Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Is this the Golden Age of Knitting?

http://www.etsy.com/shop/TheContentedKnitter?section_id=12189018


I read about knitting everyday. I get knitting newsletters, I read knitting blogs, I get knitting books from the library. In my early knitting days I was an isolated knitter. The only other knitters I knew were related to me. Now I have a regular knitting group and I attend the occasional Knit night at a local shop. I go to knitting events either to shop or teach. The Internet has made so much more possible in the knitting world. We knitters can find each other so easily now. We share information and it seems to me we may be experiencing the golden age of knitting. 

Technical abilities are increasing. You can take a class while sitting in your own home and yarn shops are opening in more locations offering classes. When I teach classes I often have very advanced students who have good, solid skills that they are looking to build on. 

Design advances in both construction and aesthetics seem to be popping up everywhere. At the same time knitters are having fun with traditionally based knitting and enjoy learning about the history of our craft. 

Do you think this might be the golden age of knitting?





Friday, August 16, 2013

An Interview with...Cindy Garland


Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Cindy here and here on Ravelry.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/roundabout-6

Where do you find inspiration? 
Everywhere!  I am really drawn to mid-century modern architecture and artwork.  I really like clean, crisp lines and color blocking but done in modern color palettes and bold combinations.  My husband and I recently spent a day at the Chicago Art Institute and I came away just bursting with ideas and designs spinning in my head.

What is your favourite knitting technique? 

As boring as it sounds, I’m extremely partial to stockinette stitch.  The smooth surface and the even stitches are so much more light and airy in a finished item than the texture and weight of garter stitch.

How did you determine your size range? 
Since I mostly work with accessories, it isn’t so much a factor.  But I do try to keep in mind that even with a shawl what looks just right on one person may appear too tiny or too large on another, so I try to make all of my patterns in a variety of yarn weights so people have the option of up or down sizing them to fit their wants.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs? 
I appreciate other designers’ work and I do enjoy seeing what’s out there.  I don’t worry too much about being influenced by other people’s viewpoints.  When I was very young my mom, who is an interior decorator, told me to do what you love and it will always go together and look good.  I have found that to be very true for designing.  If I follow my inspiration and do it in colors that make me happy, it will be unique to my point of view and look good.  The reverse is true too.   If I try to force something that I’m not quite sure about or a color I don’t love, it often doesn't turn out well.


http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/trilinear

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters? 
As a designer, I understand both sides.  My viewpoint is that our society wants instant information, and knitters are no different.  There are a lot of new knitters and some experienced knitters that are branching out into new techniques.  They want all the information in one place.  I don’t think that means I have to write out every single detail, but I do include links and sources to where they can find the needed information quickly and efficiently.  Most of my customers seem to be very happy with that.  As a designer, it can mean more work on the front end of pattern creation, but it does cut down on the questions and emails over the life of the pattern.  It also makes for a happier (=repeat) customer.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself? 
I currently work with about 6-8 test knitters.  They are excellent at time management and are always honest with me on what is confusing/lacking in my written instructions and charts.  I honestly could not do it without them.  I try to rotate in some new testers on each project just to get a new perspective and add some new eyes to each project. 

Did you do a formal business plan? 
My husband and I have owned several successful businesses, so I have some solid business experience and treat designing very much as a business.  I have an affinity for spreadsheets and numbers, so there are definite goals and milestones that I track and am always aware of working towards.  I am also very mindful of the accounting requirements and tax ramifications of my sales.  As far as a formal, written business plan, I haven’t written down all the details that typically encompasses, but I do believe that I am mentally cognizant of my business plan in all my decisions. 

Do you have a mentor? 
No.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No.

What impact has the Internet had on your business? 
I don’t think I would be a designer without the Internet.  I always knitted to relax and then I realized I wanted a more creative outlet.  I only considered designing as a business due to websites like Ravelry, Etsy, Patternfish and Craftsy.  Without them, I don’t know that I’d have the audience to have a business.

Do you use a tech editor?
Yes.  I firmly believe you cannot proof read your own written work.  Your brain just doesn’t see the mistakes.  A good tech editor is a hard to find and I’ve been through a few.  It is very much a matter of finding someone who “gets” your way of communicating and also is meticulously detailed every time. 

How do you maintain your life/work balance? 
My husband also works from our home and we jointly home school our 10 year old special needs son, so our days are probably not typical by most people’s standards, but we love it.  I do my computer work during early morning hours and breaks during the day.  Knitting is usually done while working with my son, riding in the car, and in the evenings while my family watches TV or plays games.  They know it’s my “job” and are supportive, but I also try to be sure I’m not overly focused on knitting and neglecting other things in my life. 

