns?

I was trying to look up Van Der Rock Yarns recently and came across a post Stephanie put up after making the hard decision to discontinue her indie dyeing operation. You can read it here.

I'm bringing this to your attention because I interviewed Stephanie some time ago on my blog. You can see the interview here. I think that it's important that everyone knows just how hard it is to make a living in our industry. I'm sad that she couldn't make it work and I want to remind you that if you want great hand-dyed yarns we need to support these business's by buying their yarns.

An Interview with...Erica Patberg

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winesap-capelet

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Erica here on Ravelry and her website is here.

Where do you find inspiration?  

I find inspiration everywhere. I'm always thinking of knitting, and anything that catches my eye or intrigues me could spark a new design. I'm a bit of a intellectual magpie, collecting bits and pieces of shiny facts and ideas from a wide spectrum of disciplines. I love looking through historical dress; The Met and The Kyoto Costume collection have a wealth of captivating images. I find inspiration in architecture, an unusual shape of a window, the decorative iron work on the top of a tower. From nature and my environment; the serpentine tracks left by skiers in fresh powder or the repetitive ridges of a freshly groomed trail, veining in a leaf. I love looking at Haute Couture fashion and translating a fold or silhouette or wonderful design detail into a knitted garment that has the spirit of the unusual but is more wearable. 

 

What is your favourite knitting technique? 

I love the twists and turns of cables. I especially love coming up with new cable patterns or taking a traditional cable pattern and giving it a new twist. That said, my favourite techniques change as I learn and explore new techniques.  I particularly like unusual applications of old techniques. 


How did you determine your size range?  
It often depends on the publication I'm writing for or the garment itself.  Accessories I usually design in one or two sizes, sweaters that I think will have a flattering fit for all sizes I really like to make the effort to provide a large size range. Everyone should be able to create flattering knits! As I write the pattern, I keep an Excel spreadsheet open and do the grading as I go, keeping a tally of stitch counts and repeats for all sizes. 


Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs? 

I love to look at other designers' work and not just knitting designers. Many times a day, I see something beautiful or unique or just brilliant and I think to myself, "Oh, I wish I had designed that!" It's one of the things that motivates me to keep improving and growing as a designer. 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?  

I didn't know that there was a controversy. As an American knitter, I tend to lean towards specifying more rather than less. Giving stitch counts at the end of a row with increases or decreases, specifying the type of cast on if it matters.  In the Netherlands, where I live, knitting was taught in schools until recently. There is an assumption that knitters have more independent knowledge thus patterns are more brief, giving just the essentials needed to knit a piece and leaving more decisions up to the knitter. I think both styles of directions have their place. As a beginner more step by step instruction can help you to learn a new skill or complete a project. For publication, pithy instructions keep costs down and allow for more designs in each magazine. 


How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself? 

I've had one sweater knitted by a sample knitter due to time constraints. It was a fantastic experience, though I had to get used to the idea of handing over the design process and control earlier in the design process.  It also required me to really think through the pattern instructions very clearly before sending the pattern off. The sample knitter for Interweave was busy, so the sweater was actually knit by Eunny Jang, so of course the final sweater was lovely.  I really enjoy the research and design process and often knit under tight deadlines.  I'd like to make more use of sample knitters to allow me to spend more time designing and reduce the pressure when deadlines loom!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woven-cowl-2

Did you do a formal business plan?  

I was a stockbroker on Wall Street many moons ago, and worked as a business consultant in the financial software industry so the business side of a creative industry comes perhaps a little more easily. I do have a list of goals (both financial and personal) for my business. Working as a designer I earn a fraction of what I did in banking, but I find it infinitely more rewarding. Financial success, personal interactions, creative fulfillment, these are all factors that are incorporated into my definition of success.    

Do you have a mentor?  

