Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Role Models and your Knitting



Self development guru's often talk about using people who are successful in the way that at you want to be as role models. I think I've done this a lot in my own life by looking at the behavior of others.When I had a job at a large corporation in a huge department of many people performing the same function and all making the same money I was struck by how some struggled from paycheck to paycheck while others seemed to enjoy an apparently different level of abundance in their lives. By asking carefully worded questions I was able to pick up a lot of financial tips (especially the what not to do kind) that I still live by today. 

When I was trying to lose weight I asked two of my thin friends how they kept  their slim figures as it seemed to be so effortless from my perspective. I got great strategies from both of them and found out that it wasn't effortless. Knowing that is part of the key to searching for your own approach in dealing with these dilemmas in life. 

I've also been struck by how less successful types will refuse any advice from people who have already accomplished what they themselves want. A unhappy single friend once told myself and and another married friend that we knew nothing about how to achieve a happy relationships because we both already have great husbands. Duh! That really shut the door on us giving any dating advice and she is still unhappily single today. Another told me that I know nothing about how difficult it is to save money because I have private income from my corporate career. Her income is approximately double what I earn yet I still have a larger retirement savings account and the ability to pursue an independent design career.

Knitting can be a metaphor for life for many of us. Watch your knitting friends and see how they deal with challenges. Do they give up at the first sign of trouble or do they take a course to learn new skills? Do they knit the same garter stitch scarf over and over and complain that they are bored of knitting? Do they explain away the successful projects of others as "well that's easy for you because....or do they ask for advice on how to achieve the same or even better results? Do they keep on trying new methods and refining their skills by practicing? The only way you get better at anything is to challenge yourself on a daily basis and that works for your knitting, your financial management and all other areas of your life.

Who are your knitting/life skills role models and what could you learn from them?

Monday, November 29, 2010

A South African Knitting Business


I came across an article  recently about Anna Loubser, a Knitter who is producing finished items for sale. You can find the complete article here and her website is here.

I see a lot of knitted items available at http://www.etsy.com/ as well as at various craft shows and events and sometimes think (only for an instant) maybe I should test that market as well. To be honest the thought of re-knitting the same item over and over does not appeal to me. I'm always onto the next creation before I can barely finish writing my patterns as it is.



Anna says "I have a group of eight women who’ve been knitting for me for the last two years. When we started, they were hesitant to do the difficult patterns, but now they challenge each other. They work extremely hard and take pride in what they do. We’ve grown together and I’m lucky to have them". 

She is producing a range of toys, home decor items, handbags and accessories. I wasn't able to find any prices so I'm not sure if these items are as expensive as the last knitting product business that I wrote about here. I do find it interesting that this is the second article I've found about this type of product based knitting business in the last month.
 

Friday, November 26, 2010

An Interview with...Melissa Wehrle



Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.




You can find Melissa here and here on Ravelry. You can see more of her designs here.




Where do you find inspiration?

Everywhere! Photographs, runway shows, shopping the stores, trend books, and nature. Because of the nature of my job, I am constantly surrounded by information and inspiration, knowing how to filter it all out into what is useful is the key.

What is your favorite knitting technique?

Hmm, that's a hard one. I suppose my favorite technique is more of a finishing technique than a knitting technique. I love the tubular cast on and bind off even though they take a little longer and a bit of concentration to work. Both leave such a nice clean edge! I also like 1 row buttonholes a lot.

How did you determine your size range?

I determine my size range on a design by design basis. If it's a no fuss design in a silhouette that looks good on everyone, I do a complete XS - 3X range. Sometimes, as a garment gets larger, the design just doesn't work well proportionally as in smaller sizes. In this case, I do a smaller size range. If a garment has quite a bit of ease or the stitch pattern just doesn't allow a standard size range, my gaps between sizes might be a bit bigger.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?


I do, but not for the purpose of being inspired or doing "research". It's always nice to admire other indie designers and when I have time, knit their patterns!

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

When writing a pattern, I try to make them as complete and easy to understand as possible. I also tend to design slightly more challenging knitting patterns because it is what I like. I am always willing to help a knitter out and direct them to different sources to find information if I can't provide the help they need. Dumbing down knitting patterns is really doing a disservice to knitters. Knitting should be about learning knew things and sometimes that means going through a little bit of a struggle. With some knitters a certain amount of hand holding is needed, but once it "clicks" it makes it all worth it!

