Three Dimensional Thinking for Knitters

I've been thinking about the difference between the way knitters and sewers approach fit and pattern customization for a long time. I wrote this post about it back in Dec 2012. I tried asking some knitters what they thought the difference was. It was clear from the responses that the knitter only group think sewing makes fit much easier. The ironic part is that sewers are sure knitting is much easier to fit due to the stretchiness of the fabric. I can tell you that my pattern drafting experience shows knit drafts are much simpler. You can do all sorts of things with cut and sew knit yardage which can't be done with woven fabric. Wovens require more seaming, more technical underpinnings, finishing and more fitting expertise.

I do realize that gauge and stitch multiples create trouble especially for the math phobic. However it is so much more fixable in knitting. We can tear back, but once you cut fabric if it's wrong you often can't fix it unless you have more fabric to re-cut. Which is why sewers make test mockups before cutting into very expensive fabric. I may have escaped this fear because my loose gauge forced me to rewrite the patterns I used when I was a beginner knitter and my lack of height meant I had to recalculate sleeve shapings in my early garments. I suspect my sewing influenced me as well in that I did not expect the patterns to fit me as written.

I suspect the difference in the education of each group has an impact as well. Fitting techniques start in beginner sewing classes, whereas in knitting it seems to come up much later in the learning process.

A designer friend told me her observation is "many knitters have a huge disconnect when they think about knitting as it relates to garments". I wonder if knitters are more likely to fall into the process/product categories. It is true we knitters make things which are outside of mainstream fashion. I make lace shawls knowing my non-knitting friends don't get it. When I took sewing classes students did seem to be more fashion focused when choosing their projects. I only took garment based classes. I wonder what my observation would have been if I tried quilting or other needle arts? 

I have come to one clear conclusion myself. I've become convinced that many knitters do not think three dimensionally when it comes to garments. Sewers come to this thinking much more quickly. Perhaps it's due to learning about darts and seamed shaping so much earlier on? What do you think?

An Interview with...Kari-Helene Rane

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Kari-Helene here and here on Ravelry.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/maddie-childrens-dress

Where do you find inspiration?
Often, my inspiration comes from knitting itself. My brain seems to analyze what I am working on and interpret and change and design from it as I go. Sometimes I am not quite sure how it happens! A design will just pop up in my mind and I have to quickly jot it down! I love looking at vintage knitwear and vintage fashion and draw a lot of inspiration from photos and illustrations. Other times I can find inspiration in very random things. Once I designed a jumper based on a picture of a field! 

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I am partial to a good cable. There is so much fun to be had with cables. There are endless possibilities of different combinations and I love how they affect the work. I use cables to manipulate shape, such as on the back of my Duchess Cardigan.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/duchess-4

How did you determine your size range?
I wanted to be able to appeal to a wide range of women but have decided to stick with what is mostly used in the commercial world, XS-XL.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I do not think there is anything wrong with being influenced by other peoples work. I do not approve of copying, but there's a long way from copy to influence. I believe we are all influenced by what is going on around us, consciously or not.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/chelsea-waistcoat

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
Before being asked this question I did not realize there was an ongoing debate on this topic. I am aware that some knitters need further explanations than others, but that is just how we are all different and what level of experience we are at. When Purl Alpaca Designs started I was still learning about pattern writing and over the years I hope and think I have improved my pattern writing. I will always attempt to explain as much as possible, but it does happen that I will have to make edits or changes to a pattern. I am always happy to help knitters struggling with one of my patterns, and will always answer emails, Facebook messages and tweets to explain. 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I have a list of about 10 with 3-4 that I use often. There is too much knitting for me to do it all.Tracy and I run Purl Alpaca Designs on our own and between us we have a lot of different task to keep on top of. Running a pattern writing/knitting business is unfortunately not just about knitting!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honesty-cardigan

Did you do a formal business plan?
Yes we did. In fact over the 8 years we have been working together we have done several. Also, at the beginning of every year we have a meeting where we sit down and plan what we would like to achieve in the year ahead. At the end of the year it is really good to sit down and look at everything we have done, and if there is something we have not, we can talk about why and how we would like to deal with this differently next year. 

Do you have a mentor?
At the beginning of my career I worked really closely with Andrew Jones of former Modernist, Max Mara and Marc Jacobs. He helped me a lot when learning about pattern writing and translating my designs into understandable patterns for others to follow. I can still ask him for help when I need it, but I find I can manage more and more on my own. I think it is important to never be afraid of asking for help. We improve our own work by talking to and listening to the advice of others. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/icon-dress

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
I think I have drawn on a lot of different designers and companies when deciding how to set up Purl Alpaca Designs, not only in the knitting world. When we started out, there were hardly any pattern businesses showing the finished product on their stands at exhibitions for people to touch and try on. To me, coming from a ready to wear background, this was an important part of our display and has proven very popular with our customers. 

