Showing posts with label Row Gauge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Row Gauge. Show all posts

Monday, June 24, 2013

Row Gauge - It Matters



I've ranted on about row gauge on many occasions. You can read about my views here and here.

My friend Glenna has an excellent, detailed post on the topic which I want to share with you. You can read it here.

Please appreciate the effort I'm currently making to avoid shaking my finger at you and muttering "I told you so" from behind my laptop...


Friday, August 10, 2012

Beware of Sound Bites!


"Genius is one percent inspiration and ninety-nine percent perspiration."  Thomas A. Edison

Modern media brings information to us in the form of fast and easily digestible sound bites. I've included a quote above that is one of my favourites. As a sound bite it works very well. It's inspiring and a simple reminder of what is really necessary for success. Sound bites have become a standard in a world dominated by slick media delivery. It's a format we like, simple, concise and easy to remember. However, sound bites have a nasty habit of biting back. They have the propensity to over simplify complex issues, methods and processes into a surefire path to unsuccessful knitting projects.

In many cases the individual offering the soundbite up is giving accurate information to a specific situation that will cause frustration on later projects.

My most despised knitting sound bite is " row gauge doesn't matter".

When I teach my class Band Practice I have to control myself from going into a huge rant on this one. We create a problem because this little nugget is usually offered up to the novice knitter as they knit their first project, usually a scarf, and usually row gauge doesn't matter very much in this case. As they move into more complex projects that either don't depend on fitting a specific body or have intersecting areas of knitting where rows are matched against stitches they hear this again. By the time they start to work on projects that do require a specific row gauge, the sound bite has been internalized and the knitter is convinced that the naysayers are wrong when we emphasize the importance of row gauge. Usually at this time the knitter does not yet have the skill set to make the necessary changes that would accommodate a different row gauge.

Incorrect row gauge creates problems with shaped areas like raglans, sleeve caps and sleeve tapering, A too loose gauge makes the knitting stretch, droop and pill. I've noticed while doing swatches that loose gauges are more likely to shrink after washing. Too tight, the fabric created is stiff and unflattering. Bands on cardigans droop or gather up the edges of the garment. It makes the yarn amount recommendations wildly inaccurate in both directions, either not enough or too much yarn.

I see many row gauge problems when knitters substitute yarns without considering fiber or weight. If you can get the right number of stitches per inch but have too many rows per inch, your yarn is too thin. If you can get the right number of stitches per inch but have too few rows per inch, your yarn is too thick as compared to the yarn in a specific pattern. If this is the case, the problems I've mentioned above are likely to arise. 


The fixes for row gauge include: 

  • changing needle size, 
  • changing needle type, which could be a different material or style, such as straights vs. circulars
  • changing the way you tension your yarn,
  • changing the yarn,
  • recalculating shaped areas of the knitting
  • knitting extra swatches to recalculate stitch numbers for bands.


What knitting sound bite do you hate?

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Row Gauge - Ignore it at Your Peril



The typical advice when working a swatch is to focus on stitch gauge and almost ignore row gauge. Beware of this as changing needles sizes can sometimes affect row gauge more than stitch gauge. So perhaps an additional swatch or two is in order if your row gauge is way off. 

If you are working simple shapes it's true you can just knit to the correct measurement as given in your pattern and you can ignore the row gauge. However there are many places that this simply does not work. I've often heard Knitters comment that they were working on something like the Swallowtail Shawl (pictured above), and had to knit extra repeats of one of the 3 pattern stitches to get the correct length. The shape of top down triangles also changes if the row gauge is off varying from a equilateral to an isosceles to a right angled triangle. Another place that row gauge is very important is in the popular top down raglans. The shape of the armhole and bust area is heavily affected by the stitch to row gauge. If you don't get that right there is no way that you will be knitting what the designer originally intended. It could be better or it could be worse depending on your individual body shape. The correct fit of set in sleeves and their proportion to the armhole will also be affected by a row gauge that changes the sleeve cap shape. Even if you have worked to the correct cap depth, the curve of the cap is determined by the cast offs and decreases so a row gauge discrepancy will change its overall shape. 

The final place that row gauge is important is for the horizontal front bands of a cardigan. The stitch pickups are calculated on the length and row count of the front of the garment and since not every size is test knit this is typically done mathematically. Therefore if your row gauge doesn't match neither will the pickups. 

Let me know - are you re-swatching when you get stitch gauge but not row gauge?