How do you deal with criticism?
I’m not a fan. ;)  I’m sure most people aren’t overly fond of criticism, but I try to find the good in it.  I feel there are two types of criticism; helpful and spiteful.  Helpful criticism is when someone finds a typo or problem with formatting, etc.  They have a right say, “Hey, this is wrong.”  Spiteful criticism is typically governed by opinion, like when someone negatively bashes a pattern because they don’t like the colors it is made up in or they’d rather it have this edge over that edge.  Everyone is entitled to an opinion, but when you anonymously state it in a mean or derogatory way; I have little patience for that, which unfortunately has become all too common online.  That doesn’t mean I don’t like hearing other people’s opinions on my patterns.  I love to see the modifications and color choices people make.  It often opens my eyes to new ideas and techniques I would never have thought of.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself? 
I just started publishing my designs about a year ago and through a lot of hard work, I am now at the point where it is a very lucrative business.  I am fortunate enough to have other sources of income, but this is definitely my favorite.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
First, find your voice.  What do you want to put out into the world?  If you stay true to your design aesthetic and love what you put out there, you will draw like minded people to your designs.  Don’t try to design what you think people want.  It won’t come off as genuine or unique.  Design what you’d want to wear, see and make. 

Second, spend time on the details.  Make sure your written patterns are easy to follow and complete.  Have your patterns tested and edited so you don’t have to send out multiple revisions. 

Third, set achievable goals and deadlines and always try to beat them.  Written goals and deadlines make me a better, more prolific designer than I would ever be without them. 

Fourth, don’t sell yourself short.  Designing is hard work even if it doesn’t always feel like it.  Your time, experience and creativity deserve to be compensated.  

Finally, as with any career, it has its good days and bad days, but if you love it enough to enjoy even the worst days, you can probably make it a success.  

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lunar-tide


Wednesday, August 14, 2013

It's All in the Details



Some of us care about little things that don't bother others. I'm referring here to bra straps that show. If you care, here's my way of keeping them under control. This treatment is used in high end clothing to keep straps hidden. I often use it on garments with wider than average necklines.

Sew a small snap (choose the portion with the opening) to the garment. Take a long strand of thread folded in half and put it through the eye of a needle, you now have four strands of yarn. Knot the end, anchor it on the garment and make a crochet chain of thread. You can use a small crochet hook or your fingers to make the chain. Make sure that the length of the chain will not extend past the edge of the garment when it is folded back to the original half of the snap. Fasten off the chain and sew the other side of the snap to the end. 

If you are adding this on a garment that has narrow straps instead of sleeves, anchor the chain on the outside edge. Sew one half snap to the inside (neck) edge. Add the other side of the snap to the end of the chain. This will create a tunnel to hold the strap.

When you put the garment on, trap your bra strap inside the chain and join the two halves of the snap to hold it in place.


Your bra strap will be where I've inserted the pen when the snap is fastened.


Monday, August 12, 2013

Taking Accurate Measurements



I found an interesting video here on taking measurements. It covers assessing front and back differences, shoulder slope, armhole depth and neck width. I own the Hurth ruler that is shown in the video and have found it to be very handy to keep the angles in place while measuring. You can do the same thing with two hard rulers if you have an assistant to help you. I have another method for measuring armhole depth here.



Friday, August 9, 2013

An Interview with Kath Kilburn Of Three Bags Full



Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.

You can find Kath here and here on Ravelry.

 
Tell me how you got into the business of running a yarn store? 
I flirted with the idea of opening a yarn store over twenty years ago in the same building our shop is in now. Then I found I was pregnant... After bringing up the family and many years working in a variety of part-time jobs, I re-visited the idea. I’m pleased now that I had all the experience from the other jobs in-between.

How long have you been in business? 

Three years.

Do you run the store by yourself or do you have employees, if you do how many people work at your shop? 

I run the shop myself. My husband, who’s retired, helps occasionally in the shop and is also invaluable in posting web orders, collecting stock and doing a host of other behind the scenes jobs.



How did you choose the yarns that you carry in your shop? 
I aim to stock a variety of yarns at a good range of price points. There’s another shop in town which sells acrylic, so I concentrate on wools and wool mixes as well as cotton and alpaca. We stock mostly classic yarns, but try to also have something a bit different.

What have done to create a sense of community in your store? 

We have two knit groups running weekly and we’ve hosted knitathons, workshops, charity events, a yarn tasting...

What is the biggest lesson running a yarn shop has taught you? 

That I'm not a very business-oriented person!



What is your favorite part of what you do running the shop? 
Serving people and the inevitable chats about wool and projects.

We've seen many cycles in the yarn industry of the market increasing and then falling again. What are your thoughts on where things might be headed now? 

