An Interview with...Tabetha Hedrick

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Tabetha here and here on Ravelry.

Pattern available here.

Where do you find inspiration? 

I am often surprised at how and when inspiration hits me, but it comes from a variety of sources: stitch pattern books, fashion shows, magazines, art, nature, and, yes, even my own knitting mistakes. 

What is your favourite knitting technique? 

I don’t have a particularly favorite technique, but I will say that I love swatching and I love seaming. I know, I know – I am the anomaly in that respect. 

How did you determine your size range? 

When self-publishing, I want to make my designs available to as many sizes possible, so I spend a lot of time graphing and grading to ensure that range. 

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs? 

When I first began designing, I was afraid of looking at other designers’ work. As I have grown, however, and developed my own “style,” so to speak, I browse other designs to notice trends, learn what to avoid, and celebrate their new innovations. 

Pattern available here.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters? 

I’ve heard the term, but am not familiar with the debates. For myself, I focus on providing patterns that are clear, well-written, and provide enough of a challenge to encourage the knitter to grow in their skills. 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself? 

At the moment, I do it all myself. I do have 1 back-up knitter, just in case. 

Did you do a formal business plan? 

Yes, I have a business plan, but I wouldn’t call it formal. It’s more of a journal filled with submission locations, indie ideas, marketing thoughts, and where I want to be in 5 years. 

Do you have a mentor? 

Yes! Jill Wright (http://www.woolcrafting.com/), an amazing designer and one of my best friends, pushed me into designing the very first day we met. She provides just the right amount of praise and critique to keep me on track and still loves me when I use her as a venting board. 

Pattern available here.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated? 

No, but I think I have read every single business, marketing, budgeting, pr, and consulting book in the library system. 

What impact has the Internet had on your business? 

I would imagine that my business would be MUCH more difficult without the web. I spend hours researching fashion trends, textiles, and knitting markets online. Advertising, online submissions, and magazine inquiries would be significantly more expensive and harder.

Do you use a Tech Editor? 

Absolutely!! I mostly rely on Ashley Knowlton, who is thorough, concise, and fast. I do not believe that you can develop a good brand without a good tech editor. 

Pattern available here.

How do you maintain your life/work balance? 

Developing a routine with the kids (my 2 girls are 4 and 6 years old), breaking down and organizing the housekeeping/chore schedule, and having the support of an amazing husband are probably the three biggest components to making my job work. Scheduling my working “time blocks” is important (I love scheduling as much as I love organizational lists), but having the flexibility to accept that nothing is perfect (or permanent) makes it all a little easier.

How do you deal with criticism? 

Criticism is hard in the “artistic” field, such as knitwear design, since complaints or disapproval can easily take on a personal note. I worry incessantly that I’ve messed up someone’s project or day because clear, quality patterns are so important to me. I immediately fix what needs to be fixed, offer amends, or try to support where I can. I have a harder time with blanket terms or general statements of displeasure, since they don’t provide a window in what to fix. Those tend to hurt, but my armor is getting thicker as time goes by.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself? 

I’m still not able to support myself, but that’s in my 5 year plan.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting? 

Have a support system, keep practicing, keep trying, and don’t give up. It is a hard, hard market to break in to, but as long as you carry yourself as a professional businesswoman (or man), you’ll find that entry way to be a little wider. 

Pattern available here.

 

The Interview Series

Every once in a while someone emails me and asks if I can do an interview with them. The first time it happened I was thrilled because it was a big name Knitter and I was very excited to find out not only was she reading my blog but she was sending others over here as well.

I  work on the interview series at least once a week and often more than that. I'm always looking for interesting candidates and many of those I ask for an interview respond positively. If there is anyone in the knitting industry who would like to participate that I have not already asked please feel free to contact me directly. Don't be shy! It's a lot of fun for me to work with someone that I know is keen to participate. You can email me at robinknitsATgmailDOTcom

I'm interested in all Knitting professionals: you can own a store, be a hand dyer, be a wholesaler, a distributor, a tech editor, a teacher or a designer. If you do something else knitting related let me know. I can tailor some questions specifically focused on your unique part of the knitting world.

