Hattitude and Plagiarism

Photo TROMBONE© Chris Johnson from Dreamstime.com

I've noticed that people are often accused of plagiarism in the knitting world. I wonder if it's more common than in the literary world?

Several years ago I was teaching a workshop class for a hat design that most of my advisers said was too complex to do as a pattern. I ran the class at my guild the DKC and at my LYS Village Yarns. I called it Hattitude. Recently one of the previous students approached me with a copy of Cathy Carron's new book of the same name. She came to me just as I was about to start teaching so we only spoke for a moment but I got the impression that she was upset on my behalf feeling that I had been ripped off in some way. I later googled Hattitude and got 107,000 hits.

I've read a number of posts on Ravelry where people feel that their original idea has been stolen and they are angry.

I don't feel that way at all. I look at everything! art, fashion, nature, craft, the Internet and every other possible source that might fuel inspiration. I know that my memory is faulty and that while I won't remember the source it all gets muddled up in my brain and pops back out in a different format. I think of it like music all the notes are the same but are placed in an unique order. Or writing a novel ...all of the letters and words already exist but have been rearranged to make something new.

I also feel that if it's a good idea someone else is also just as likely to see that good idea as I am.

So lets not assume plagiarism or suspect it has happened. Everyone out there working in the knitting community all sees the same stitch dictionaries, the same books and magazines. There are only so many ways to wrap knitted fabric around the human body so of course some standard silhouettes will be used over and over again. The Internet is also bringing us contact with Knitters all over the world and that's going to have an impact as well. Lets not assume that anyone is trying to steal our ideas and realize that they are on their own creative path that might just intersect with our own in some way.

Lady in Waiting (or always have an easy knitting project ready to go)

This is the first day I've not been to the hospital. My Dad had his surgery last Sunday after falling on the previous Friday morning. My sister and I have been everyday. We've realized we can't keep that up so we are now going separately on alternate days. Unfortunately he is in a hospital in the far east end of the city and I live in the west end so the commute has been a major time suck.

Tomorrow my good friend Wanda will be driving me there and if things go well we will go out afterwards for dinner and a movie. Last Sunday I had brunch out with a group of friends and when I got to the hospital later I realized it really is true that you need to distance yourself for a least short periods of time, after having decompressed with them I really felt recharged and as though I had more resources to deal with the situation.

Last year after our first hospital experience with him I kept an outfit on a hanger at one end of my closet so that I could always get dressed at a moments notice if we got another emergency call. I never thought to make sure I would have knitting as well. This time I was just about to start a new knitting project so I grabbed that and took it with me. I did the swatches while sitting with him waiting for the surgery. Unfortunately I could not deal with working out the numbers for the sample. Instead I decided it's time for a simple project so I'm now working on what my husband has dubbed the Lady in Waiting Scarf. It's one step up from a plain garter stitch pattern and I had to put markers in to keep track of a K1, P1 row!!!!!!

Ouch, It's amazing how being stressed knocks out basic intellectual capabilities. I even messed up on the K1, P1 rows. I can tell my eye was looking for something cheerful. I pulled a solid orange and variegated pink, orange and yellow yarn out of my stash to work on. It will be a long scarf that can be wrapped around your neck more than once.

I sent 3 interview requests out today so I hope to get back to posting on the blog this week and will post an interview if anyone gets back to me by Wednesday.

An Interview with ...Stefanie Japel

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Stefanie here http://stefaniejapel.com/ and here http://www.ravelry.com/people/Stefanie

Where do you find inspiration?

I find inspiration by thinking about what's lacking in my closet! I usually create patterns for things that I'm knitting for myself or for my daughters. When I'm working on a book or pattern booklet, I think about one main concept, and then try to come up with offshoots of that main idea. My end goal (when working on a book or booklet) is to have a set of designs that create a collection. The designs share some similar features or a commonality of concept.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I'm known for designing garments that are knit all in one piece from the neck down to the hem. I prefer to design raglan sweaters because I think that they fit better than sweaters knit in pieces and because I like being able to try on my knits as I go. I also have just found a real love of lace knitting. I've recently designed several shawls. I wouldn't have pictured myself as a "shawl person" but now that we live in the South West, I'm into little knits that I can take on and off as the weather changes. It's really not cool enough here to justify a whole wardrobe of sweaters.

