An Interview with...Sivia Harding

Rainshadow

 

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Sivia here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration? 
It could be anything... a reflection in a puddle, a flower, a tile on a building. Mostly though, I find it inspiring to look at beautiful things, whether from nature or from something that has been created. I try to keep a detailed design journal for those blessed times when the ideas are coming fast and furious.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Oh that's a hard one!! Hmm, maybe Moebius knitting. I find it calming, fun, endlessly fascinating and yet, there always seems to be more to learn. Never boring!

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs? 
That is a really, really good question. I don't think I am necessarily phobic about others' ideas implanting into my subconscious and turning up in something of mine because I have a pretty unique style, but I do tend to stay away from browsing new patterns on Ravelry. It's too anxiety producing to see the hundreds of new lovely designs coming down the pike every day and it makes me feel slow and inadequate. 

Celeste

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters? 
I honestly didn't know there is a controversy. I think patterns have changed hugely over the last ten years, because knitters have increased their skill set over the internet, on Ravelry forums and YouTube. I have noticed a certain skill discrepancy between older knitters who aren't as internet savvy and less likely to look up things they are not familiar with, and newer knitters who have seen and done a wider variety of techniques. The newer knitters tend to be much more fearless. As a result, I find myself not needing to explain things to quite the degree that I used to in patterns. From your question, though, it would seem that you are noticing the opposite. Very interesting.

It is a challenge to write patterns that everyone is happy with. It's a hard job to reach knitters at a common level and not be overly simplistic. That's why I love to teach. I think it is much easier to get things across in an engaging way in person.

Also, I find that I write differently for different audiences. I don't think this is necessarily dumbing down, however. For instance, I will condense as much as possible if I am writing for a magazine. In my own patterns and collections, I unapologetically use as much space as I need. I don't know if this answers your question or not. Probably, if I was getting complaints from knitters about my pattern writing, I might be more aware of the issue.

 

Harmonia's Rings Sweater

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
That number varies with my work flow. I try not to do it all myself, although I do knit everything I design once, either before or alongside whoever I have working with me. I like to have a group of testers all doing it together because they will notice different things between them. I admit that I have a terrible time keeping track of testers I have used, and I forget about them unless we work together consistently. I may be guilty of using certain ones over and over for that reason. It just takes less effort. A good test knitter is hard to find! And they are so essential to the process. 

Did you do a formal business plan?

No. I never have had a formal business plan.

Do you have a mentor?
I have had mentors, although now I probably have more peer support than mentor support.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I am probably way too right-brained for that. There are certainly business methods and business people that I know and admire (and feel extremely lucky in that), but I know myself too well to try to emulate someone who does not process information the same way I do.

Midsommer

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes, absolutely.

 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

It's very hard in this business! There is not enough time to do everything. I try to take days off, and it's easier to do that when I am away from home. I am learning to stay an extra day when I am traveling if it is possible, and just have fun. At home, I tend to work. 

How do you deal with criticism?

Not very well, I am afraid. Years ago in art school, I came up with the strategy of being unique and having my own style, and just working really hard in order to be more or less above criticism. I am critical of myself and that's hard enough! And yet, it seems to be getting a little easier over time to pick up and go on after an incident.  

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I didn't have to support myself until I had been designing for a few years, which helped take the stress off. Now, I think we all have to be more creative about marketing and special events like retreats and knitalongs to be visible above the sea of designers. There are so many. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Take the time to explore your own style, and don't expect knitters to come and find you.
 

Jo's Pride Hooded Shawl

Are you Missing out? Rock Star Knitters

My local Guild has trouble filling classes at their teaching events. It's a real shame because it means our members are missing some absolutely fabulous learning opportunities. Many of our out of town guest teachers are one time appearances only. Unless you are going to Vogue Live or Stitches and spending the big bucks, those of us here in Toronto won't get a second chance at a class with these teachers. Some of our local teachers who currently teach at both of those events no longer teach locally for the same reason.

Some time ago I did a little independent survey of knitters and asked if they take classes because of the topic or because of the teacher. Most knitters initially told me it was due to the teacher. However, the really interesting part of the discussion was the question, who did they learn the most from? The answer was frequently not the Rock Stars. 

The YarnOver SleepOver Retreat  that I am part of was originated because we wanted to create our own teaching opportunities. Here's a quote from one of our attendees, “I thought I knew a lot about knitting until I came here, and learned things I could not have even imagined.”

I know none of us qualify as Rock Stars.

A member of my Guild who moved away, posted my name and that of Fiona Ellis in a thread for her new Guild which asked for suggestions for teachers for classes. When I was told about it, I read through the thread. Post # 26 is very interesting! I'll ask the question again, are you missing out by only focusing on Rock Star knitters? 

