Friday, September 5, 2014

An Interview with...Hilary Smith Callis

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mielie-vest



Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Hilary here and here on Ravelry.


Where do you find inspiration?
I find inspiration a number of places, from astronomical objects to the latest Anthropologie catalog, but the most common place for me to go searching for inspiration is in yarn. Yarn has a funny way of knowing what it wants to be, and I feel like it's my job to listen to it. Unfortunately, this sometimes means letting go of my own vision for a certain yarn, but it's also a great adventure to cast on a single stitch and see where the yarn wants to take me.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I LOVE a provisional cast on.

How did you determine your size range?
When I first started designing, I knew I wanted my size range for sweaters to be as inclusive as possible. I did some research on what other designers were doing, what sizes knitters were knitting, and what was happening in terms of sizes in the top knitting magazines. I ultimately decided to go up to a 56" or 60" bust (depending on the design), with sizes spaced in increments of 4". When I was a teen and young adult, I was quite skinny for my age and ALWAYS frustrated that the clothes I liked were too big for me, so I start the range for adult sweaters at 28" for those gals who might be in the same boat.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I love to look at what other designers are doing, partially to make sure I don't have any designs in the pipeline that are too similar to theirs. And I don't necessarily think it's a bad thing to be inspired by others' designs -- I consider it "research" to knit others' patterns every once in awhile. Once, I was struggling with the type of increase to use in a design -- I'd redone a particular part of the pattern a million times before angrily setting it aside. I started knitting a baby sweater (designed by another) as a palate cleanser and - what do you know - there was an increase used in that baby sweater I hadn't thought of that ended up working PERFECTLY with my design. I'd love it if one of my designs inspired another designer similarly.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/starshower

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
A lot of people these days are learning to knit by jumping into patterns they've found on the internet, and I'm happy to make my patterns as simple and clearly-written as possible, even if it feels like I'm "dumbing them down". Not everyone has a yarn shop or expert knitter nearby...or, in my case, when I really learned to knit, I felt that my local yarn shop staff were a little snobby and was scared to ask them questions! I appreciated having access to some very clear and simple patterns on the internet -- they taught me how to knit sweaters!

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I do it all myself -- the knitting is my favorite part of the process.

Did you do a formal business plan?
I probably should have, but nope...

Do you have a mentor?
No, but I do have a number of friends in the business that I feel I can go to for advice.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No. So far, I've just done what works for me.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/itineris

Do you use a tech editor?
YES! I would never send a pattern out into the wild without having a professional review it first.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
This is hard, because I love what I do so much that it doesn't feel like work and I want to be doing it all the time. But to avoid being distracted on the computer when my son wants to play with me, I set a pretty rigid schedule for myself: all computer work (pattern grading, pattern writing, email-answering, etc.) is done while he is at preschool (or napping) and knitting is mostly done while he sleeps (nap-time or after bed). Because I can knit and interact at the same time, I'm less strict about when I knit. Even if it's technically doing work, I love knitting while my husband and son are playing with Legos on the floor and we're all listening to music or a baseball game together.
How do you deal with criticism?
The nice thing about having an internet-based business is that I can overreact to criticism without anyone seeing it. :)  Then, after I've calmed down, I can assess the criticism and its foundation and respond in an appropriate way. When it comes down to it, whether I think the criticism has a fair basis or not, I truly don't want to frustrate or upset anyone with my patterns and designs. So I like to apologize, get to the root of the problem, and try to form an explanation that helps turn the criticism around.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Considering December 2009 as the beginning of my design career, I'd say it took about 4.5 years to get to my target sales numbers. But during that time I was either designing alongside a full-time job, or alongside a part-time job and a baby. Even with a toddler at home, when I quit my day job last year and was able to focus my non-parenting energy on my design business, things took off.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Be patient and keep working at it! A designer I admire, Amy Christoffers, once shared this Thomas Jefferson quote in reference to having a career in knitwear design, and I think of it often: "I am a great believer in luck. I find the harder I work, the more I have of it."

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

If you want to be on the list....

http://rosehavenyarn.com/ai1ec_event/wool-wine/


I’ve been getting so many requests from people to let them know when and where I’ll be teaching or speaking next that I’ve started an email list.