How did you determine your size range?

When I wrote my first book, Fitted Knits, I started most garments at a 32 inch bust and sized them from 48 to 54" bust. I determined that based on the size range that is typically requested when designing for magazines. When I wrote my second book (Glam Knits) I tried to size most of the sweaters to 54" bust measurements because i wanted to accommodate a larger range of sizes. I've actually received requests from some smaller women to even include more sizes on the smaller end of the spectrum...so if I do a third book, I'll probably even do a wider range of sizes.

Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I do look at other people's work. I think it's important to have an idea of what's going on in the industry and what the trends are. I tend to stick to my own sense of style, so I'm not worried about being overly influenced by another designer's work.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

This debate has been going on for years in one form or another. A few years ago, the debate was over whether there were too many patterns for novelty yarns, then too many patterns with big needles...then too many free patterns. It's always something. I really think that there's room for everyone. For every knitter there's a particular style of pattern writing that speaks to them. I think that people should be free to knit, write, and design the way that they want to. If a large number of knitters are requesting simplified patterns, designers will accommodate them. At the same time, I don't think that every designer should be forced to write simpler patterns.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I currently have three knitters that I call on at various times to help me complete projects. It's been hard for me to find knitters who take sample knitting seriously, so I keep my list very small.

Did you do a formal business plan?

I don't have a formal business plan. My business model has recently changed dramatically with the opening of my online knitting classroom (http://stefaniejapel.ning.com/). I've set up several goals for myself, and I do have long-range plans. It's been difficult for me to stick to a set timeline, because I've got two babies at home. One just turned two in January, and one is a newborn. I'm still trying to figure out how my days are going to work. Once I can get a grasp of exactly how many working hours there will be in a given week, I'll be able to be more specific about a timeline and what I think I can accomplish.

Do you have a mentor?

I have several people that I look to as mentors (though they may not even realize it!) I've been very lucky to sign on with the Stitch Cooperative (http://stitchcooperative.com/) are a group of women designers and businesspeople. They have been invaluable as a sounding board. It's been great to have a group of people to work with in getting my ideas out there.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

Because my business grew so organically on its own, I haven't really emulated another business. I started out as a blogger in 1999 and things just grew for me out of that. If I had to choose a business idol, it would be Jennifer Hansen of Stitch Diva Studios. Jennifer is a brilliant businesswoman.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

Without the Internet, I'd have no business! I started online, my first patterns were published online, my shop is online, I teach online...everything is online!

Do you use a Tech Editor?

I do. I think that one needs another person's eyes on the math, and even on the formatting and writing, just to make sure that everything makes sense and looks as good as possible.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

This is a really hard question. Before my daughters were born, I could just knit all the time, be online all the time, and go to all of the conferences and shows. But now, I really don't WANT to be online all the time, and I don't WANT to be away from my kids every weekend. I try to work late at night after they're asleep, and during nap times. I never want to ignore my kids in order to pay attention to what's happening on my computer.

How do you deal with criticism?

I hate to admit this, but I don't take criticism well. I tend to take negative comments really seriously and very personally. I think that because I love knitting so much, I tend to fall in love with my garments and so it's like some one's bad-mouthing a friend of mine. I totally ignore my Amazon.com book reviews because I think that people are so much more harsh online where things are pretty anonymous than they'd ever be in person. If I *do* run across a critique, I read it and then let it sit for a while before responding if it's something that needs a response. If it's not something that needs a response, I tend to just let it lie. I really am not a person who's going to get into a big public online argument.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I decided to go into knitting full-time when I was pregnant with my first daughter. Fitted Knits had already sold 25,000 copies, and I was doing pretty well with online pattern sales. At that time, I'd been designing part - time for about 8 years.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Before you sign any book contract, hire an agent.

The Blog will be Quiet

I'm dealing with a family crisis.

My 84 year old Father has had a fall and a broken hip and will be hospital for a while. He has dementia and is very confused when my sister and I aren't there to soothe him. I expect that I won't be posting (other than posts that are already scheduled) until we get past this. My sister has to go to work so I will be at the hospital every day. The good news is that since I no longer work for someone else I'm able to do this rather than suffer trying to work during the day and deal with this after working hours. I'll be back posting once we get past this.

