The Fudge Factor Part 2

Continuing on with my topic from last Wednesday. I'm going to work with specific examples. To keep things simple, I'm going to use whole numbers wherever I can. You may be dealing with fractions so you will need a calculator to be as accurate as possible.

Example 1: Converting to DK (Yarn Weight Number 3) from Worsted weight yarn (Yarn Weight Number 4). Both yarns are 100% wool with good stitch definition. The swatch shows the stitch pattern is attractive when worked in a smaller scale. DK is a lighter weight yarn so less ease is required. To achieve the same look of the original garment, when less ease is required, it means it is safe to round down, when adjusting fractional numbers.

Your Gauge DK: 22 stitches, 28 rows = 4 inches.

Original Gauge (the pattern) Worsted: 18 stitches, 24 rows = 4 inches.

Stitches 22 ÷ 18 = 1.22

Rows 28 ÷ 24 = 1.17

Example 2: Converting to Worsted weight yarn (Yarn Weight Number 4) from DK (Yarn Weight Number 3). Both yarns are 100% wool with good stitch definition. The swatch shows the stitch pattern is attractive when worked in a larger scale. Worsted is a heavier weight yarn so more ease is required. To achieve the same look of the original garment, when more ease required, it means it is safe to round up, when adjusting fractional numbers.

Your Gauge in Worsted: 18 stitches, 24 rows = 4 inches.

Original Gauge (the pattern) DK: 22 stitches, 28 rows = 4 inches.

Stitches 18 ÷ 22 = .82

Rows 24 ÷ 28 = .86

To compare to the more common way of calculating ...

To get the cast on for a 20 inch garment back, the calculation is:

DK            20 inches x 5.5 = 110 stitches

Worsted    20 inches x 4.5 = 90 stitches

Fudge Factor Method

90 stitches (worsted) x 1.22 (the fudge factor) = 109.8 stitches

110 stitches (DK) x .82 (the fudge factor) = 90.2 stitches

Continuing with Example 2, to convert the pattern, work through it section by section. Everywhere the instructions give a stitch number, multiply the number by the Fudge Factor. If the pattern instructions are to cast on 110 stitches, multiply 110 x .82 the result is 90 stitches for the cast on. The conversion can be to a higher or lower stitch number, it is simply a comparison ratio of achieved gauge to the original gauge.

Next, do the same thing with the row gauge. Divide your row gauge by the pattern row gauge to get the conversion ratio. In this example Rows 24 ÷ 28 = .86. Everywhere the pattern tells you to knit rows you multiply by the fudge factor. In many cases, the pattern will give you a measurement instead of a number so no calculations are required. The more complex the original design, the more complicated the conversion process will be.

Proportional Relationships

If you are converting a pattern with multiple elements, do consider how the changes will impact the overall design. Changes of more than one or two stitches or rows per inch will affect panel widths and the size of motifs in a significant way. If you are reproducing an intarsia or fair isle design, you must consider the changes in motif size. Each will be larger or smaller according to your conversion ratio and, the garment will look very different from the original.

Designs with a single all over stitch pattern will not be impacted. However you should review band widths and lengths for potential adjustment.

Stitch repeats

Once you have your new stitch numbers calculated they may require adjustment to match up with stitch multiples in the pattern.

Example: 

Your gauge in Worsted requires a 90 stitch cast on.

Original pattern gauge in DK required a 110 stitch cast on.

Pattern repeat is a multiple of 6, with 2 selvedge stitches. In DK 110 stitches - 2 = 108 ÷ 6 = 18

In Worsted 90 stitches - 2 = 88 ÷ 6 = 14.66.  Adjust the number to a whole repeat of:

6 x 14 = 84 add 2 selvedge stitches equals a cast on of 86 stitches

or

 6 x 15 = 90 add 2 selvedge stitches equals a cast on of 92 stitches.

Using a heavier yarn means more ease is required therefore I would recommend taking the stitch numbers up to correct for stitch multiples in this situation.

Part 3 will be posted next Wednesday. I'll discuss sleeve adjustments and how to recalculate yarn amounts.

Part 1 can be found here.http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/10/the-fudge-factor-part-1.html

Part 3 can be found here. 

Customizing Sweater Patterns

Glenna C. has been running a great series on her blog called "On the subject  of sweaters". It's a 6 part series that I highly recommend. 

I was particularly interested in her measurements which Glenna listed as: "I am a 5’9″ woman with a 37″ bust, 42″ hip, 16″ cross-shoulder measurement, and prefer a length of 24 ins for most fitted sweaters, and a 19-20″ sleeve. These are the key pieces of information I go in with when it comes to pattern modification."

Glenna  and I met for lunch recently and used the opportunity to get a photo of the two of us together.