I've got four events this fall in various locations around Ontario.

If you would like to be added to the list please send me your email address. You can email me at robinknits(AT)gmail(dot)com




http://www.ladeebee.com/p/events-workshops.html



Monday, September 1, 2014

The Dolly Bantry Shawl - New Pattern Release

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-dolly-bantry-shawl







I don't often knit the same design more than once but I really got into this one because of the options the design allows for. There is something so fun about putting several yarns together and waiting to see how each one adds to the total effect. I finished a fourth version while we were doing the photography on these three and seriously considered starting another version before I got myself under control and decided I should move on.  I think it was partially due to the easy construction. The one below is the version not listed in the pattern. I used two yarns (Schulana Kid Seta and Classic Elite Firefly) held together instead of one heavier weight yarn for this version. The other two yarns used were one strand of Firefly and one strand of Rowan Fine lace.






This shawl is worked top down. The ruffle at the bottom edge is formed with a variation on Feather and Fan lace that grows with the addition of extra yarn overs. The simple lace is charted and written in text format.







I've included several recommended combinations of yarn, however the pattern notes are written with enough detail so that a confident knitter could substitute any combination of yarns for equally stunning results. 





The project also makes for a great stash busting knit. Any 3 yarns can be used. Choose 1 of a heavier weight, multi-coloured yarn and 2 yarns of lighter weight in coordinating colours. Use a needle 1-2 sizes larger than the ball band recommendation of the heaviest yarn to create a fabric with drape. The yarn with the least amount of yardage will determine the size of the shawl. Work until approximately 45% of the yarn is used and then start the lower edge of the shawl. Stitches are increased rapidly in the edging to form the ruffle. Once the ruffle is completed it will add 25% more length to the shawl. The length measurements will increase when the shawl is worn due to the nature of the garter stitch construction. The pattern is available here on Ravelry and will be up on Patternfish soon.

Friday, August 29, 2014

An Interview with...Lori Law

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lutea-shawl


Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Lori here and here on Ravelry.


Where do you find inspiration?

Everywhere. I am constantly influenced by things in my environment, nature, colour, seasons, emotions, books, movies, photos. I try to remain open to possibilities. I know I can't develop all of the creative whims which come my way, there are not enough hours in a day. However, I write things down, and if I am still compelled at a later time, I will roll with it in some format.  I've also done a fair amount of designing for Anne Podlesak's lace clubs over the years, where Shakespeare has been the source of inspiration.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I don't have a favourite on any given day, but my go-to design/general knitting elements are lace, cables and colourwork.

Your design focus seems to be on accessories, could you tell us a little about that?

I have been doing accessories for a long time because it allowed me to develop more as a dyer and have pattern support for the yarns I dye which work well for shawls and socks. Over the next year, however, I will be (finally!) publishing sweater designs. I have several sweater ideas, some of which I've already churned out the multi-sizing for in spreadsheets, which I've been working on here and there for about 10 years. My issue over the years has been finding the time to actually get them knit up and tested and fine-tuned. But, I currently have two sitting here waiting on the final go-through which I just need to set aside the time to do, aiming to get them published by September.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sleepy-hollow-socks


Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I roll through the Ravelry patterns section about once a week. I am not really looking for anything other than eye-candy a lot of the time. I usually don't take the time to delve very deeply unless I'm looking for something to knit for myself but I enjoy looking at pretty knitting, like most knitters do.

But, in terms of other designers' work influencing my own? No. I like certain things, I have a few designers I watch mostly because I enjoy looking at or knitting their work, or they are friends and I like to see how their latest design came out. I might think, hey, I like the shape of that shawl, I'd like to do something in that shape. I think I have a fairly strong sense of what I tend to lean towards when I'm working so a lot of my chosen techniques are fairly solidified so I can call on them when I need them. And I also specifically don't go looking because I do not want that anxiety about someone else having done what I'm doing invading what I have going on.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I don't. I actually didn't know there was really a controversy. I thought it was designer's preference as far as pattern writing style goes? I try to present my work as clearly as possible. I personally don't like reading through long-winded procedures. So when I am explaining what to do I aim for clearly and concisely. If a knitter has a question, I am available via email to help. I think I'm doing okay in this respect because I have had very few enquiries about techniques and how-tos in my patterns over the years.