An Interview with...Marnie MacLean

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Marnie here http://www.ravelry.com/people/Marnie and here http://marniemaclean.com/

Where do you find inspiration?
I don’t think I have a particular source or sources of inspiration beyond simply coming up with things I want to wear and/or things that fit a particular submission guideline. There are patterns that are utterly functional, that I made because I needed something to fit the bill, like my Hair Apparent pattern. But often, I’ll just start sketching a silhouette or detail that seems interesting and build off of that. Frequently, I don’t know how all the details of a garment will turn out until I start working them.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
If pressed, I’d probably choose lace as my favorite technique, but, in reality, I like whatever is going to suit the project I’m working on. I’d say I am as much a process as product knitter and actually working stockinette, and cables, and color work and lace are all fun for me.

How did you determine your size range?
I currently offer, in most of my patterns, about 12 sizes in 3”/7.5cm increments. It’s a constant challenge to offer a wide range of sizes without making the pattern so long and full of variables that it’s hard to follow. I chose my sizes based on the available standard measurements that I am able to find and what I hear from customers. For instance, there are very few patterns available for older children who are generally larger than the largest child size but not yet adult sized. Adding a few sizes that are a little smaller than the standard smallest adult size will generally fit these individuals.

Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I’m not even sure how I could avoid looking at other designers’ work. I’m active on ravelry, many of my friends are designers, many more are active knitters, and I occasionally pitch in behind the scenes at Twist Collective, so I am always aware of things going on in the knitting community, even if I don’t intentionally seek out other designers’ work. But I don’t really see that as a problem. Unless one is designing really edgy art pieces that sacrifice functionality for form, it’s pretty hard to be completely original. Most designers are inspired by things they see on the street, in their closet, in movies, in books, and anywhere else clothing can be found. Designers may come up with unusual twists on one aspect of a garment, such as construction, or embellishment or stitch pattern, but the rest of the piece will often be some mix of standard design elements and shapes. This is not for lack of creative spirit but more a matter of keeping the finished product usable and wearable and flattering.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I’ve heard this term used but never in any consistent way. One person might call a very elaborate and verbose pattern “dumbed down” because it spells out every step in order to avoid any confusion. Another might use this term to describe patterns that are intentionally as simple and easy as possible even at the expense of a better technique. For instance, someone may opt to have a person bind off and sew instead of graft a seam, because most beginners are going to find that method easier to do. Neither of these seem like a bad thing to me.The question probably comes down to customer expectations. There was a time in history when a knitter could figure out what the designer wants or how to do a technique, on her own or she could pen a letter to the publisher, and hope for a reply some weeks or months later. Designers were also limited by printing costs so many patterns became highly cryptic in order to fit the space provided. These days, a customer need only track down the designer on ravelry or email and they can have an answer, often within a day. And with PDF downloads, designers have unlimited space to include whatever information might be useful. While this puts a greater onus on designers for support, it’s also the reason why designers are able to self publish and some even make a decent living at it. In the end, I see no controversy. I make my patterns as detailed and complete as possible but I also happily include techniques that may be out of the skill set of some of my potential customers. My goal is to address as many questions as I can in the pattern so there are fewer reasons for customers to contact me and I’m always careful to outline exactly what people need to know before buying a pattern. That may seem “dumbed down” in comparison to patterns that were published in the 1930s but I also suspect my customers find it easier to get the expected results.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
At this point, I do everything myself. I do hire tech editors to review my patterns before publishing, but the rest I do myself. I think there’s a trade-off to hiring a sample knitter to work up a pattern you have never knit. On the one hand, it’s a great way to get an initial dry run on your pattern, but on the other hand, you’ve lost the opportunity to improve the pattern as you work it yourself. I sometimes plan my entire pattern before the swatch has dried, and make absolutely no modifications as I go, but this is very rare. I feel like I would lose a certain part of the design process if I didn’t knit the piece at least once.As for testing knitters, while I would love to be able to have everything test knit in several sizes, I feel strongly that I shouldn’t hire anyone to do work for me whom I cannot pay. Until I have a bigger budget, I do without test knitters, despite the many generous offers I get from people willing to do so for free.