Most knitters choose their size based on their bust measurement. Would you believe that we would most likely start with the same size? I am a 5’2″ woman with a 38″ bust, 36″ hip, 14″ cross-shoulder measurement, and prefer a length of 22.5 ins for most fitted sweaters, with a 16″ sleeve. 

Would you have looked at this photo and realized we would most likely start with the same size?
 

An Interview with...Alex Tinsley

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/alextinsley/brimley

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.  


You can find Alex here and here on Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

I usually start with a stitch or technique I want to explore, or some design element that I want to design around, and just sort of... play around with it and see what happens! 

 

What is your favourite knitting technique?

I'm not quite sure what you mean by technique, but I'll say.... continental, in the round, haha. 

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stripe-your-fancy

 
Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I actually wrote a big post about this in my "other" blog a little while ago: http://www.cafblog.com/2012/07/steal-like-artist.html

 

To sum: every artist or creative person is building off the ones before him/her. Even if you shelter yourself and try never to look at another knitting designer's work, you will still be exposed to fashion as a fact of everyday life (unless, I guess, you're in a nudist colony and avoid all media, but then I'm not sure who you're knitting for!) There's nothing wrong with being influenced by other designers, just as long as you're taking that influence, injecting your own mojo into it, and letting it grow into something new and distinctly "yours". 

 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I'm not super familiar with this controversy, maybe because I self-publish for the most part and can say whatever I want in my patterns, haha. I try to have a little bit of faith in the competence of my customers. I don't over-explain common techniques and where there's a choice to be made, I trust them to make it- for instance, for "make 1" I will usually give them a link to a site with some increases and let them use their favorite, unless it really needs to be a particular one. 

 

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I knit all my own samples- I design as I go, so unless I was having a second sample made, using sample knitters really wouldn't work for me. I have a healthy handful of folks who enjoy testing my patterns, so when I need a tester I usually float it out there and see who's interested... I wouldn't say they were "working for me" though, at least not on an ongoing basis. 

 

Did you do a formal business plan?

I've tried writing them, just as a helpful exercise, but....no. My plan is pretty simple: put out patterns. Keep putting out patterns. At the moment I'm working on a book (link: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/alextinsley/doomsday-knits-projects-for-the-apocalypse-and-aft ) so that's a bit of break in routine. 

 

Do you have a mentor?

Not formally, though the community of designers on Ravelry and Twitter are wonderfully helpful people who have always readily given advice whenever I (or anyone else) needs it. 

 

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I guess the business model of most designers (at least those who primarily self-publish) is pretty similar (put out patterns. Keep putting out patterns,) but I've never really looked at one person and tried to emulate their model. 

 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

Without the Internet, my business would not exist, period. I only recently started doing paper patterns (through Deep South, my distributor). I started out selling my patterns on Etsy, moved to Ravelry when they showed up (and now Craftsy too.) If there was no Internet I'd probably be doing something else entirely. 

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/salad-wristers

 

 

Do you use a tech editor?

Not on every pattern, sometimes I just use testers if the design is very simple. I have a well-worn template and most of my patterns are one-sized so it's not always necessary. I'm starting to move towards garments for the upcoming book and those definitely will require tech editing. 

 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

There's supposed to be a balance? Haha. Honestly I'm kind of bad at that...or at least bad at the division. I drift between work and Facebook and snack time and playing with the dogs and back again all day long. I answer work emails when I'm out at dinner and play games on my phone in the middle of editing a pattern. All of my social media identities are both personal and professional. When I need to relax, I put on a dumb TV show and knit (which, technically, counts as work!) I try to give myself the day off whenever my husband has a day off (once a week, usually) but I usually end up slipping a little work in anyway. 

 

How do you deal with criticism?

If it's constructive, I try to swallow my pride and see if what they're saying holds any water (for example, if someone's found an error in my pattern, obviously that needs to be fixed!) If they're just being mean or offering totally unhelpful criticism, I pretty much just grumble under my breath, give my computer the finger, and move on. You can't please everyone all of the time, and more often than not, someone who hates what they made from your pattern is probably more frustrated about their own knitting ability/yarn choice/the fact that they ignored the gauge completely... after all, they liked your design enough to make it in the first place, right?

 

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

Ha! I'll let you know. If it weren't for my husband I'd probably be living in a rented room that costs $200 a month with a bunch of grad students, haha. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

First, get ready to work a lot for very little money. Don't quit your day job right away. If you've got anyone to support besides yourself, or you're accustomed to a certain standard of living... consider the fact that you might never be able to quit your day job. There are a few knitting rock stars out there who might make a reasonable salary, but the market is chock full of new designers (and free patterns) and it is definitely tough! 