Do you use a tech editor?
Yes, I do. She is wonderful and helps me a lot. We often have discussions about how to keep the design details intact when grading and it can lead to interesting challenges. I enjoy the maths involved in knitting, but it is essential to have someone there to make sure it all ends up right! 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/venus-coat

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I work from home and my home life and work life tends to float into one. I try to keep my working hours to normal working hours, but usually I will keep working on my knitting in the evenings. It is interesting when your hobby becomes your work how 8 hours are no longer a normal working day. I strive to take time off at weekends to enjoy time with my partner or play sports. I play Ultimate Frisbee competitively and will be competing for Norway at the European Championships this summer. It is important to me to stay fit and healthy as I believe this improves your ability to work efficiently when needed! 

How do you deal with criticism?
It depends where the criticism comes from! I always value constructive feedback from customers and other professionals and will as much as possible try to take it on board and make changes where needed. However, I am not always that good at taking criticism in other areas of my life. This is something I am working on. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/duchess-4

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Even though both Tracy and I have now been working full time with Purl Alpaca Designs for several years I would not say we are fully able to support ourselves on the business. We do take a wage, but it is not even near minimum wage. This is also something we are working on! 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Take your time. Do not expect to be self sufficient or rich over night. It is a slow process, but when you get it right it's a fantastic feeling! 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/olivia-coat

What’s next for you?

I am currently working on our new collection of patterns. We launch one collection every year of approximately 12 designs. We usually launch in September/October. We are also hoping on having our first retail unit before the end of the year! 

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/niobe-jumper

101 Socks

I was sent a e version of this book to review. The designs are from a group of  designers and some credit yarn companies instead of individuals. The book includes patterns for knitting, crochet and the Addi Mini Knitting Machine. 

The patterns don't list specific yarns however most descriptions are for standard sock yarns with wool and a little synthetic for strength.

The book describes itself as being for the beginner to advanced knitter and crocheter. The technique photos are very detailed  so the beginner has lots of support and the more advanced are likely to pick up some new techniques.

The publisher included this description:

"With seven techniques and 101 patterns, this how-to book provides detailed, clear instructions for knitting and crocheting colorful and artful socks. These projects cover a wide range of skill sets, from the beginner to the advanced knitter. You’ll learn, among other things, how to create sock heels in three different styles, knit with circular needles, knit from the toe up, and create felted textiles using your washing machine. A how-to primer on sock making is included for beginners, and size tables help you create socks that fit perfectly for all ages. Various sock styles include cable, stripe, and rainbow patterns, socks with fringe, pompons, and other embellishments, sport socks, slippers, socks with a “lodge” look, and even a dolphin motif."

There's a section on spiral socks.  Spiral socks are tube socks made without a heel and due to the pattern are very stretchy and fit a wider range of sizes.

I did find the e version a little difficult to negotiate. I often take knitting books from my library and I haven't run into this problem before. I don't think they are publishing an ebook version so that shouldn't be an issue for anyone buying the book.

Inspiration - Where Does it Come From? Part 3

I often find my inspiration coming from fabric garments.

I don't have an image for this one but the original was in an accessories shop sewn with three separate pieces of fabric gathered to one another. 

My knit version looks like this:

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tiers-of-lace

Only two tiers, but it has lots of increases to replace the gathers. The stitches almost double after the yoke and then more slowly in the body.

The first circle jacket I ever saw was like this:

It was sewn from patchwork denim. I eventually made two for myself, One was a circle sewn from a heavy knit fabric. The second was a square made from polar fleece. This silhouette has been interpreted in knit, crochet and fabric since then by many makers.

Later I knit this:

It's the lace weight version of this: 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pinwheel-cardigan

I saw this on Pinterest:

http://www.instructables.com/id/BOLERO-WRAP-super-easy-and-fast/

I knit this version and made a matching tank:

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lisa-neumann-shrug-and-tank

I expected to see other knit versions when I made it and I have. 

If you want to be inspired, try looking at retail, online at Pinterest or just go look in your own closet.

An Interview with...Teresa Gregorio

Leeto: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leeto

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Teresa here and here on Ravelry, you can find her on Facebook here. 

Here are her other social media links: Twitter:canarysanctuary, Instagram: canaryknits

Where do you find inspiration?
Most often I look to the bold drama of runway fashion. It's a fun challenge to take my favourite elements from those pieces and incorporate them into knitwear design.
The styles that most appeal to me are generally pieces that in one way or another align with period fashion. That could be the theatrical, romantic Baroque of McQueen, or the ambitious ridiculousness of the 1970s.


What is your favourite knitting technique?
That changes! Bobs from one sort of thing to another. But most recently I've been designing a lot with pleats and short rows.


How did you determine your size range?
For my independently published work, I wanted to have a generous range because I think fashion shouldn't be restricted to a narrow size set or type. It's not my place to tell someone that something will or won't flatter them. That's up to the knitter! Wear whatever you feel happy in! So I try to include the smallest adult women sizes I can find in sizing standards to the largest. Depending on what the pattern is, that can be up to about 8 or 9 sizes.