Knitting and crochet are both definitely on the up! Locally we also have weaving classes and many people are showing an interest in spinning. At the same time, there’s the grassroots move to use smaller, independent shops rather than the big chains. So, we’re definitely in an improving phase. But things have changed. People don’t knit for economy now so much as for pleasure and entertainment. How brilliant is it to have a hobby that is reasonably priced (per hour) and at the same time allows you to produce a series of virtually unique, high quality garments, gifts or whatever you choose?

Did you do a formal business plan? 

Yes. The man at the bank looked at it for about two seconds.

Do you have a mentor? 

No, not really.




 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated? 
I have my own personal business model but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone because, if we’re judging by the profits, it’s not hugely successful. We don’t even have a till.

Did you take any courses in how to run a business before you opened? 

I attended a local Silver Entrepreneurs course, which was interesting and helpful to some extent.

What impact has the Internet had on your business? 

We opened the webshop about a year after the bricks and mortar shop. It means we’re always open, which is fantastic – I love the feeling that the online shop’s doing the work for us while we sleep. But other aspects of the web are also helpful – ravelry, for instance, offers so much information and help, and Knitty and several other sites with free patterns are wonderful for knitters.

How do you maintain your life/work balance? 
I don’t. I’m pretty one-dimensional! It’s something I’m working on... 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself? 
I was able to take a small salary from the shop after being open two and a half years.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in running a yarn store? 

Unless prospective yarn store owners have a sizable chunk of money that they can invest, I think I’d be advising starting small – either as a concession in a bigger shop or as a mobile yarn shop or online while working part-time at a day job - just some way that doesn’t involve committing yourself wholeheartedly to a huge rent on a long lease before you know if the idea’s a goer.

Kath has written an ebook on opening a yarn shop. You can find it here.



Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Knitting for Hot Days

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-katherine-corrigan-tunic

When I was knitting for myself in the past I usually switched to hot weather yarns as soon as the temperature went up. Now I'm often thinking ahead to the next season. Thank goodness for air conditioning as my current project is worsted weight alpaca, gorgeous but very warm as the garment grows in size. 

I have noticed recently that sales of my winter projects have increased in the Southern Hemisphere so perhaps I should be thinking more globally instead of seasonally?

I've added photos and links to my summer pattern releases. Both are worked bottom up, in the round, with no seaming. I've worn them frequently this summer. My one disappointment is that they are garments that look better on a body than on a mannequin. I'm trying to sort out exactly why, as it happens the other way with some garments. Sometimes it is due to the fit. My mannequin is smaller than me so occasionly I pad the bust line out. She has very small hips so the bamboo tunic falls in a little more than it would on a real body. I love that one on me and I suspect it will look great on bodies with a fuller hip especially if they customize the length above or below their widest hip measurement. The bamboo has a fabulous drape and lays flat to the body without adding extra visual weight which works well on plus figures.
 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-diana-maberly-top
The garment above is hand dyed cotton. I'm very happy with how the camera did capture the variation in colour. The mannequin in this case does not capture how flattering the neckline is. I think that may be due to the lack of arms to fill out the sleeves.

I do think that the advantage of a mannequin in choosing patterns for the knitter is we are less influenced by the art and mood of the photo. We are therefore more focused on the real properties of the garment and better able to assess the potential effect on our own unique bodies. What do you think?

Monday, August 5, 2013

How to Cast on Large Numbers of Stitches



At a recent knit night there was a lengthy conversation about problems with cast ons that require a lot of stitches. Many knitters said they wouldn't knit a project with a very high number of stitches in the cast on because it was too difficult to get it right??? Everyone seemed to have a different take on how accurate you should be. Quite a few knitters cast on more stitches then they need, just in case they counted wrong, and then they decrease the extras at the end of the first row. 

I have my own method. I don't like counting all of the stitches at the end of casting on as they tend to be so crowded on the needle it's very difficult to be accurate. I use extra markers and cast on in groups. In this case I need 298 stitches. I have a k1 selvedge at each end and 296 stitches of k2, p2 rib. I cast on 1 stitch, place a marker, (cast on 48 stitches, place a marker) six times, cast on 8 stitches, place a marker, cast on 1 stitch. I count each segment as I cast on. Then I recount before moving onto the next segment. I leave those additional markers in until I complete the first row. My reason for doing that and for placing them as a multiple of four stitches is to confirm each segment is k2, p2. If I run out of stitches before the next segment marker I know I've goofed and I only need to check one segment to find my error. (Unless I made 2 mistakes in one segment. In that case it's time to put your knitting down and take a break!) The segments could be of any number of stitches as long as they match up with the stitch multiples. You can use as many markers as you want. 

I'm curious, what methods do you use to get an accurate cast on in this situation?