Trends - How to Wear Over-sized Clothing

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pinwheel-cardigan

Mainstream fashion is currently moving towards a looser silhouette. Knitters will begin to see this reflected in patterns. As the new shapes become more common in retail and we see them on many other women, the looser fit will begin to look more correct and modern. Remember the gigantic shoulder pads which were worn in the '80s? They look odd in retrospect but were the norm back then.

Vogue Magazine published techniques for knitting shoulder pads.

There are ways to look good in oversize no matter what your size and shape. Check out my post on bone size to help understand your own proportions. I think the proportional length of your limbs is one of the most important details that determines whether oversize will be flattering on an individual. To my eye it's more telling than height or size. If you have long limbs and a long neck it's easier to look balanced in these larger scale garments even if you are a petite or a plus size.  

It's critical to discriminate between patterns designed to be over-sized rather than knitting items that are just too big. When you get the recipe right, over-sized clothes look fashionable, not as though you are wearing someone else's clothing. Sleeves must not be too long and necklines must not be sliding off your shoulders.

No matter what your individual shape is you need to look at balancing out proportions. The larger the sweater, the more fitted the rest of your clothing should be. Skinny jeans and leggings make great casual choices, and a fitted pencil skirt or narrow dressy pants work well in more formal situations.   

Consider balancing out over-sized sweaters by pairing them with shorter bottoms. A shorter hemline will work to offset the volume on the top part of the body. This works for those of you with good legs. Make sure the hem of the bottom garment is clearly visible.  I recently saw someone wearing this version and initially thought the over-size sweater was being worn as a dress. 

Think about belting over-size cardigans to add back a waistline. I'm already seeing this done in advertising by the stylists. 

Wear an under layer that sits closer to your body so that your shape is defined with an open cardigan. 

Try a higher heel to give better balance.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pinwheel-cardigan

My Pinwheel Cardigan is very over-sized. I'm 5' 2" with short arms. I wear it successfully with tailored grey trousers. I create a column of colour with a close fitted grey shirt, and I wear heels for extra balance. I make sure my wrists show below the sleeve hem. I choose to wear it hanging open to create a vertical line up the centre of my torso.  I've never worn it with the skirt I used in the pattern photo, because the skirt is quite long. I planned to crop the photo when it was taken.

How do you plan to wear the new silhouette?  Over-size means lots more knitting so you might want to think about these details before you choose your pattern.

An Interview with...Hanna Maciejewska

Cabeladabra

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Hanna here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

Everywhere! Most people who create things say this, don't they? It is all true! The world is full of colors and shapes. Sometimes it is nature that captures my attention (I am a huge fan of gardening), sometimes architecture. I live close to the ancient town of Torun with its historical buildings and the university, and I love to wander around, feeling history and watching people. However, it is the yarn that stimulates me the most. If a yarn doesn't "talk" to me, I tend not to work with it...

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Definitely cables! Especially the way I can drape them all over a garment and hide and incorporate shaping in cleverly placed cables. But I also like to learn new techniques and new stitches; it always motivates me a lot.

How did you determine your size range?

It depends on the garment. I always try to make my designs available to as many sizes as possible, but not all stitch patterns and garments can be sized the same. Generally, most of my patterns will fit bust circumferences ranging from 28" to 50".

Endearment

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

It is always part of pre-development research to evaluate the market before I put all my resources into a new design. With globalization of sources of inspiration (Re-pins of inspirational photos and social site quotes gone viral, I'm talking about you!), it is sometimes unavoidable that somebody will have the same idea at the same time and develop similar ideas as I. Just recently, I had thought up a cardigan with a row of buttons down the back and thought I was ever so clever for this idea - until another designer came out with – a cardigan with a row of buttons down the back! I did not publish mine, but moved on to the next idea.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

While I strive to make the knitting process as pleasant and enjoyable as possible and to write my patterns in a clear and easily understandable way, I never dumb down my designs for the sake of superficial fast success with easier stitches where another stitch combination would bring better results. Comparing the amount of time spent knitting a garment to the the amount of time it will be worn later, I always consider it well worth to go for the more sophisticated way of achieving a goal: If it will improve the fit, or the finishing will just look smarter that way - yes, my patterns will contain that provisional cast-on, stitches knit through the back loop or cables with hidden decreases, and I will explain, often with a photo tutorial, how to work these special stitches. Learning something new with every project is always well worth it!