 

Beach House: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/beach-house-3

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I absolutely look at other designers' work! I think I'd be fooling myself if I thought I could design in a vacuum. I feel that looking at what other people are doing both keeps me in touch with the knitting community and challenges my design. And anyway, I'm a knitter! I like looking at design, and will knit for myself from other people's work.


How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
I think everyone learns differently, and there is a vast array of pattern writing styles out there. I'm sure knitters will be able to find patterns and pattern writers who they're comfortable working with, no matter how they like to engage with their knitting. My own designs tend to skew to an intermediate knitting level, so I assume a certain amount of experience when I write patterns.


Do you have a mentor?
I have other designers who I admire, but no specific mentor.


Do you use a tech editor?
Yes! My tech editors are a necessary part of my design process. Any work should be edited, let alone something technical like a knitting pattern. I've found my copy of Kate Atherley's Pattern Writing for Knit Designers to be indispensable.

 

Paridae: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/paridae

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
That's a challenge for sure! And I have no sage advice here. I just like to make lists, and that helps me to portion out work in attempts to keep on top of everything as well as have time for life.

How do you deal with criticism?
I saw a quote the other day that said something along the lines of "if you don't like my art, please go ahead and make your own". There's such a plethora of design sensibilities out there that you'll definitely have an audience, as well as a set of detractors.
It's helped me to keep that sort of thing in mind, because not everything is for everyone!

 

Lady Bat: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lady-bat

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
See above answer! There's going to be people who don't like what you do and unless you feel confidently about what you're doing, then you may easily be bullied into changing your style or dropping design entirely.
I think it's also very important to see what other people are doing and try your best to make and keep your work up to a high standard of professional quality. And many times that involves hiring people to do certain things for you. It may be tempting to believe you can/should do it ALL yourself, but it's valuable to recognize that sometimes you just can't.

 

Lucania: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lucania

What’s next for you?
I'm working on a big, super exciting project with a fellow designer. It's a collection inspired by the TV show Twin Peaks called Great Northern. You can read more about it here: http://greatnorthernknits.com

 

 Milk Maiden: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/milk-maiden

 

Photos and Schematics Lie?

I spent most of last Friday with two of my knitting friends. It was a lovely day. We spent time knitting, talking about knitting and occasionally about other things. It made for a very fun and relaxing day over morning coffee and later on lunch. We specifically picked a restaurant that is very large and doesn't seem to care that we stayed about 4 1/2 hours. Trish was working on this pattern:
 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/553---3-4-sleeve-scoop-neck

She was using a gorgeous softly variegated yarn and the lace was very beautiful. She's very tall and always has to add length. Then she commented that a project page on Ravelry mentioned the neckline was too low. We looked at the photo and then the schematic. Hummmm, the schematic shows the neckline starts at the same point as the underarm? It certainly doesn't look that way in the photo. Unfortunately the disconnect may be as simple as seeing the garment on a small breasted woman, except I can see both the curve of her bust and where the sweater is pulling up at the front hemline so while the model is not very curvy she isn't flat chested either.  So I have to guess the schematic isn't completely accurate. 

Karen wanted our opinion on this pattern: 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/396---poncho

She really likes the ruffle at the neckline. Her version wasn't looking the same. When we looked at the schematic it indicated a straight more turtleneck like edge. When I looked at various Ravelry projects there was quite a variety of results, many of them were lower and wider. I also noted that the pattern originally called for a 50/50 wool acrylic blend that was either Aran or Worsted weight depending on the pattern source. Many knitters had substituted in different yarns, most often 100% wool. Aran and worsted are generally very close but most knitters feel Aran is a little heavier. 

I also suspect the neckline is slightly different because while the pattern is written bottom up in two pieces, many knitters converted it to in the round, both bottom up and top down. So sometimes the neckline is seamed, sometimes it's a cast on edge and in other projects it's a cast off. My guess is for the cast off finishes some are probably tighter than the cast on edges.  


Interesting that they are both Bergere de France patterns. The lesson here is we need to look carefully at the photo and the schematic as well as recognize that yarn substitutions may also have an impact on our final result. Trish also commented after reviewing this post that her experience with
Bergere de France patterns has been they are always brief and offer a lot less instruction than many other companies. The schematic does match the instructions given in print. She guesses that it is the photography that is misleading here.

Why are Knitting and Crochet so often Confused?

A friend sent me this image from artist Yuko Shimizu. 
He was amused by the possible source of her yarn. For me the amusement comes from the needles the knitter is using, look closely.   

The image reminds me of this quote “In some languages the same word is used for both knitting and crochet, in spite of the structure and the equipment to produce such end products being quite different." Margaret Stove, Creating Original Hand-Knitted Lace    

I wonder if the artist added the hooks on purpose?