The Answer from an Expert - Imogen Lamport of Inside Out Style

I recently posed this question to an image consultant: 

I would like your opinion on the hem length of tunic type tops. I’m a knitting designer and teacher and this topic comes up in my Fit and Flatter classes. I think women look slimmest when the hem hits just below the crotch so that the leg length is undetermined by the viewer and therefore looks longer. One of my designer buddies says the crotch must be exposed for the legs to look the longest. I suspect that we are both right and have failed to take a third factor into consideration, perhaps colour contrast or thigh shape. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Imogen Lamport of Bespoke Image has written a great post on the topic, you can find it here at http://www.insideoutstyleblog.com/. You may need to copy the link into your browser. I found the link was working inconsistently when I tested it. The post appeared on Sept 2 2011.

Now that I've read her notes I realize (after taking a good look in the mirror), that the widest curve on my thighs is right at my crotch and that is why I prefer a tunic top to be just a little longer. Many women have the widest section in a different spot and that impacts which hem length is best for them. The factors to consider other than thigh shape are: body shape, leg length, colour contrast of the tunic to the bottom garment and where the widest part of your body is.

Thanks Imogen, this really helps me to do a proper analysis!

I've been reading Imogen's blog for a while now and I can highly recommend it. She often answers this kind of detailed question in a way that can be applied to each unique individual. I find that many stylist's just gloss over these complex relationships of multiple factors with more general answers.

An Interview with...Amanda Lilley

Pattern available here

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.  

You can find Amanda here.

Where do you find inspiration?

I find inspiration almost anywhere and everywhere. Often times I can work a whole project around a set of buttons and sometimes a certain yarn will just jump out at me. If I really like the color and texture of a yarn it’s never too long before I dream up a design.
 

Pattern available here http://www.etsy.com/shop/AmandaLilleyDesigns?section_id=7912458

What is your favorite knitting technique?
I go through phases. I enjoy knitting lace when I have quiet uninterrupted time; I also enjoy stranded color work.

How did you determine your size range?
I design by the Yarn counsel standards. When I design for women my sizes usually range from 28” to 48” chest.

Pattern available here http://www.etsy.com/shop/AmandaLilleyDesigns?section_id=7912458

 

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I do like to look at other designers work and I am often challenged and inspired by it. I also like to see the unique spin other designers add to their personal designs. To some degree we as designers are always recycling old ideas so I’m not overly afraid of being influenced.
 

Pattern available here http://www.etsy.com/shop/AmandaLilleyDesigns?section_id=7912458

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
Knitting has changed so much over time, what is now considered advanced was once the norm. I used to have a wonderful old black and white photograph hung on my wall showing a group of small children knitting socks for their family. It always made me smile as for them it was less of a science and more of a natural art. With that in mind it sometimes seems a little silly that designers must include directions like “slip marker”. On the flip side, I have been teaching knitting for some time and I still get joy from seeing a beginner knitter suddenly “get it”. If explaining in depth will encourage a beginning knitter to stick with it I am happy to write detailed patterns.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
Occasionally I will use a test knitter but most of the time I do my own test knitting. Often times it is in the test knitting that I discover how to improve a pattern and work out any quirks.

Did you do a formal business plan?
No I did not, sometimes I think I should have one and other times I think it’s not always easy to put creativity in a box.

Do you have a mentor?
I have been mentored through many wonderful books from all of the great knitters that have gone before me. I have learned the most from Barbara Walker, Mary Thomas, Elizabeth Zimmerman, and Jacqueline Fee.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No I don’t but I often wish I did, for me the fun is to design, it’s what I love to do.  I sometimes get a little frustrated when forced to stop the whole process to take care of other things.  I’m sure there has to be an easier way.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
For me, the Internet has been a lifeline, 90% of my pattern sales are through the Internet. Also when I teach weekend retreats most of the attendees are Internet contacts. I used to own a small brick and mortar shop and find that around the clock Internet sales are far less restricting.

Do you use a Tech Editor?
Yes, I do.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I work at home and all too often life and work seems to merge into one, with two small children it’s often easier to work later at night while they sleep.

How do you deal with criticism?
I don’t think it’s possible to please everyone all of the time, so I try not to take anything too personal, mostly my feedback has been positive but I’m always willing to listen to new suggestions.  