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?


I have only had one design sample knit for me because I just didn't have the time, other than that, all of my designs are knit by me. It is hard to find sample knitters to trust and the ones I would trust are always too busy! Regarding test knitters, typically I don't test knit my patterns unless they are small projects. There are a few reasons for this. 

1. Since I work in the fashion industry and deal with different shapes and sizes of women on a daily basis, I know what will fit and what won't. 
2. Testing a sweater in 6 sizes can get a bit time consuming. 
3. Unless you provide the yarn to the test knitters, you never know what you are going to get. 
4. Sometimes test knitters will automatically fix problems without ever realizing it. 
5. A good tech editor is worth more than 7 test knitters.

I recently saw a very heated thread on Ravelry about test knitting and that some knitters expected everything in every size to be test knit. Again, a good tech editor is worth it's weight in gold and test knitters just don't catch what a good tech editor will. As long as the tech editor and the designer know what they are doing, excessive test knitting just isn't needed.

Did you do a formal business plan?

No, I'm just kinda flying by the seat of my pants here!

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

My first indie pattern happened because I posted it on my blog and other knitters requested the pattern. Without the Internet, I think it would have been harder for me to build up the confidence to submit to magazines and to get my work out there. Then when Ravelry came on the scene, my business jumped to the next level. A good amount of the visitors on my blog come over from links on Ravelry. When I decided to update my blog and purchase my own domain name, that also gave me a boost and a more professional space to show off my work.

Do you use a Tech Editor?

YES! A good tech editor is a must before releasing any pattern. They catch any math errors and revise any wording that may be confusing. While errata still creeps in occasionally (we're all human), having a tech editor look it over can eliminate a lot of headaches and pattern support in the end. When a knitter purchases your pattern, buys yarn, and invests time knitting it, it is only fair for them to expect a well written, error free (or 99% free) pattern.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Very carefully! I work full-time for a sweater manufacturer in addition to being a hand knit designer. It is very easy for me to get pulled into a never ending world of sweaters. Typically I work a full 8 or 9 hour day and then spend another 5 hours when I get home working on hand knit design.

Working so much easily causes burnout, so on the weekends, I try to stay away from the computer, relax, and enjoy doing as little as I possibly can - although knitting doesn't count!

How do you deal with criticism?

You can never make 100% of the people happy 100% of the time. This is just a fact of life, not only with knitwear design. Constructive criticism is one thing, then there are a select few that can be mean for whatever reason. I just ignore them the best I can.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Well, let's just say that I haven't quit my day job! I've made a decent amount from doing hand knit design part time, but I definitely could not live off of it.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Make sure that it is something that you really, really, really love. That you love it so much that you are willing to work really hard even when the money isn't really rolling in. It is a lot of hard work to get started doing something on your own, and as with any new business venture, a lot of love, time, and patience needs to be given to be successful.






Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Why are Knitters afraid to learn new skills?



I often get the feeling when I'm chatting with less experienced Knitters that they think I have some secret inborn talent that they lack. One told me once that I never seem to make any mistakes. I laughed at that and said "I make lots of mistakes you just never see them because I rip those things back out and either fix the problem or create something new". At the time I was obsessed with garter stitch sideways gloves that I was making with yarn leftovers every time I finished a project. I shared a failure with her, one of the pairs were unwearable because the yarn was too heavy and made what appeared to be clown gloves. We had a good laugh over that pair. 

That's one of the great things about knitting, often our materials are reusable so we can fix some mistakes. I think we all know this doesn't work well with sticky mohair but works great with smoother yarns. When I was first designing I often knit something, analyzed what I could do better, made notes and then ripped back and knit the improved version.

I think that's the secret talent I have. I'm not afraid to make mistakes so that has allowed me to push past my current abilities at every level and continue to improve my techniques while gathering vital knowledge about fit and fabric performance. 

Fear of failure often dominates Knitters. They don't learn more because they don't make mistakes because they don't push themselves to try to make things that they think are beyond their abilities. I'm a big believer in the saying that you learn more from your mistakes than you do from your successes. I think mistakes are inevitable and that while you make fewer mistakes as you gain experience that the unsuccessful projects are the most important things you will ever knit.