On the Move

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I would like to do it all by myself, but this is just not possible, or is it? As for testers, it really depends on the project. For accessories, I usually ask for the help of four to five testers while for sweaters with multiple sizes, I usually need one or two testers for each size. As for sample knitters, I'm a hands-on designer and do knit up every design before I grade it and pass it on to test knitters. Very often, useful ideas for improvement will come to my mind while I knit up a design myself.

Did you do a formal business plan?

Yes, I have one. While, of course, designing should be fun, the serious side of a knitting business should not be underestimated - that's why I sketch out promotional ideas, new designs, trends and general business thoughts well in advance in writing. Often, I will ask my family or trusted circle of friends what they think about my business ideas or release plans, and their feedback is always useful. If the business part didn't work out, I wouldn't be able to continue designing!

Do you have a mentor?

Not really... However, there are people who I ask for advice and whom I really trust. I have a few really close friends (online and in my hometown) who are of great help to me!

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

No. I'd rather come up with my own!

Symbiotic Cowl

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

A huge one indeed! First of all, the Internet has made the knitting world a lot faster and enabled me to keep in touch with knitters around the world almost in real time, making my business possible in the first place. When I joined Ravelry a few years ago, at first, I posted projects just for fun. After a dear friend, who is a talented hand dyer, created a special yarn for me, I wrote and felt encouraged to publish "Colors of Kauai", which was so well received that I decided to write down more of my designs. However, the Internet also has another impact on global business that, as a knitting designer, one should not be ignorant of: Unfortunately, sometimes it will happen that content gets re-published by unauthorized sources from people with dishonorable intentions or who erroneously believe they have the right to redistribute a pattern as they see fit once they have bought it. When I recently had my content removed from a site which had illegally republished one of my patterns shortly after release, I was contacted by unhappy users of that site, lecturing me that by publishing my pattern, I had enabled and literally invited illegal sharing, and had I just knitted in the seclusion of my home without "showing off on the net", nothing could have been stolen. That's like saying: "I just had to steal your bike, why did you have to ride to town on it instead of leaving it at home in your garage!"

Wink

Do you use a tech editor?

All my patterns, even the smallest accessories, are thoroughly edited and test knitted in all sizes. I also have most of them translated into other languages before release, which adds an additional security layer to catch any possible errors!

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Thankfully, knitting has the upper seat in the seesaw of my work/family balance! I have a very supportive family who encourage my knitting endeavors and designing escapades, helping with mundane tasks where they can, cheering me on and being happy for me when I accomplish a goal.

Laelia

How do you deal with criticism?

Of course, one can never make all people happy at the same time - everybody has their preferences, and different people have different tastes and needs. I find it very useful to hear what people have to suggest about my patterns, especially people from all over the world and from different ways of life - it gives me so much valuable insight, and I appreciate the possibility to improve my designs so people will like them even more! One example I have already incorporated and always get positive responses about is he fit of the sleeves in larger sizes - I appreciate all the feedback I've received over time from my tireless test knitters with different body shapes, especially the larger ones, and meanwhile have arrived at grading my garments in such a way that customers are happy with the fit. It would not have been possible without the valuable input of my test knitters!

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I am still working on it, and it is in my 5-year plan.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Keep knitting! Have fun! Look out for opportunities, and never ever let others put you down!

Wisteria Lane

Just in case you missed this...

Just in case you missed this...an old post A Special Guest Post by Dorothy Siemens of Fiddlesticks Knitting...How a Yarn is Born is suddenly and for no obvious reason getting a lot of hits. 

You can see all of her gorgeous work here.

Is your Bone Structure Small Meduim or Large?

The information below comes from the book Fabulous Fit by Judith A Rasband and Elizabeth L. G. Liechty. It's meant for sewers not knitters but covers some interesting details knitters don't usually think about. It turns out that while I am petite as determined by my height, I have a medium bone structure. The fashion rule is to choose items in alignment with your bone structure. Once you know what your frame size is you can pick clothing and accessories appropriate to your size. As a medium framed petite I prefer medium scale items. In the past I was often given little delicate pieces of jewellery as gifts. I never understood before I found this chart why I didn't like it on me. Does this information help you?

If you are carrying extra weight subtract 1/8"  for every 30 extra pounds for a more accurate assessment.

Petite Height (under 5'4")
Wrist Measurement 5 1/2" or less - Small bone size or frame
Wrist Measurement 5 5/8 - 6" - Medium Bone Size or Frame
Wrist Measurement 6 1/8" or more Large Bone Size or Frame

Height - Medium (5'4" - 5'7")
Wrist Measurement 5 3/4" or less Small Bone Size or Frame
Wrist Measurement 5 7/8" to 6 1/4" Medium Bone Size or Frame
Wrist Measurement 6 3/8" or more Large Bone Size or Frame

Height - Tall (Over 5'7")
Wrist Measurement 6" or less -Small Bone Size or Frame
Wrist Measurement 6 1/8" to 6 1/2" Medium Bone Size or Frame
Wrist Measurement 6 5/8" or more Large Bone Size or Frame

An Interview with....Mary Annarella

Girl on Fire

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Mary on Ravelry here and her patterns are here too.