Secondly, learn everything you can before you start. Read about the business side. Practice the knitting side. Use other people's patterns so you can get a feel for the jargon and layout, and find out what you like and don't like about the way other people write. Obtain a good camera and learn how to use it. Make your first entrance into the professional side really impressive. If your first pattern is amazing, people will take notice, and you never get a second chance to make a first impression. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kilter

The Fudge Factor Part 1

When I worked in my local yarn shop, we often had customers coming to us for help in a specific situation. The knitter wanted to use a pattern and work in a gauge different to the one the pattern was written for. There were various reasons for this. Sometimes the knitter wanted to use yarn in their stash of a different weight. Sometimes the yarn in the pattern was no longer available. Sometimes they loved a pattern and hated the yarn it showcased. Sometimes they just couldn't match the gauge in the suggested yarn but still wanted to use it.

Most experienced knitters can easily rework the numbers on basic patterns that include good schematics. Some just knit a different size if their gauge is slightly off the pattern gauge. They do this by calculating their stitch gauge per inch multiplied by the width measurement desired and then they choose the size closest to the measurement they need. They use the length measurements of the size they really want. However in a yarn shop we see customers bringing in vintage patterns and patterns that do not include a schematic. Occasionally we see a pattern with schematics with only bare bones measurements that don't give enough detail for conversion. Periodically we will be presented with a pattern that has a unique form of construction and no schematic at all. Other knitters run into challenges when they get to areas of shaping such as armholes, sleeve caps and necklines. Bands and other sections where the knitting has intersections of stitches and rows can also prove to be problematic.

Knitters are looking for simple advice; in a short and sweet format. My peers and I all enjoyed assisting knitters with this but we all took a cautious approach as the process to make the conversions I'll review is not difficult, but it does require careful consideration when applied to specific patterns. Details need to be considered that can't be covered in a short surface level examination of the pattern. I'd like to mention here that complex and difficult are two very different things. Complex processes can be broken down into a set of very simple actions. Very experienced knitters often perform these steps so quickly, it appears magic is in play to the novice knitter.

It is important to determine just what feature in the target pattern is calling to you. This is necessary to ensure you reproduce that feature in a manner consistent with the original. If it is the stitch pattern, a swatch in your chosen yarn will tell you if it is still as appealing in a smaller or larger format. More importantly, will the stitch pattern show in a yarn of a different colour or texture? Remember, your substitution can yield better results than the original yarn a pattern has been executed in. Yarns for patterns are chosen for a variety of reasons which include editorial considerations, availability and marketing. It is entirely possible you will choose a yarn more appropriate to the project or for your preferences.

Ease considerations are critical to successful garments so they need to be evaluated carefully. The concept of ease refers to the additional fabric included above the body measurements to allow for comfort and movement. It is the space between the garment and your body. It is also a design feature which varies according to the fashion of the current time and can change greatly according to personal preference. Ease is a ratio so the amount required increases with sizing. A large man’s garment will therefore require perhaps six inches of ease as compared to three inches in a child’s garment in the same yarn and silhouette. The weight of the fabric is crucial when determining the amount of ease required. The thicker and or stiffer the fabric, the more ease required. A soft fabric with drape will flatter with a small amount of ease while a thick knit will require a greater amount of ease to flatter the body. Garments meant to be worn on top of another require more ease for comfort.

When we knit, we create fabric.  We create this fabric stitch by stitch and row by row. We call the mathematics behind the fabric the gauge, and, as we all know, if we ignore gauge we won’t be able to produce the garment in our pattern.

There is however, a way of substituting yarns of a different gauge into a given design. It is referred to as the “conversion ratio” or “fudge factor". As always, you must start with an accurate gauge swatch.

Many knitters get stitch gauge and then are unable to match row gauge. If the fabric created is acceptable, understanding the variation can help the knitter make the necessary adjustments. It is possible to use the fudge factor for only row gauge adjustments and correct the shaping differences changes in row gauge create.

I remember how to calculate the ratio with a knitter’s mnemonic of “Y - O”. It’s a short form familiar to knitters and reinterpreted in this application as “your” gauge divided by the “original” gauge.

The basic steps to converting a pattern are:

·   Consider the impact fibre changes will have on the end result.

·   Think about ease requirements, are they impacted by the yarn substitution?

·   Find your gauge and the gauge used in the published pattern. 

·   Calculate the two conversion ratios, stitch and row. The mnemonic is Y - O, your gauge divided by the original gauge.

·   Convert the rows and stitches in the published pattern to the rows and stitches you need to knit. Round off fractional numbers.

·   Analyze stitch repeats and re balance numbers accordingly.

·   Verify the accuracy of curves and angles using knitter's graph paper.

To find the stitch conversion ratio: take your stitch gauge ÷ original stitch gauge

To find the row conversion ratio: take your row gauge ÷ original row gauge

Part 2 is here.http://knittingrobin.blogspot.ca/2012/10/the-fudge-factor-part-2.html

 Part 3 can be found here.

Tips from Fashion Bloggers

Correct fit is a topic that I address frequently. Standards do shift and change over time as fashion changes. 