Did you do a formal business plan?
So far, designing is only a side job and while I take it very seriously, I don’t have any formal business plan in place. In truth, I’m a little worried that I’d realize just how poorly this job really pays me per hour, and that might be a little discouraging. That’s not a good reason to fore go a business plan but that’s one of the things that holds me back.

Do you have a mentor?
I never had a mentor and honestly, I don’t learn as well working with a mentor as I do studying things on my own. One of the reasons I post so many tutorials on how I’ve come to do things is because I wished that sort of information had been available to me when I was learning and I hope that others will find it useful as well.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
While I occasionally publish in books I work almost exclusively on patterns that are sold via the Internet, either through self publishing or through online knitting magazines. I feel very strongly that had I started designing before the Internet, I would never have become a designer. With no formal design training and having never knit a piece from a pattern, I had a lot to learn about grading and writing that simply would not have happened had I simply tried to submit to a print magazine. It would have been terribly discouraging for me to submit, wait for a response, and possibly face a long string of rejections. And even had I received an acceptance I might possibly have to work with an unfamiliar yarn on a tight deadline. I just don’t know that I would have ever built the skills needed to make that a fun prospect.

Do you use a Tech Editor?
Yes, though this was a lesson hard learned. If money and time were no object, I would redo all my old free patterns, standardizing them and having them professionally tech edited, but even if the patterns are very inexpensive to edit, time and money spent reworking those patterns, will never generate any additional revenue so they remain forever at the bottom of the queue.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I’m very careful not to over commit myself, which leaves me flexibility to consider last minute opportunities and time to knit for fun or for self-publication. Generally, I’ll take on no more than one or two designs per season, which means I’m not as prolific as many of my peers but I avoid burn out.

How do you deal with criticism?
I’m your classic people pleaser and even on my best days, criticism can get me down a little but I value it as a learning opportunity as well. No one is perfect and mistakes happen. Criticism is what led me to make tech editing a regular part of the designing process. Criticism has helped me realize that greater size support within my patterns is important. Criticism has helped me to better standardize my patterns and improve my photography and pattern layouts. I’m lucky that I have friends who design as well and who I can use as a sounding board. They will root me on when I’m feeling down but also gently urge me to consider useful feedback and implement it.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I don’t design full time and having just done my taxes; I can assure you that I won’t be quitting my day job any time soon. I love knitting and I love designing and while there’s something to be said for doing what you love, I wonder if I would love knitting less if I were always trying to crank out one more design so I could pay the mortgage. I’m not dismissing the idea out of hand, but I love my other job and it’s nice to be able to take a breather from knitting if I need to.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Designing, as a career, is a lot like gardening. You do a lot of work up front that may take a long time to show and if you haven’t done it before, there are a lot of variables and chances for mistakes, but what you do when you are planting those first seeds will impact you down the line. Giving away your hard work, being rude to customers, failing to meet deadlines or not communicating with publishers, will all have an impact on you as your business grows. Luckily, there are some great online resources and mentoring programs available. Try to take advantage of any of them that you can, ask questions and be open to feedback. There are no universal rules and most problems and mistakes can be addressed but if you strive to be professional even before you feel professional, you’ll serve yourself well, make the process less stressful and set a solid foundation for years of designing in the future.

Yarn Substitution - How to Substitute Like a Pro

When I first learned to knit the Internet didn't exist. Pattern support meant that the yarns in your LYS had one or two patterns written specifically for that yarn but often there were great older patterns in the store that did not have the corresponding yarn in stock. I often couldn't afford the suggested yarns even if they were in the store. Yarn substitution has now been made easy with resources like Ravelry and most Knitters buy yarn and patterns independent of one another.

If the yarn of your chosen pattern is not available, is too expensive, doesn't come in a colour you like, is too scratchy or is a gift for someone who won't hand wash it carefully......or you have any other reason for using a different yarn you can easily find an appropriate replacement.