Perhaps not a mentor in a traditional sense, but I am very fortunate to count some very inspirational knitters in my circle.  Specifically, Nancy Marchant, the queen of brioche, who has given me good advice on where to submit more unusual garments.  She has a wealth of knowledge from decades in the industry and is free in sharing her insights and opinions. I owe her a great debt.  My other role model is Betty Salpekar.  Betty is unassuming but one of the most knowledgeable knitters I have met. She has an even, zen like charm and during a crisis while knitting my first garment for publication under deadline, Betty's calm demeanor, warm cup of tea and sage advice put me back on track. I count myself very lucky to know these women!


Do you have a business model that you have emulated?  

I don't have a business model that I've emulated. My process has been more trial and error. I've self-published patterns, published in magazines, written articles for handwork magazines. I'm continuing to dip my toe into different aspects of the knitting industry searching for a niche that is fulfilling and also provides a reasonable income.  At the moment I'm beginning a collaboration with a Dutch clothing label with a hand knit collection. I'm really excited about this foray into the fashion side of knitwear. 


What impact has the Internet had on your business? 
My business is completely dependent on the Internet! I got my start by self-publishing two patterns on Ravelry. The first submission call that I submitted to I learned about via the Internet. I'm also active on Ravelry (my Ravelry name is Hank) and use Twitter to stay in touch with other designers and knitters since working from home can be a bit isolating. 

Do you use a Tech Editor?

For my magazine work my designs are all tech edited by the publication's tech editor.  With my first few self-published patterns I used test knitters and now with EFN (the European Fiber Network) that I run with Cassandra Luckhardt, we use Sophie Oudry (@monbouton on Twitter) as our Tech Editor. She's quick and accurate and lovely to work with. 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

I wish I had figured that one out! Being self-employed, I find it really hard to take time off. I work hours that would be illegal in most countries! Work often comes in spurts, so I take work when it comes and focus on other aspects of building my business during quieter times. 

How do you deal with criticism?

In other parts of my life I can be quite sensitive to criticism. Within the knitting world, I have yet to receive any harsh criticism.  I'm a rather new designer, so it's probably just a matter of time.  I'd like to think that accurate critique will fuel me to improve.  

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I've been viewing my knitwear design as a business for almost a year now. Though I have a small and steady income I haven't yet reached a point where I would rely on my knitting income to pay the mortgage. I keep on top of expenses such as shipping, marketing, advertisement and the time I invest to determine which types of designs generate the most profit.  I plan to continue to grow over the coming 5 years to the point where my knitting design contributes significantly to my family income. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Persistence is crucial. I really wish that I had had a formal education in textile or fashion design. I'd advise would be designers to treat it like any other career; invest in your education, work hard, and follow your heart. 

---

Designers - Do you Think of Success in Competitive Terms?

 

One of my personal life laws is: Run your own race.

What that means to me is that I compete with myself on a daily basis, but I rarely compete with others. It seems somewhat counter productive to me because I have no control over what they are doing but every control over what I'm doing. I evaluate myself on showing improvement in the areas that I'm concerned with.

I also believe that the more successful my knitting professional friends are the more successful I will be. Their success's will ultimately lead to more successful knitters and more successful knitters will lead to more knitters to buy my patterns and take my classes. I don't believe that another designer's or teacher's failure is some sort of a gain for me. At knitting events the attendance of more pros means more knitters will attend, which is good for me.

I'm well aware that many other knitting professionals focus on the competitive nature of the business, and view it as a static market place that they have to fight in to protect their segment. They agonize over things like how knitters seem to choose one pattern provider over another. What makes customers decide to buy one type of needle rather than another? Is it reputation, or image and visibility? Are brand names important? How influential is word of mouth in increasing business? How much depends on reputation or following knitting trends or being active in social media?

I don't have the answers to those questions but I am sure that worrying about what everyone else is doing is unlikely to change much for me in the way I make my business decisions. 

Vogue Live

I have some news that I’m excited to share! I’ll be teaching at Vogue Live in Chicago at the end of October. You can see the save the date announcement here.

What Knitters are Reading

It always surprises me when for some inexplicable reason an old post pops to the top of my Google stats list. This one from 2009 has been my most read post for over a week now. It's about the disrespect our society has for knitters.