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
It’s still a work in progress, and it has taken about 4 years to get to where I have a steady something coming in.  

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
I would encourage anyone that has a love for knitting to pursue a career in it. With every new project you learn something new. Seek advice often and constantly challenge yourself!

Pattern available here

KnitTrade 2011

I spent last Sunday at the industry trade show run by the Gemmell sisters of Cabin Fever Fame. It's a trade show that caters to the many yarn shops outside the Toronto area. You can see the details here on their website.

Julia Grunau of Patternfish started the day off with a talk to the various store owners about the future of PDF patterns in the retail portion of the industry. It was very interesting to hear the different points of view. Some owners are eager to move their customer towards purchasing their patterns this way and eliminating the amount of work that it takes to handle pattern leaflet sales and others have a client base that is not Internet savvy and feel they need paper patterns to drive yarn sales. Some owners felt that there is a big difference between the urban and rural shops. Some felt it was an issue of the age of their customers. There were also varying opinions on the topic of yarn shops printing patterns for their customers and applying a surcharge for that service. Some saw it as the way of the future and others said that they would never consider offering that option to their customers. Owners varied widely on the issue of having a computer available for customers to use.

I got a ride up with a vendor agent, Mary Pat. She was representing Opal sock yarns and Briggs and Little. I assisted with the setup and end of day packing as way of thanking her for giving me a ride.

I only managed to get 2 pictures before my camera batteries gave out.

Communication with Commentors

I'm very happy using blogger. The fact that it is free is important to me. The one drawback it has is that I can't respond directly to comments. I've been told that only the blogs that have fees provide this feature. With Blogger I get an email telling me a comment is there and I click a link to see it and publish. I always feel a little uncomfortable thinking that someone who took the time to comment may feel ignored when that is truly not the case. The emails appear with a non-reply address. Occasionally when I've tried to find a way to contact a commenter I can find an email but that seems to be very infrequent.  

So to respond to some past comments, I really liked the suggestion about adding links to specific patterns in my designer interviews and I've started doing that as much as possible. I hope that it is proving useful to my readers.

To the person who asked me to email them back regarding research, you can reach me by going to the email link on my profile, which appears on the about me page in blogger.

An Interview with...Donna Druchunas

 














Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.


You can find Donna here.

Where do you find inspiration?

Everywhere. I have so many ideas, I have a special notebook to record them all because I find that I get creatively blocked by having too many ideas, not by having too few. It's like a log jam and if I can't get it under control, it just overwhelms me. I get inspiration from yarn and nature and fashion and books and movies and travel ... you name it! I find life incredibly inspiring most of the time.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Hands down, lace. I became addicted to lace after I learned how to knit it during my research for Arctic Lace and studying more for Successful Lace Knitting. There's so much variety in lace knitting that I never get bored. And after I finally learned, I had to agree with the many knitters who told me "it's easier than cables." 

How did you determine your size range?

I size garments according to publishers' requirements. 

Pattern available here

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I love to look at other designers' work. Because most of my own designs are based on traditional knitting techniques, garments, and accessories updated for modern knitters, I don't feel threatened by looking at other designers' work. I feel that it feeds into my creativity and helps me know what's going on with fashion.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I don't do too much for beginning knitters. But I don't really understand the concept of "dumbing down". There are many different ways to present information and many different ways to learn. So I don't think one type of pattern is "dumbed down" more than another because it is more verbose (or terse), or has charts (or doesn't), or has extra information on techniques, and so on. I will admit, however, that I sometimes get frustrated when American knitters are timid about just diving in and figuring things out. In all of my travels around Europe, I have never found that same trait. European knitters seem less afraid to make things up, and more willing to just fudge and fix things as they go. 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

Right now I have about a half dozen knitters helping me because I'm working on a book and I have some other submissions due. When I'm not working on a book, with 20-some projects due all at once, sometimes I can handle all of my own sample knitting.

Did you do a formal business plan?

Sort of. I have a "right brain business plan" (http://www.rightbrainbusinessplan.com/) which is much more visual than a traditional plan. But I'm working on growing my business now, and I will be developing a more formal business plan in the future. Mostly to help maintain my sanity. I find that I am much more relaxed when I have a plan on paper. (Even if it's a plan from which to deviate.)

