Should you knit your Front Bigger than your Back?

My answer to this question is absolutely yes, if it gives you a better fitting garment. 

It's the difference between what is sometimes referred to as refined fit vs. standard fit or simple fit. In the sewing world refined fit refers to making the front bigger than the back of a garment. Some of us have bigger fronts. If the garment is the same measurement on both front and back the fabric will be stretched horizontally across the torso on the front. It may hang loosely on the back. If the garment is pulled horizontally on the front it cannot stretch vertically to create the extra length needed for a curvy bust line or tummy if the fullness is lower down. Knitting patterns normally have equal sized fronts and backs. Read this old post here on how to change to refined fit.

I knit my own garments this way and years ago I knit a vest for my Dad to accommodate his fuller front and very flat backside. When you don't adjust this way you end up with a garment which fits around the body circumference but has side seams pulled towards the front of the body. They may hang straight but be pulled forward or they may be pulled forward only where the body protrudes appearing to be crooked at the sides even when knit straight. At the same time the shoulders may be too large because the size knit is based on the bust measurement.

Paprika patterns has a great post here on how the shaping changes for a no dart pattern to accommodate a larger bust. Step 7 is essentially what I am doing when I knit for myself. The front is larger in the torso area but the shoulders and armholes are a smaller size.  I'd like you to notice the side seam is slightly extended at the armhole. I do this by casting off some of the extra stitches I added into the front. I get rid of a few more in the neckline making the number of stitches on the shoulders match at the front and back.
 
 

An Interview with...Cynthia Levy

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/resonator

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Cynthia here and here on Ravelry. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hidden-gem-scarf

Where do you find inspiration?
I find inspiration from a variety of sources.  The natural landscape of the Northwest Territories provides an endless supply of inspiration.  Precambrian Cable Socks were inspired by the rock of the Canadian shield and Tundra Trails Socks were designed while on a trip to the barren-lands.   I also draw ideas from my library of stitch dictionaries and knitting books.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I love all knitting techniques, but my favorite is cables.  There's just something magical about the way that simply reordering stitches can create such intricate textured designs.  I enjoy colourwork and lace but always seem to gravitate back to cables.  Those cute little cable needles, of which I have amassed quite a collection, might also be part of the attraction!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/precambrian-cable-socks

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I don't actively at look at the work of other designers as a source of ideas or inspiration.  I do knit a lot of projects other than my own designs, so I spend a lot of time browsing patterns on Ravelry and elsewhere.  I expect that some concepts or ideas naturally filter into my brain but it's not a conscious effort.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pebbled-pathway-fingerless-mitts

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I knit all each of my own patterns while developing the design, so I'd have to admit that I'm my own primary sample/test knitter.  Most of my patterns are for socks or gloves, so it's easy and efficient to knit the first while working out the design, and to then knit the second as a test of the pattern itself.  I then use test knitters, drawn from my own Ravelry group or from the testing groups on Ravelry, to test each size of the pattern.  Most of my patterns have been tested by at least 5 knitters other than myself.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tundra-trails-socks

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Work/life balance is not something that I expect to achieve any time soon!  I have a very demanding full-time job and too many other interests and activities to count.  My idea of balance is to try to juggle deadlines as best I can.  I'd love to find a way to manufacture time but I'm not good at slowing down to relax.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pit-railway-socks

How do you deal with criticism?
I try to deal with criticism in a positive fashion by examining the facts and making any necessary corrections or adjustments cheerfully and promptly.  I do wish that knitters would place a bit more faith in designers before questioning pattern instructions.  Mistakes inevitably creep into patterns occasionally, despite rigorous editing and testing, but the designer usually has a valid reason for unusual instructions and knitters should give them a chance before expressing doubt.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I can't imagine ever being able to support myself from by design work!  That's the purpose of my full-time job, which is in a field that will always be more lucrative than knitting or any of my other crafts.  My pattern sales provide enough income to cover the cost of pattern development and that's all I realistically expect.  I design because I enjoy the process and like sharing my patterns with other knitters.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/switch-point-socks

What’s next for you?
Lots more knitting!  I'm looking forward to someday having more time to knit, spin, weave and do all the various things for which I've acquired a stash of equipment and materials.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/vertigo-fingerless-gloves

In the category of this made me smile - Wonder Woman

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wonder-woman-wrap

I couldn't ignore this trend any longer. I keep seeing this shawl so I went looking to see what other Wonder Woman knitting there is. The shawl was just published and already has 140 projects on Ravelry. As always I am impressed by the ingenuity of knitters. 
 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wonder-woman-jumper

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wonder-woman-2

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wonder-woman-scarf

And for a more literal translation take a look at this one, the project pages are not to be missed! 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wonder-woman-costume

 

Reminder - My Summer Sale is on until August 31

Special Promotion

From now until August 31 2017, if you post a project page with a photo of any of my patterns shown as a completed project, I’ll give you a promo code for a free pattern. You can choose any of my patterns that are available on Ravelry. Just email or PM me and give me the project page link or the details, your Ravelry name, email etc. I’ll send the promo code to your email. Happy Knitting!

An Interview with...Alexis Adrienne

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/delicata-4

Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.

You can find Alexis here and here on Ravelry. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/isnt-she-lovely

Where do you find inspiration?
I derive my greatest inspiration from gorgeous natural fibres, like baby alpaca, llama, silk, and Merino wool. When it comes to designing, these yarns sort of "speak to me", and tell me what they want to become.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
The three-needle bind-off. It's such an effortless way to create a neat and tidy join.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I work in a yarn store, so I frequently help knitters execute patterns that aren't my own. I don't mind at all. It helps me stay current with trends in shape, colour etc. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/quick-like-a-snow-bunny

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
So far, I've done it all myself, but I design accessories that focus on minimalism--to showcase the natural fibres. If I ever make the leap to garment design, I will definitely use test knitters.