An Interview with...Grace Akhrem

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Grace here and here on Ravelry. All the patterns shown are available on her site or on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

I find my inspiration in color.  I love mostly all colors.  I usually start to swatch first and play with stitches before I know what anything will be.  Sometimes the texture of the yarn will speak to me as well.  

What is your favorite knitting technique?

Short-rows, by far. But I do love lace too..... combining the two is even better - like my newest pattern Olga's Vest!

How did you determine your size range?

I usually make one size first (medium... it's a good place to start) and see how flexible the garment is.  For example, my Janna's Tunic I sized it from S-XL.  I made the XL to fit me.... turns out the S size fit me too, so I decided that this garment is very stretchy and I didn't really need to size it any larger than XL. 

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I absolutely look at other designers work.  I think one's design is a reflection of the way their mind works and it's nice to see how other people think about and view knitting designs and construction.  For example two of my favorite designer's are Olga Buraya-Kefelian and Julie Weisenberger for their great eye and construction.  But I have never fear being influenced by other designers work, I would say that sometimes I am inspired. 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I don't see anything wrong with that.  It doesn't take that much extra time for a designer to explain a couple of techniques to broaden their market.  Beginner knitters are already limited when it comes to patterns, why not expand their choices and increase their skill level?! 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I do most of the sample knitting myself and some of the test knitting as well.  Right now I only have about two sample knitters working for me and about 3-4 test knitters. 

Did you do a formal business plan?

Not at all. 

Do you have a mentor?

This position has not yet been filled - but I am taking applications.  Ha ha!  I just kind of fell into all of this, no mentor yet, but it would be nice. 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No. I just do what makes sense. 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I would say that it has increased my pattern sales of course, but for me it's all about the LYS.  I would say that a lot more LYS carry my patterns in hard copy after seeing them on Ravelry.  

Do you use a Tech Editor? 
I do all the tech editing my self.  Sometimes I do miss things (like little typos) here and there, but for the most part I do catch everything.  I have been thinking about using a tech editor for a while (to lighten my workload), but I haven't found the right one yet.   

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

That is a very good question.  What most people don't know is that I have a full-time job on top of the designing career.  It is very difficult to juggle the two.  My personal life suffers for this great cause.  After a full day at work I come home and work on my patterns for about 6-7 hours and on weekends as well.  I leave a little time here and there for grocery shopping, and things like that, but for the most part (at this point in my life) work is a priority. 

How do you deal with criticism?

I take it for what it is.  If someone has an opinion about my work I want to hear it, good or bad.  Just like I have an opinion (and I always do) I would want mine o be heard.  Constructive criticism is always the best, it shows there is room to improve. 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I'm still not quite there yet... unfortunately.  I live in LA - it's quite an expensive city.  I hope one day (soon) I am able to support myself.  

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Do what you love and success will follow shortly.

Maintaining a Knitting Blog

A number of us at the Pro-Knitters group have blogs. You can find them all here.

Deb,

Kate 
and Kate also posts on the Knitty blog,

Carol,

Monika,

Glenna,
Bernice ,
Fiona doesn't have her own blog but is a regular contributor to the Twist Collective Blog.

Julia

After much discussion about the blogging process, it turns out that I'm the only one who usually has blog posts written well in advance. I started writing ahead two years ago after my Dad was in hospital and I had to post that I wouldn't be writing at all for a while. At the time I'm writing this, I have 25 posts scheduled and 46 more in draft status. My goal is to post regularly on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. By writing ahead I can be sure I have things scheduled. I often move post dates around as more current topics come up. I try to stay 2 - 3 weeks ahead on the interviews as they take a fair bit of formatting time.  I frequently reread posts before they go up to try to catch typo's and grammatical errors. I have a bad habit of writing very long run on sentences and I have to fix them frequently. I was surprised to hear that I am the only one who works ahead. I end up writing as ideas occur to me which is why I have so many drafts waiting to be finished. Often I just put down notes about the kernel of an idea and then will come back later, flesh out the post and search for a photo that works with my topic. Working ahead like this means that I never end up feeling pressured to write when the inspiration isn't there. It also gives me time to focus on other areas of my business with out having to stop to maintain my posting schedule.