Monday, November 22, 2010

The Thrill of Ravelry



I've been fortunate to see a few of the garments knit from my patterns. Generally though I don't get to see them because since I started selling through Patternfish many of them sell across North America and in Europe. The first time I saw those sales on Patternfish I have to say it gave me a little thrill. I've heard other designers comment on how rarely they see photo's of their designs completed on Ravelry and even their best selling patterns sometimes are not represented. I suspect that the knitter who photographs their work and posts comments about the design might be a special subgroup in the demographics of knitters.

Recently a member of Ravelry PM'd me to say how much she liked one of my patterns and gave me a link to her photo's. She has given me permission to use her photo's so I've added some of them to my post. What really thrilled me however were her notes about the pattern. You can see them here.

I loved seeing the pattern done in a different colourway, and Cammie chose to knit a flower to use instead of a shawl pin and then adapted that pattern by using the picot cast off of the shawl. It was also great to read comments that confirmed that I had met my goals with this design, it was simple yet enjoyable to knit, used the yarn in a very effective way and elevated the level of a garter stitch project to be just a little more stylish.  

Cammie thanks so much for sharing!

Friday, November 19, 2010

An Interview with...Anne Kuo Lukito



Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 



You can find Anne here and on Ravelry here.



Where do you find inspiration?
Everywhere! Sometimes something just jumps in my head. Sometimes I hit "designer's block" and nothing comes to me. When I'm in need to find inspiration, I'll look at various things like the leaves on a tree, home improvement magazines, a piece of furniture, current events and fashion magazines. For example, Twister came to me during hurricane season when I was visiting my parents in Texas,  Spectacle was born out of inspiration from mid-century modern furniture design, and I was inspired by insects when I designed Cocoon.

   
What are your favourite knitting and crocheting techniques?
I can't really crochet. It just never "spoke" to me in the way that knitting does. I don't know if I have a favorite technique, but I do love the magic of it all. I love figuring out techniques that I haven't tried myself without referencing any books or tutorials. I love the magic of Kitchenering in pattern, the many ways you can work a reversible cable and figuring out unique ways to shape a hat or garment while keeping in pattern.

 
   
How did you determine your size range?
For garments like sweaters, I generally try my best to offer at least 5-7 sizes. For hats, I try for anywhere between 2 to 6. Sometimes I try to aim for more, but the design of the garment itself can limit the sizing range. Well, at least it limits the ease in which I can write the sizing.

     

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
We're all influenced one way or another. Fashion recycles and people often think of similar things independent of one another. I can't honestly say that something I saw last year, while forgotten in my immediate memory, does not influence me on another level. I do get inspired by other designers whether they are designers from the haute couture fashion houses or indie hand knitwear designers. I do make a point though, when I'm in a design mode, not to do pattern searches or look at other knitwear designers' work. If I think of something I that I want to do or am trying to come up with a name for the design, I sometimes conduct pattern searches to make sure that what I've come up with doesn't absolutely replicate something someone else may have done even if the idea came independently.


How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters and crocheters? 
I don't think that there really is a controversy. I think it just depends on each person preferences and the designer's writing style. Who is the audience one is writing for? The beginner? The more experienced knitter? If a designer's pattern is aimed at the more experienced knitter, it may not be necessary to explain how to turn and work a hem or how to work intarsia. While it may be nice to have some techniques included as part of the pattern instructions, I don't think it's always necessary, and I think that entirely depends on the designer's preferences, layout space, goals, etc.

Using my own patterns as an example, while I try to be as clear and descriptive as possible, I don't include things like Kitchener Stitch instructions. The reason that I choose not to include something like that is because most of my patterns are for more advanced beginners and beyond and the Kitchener Stitch is a technique that can be found in most knitting references and glossaries. However, for things that are less common or more specific, such as working a Kitchener Stitch in pattern in something like Pfeiffer Falls, I include more specific instructions. And for techniques such as sewing a non row-to-row mattress stitch, as in the shirring in the Liberation hats, I try to write photo tutorials on the techniques on my website. 





     

How many sample/test knitters and crocheters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I do most things myself. However, sometimes I do hire sample knitters. I currently have 2 that are more regular go-to sample knitters and and additional 3-5 that I've also used. Good sample knitters are a closely guarded secret by designers! ;) It's in their contracts that I always get dibs if I introduce and refer my sample knitters to other designers! ;)

        
Do you use a Tech Editor?
Absolutely! I think technical editing is a very essential part of putting out a knitting pattern, whether it's being published by a magazine or by myself. While we're all human and errors can still creep in, technical editors help really refine a pattern in ways that I would not be able to no matter how many times I edit it myself. It's always good to have a separate set of eyes to go over what you write. A newspaper does not go to print without fact checkers and editors reviewing the author's work, and neither should knitting or crochet patterns.