Do you have a mentor?

Yes. Deb Robson at Nomad Press is my informal mentor. She's the publisher of several of my books and a wonderful editor. She also is a great friend. I'm fortunate to be able to work with her. (Hi Deb!)

Pattern available here

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

Not really. I'm always learning more about how different authors, teachers, and designers run their business and I'm always open to new business models. In the past I treated my own business more like moonlighting, because I always had a full- or part-time job on the side. I recently got laid off and that spurred me to decide to take my business more seriously in the future. 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I could not do business without the Internet. In fact, I'm not sure I could live without the Internet any more. 

Do you use a Tech Editor?

YES! Any designer or pattern writer who does not use a tech editor is asking for trouble.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

I don't. 

Pattern available here

For more help making these socks, a simpler color design of the same sock is covered in Donna's online Knit Sock Workshop on Craftsy, and people can get a 50% discount with this link.http://www.craftsy.com/ext/DonnaDruchunasBlog

 

How do you deal with criticism?

I don't. 

Seriously, I do appreciate constructive criticism from my readers and friends and colleagues, but I get terribly upset if I receive negative emails from readers and I don't read my book reviews on Amazon, etc. I get sick to my stomach and I have to take a day off and read a novel or get drunk. 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Quite a while. As I said, I've usually had a full or part-time job on the side. But for several years a while back, I supported myself completely with knitting related work. A big chunk of my income at that time came from tech editing. After a while that work got so stressful -- people email you years after you finish editing a book with questions - that I went back to my telecommuting day job in the computer industry for a few years.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Follow your bliss. Don't quit your day job (until you're

sure

sure you're ready). Be sure you want to get into this as a business. Your passion does not have to be what you do for money and your hobby might be ruined if you turn it into a job. So if you're happy making money flipping burgers or writing computer code or seeing patients and you love knitting as a hobby, more power to you!

New Pattern - The Mary Westmacott Shawl

I wrote a little bit about this pattern a few weeks ago in this post. The bottom up construction really appeals to me. Each right side row shortens by 4 stitches making the work feel as though it is speeding up the closer you get to the end. 

The stitch pattern for this shawl is easy to learn because of its strong visual nature. It utilizes sections of reverse stocking stitch to delineate each leaf pattern. It’s completely charted to make the transitions simple to follow as each section decreases. A center pattern panel shifts the decrease columns out from the mid way point to make it a little prettier than the standard form of triangle shawl construction.

The yarn I used has a little silk and cashmere so this is an absolute pleasure to wrap around my body. You can find the pattern here.

New Pattern - The Pamela Creegan Keffiyeh

This pattern has just been released. You can find it here. It was something I knit for myself with no intention of publishing. The yarn was purchased to go with a pair of gloves. At the time I was knitting it I got  interested in doing eyelets on the edges of shawls and scarves to allow for easy and even placement of fringes. While I was working on it someone asked when I would have the pattern up for sale so I decided I would have it edited and published. I have noticed how appealing a simple project is to experienced knitters. We all need the TV and commuting projects. Of course novice knitters also want to work on projects like this one as well. The yarn is a very soft alpaca,but you could easily substitute as wool in the same weight with a tweedy texture to get the same look. It's available from 3 different yarn companies in different locations.

My husband does my photography and he really didn't like the photo above, what do you think? He thinks it's too busy. I like it as that's the way I've been wearing the scarf. When winter comes I'll wear it with the matching gloves with the point at the front.

An Interview with...Joji Locatelli

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.  

You can find Joji  here and here on Ravelry.


Where do you find inspiration?
I love to see other designer’s collections.  I love to see what is in fashion and sometimes convert that into a hand-knit sweater pattern.  I haven’t designed too many patterns, but almost all of them were inspired in other sweaters that I love.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I love simple stitches: stockinette and garter stitch… To make things more interesting, I try to use unusual constructions and shapes.
 

How did you determine your size range?
Unless the kind of garment is not appropriate for all sizes, I try to grade all my patterns from 30 to 60.  There was a T-Shirt that I designed for a Yarn Company and they needed the pattern to be shorter, so I graded it only up to size 50… But otherwise, I try to have the widest size range possible… Though it sometimes means so much more work!!!!
 