Where do you find inspiration?

I find inspiration in a variety of places: Sometimes in nature or a place, sometimes simply out of a desire to add a particular garment to my wardrobe. For years, I envied how knitters wore their beautiful lace shawls.  I love knitting shawls but somehow find myself "shawl challenged".  When I try to wrap them over my shoulders, they just never sit quite right on me, lol.  So, I did a series of designs (Elphaba, Daydream Believer, Iolanthe, and Sleepy Jean) that incorporate various elements of shawl design...and I get to wear a shawl as part of a sweater.

Another set of designs (my Quabbin Series) was inspired by four central Massachusetts towns that were flooded back in the 1930s to make way for a reservoir that serves the Boston area.  These designs were inspired by the sense of place and history of each of these former towns. The Quabbin Series includes: Prescott Cardigan, Prescott DK Cardigan, Steel Rail, A Hat for Dana, and Swift River Cardigan.

Sleepy Jean Cardigan

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I'm crazy about top-down construction!  My latest favorite is Barbara Walker's method of working a sweater from the top-down with a simultaneous set-in sleeve.  It requires picking up just a handful of stitches for the top of the sleeve cap, and then working increases to give a really beautiful set-in sleeve.

How did you determine your size range?

I began following an industry standard that was recommended by Interweave when I published a design with them a few years ago.  I begin with a 29" bust and work up sizes in 3" increments through a 50" bust.

Daydream Believer

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I occasionally get nervous that I'll publish something that someone else has already done, so I check as best I can.  I don't mind re-interpreting the wheel, but I'd rather not publish a re-invention of it.   Otherwise, I spend enough time chatting with knitters on Ravelry that it would be tough for me to not see what else is out there.  Plus, I enjoy watching trends to see what folks like to wear and enjoy knitting--it's fun to put my own spin on trend and see what I can come up with.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?

I'm not sure that patterns are being particularly dumbed-down, per se.  I think it's more that the digital format has allowed designers and writers to include all the details they want without the constraint of having to keep a pattern to a certain number of pages and font size.  Photo tutorials, suggestions for how to choose a size, explanations for an unusual increase or cable...they all take up a lot of space.  With a digital format, I can take up the space needed to try to anticipate knitters' questions and needs as they work through one of my patterns.  The more clear a pattern is, the more likely that, say, a new knitter will stick with it and create a garment that they are happy with and enjoyed knitting.

Simplicity Cardigan

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I knit nearly all of my own designs and samples, but I've run several test knits that have been enjoyable and fun. Test knits have taught me a lot about what works well for many knitters as they follow a pattern.

Did you do a formal business plan?

I've been mostly making this up as I go, and my plan is generally: Get inspired, write, knit, photograph, edit, publish.  Rinse and repeat.  I try to work in a few trunk shows, and have plans for selling on my own site (once I set one up) in addition to Ravelry.

The way you wear your Hat

Do you have a mentor?

Not formally, but I do have a few friends that I can bounce ideas off of.

Do you use a tech editor?

Absolutely yes!  It's tough to edit one's own writing, so I find working with a tech editor essential to my process.  I've worked with the same TE for a few years, and I trust her wholeheartedly.

Soubrette

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Not terribly well at times!  I'm a bit of a work-a-holic when it comes to knitting and designing, and since I also teach at a college part time, there's always something to do--if it's not pattern grading, it's exam and quiz grading!  I absolutely love designing, knitting, and writing patterns, so it's easier to have plenty of energy for it.  

Like a lot of knitters, I bring a project bag and wip with me most places I go (you never know--what if I had a flat tire, and had to wait for AAA without my knitting??), but I do try to put things away for an hour or so each day for some down time.  Otherwise, I exercise and sing daily--both are like meditation for me, and make me feel happy.  Always good for life balance! I'm also at a point in my life where my kids are older (both in college!) and working in this way is easier for me to do than when they were little.

Swift River Cardigan

How do you deal with criticism?

I want my patterns to be as clear as possible, so I think it's important to listen to constructive criticism, especially if a handful of knitters all have the same suggestion.  Thankfully, I've never really felt criticized, only supported.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I'm getting there, and things have really been taking off lately!

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Go for it!  Design what you love, do excellent work, and put it where people can see it.

ObLaDi