Recently, a knitter mentioned, “I’m in the middle of knitting these for the second time, and it strikes me just how well-written this pattern is. When I made my first pair, I was still pretty new to knitting, so I hadn’t encountered badly-written patterns and just figured this one was the norm. No, it’s exceptionally well-done and clear.  I’ve “stolen” the heel and gusset combo for several of my other socks that I’ve knit in the interim because I think it’s just beautiful. But when I wanted to make my mother a beautiful pair of socks, there was no other candidate, only Sleepy Hollow. :-)”

What a heartening compliment, eh? 

When I put patterns together, I try to break everything down into steps and work on the principle of one thing at a time. I write patterns that way – I will have a spreadsheet version which I've done the actual design knitting/numbers/charts with, but when I'm writing the actual pattern language for publishing, I will start with 'cast on 64 sts, join into a round being careful to not twist the stitches, PM for beginning of round', which I will do, then I will write the next step and knit it, and so on. I tend to skim when I'm reading things and I do not like the idea of skimming over a copy-pasted pattern and missing something crucial when publishing. I do not like accidents so I try to keep them from showing up in my work.

And I think being hands-on (every time, even though it's a slower process) allows me to not only think like the knitter who might someday knit the pattern, but also to write things up clearly. It also makes me more objective about the pattern, I think. I think patterns are like road-maps.

I don't think we need to rewrite the basics all the time. There are a ton of books and YouTube for that and other websites which outline basic techniques.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/duskywing-shawl


How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I am still the everything knitter. I knit each pattern myself. Usually twice. That is the cool thing about designing socks. :)

Did you do a formal business plan?

Not so much in terms of long-term projections. But I started with a budget to buy yarns and dye of $1000. I gave myself two years to have it work. At the time I started my youngest was months old so I was home with him anyway, and later I was working retail part-time and also still doing a fair amount of web development work, so I sort of slid into it one skein at a time. I have a degree in Fine Arts with a Consumer Studies minor, and I had owned a restaurant previously, so the combination of creative + business didn't intimidate me too much.

In terms of how things have developed over the years I decided I wouldn't try every yarn available to dye, sort of stuck with what I like to work with when designing and built around that. In terms of future developments, I'm leaning much farther into weaving than knitting. I have missed that creative finished 'thing' over the years. A lot of knitting design work is conceptual. I have sewing skills I can put to work as well. I'm working on a few styles of hand-woven bags as well as other woven items using hand-spun. One thing I enjoy especially with weaving is how quickly things can work up vs knitting.

I do think it's a business where you need to be flexible. But with limits. No dyer/designer can do everything with every yarn, you know? But, OTOH, if you're open to creative opportunities, you can develop those which work for you. When I started, I was a knitter with an arts background. I crocheted occasionally. Now I'm a dyer, spinner, weaver, knitting designer. The weaving happened by accident – my MIL called one day wondering if we knew anyone who would like a loom which was being unloaded from a resource centre in Victoria. It was like, boing! I had the loom for 4 years before it was put together and warped. I read books and learned as much as possible online and finally have gotten to the point where I'm a confident weaver. It had moved across the country with us from BC but life sometimes doesn't allow for everything at any given moment, so I bided my time picking up bits of weaving inspiration here and there over the years until the time came to get on with it if I was ever going to get on with it. And, now I have two floor looms, and inkle and a mini-inkle. LOL. I still don't have room for both to be set up at once, but I'm working on that. I also have an antique sock knitting machine which is a whole other enjoyable ballgame in addition to everything else.

Do you have a mentor?