Assuming that you want to closely mimic the original designers yarn choice the rule for yarn changes are to pick an yarn that knits to the same gauge. Next you should consider the fiber, knitting a pattern with many cables in cotton when wool was used originally could result in a garment that stretches with its own weight long past the hem length on the original pattern. It's generally a good idea to stay in the same category of yarn, for example animal versus plant based fibers until you are more knowledgeable about knitting but if allergies are prompting the substitution ask more experienced knitters for their input. Within these categories you still need to proceed with caution as only a swatch will tell you exactly what you are getting. Unfortunately if you don't have access to the original yarn it's always a guessing game. Checking that the needle size of both the original and the intended yarn is similar is often a good point of comparison as well. You can knit fuzzy mohair and a smooth wool on different size needles and get the same gauge but a totally different fabric will result. Substituting a different yarn can also result in a much improved result from the original design. I know of one case where a magazine changed the yarn due to editorial reasoning and that resulted in a garment no where near as beautiful as the original designers sample. Another designer told me that one of her garments was published with a different yarn credit as the original yarn had been discontinued. Once she sold the pattern rights she had no control over what the publication did. So what you see on the pattern may not be accurate.

Even yarn that has the same gauge and the same fiber content can vary widely in the resulting fabric after being knit. How the yarn was processed, spun and the knitting technique of the individual knitting it can impact the result. I just finished two hats both out of sock yarns knit on the same needles yet one hat appears to have a different row gauge. This was especially surprising as I also knit two neck warmers from the same two yarns that appear to be exactly the same size.

Much of a knitters knowledge of yarn substitution comes from years of knitting with different yarns and is a result of that long experience. Knitting a large swatch is a good way for you to verify that your yarn choice is appropriate for the pattern and in many cases may be better than the original yarn.



Using the Ravelry advanced yarn search http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search?advanced=1 allows you to do your search in so many different ways. To find yarns similar to Cascade 220 I searched by weight (12 weights) and fiber (25 categories) and found 1100 possible matches. After checking the buying options for a few I could easily go to my LYS or order an appropriate yarn on line. WOW what an amazing resource!

Transitions - becoming a full time Designer

March 5th was my last day at work. I feel totally elated to be viewing these days as "the first of the rest of my life".

My husband pointed out to me that I need to take some time and enjoy the transition so I spent my first week off knitting, reading, surfing the net and doing some clean up at home that I simply haven't had time for lately.

It took until Thursday before I realized how tired I was. My last two weeks of work ended up being very stressful and on my last day I couldn't get out of there fast enough.

Today I'm having a celebratory lunch with two of my closest friends and then it's time to get to work. (My new work that is). I have so many ideas for projects that I can't get them down on paper and onto my needles fast enough. Since I started publishing I've been working through and developing my design process. I've also been teaching myself software and learning how I best work to be most creative.



I'm fighting the urge to multitask as that's the way I usually have to live to get everything done but I know that total focus is the key to producing really good designs and patterns. Having said that I also know that jumping from one project to another often allows my brain time to work in the background and solve specific problems or invent solutions that I wasn't even looking for.


I have my next pattern almost completely written. I'm finishing the samples and then I need to sit down and clean up the pattern before it goes to my tech editor. I've also found that if I start working on a new project long enough to forget the previous one when I go back to proof read again I catch errors or poor wording that I missed while I was actively knitting and writing the first time. In a year I plan to reread these early posts and review what I've learned along the way.

An Interview with...Nicky Epstein

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Nicky here http://www.nickyepstein.com/ and here on Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/people/NickyEpstein She also has a new line of button and clasps available here http://www.nickyknits.com/buttons.htm and here http://www.nickyknits.com/clasps.htm

Where do you find inspiration?

Basically, from everywhere--Nature,museums, fabrics,art books,architecture,sometimes even in just a ball of yarn or the color of yarns.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Textural applique...although I enjoy most techniques,even intricate colorwork.

How did you determine your size range?

Traditional small, medium,large and x-large, depending on the design.

Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

Of course, I look at other designer's work but I'm not actively influenced by them--Sometimes 7th avenue designs will spark a knit design variation,shapes, lengths etc.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I don't like the term "dumbing down" and I do not practice the implications of the term. I try to make my designs "knitter friendly", and even with my more intricate designs, I know and I've been told by knitters, that they are easier to knit than they look.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I do most of it myself and usually do all the finishing, but because of, work load, deadlines, etc, I use about 3 dedicated and trusted knitters, sometimes more depending on the book and deadline.

Did you do a formal business plan?.

No, I operate on an informal and unstructured (sometimes frantic) plan.