   
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Let me know when you find the answer to that one! When you are working on your own, everything kind of blends in together. I try to stay off my email, Ravelry, Twitter and Facebook for a few days once in a while. Most knitters understand that I'm not at my computer 24-7 and are very respectful of that.

   
How do you deal with criticism?
Like a grain of salt. Constructive criticism doesn't really doesn't bother me that much. It's how I learn. If it is a mistake of mine, I'll feel really bad that it was there in the first place and fix it. I don't get upset at the person doing the criticizing. I recognize that there are different strokes for different folks. I know that my patterns aren't for everyone for whatever reason....it might not be some one's personal style, the techniques used might seem to fussy for the knitter or the type garment just won't look good on the knitter's body type.

That said, it is hard to swallow sometimes if/when someone makes a negative public comment about the pattern when it has nothing to do with the pattern design or pattern-writing (i.e. when someone complains that it doesn't fit at all and that it's poorly calculated when clearly the knitter didn't check or get gauge). It hasn't happened to me in a bad way yet, but when I see those kinds of comments, whether it's about my patterns or about the patterns of my designer friends, I cringe a little bit and hope that other knitters will look carefully and see that it was an operator issue, not with the pattern itself. But in the end, I do brush it off, laugh at it a bit and not really think about it too much after that.

        
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Ha! What a funny question. I am certainly not making the big bucks with this design thing. Maybe one day, but it certainly is not happening right now.

     
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting and crocheting?

It's a blessing to do what you love. However, think carefully first about whether you'd want to make your hobby into a career choice. It's fun, but it's also challenging and hard. If you are going in to design, be prepared for rejection (I've got tons!), criticism, wear 100 different hats, and speed knitting on a short deadline (for publications). Also, if you are serious, joining an organization like the Association of Knitwear Designers as an Associate Designer can be a helpful place to start. If accepted, ask for a mentor -- you can ask a mentor questions that you might be afraid to ask, or don't want to ask in a public forum like Ravelry.


Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Business Courses



I've started going to free business seminars from the library. The first one was called  "7 Common Start Up Mistakes" that small business usually make. It was pretty interesting. The instructor specialized at one time in helping small companies through bankruptcy so he has seen a lot of failures. 

His list of mistakes are:


  1. No Start up Budget
  2. Lack of Business viability.
  3. Underestimating the amount of money required for start up and running your business.
  4. No basic business plan is developed.
  5. No marketing, advertising or PR plan.
  6. Poor management.
  7. Not understanding the difference between profitability and cash flow.

I learned a new term for what's going on in my business. It's called Start Up Losses. The good news was that I have done some things right. I don't have a start up budget but I do have income from another source. I did make a number of purchases of things I need to work before I quit my job and I've adjusted my lifestyle to live on much less money than I was spending when I was still working for someone else full time.  I did test my market a little before I made this my full time career by publishing a few patterns and seeing that they did sell.  I did do research and spoke to other people in my industry. My interviews are an ongoing form of mentor-ship for me as I move forward with this. I'm also very sure that profits (if any) will be small. So I don't see this as a get rich quick scheme, more as an engaging way to spend my time. I'm planning to take another session on developing a business plan so I'll deal with Number 4 later. I doubt that I'll do anything really formal perhaps just some goal setting type plans. Marketing is low on my goals list right now as my main focus is pattern development. I am starting to pursue teaching opportunities and will spend more time on that in 2011. As for poor management I'm so new to this that I have very little to manage other than my time! Cash flow is also not an issue right now but I am thinking about products I might retail or wholesale in the future. I'm thinking about knitting notions or yarn but I think realistically that would be a few years off.

I have noticed with my interviews that planning seems to be very low on the priority list of my interviewees.That tells me that I'm thinking about this kind of thing a little more than the average but I think that falls into the category of the saying "that and 50 cents ($3.99 in today's economy) will get you a cup of coffee". I have also started a small pro-knitters group that meets once a month and it has been a wonderful source of information and support. It has made me realize how all of us are so very isolated in this industry.