Did you do a formal business plan?
No. Mine is more a "flying by the seat of her pants" kind of plan.

Do you use a tech editor?
No. I've looked into in the past, but it has always been cost-prohibitive, relative to my expected return from pattern sales. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/seasons-5

How do you deal with criticism?
Not as well I'd like, to be honest. I'm a sensitive person, and my feelings get hurt easily. My challenge has been to separate the useless, judgmental criticism, from the helpful, constructive type. When I can recognize criticism as constructive, I'm more able to see it as an opportunity to improve, and not take it so personally.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I'll let you know if/when that happens! Knitwear design is still a supplement to my income. 

http://www.coldcomfortknits.com/the-glen-abbey-hat.html

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Love your work. Because it's a lot of work! Is knitting your true passion? If not, keep searching. If so, commit yourself fully. Get connected, learn new techniques; never stop working and growing. Just be sure to know in your heart whether knitting is your hobby, or your career. It's an important distinction to make.

What’s next for you?
I'm excited to have just launched www.coldcomfortknits.com. It's an online resource I created to share my love of knitting, and my belief in the power of "handmade" with the world. It's small now, but as it grows it will contain and increasing number of my designs--offered as free patterns--plus tutorials, interesting features, links to other cool resources, and much more! 

PS: my Instagram handle is now @coldcomfortknits, if you want to "stay in the loop", LOL. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pearly-blooms

 

European versus North American Standards in Knitting

I’ve been knitting so long that I don’t remember learning. I have just always knit. For the longest time the only knitters I knew were related to me. I was in my mid-twenties when I first took a knitting class. It was a design class taught by a machine knitter who had a fashion school background. There was no Internet so we learned new skills by using books, magazines and classes. I was doing a lot of sewing as well and that's when I took pattern drafting training. Back then there wasn't the wonderful online knitting community that we have now. One of the things I was told was that European knitters were much more advanced than North American knitters. The story was they learned more about garment construction in school so they had a better overall understanding. I heard it from someone who did an internship at a UK yarn company. I also heard it from friends who visited Europe and brought home the single size patterns.  These were compared to our three size magazine patterns. If you compare those to modern six to eight size patterns it's pretty astounding how patterns have shifted in the amount of information they provide. Since I've been doing the interview series some of the European designers have mentioned they needed to build their pattern writing skills to be competitive in the North American market due to different standards.

I never really took this commentary seriously because I heard it in the sewing world as well. Many sewers were convinced European pattern fit was superior to North American and there was always talk about Asian garment makers who worked without patterns directly on the fabric. 

I added my patterns to the LoveKnitting site when Ravelry was scrambling to deal with changes in E.U. taxation. I got sales there immediately so now I continue to post all my new patterns there. 

Well surprise, surprise, my pattern sales there show something really interesting. I'm selling way more garments than accessories on their site. (It's in reverse on Ravelry.) When I look at my shawl pattern sales on LoveKnitting my most complicated lace pattern has the highest sales. 

So now I'm struggling to interpret this. Is it just about fashion? Shawls have been very popular here with first the lace craze and then the more colourful and textural versions of late. Is it about skills? Is that why more garment patterns are selling there? Are they really more confident or is it a more adventurous mindset? 

Any thoughts?

Stash-Down Results

Here's another example of the results of my ongoing Stash-Down.

It's been raining so much it Toronto that I struggled to get any photos at all. The sun came out for a few minutes so I started snapping. You can see the light changing fast in these. By the time I turned the mannequin around to do the back it was so dark I'm not bothering to include those shots. 

There won't be a pattern for this one but if you would like to create something like it first read this post for the tips and tricks. 

The sweater is worked top down so I could add in yarn if I needed to. I didn't. I did the sleeves bottom up because by then I realized I had more than enough yarn. In this case all the yarn is red, however the reds vary and I have multiple weights and fibres. Everything from lace to worsted weight as well as cashmere, silk, wool, and rayon to name just a few. The worsted was some Cascade 220 purchased for a hat and scarf and some Knit Picks which came to me by way of another friend's stash down. Some are leftovers from other projects and were of very small amounts. 

Do a swatch to define a gauge when mixing weights together. I used the needle size which I would normally use for a worsted yarn. I did the knit one row in each of three yarns trick and repeat. (Make sure the weights of the three yarns are all different.) Then I changed out yarns a few times. Make a bigger than 4 inch swatch. Block it. Pick a simple top down sweater which matches the gauge. Start knitting. 

Recently one of my friends found out I mix yarn bases and told me I was scaring her. Don't be scared! This works because each yarn is used in one row at a time. You can mix as long as you don't do any large areas in a single weight. If you do, it will revert to it's normal gauge. The fabric will drape. The hand is more like a silk or cashmere blend even though about 70% of what I used is 100% wool. 

I knit the length to about 3/4's of what I wanted before the band and then I put it on my mannequin for about 48 hours.  I had to take it off and do the neckline part way because it was stretching out too much to be sure about the overall length. Once I knit the neckband I got a much more accurate length. The armholes also looked a little sloppy but after I did the neckline I realized the sleeve seams were going to take care of them as well. I did a saddle shoulder which may have added to the stretch there. 

I did all the edges in one of the worsted weight yarns for consistency.