Do you have a mentor?

I think I'm too old to have a mentor.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No, but I'd like to talk to Bill Gates.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

Pretty big, particularly in getting information out on my books and patterns, and enabling me to have my own website that keeps me in personal touch with the knitting community.

Do you use a Tech Editor?

Yes, I have a few tech editors that work on my books.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Knitting is a big part of my life...I work and play hard...and try to combine the two lifestyles.

How do you deal with criticism?

As a designer, you must expect criticism...I evaluate the source, take it in stride, and usually block out the extreme ones, both good and bad.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Still trying. It took over 20 years of very hard work to establish my reputation until it turned profitable.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Don't quit your day job...think outside the box...and develop a strong skin!

Real Women are Welcome in the Knitting World

This is a guest post (via email) from my dear friend of many years Wanda. Wanda's been knitting for over 10 years now and qualifies as having a real women's body. She is always beautifully dressed and very carefully chooses patterns to flatter her curves. She has been known to frog an entire sweater if it didn't live up to her exacting standards and re knit the yarn into something else that she is proud to wear.

Wanda says in her email "Something struck me today as I was looking at knitting patterns and I thought it might prove food for thought for a future blog for you. Knitting seems to me to be the only fashion -related activity that actually welcomes real women. When you look at knitting patterns you are more likely to see real women wearing the sweaters and not skinny, young models. Even the magazines more and more include models of all ages. On Ravelry, again women of all ages and sizes, proudly display (on themselves) their creations. Most designers now actually give thought as to how to make their knitting patterns include many sizes and designers like Sally Melville (in her most recent book in particular), have books out that teach you how to alter patterns to fit you (she has also given "lengthen and shorten here" instructions in her patterns for years). It's also through trial and error that many knitters learn about their body shape and what is flattering and what is not as we think about what is on our needles for a long time and actually look at it on us once it's finished. It's rather liberating to be involved in a fashion-related activity that welcomes a "one size does not fit all" world. It's food for thought (and I won't be insulted if you don't use the idea!). :-) "

The photos of the happy knitters came from the March 5th Knitting Daily and they have so much more to
share with us than the usual fashion shots.

An Interview with ...Beth Brown-Reinsel

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Beth here http://www.knittingtraditions.com/

Where do you find inspiration?

I am inspired by historic knitted pieces, by the colors chosen, the delicate motifs, the differences in garment construction, and knitting techniques you don't see often today. I love to visit museums to look at pieces in storage. Unfortunately, knitting doesn't make it out of storage often in most museums.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

When considering pure knitting pleasure, it's a toss-up between cabling and stranding with two or three colors. My favorite technique to teach is Twined Knitting.

How did you determine your size range?

It evolved from working with knitting magazines. I generally work with three sizes (kids, woman, man) for socks and hand wear, and 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) inches for sweaters. When I wrote Knitting Ganseys in the early 1990s, I sized the garments in two inch increments. Now I don't think that's really necessary.

Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

Because I draw from historic designs, I don't worry about inadvertently copying someone else's work. When I do find time to open a magazine, I enjoy seeing what others have created. Isn't it amazing... the variety of garments out there?

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I feel it is essential to have many levels of patterns because there are many levels of knitters. I don't "dumb down"; I state the level of each pattern. My patterns are teaching patterns. I add historical background whenever possible. There are almost always several photographs and lots of text included explaining techniques necessary in the pattern. I am hoping that my patterns elevate the level of the knitter.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I have two sample/test knitters right now who knit for me. I will knit up small things, but I farm the sweaters out because my hands can't take too much knitting at a time any more. A really good test knitter is an incredible asset.

Did you do a formal business plan?

Hmm... I did at one time, when I had my Internet business. I am in the process of writing up a new one, 10 years later, that will reflect my business as it is now. But it keeps taking a back burner to other deadlines.

Do you have a mentor?

I have had many mentors in the past. I don't really have one now. I think a mentor is someone we all need in all aspects of life.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No, and that's a shame. I think I must have missed out on a lot of information, by not doing so. I just plug along doing what I think will work and probably expend more energy than necessary. I guess it's not too late to find one!