I have a Ravely group!

You can find it here.

Please come over and visit any time!

Design-a-long - The Paper Pattern Part 7 Putting it all Together

If you are all still with me on this project, it's time to start knitting! There is an optional step for those of you who would like to verify your work. You can consider drawing everything up in full size, adding seam allowances and sewing a version out of polar fleece or even using bits of old sweatshirts as your base fabric. It's the simplest and quickest way to confirm that your measurements, ease "guesstimates" and vision will match up with your intended garment. Be aware that the only way to see how the fabric truly behaves is to knit the garment. Experience helps you to improve your vision but it is not infallible. You don't need a sewing machine to do this as there is very little sewing required. It allows you to check the details with a knit fabric. You will need seam allowances at all the edges except the hems and center front edges. Make sure you include your band width on those. You can pin all the pieces together or baste them with a simple running stitch. Remember this isn't for looks it just gives you the opportunity to test the ease, confirm that you like the armhole depth, verify that the body and sleeve lengths are correct and look at any fitting issues you have had in the past. 

When I'm knitting for myself I don't write a formal pattern. I use the schematic and I write in all of the pertinent stitch numbers. I also take this opportunity to check that the counts make sense. I check things section by section. As an example I add the stitches of both shoulders to the neckline stitches and after that add in both sets of armhole cast offs. That way I confirm that the total matches the original cast on number. Sometimes in the rounding off of stitch numbers you will gain or lose a few so you need to correct them. Do this for both the front and back as well as the sleeve.

I also give some thought to seaming and if I need to adjust stitch numbers to balance any stitch patterns. I use extra plain selvage stitches for my seams if I have a stitch pattern as it makes the finishing a little easier. Once you work your way through the numbers you will find that due to gauge and ease requirements you have to make decisions about size increments that are controlled by the gauge. Have you noticed that some pattern schematics reflect rounded off numbers at different levels in even increments and others round off at different levels and seem to jump sizes oddly? Try comparing a pattern from the Interweave Knits magazine to one from Knitters. Some publications round off to whole and half inch increments and others go to quarter inch increments. This is done due to the multiple sizes that are reflected on one schematic. It also gets much more complicated when you start to deal with stitch repeats. 


You can use all of your knitting graph paper charts and a single schematic of each piece to summarize the knitting details for you to use to knit your garment from. I've included a scan of my sleeve at the top of this post as an example. 


I started with a cast on of 52 stitches, I will knit straight for 4.5 inches, then I will increase 1 stitch every 6 rows, 6 times and then 1 stitch every 4 rows, 4 times on each side, that gets me to 72 stitches. I will then knit straight until I have a total of 16 inches. I'm doing a contoured sleeve with a straight beginning and end so I know I also have a little room for fudging when I check my sleeve up against my body and the finished body of my cardigan. I usually pin the bottom of the sleeve together and leave the stitches on a needle at the top while I do this.

My sleeve cap has been graphed as 67 rows. I've noted in all the decrease steps that I need to execute. You will notice that my instructions are a little more complex than those that appear on most patterns. This is due to my customized fit, patterns often simply the instructions both for space and because they are giving instructions that are more generalized.


Links to the other posts:

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2011/12/knitting-basic-boring-garments-that-we.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2011/12/design-long-tools-and-supplies.html


http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2011/12/design-long-measurements.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2011/12/design-long-taking-measurements.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/01/design-long-swatching-yes-you-have-to.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/01/design-long-more-details-on-swatching.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/01/design-long-paper-pattern-part-1.html


http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/01/design-long-paper-pattern-part-2.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/02/design-long-paper-pattern-part-3.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/02/design-long-paper-pattern-part-4-dart.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/02/design-long-paper-pattern-part-5.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/02/design-long-paper-pattern-part-6-sleeve.html

http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/03/design-long-paper-pattern-part-7.html

An Interview with...Gail Callahan

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting knitting professionals about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of them makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Gail here.