Angie at youlookfab (a fashion blog) has written an interesting post identifying three different types of fit. You can find it here. It is not specific to hand knits however her posts all relate to developing personal style. 

I definitely am focused on tailored fit. Years of sewing suits to wear at the office set a very clear standard for the clothing I want to create. I love the look of over-sized fit but experience has shown me that it just does not work with my body proportions. When you read the three definitions think about what is your preference and why. Once you pin that down it is much easier to choose patterns for future garment projects by always comparing them back to your preferred fit.

We can learn and apply much from these mainstream fashion bloggers. Here as a bonus link is a post about "How to Wear a Chunky Knit Sweater" from another of my favourite bloggers, Imogen of Inside Out Style

An Interview with...Natalie Servant

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mirage-3

  

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.  


You can find Natalie here and here on Ravelry.

Editor's note: Natalie also works in collaboration with a hand dyer (Yvonne) and a jewellery maker (Francine). You can read those interviews here and here.

Where do you find inspiration?

My initial inspirations came from Art Deco and I think that's something I'll keep returning to. I have also taken inspiration from nature and from textures I've seen in garments while shopping. I'm a big fan of certain types of architecture and my husband has been accustomed to me trying to identify a particular bridge or building while watching TV. I take pictures of a paused program or use Google street view to see more of what captured my interest!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/strand-of-pearls

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Lace is something that I really love, but I'm not afraid to try other things. I used to hate ribbing but now I find it soothing. I try to figure out how best to represent a design idea I have in knitting so I use whatever technique suits the situation.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I don't always have the time to check out everything new, but I'm not overly worried about being influenced. I know what I like and I've got an internal standard of innovation that I stick to. I like keeping an eye on what is new to see where the trends are leading. I do get jealous moments of "I wish I'd thought of that first!" 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/eiffel-tower-shawl

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?

I must have missed the memo about this controversy. When I write patterns I try to include enough information so that a determined knitter who hasn't tackled the techniques involved before has a great shot of being successful. Sure, they may have to look some things up, but the basic information is readily available. I love working from charts but because I know other knitters would rather work from written instructions, I include them as well. 

I don't want to bore experienced knitters, but I don't want to exclude or shut out people who are starting out and want to make something that they like.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I get a lot of help from a wonderful set of test knitters. I use at least two for each design and  I make sure that any variations (written vs. charted instructions, yarn weight, sizes, shapes, options) are covered. People interpret instructions in different ways so lots of eyes on a pattern help to catch problem areas.

  

Do you have a mentor?

Yes! When I'd just started out and I was feeling uncharacteristically bold I approached Michelle Miller (aka Fickle Knitter, http://www.fickleknitter.com). She was very active on Ravelry and was putting out a lot of patterns and innovating in her business. She's very graciously allowed me to pick her brain on any number of topics. It's great to have someone to go to with questions that I am not comfortable putting out for all to see.

  

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fast-forward

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

The Internet is what has made my business possible. I have an engineering degree and my career has been as a software tester. I was working full time when I started designing, giving me a limited amount of design time. With sites like Ravelry and Patternfish, I was able to get started with just one pattern. I couldn't be as successful as I am without the Internet.

These days I'm involved in promoting my business in a number of ways on the Internet, both on pattern sites and through social media. I've been able to reach people worldwide because of our common interest in knitting. 

Do you use a tech editor?

Absolutely. A tech editor is an excellent help to look over the pattern's consistency, math, wording, etc. My test knitters catch many issues, but a tech editor always finds something else that will improve the end result.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

It depends on the day! I've got two kids in primary school. I also do contract work in high tech during the school year. If I've got a knitting deadline, the laundry gets done, but the floors aren't always clean. And I multitask. I knit while I wait for the kids to get out of school or when we're at the park. I've also taken up spinning. Knitting used to be my hobby, and now it's at least partially work. Spinning is my no-pressure hobby, and it's also helped me understand a lot more about yarn and knitting. 

How do you deal with criticism?

It depends on the situation. If there's a problem with a pattern, it's got to be addressed. Sometimes I take a step back before responding to make sure I'm being objective. If it's a matter of personal preference and taste, then that's life. It would be boring if we all felt the same way about everything. If it's something that could be detrimental to my business, then I'd act if it there was a reasonable solution.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I'm not there. I don't know if that's a reasonable goal for me. I love to knit, I enjoy designing, and I think I've got something to share. I'm glad to be in a position where it's not critical that my design work supports me.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Make sure it stays fun. Be professional. Learn as much as you can about everything to do with your business. Meet deadlines. Set expectations for your business and check in regularly to see if you're meeting them.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/childerics-bees

Two Years Ago......

I did my very first interview two years ago with Fiona Ellis. You can find it here if you missed it. Posted below is her design from a recent Vogue. Gorgeous!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/23-off-center-top