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I remember when I was writing Knitting Ganseys (on an Apple IIe: 128k- had to save to disk every four pages typed) I kept hearing about this "Information Superhighway". Within a couple years (1995), I had a website and was selling my patterns, knitting tools, and yarns imported from England over the Internet, as well as by mail order. That was a huge leap. But now, it's an unimaginable leap: selling pattern downloads, doing all my correspondence by email, the potential for Internet based classes and meetings, the videos on You Tube, email marketing sites, my blog. I spend a huge part of each day on the computer.

Do you use a Tech Editor?

ABSOLUTELY. This is essential. My tech editor saves me many embarrassing moments with every pattern! She is worth her weight in gold! (Thank you Karen!)

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

This has been one of the huge lessons I am trying to learn. I typically work a run of 14 hour days until I can't bear to sit another minute, then go do something else for a few days until I can start the cycle all over again. I think that's called "Crash and Burn" and there's nothing balanced about it. At the present, I am trying to go to yoga/exercise class three times a week and it's helping a lot to even out my thinking processes and productivity. It also helps my temperament to get together with a friend for dinner at least once a week. Not that I actually do that consistently, but I am striving towards it.

How do you deal with criticism?

On a good day, I try to listen and appreciate where the other person is coming from, intuit what her needs are, and figure out how to meet those needs. I have come a long way from taking every cross thing said as a personal attack. I don't read any knit lists on the net that have the potential for conflict. Life is too short for criticism. There's barely enough time to say the good things to others.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Well, there's nothing like a separation and two kids to feed to light a fire under you! That's a hard question to answer since my Start Date could be one of many dates. Because I see myself as a teacher first and a designer second, I can say that I began teaching on the national circuit in 1989, and was separated in 2001, needing to totally support myself. Looking back, I really needed those 12 years (and the ten that preceded them) to establish myself as a teacher and designer while having the luxury of being partly supported by someone else. It's been hand to mouth many years, and I do not have a retirement set aside. I am turning 60 in a few years, and that is a huge worry for me. So supporting one's self can mean many things. Consider yourself lucky if you have a life partner helping with the bills and perhaps a former career where you were able to set aside funds for the future.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Be diverse. Know that you will likely not be able to support yourself in just one area, such as designing. Look into tech editing, teaching, Internet courses, creating knitting events, writing, selling yarn, etc. Secondly, live simply, keep your expenses down, and don't forget to pay into a retirement of some sort. And good luck!

The Flowered Topper

It's up! My latest hat pattern is here http://www.patternfish.com/patterns/5453

Is it shallow to be concerned about your appearance?

Art work from http://www.dreamstime.com/
I'm very focused on my clothing, knitting things to flatter me and fashion in general. I like to think of myself as a person with solid values (don't we all) so sometimes my concern with my outward appearance strikes me as shallow and slightly foolish.

I'm working on a talk I'll be giving about body image in the spring so this topic has been running around in my brain for weeks. I'm one of those people who mulls things over for far to long but then has the satisfying result of having solutions, answers or decisions pop into my head while I'm doing some totally unrelated thing. Today at lunch I realized that one of the most important things that comes to me from this focus is happiness. Wearing nice things makes me happy. Research shows that due to emotional contagion http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emotional_contagion me being happy isn't a totally selfish pursuit. If I'm happy I can make others happy.

I work in an office of mainly men. I get a lot of compliments on my clothes here especially on the amount of colour I wear. I work on Bay St. which is the heart of the financial district in Toronto. Most women in this industry wear all neutrals, black being the most common. Dark dull eggplant is risque so I'm a rainbow compared to the standard. One of the guys in my office takes great delight in calling me "pumpkin" every time I wear my bright orange suede jacket to work. The pun of the colour and an endearment totally cracks him up because I'm always teasing him I'm going to complain to H.R. about his inappropriate behaviour to women.

The other men in my office won't use post it notes in any other colour than the standard yellow - except for our CFO. He goes searching for post it's that match the colour I'm wearing when ever he gives me a note and says I should order more colours into the office for him to use. A few weeks ago he came back from a lunch time shopping trip and proudly showed me the stack of colourful golf shirts he just bought on sale. He announced that I was no longer going to be the only one in the office wearing a great colour as he plans to wear one every dress down Friday with his jeans to challenge my status as the only one here brave enough to wear colour. That made me laugh and it made me happy too!