Where do you find inspiration for your colourways?
I think seasonal changes influence my moods and observations of the world around me. There is no simple answer to this, many years of studying all of my surroundings.

What is your favourite dyeing technique?

I like to place the yarn on my stainless steel table and pour the dye stock. I use my favorite tri-cornered beakers from Prochemical Company. I have more control pouring the dye, than using a squeeze bottle, and it does not hurt my hands.

How do you choose the fibers that you work with?

I select according to the way they behave, they are like people; they have different traits. Some like to absorb the dye quickly and easily, others are stubborn and need more attention. My current favorite base is 50% silk, 50% merino I purchase from Wool2Dye4.

How did you determine what weights of yarn you stock?

Demand drives what we stock here in my home-based studio. For my own web site kangaroodyer.com I dye in small batches, a pound of a color at a time; 4 skeins in a pound. Most customers are knitting small projects, like socks, shawls and scarves. It would be prohibitive to dye large quantities for sweaters and have them sit idle in our inventory.

For Webs (yarn.com) I dye in much larger batches. Because we are busy in the store and on the Internet, the colors sell quickly. I dye a lace weight, 2/14 Alpaca Silk, two fingering/sock weight; Franklin; super wash wool and nylon, Charlemont; merino, silk and polymide, and Northfield, merino, alpaca and silk blend in a dk weight.

Could you tell us a little about the colour selection tool that you have developed?

In the process of writing my book Hand Dyeing Yarn and Fleece by Storey Publishing in 2010, I came up with a way to explain the way to choose and use color. The idea is in the book, more or less as a game. After the book was published, many people told me that they never thought about color that way, and that our tool made them finally understands how to work with color. The genius is the template that Mary Velgos developed. I am indebted to her! It is available on my web site and some retail stores. It is called Gail Callahan’s Original Color Grid.

How do you come up with names for your yarn?

At Webs in Northampton Ma., and at yarn.com. I place the new yarns on a table in the kitchen and employees put their selection for a name, then I get the final say on the names. I would never have thought of the name: Frog in a Party Dress but Malea, our office manager (and a potter,) named this favorite. On our website, kangaroodyer.com, my husband photographs all of the yarns and names them and does a great job.

Could you give us an idea of how long the process is to dye a batch of yarn and prepare it for sale?

A dye lot of 1 pound of yarn, 4 skeins takes 45 minutes; plus the 40 years of experience to make it all happen.

Do you look at other dyers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their yarns?

I was first drawn to dyeing when I saw a yarn from Fiesta called LaBhoeme, a rayon and mohair hand dyed skein. I had never seen anything more beautiful in my fiber life. This yarn served as an inspiration to create on a higher level. Obviously, I did see many dyers work, working at Webs, and it served to educate me as to what people like, but once I started my own business, I wanted my work to not look like other work already out in the market place.

Are you a knitter as well?

I knit, purl increase and decrease, period! I appreciate fine knitting, though.

Did you do a formal business plan?

No, I did not, but am now working on one. I think it will focus me on my goals.

Do you have a mentor?

Many! Just to mention a few; For the yarn business; Kathy and Steve Elkins. For the publishing aspect; Pam Art and Gwen Steege from Storey Publishing.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I wish I had time to go to business school. It fascinates me.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

It would not exist without it. I do two fiber fairs a drive from my home studio.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

I am working on this. Having a home studio is tricky.

How do you deal with criticism?

The only criticism I take seriously, is if my product is ever inferior in quality. To date that has not been an issue, but know sometimes the dyes will continue to bleed, even with a good rinsing. Taste is personal, I am sure there are many who dislike my colors, but there are many who do.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I could not pay the mortgage with the income from dyeing, yet.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in hand dyeing yarns?

Be realistic about the number of hand dyers. Look at ETSY, and the number of indie dyers there. It is a great place to put your toe in the water.