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
Oh no! I look a lot at other designer’s work and I am DEFINITELY influenced by their work.  I don’t think there is anything wrong about that.  I try to make my original work from scratch though and it always ends up being very different from the original piece that inspired it.  But I would be lying if I said that I do not look up to the greater designers…   For example, I wish I had Ysolda’s brain!
 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
I have never heard of that… Let me google it! OK, so I think I had to learn to simplify and clarify my patterns in order for people to understand what my instructions are about.  I don’t think there is nothing wrong about that, but it sometimes is somewhat limiting (is that a word in English?)… For example I occasionally think: “Oh! I could do a sweater on the bias and then add a frill and then… No, wait!  How will I write that into a pattern that someone can understand?” When I learned to knit, I had to learn a whole new knitting vocabulary, since English is not my native language.  I found my way through the instructions and I never needed to have everything absolutely detailed and explained.  But I think that since people are now investing a good deal of money in their patterns, they want to be sure that they will understand everything and there is no room for mistakes or “guessing”.
 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I knit all my samples, and very often, my mother knits my sleeves for me… I call her my “Sleeve Master”. I do not (yet) pay my test knitters to do this for me.  I am very lucky and people usually offer themselves to test-knit my patterns once I finish them, so I try to pick at least one tester for each size. This means that usually, about 12 testers work on my patterns when they are finished. I do pay a technical editor (which is great!  I love you Kate!) to revise them before they are released.
 

Did you do a formal business plan?
I don’t think there is anything “formal” in my life…  Much less a business plan!
 

Do you have a mentor?
No, but I am looking for one.
 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No, but I should…
 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I wouldn’t even have a business if it wasn’t for the Internet. Living in Argentina really makes everything harder and more complicated!  Ravelry opened a whole new world of opportunities for me and the Internet audience has been really great and supportive.  Thank you everybody so much…
 

Do you use a Tech Editor?
Oh, I answered this before… But yes, I do and she is great. She can really deal with my anxiousness in a very awesome way!
 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I do have a steady job at my LYS, so I cannot design full time.  But I give my designing job as much time as I can! Being a mother of two small boys is also very demanding, and I try to make sure I don’t neglect them. Designing can be very addictive and I need to put my self some limits!
 

How do you deal with criticism?
As any human being, I get sad when someone criticize my work…  I try to take it in a constructive way and learn from my mistakes… But yes, it kind of makes me sad…
 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I cannot support myself with my designing work yet.  But I plan to be a millionaire!!!! Hahahahaha
 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Go for it!  Definitely! I am a retired physician who decided after 2 years of working as a doctor that life could get better than that. I didn’t like my career, it really made me sad.  And after my sons were born I made everything I could to earn a living doing what I love the most: knitting.  I have done a lot of things.  And I currently have a lot of “small jobs”, all fiber related.  And I proved that it IS possible!  You can do it!

How to Style the Pinstripe Vest

I have a vest pattern in the current issue of A Needle Pulling Thread. I just got my issue in the mail, when I checked the website it had not yet been updated. 

Carla, who is the publisher asked me how I thought it should be styled so I sent her the picture above. They went with a more simple styling than I would have, which is probably because I tend to be a little overdressed. At least that's what my husband is always telling me! 

I think my suggestions would have been inappropriate on the model that they used so I'm very happy with the result. It is interesting how age impacts personal style. What looks great on the young can appear a little unfinished on someone older. The model is young and their styling looks fresh on her. I also really liked that they left the shirt un-tucked to highlight the vest point. I have knit the vest for myself in a slightly different variation. I will probably wear it with a red bag to highlight my red glasses with either pearls or silver jewelery, gray trousers and ballet flats.

I was worried that I didn't have control over the styling and about how it would turn out, but that's just part of the business. Many of my professional designer friends tell me that they are on occasion very unhappy with the styling approach that publications take to their work. On some occasions they have been absolutely thrilled and felt that the stylist came up with something even better than they imagined.

Designer readers: what has your experience been with this? Please feel to post comments. Thank you