I have a few online pals and a few offline pals who I swing things by with, and a few offline, as well. Although I don't consider them mentors, I have to say Koigu and Philosopher's and Handmaiden were definitely inspiring way back. I first encountered Koigu about, oh, 16 years ago? during the local fall art studio tour here, in there area, and it was a wow moment. But it was still another nearly 10 years before I dyed my first skein. But the seeds of potential were planted that day.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/oyster-bay-shawl


Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

Not particularly. When I got into dyeing, there were only a handful of indie dyers around (2005) compared to nowadays. I started doing skeins and then developed for wholesale, which also helped me to develop repeatable colourways. I had to give those 'dye on demand' colourways a break over the last several years because of health issues. But the health is much better these days so I'm going to be bringing those back very shortly. I think choosing from a variety of colourways allows folks more options than a skein which is only going to be around once. I also like the rhythm of dyeing when you've got familiarity to work with.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

Huge. I wouldn't have made it otherwise because I didn't have the resources to hire a rep to go door to door with my yarn to show to shops when I was starting out.

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes. Me. I also tech edit the work of others (something else I'm going to be outlining better on my website in the near future), and of course, I edit all the patterns available on EnneaCollective.com. I also have a few fellow designers who will review things for me before I hit the official published button.

Lori's hand dyed Yarn


How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Some days, not very well. LOL. It is getting easier as I go forward. For the last five years I've had some serious health issues which were very hard to get ironed out. It's been hard to keep working in a pattern which I felt was productive and fresh. Also, my youngest has ASD which requires diligent parenting and awareness. So, I only dye when he's at school, for example, or if I have childcare available. My husband works from home a lot of the time as well so we work it out between us to be sure our son's needs are covered while we're working. A lot of my designing work happens late at night into the wee hours.

How do you deal with criticism?

I have been lucky to not have to face negative criticism too often. But I appreciate constructive criticism. I think, however, in the online world, people tend to be more blatant about their likes/dislikes than they would face to face, which can be hard to swallow, especially if you're working alone and having to motivate yourself on a daily basis to put stuff out there. I try to take everything I see/read with a grain of salt and know it might not be quite as extreme as it sounds. If there is something which crops up between myself and a knitter, with either a pattern or a yarn issue, I do my best to rectify the situation to a positive end.

In the end, however, I myself am probably the most critical about my work, really.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Several years. There was a point where I could have gone 'bigger' if I'd really pushed to develop the means to do so. There is a fine balance as an indie designer/dyer, IMO, in being able to remain hands-on and also be self-sufficient without getting in over your head. I've hired people on a need by need basis to help out with shows or skeining, but I don't feel I want to get into a situation where I have to hire someone to help with actual dyeing production because I think then you are entering the territory whereby you're not an indie anymore, you are a company. I don't think that's for me. So I tend to be a little modest in terms of what I offer to folks because I don't want to get in over that line. One year, however, I wound up doing outsourced club dyeing of huge double-sized custom skeins which turned out to be for 400+ people when I'd initially agreed to dye for 150. That was a frustrating time because it took over a lot of everything in my life. I don't really want to go there again although the financial rewards are great. I tend to live frugally to avoid being in a constant rat-race. Sometimes I do dream of having a fun-coloured late model Mini Cooper to whiz around in. LOL.

There are days when I think, gee, it'd be so easy to just have a 'regular' job with a pre-ordained paycheque date, but I know even if I did have that, I would still be designing and making things with wool. It's kind of compulsive. So, hey, let's have that compulsion be an income source.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

I don't know. It's fun sometimes and sometimes it's hard. Like most things, I guess. If you enjoy it, try it. The one thing about doing things professionally nowadays versus even 10 years ago is the culture online is so developed, the market is there. OTOH, I find the need for blogging and social networking these days to be quite overwhelming at times. There is not a lot of downtime. Because if you're not actually working on designs or yarn, you are on Facebook or Ravelry or Twitter or Tumblr or Instagram or LinkedIn or... it can be exhausting. And keeping your website fresh can also take a lot of time and effort. OTOH, the social networks are also inspiring and fun. It's all about 'being there' vs just putting your work out there and talking about it, these days. There is a lot of interaction involved in the business these days. There are also organizations where membership can be helpful, something I haven't yet jumped into, like TNNA. I know I don't do enough of the social side of it. However, having all of these things available is so great! If we were all just sitting in our log cabins designing in isolation like 100 years ago it wouldn't be the vibrant knitting world it is today. Everything is so incredibly global now and the opportunities are exceptional. So, my advice in terms of building a knitting career would be to know it will involve more than just knitting to be successful. It's also a very subjective business.