Wednesday, May 18, 2016
A Knotty Situation
I'm playing with some Noro yarn right now for an upcoming design. It's a yarn knitters either love or hate. Many object to the knots which occasionally turn up. I don't think there are many more knots than most yarns. I think the bigger issue is that the knots break the sequence of the colourway.
I rewound each ball onto my ball winder keeping my fingers on the yarn so I could break it whenever I found a knot. I do this with almost all yarn I use which is in balls for this reason. When I don't, I'm always sorry when a knot shows up close to the end of a row and I have to go backwards.
I didn't think to count before hand but most of my balls (seven out of ten ?) did not contain knots. I didn't find more than one knot in any of the balls. I had decided I would start my pieces in the same spot on the colour way. The balls never start at the same point so I rewound several balls slowly and wrote down the sequence. I got two slightly different sequences and one ball that completely skipped over several colours. I did have a customer when I worked in my LYS who was a Noro fan and she told me she occasionally found balls in reverse sequence. She also said she had given up on following the colour sequence because it was just too much trouble. I realized after playing around with the complete balls that while they mainly follow a sequence it isn't always exactly the same.
I spent a little time in the Nuts for Noro Ravelry group. There are a few knitters there who spend time making the sequences match but as some point out, it can be next to impossible unless you are working in the round. I found posts about colour runs in longer and shorter lengths and balls which just skip some colours completely.
I think I may just go Zen here, it is what it is and let it happen and not worry about how the colours align. It's more of a surprise that way and in the end they are all going to repeat somewhere in the garment.
Labels:
# knitting blogs,
A Knotty Situation,
Noro yarns
Monday, May 16, 2016
Deliberate Practice or Natural Talent?
I've been told on many occasions that some of us just have natural talent that others don't. I just don't buy that argument.
I'm reading Peak by Anders Ericsson and Robert Pool. Ericsson is the originator of the10,000 hours idea. Unfortunately he wasn't too happy with the way his work was distilled down to a sound bite. You may remember I have some issues around the sound bites of knitting myself. Here, here and here.
He feels that the concept of deliberate practice wasn't given enough attention. When most of us practice something, we often just do repetitions of the things we already do reasonably well. Deliberate practice is different. It's about working on the things you don't already do well. It's challenging and can be mentally exhausting. If you have ever spent a weekend at a knitting retreat you have probably realized how much effort goes into developing new skills and improving existing ones. At the end of every event I've been at, attendees speak about the mental overload they feel.
Taking the classes at a retreat is part of deliberate practice. Teachers help you set goals for learning by presenting you with a series of steps which can be broken down into discrete skills for you to practice. Deliberate practice is a big topic and I won't try to reduce it into a paragraph here. If you are interested in improving in any area of your life, you'd find the book an interesting read.
I think that part of the reason I've never lost interest in knitting is that I continue to have areas where I'd like to improve my skills and I see various techniques I'd like to try. Deliberate practice is just part of my knitting routine. On the other hand I always have a simple carry around project for relaxing with.
Friday, May 13, 2016
An Interview with...Ewelina Murach
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/breeze-14 |
Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.
You can find Ewelina here and here on Ravelry.
Where
do you find inspiration?
Everywhere:
I look out for patterns and colour combinations wherever I go. I
often have a camera with me and take photos of anything that seems
interesting: it can be a random pattern created by different colour
bricks, unusual angles in a building, or even a pattern created by
cracks in the pavement. I spend some time every week looking for
interesting images online – images of garments (not necessarily
knitwear), interesting patterns, shapes - it can be anything. I also
have several sketchbooks where I collect my ideas.
Sometimes
inspiration comes from yarn – I see a skein of yarn and immediately
know what I'm going to make. But that does not happen often – life
would be too easy that way.
Usually
the something that inspires me is just the starting point: I see a
stitch pattern or garment construction that grabs my attention or
need a particular kind of garment for my kids. Then comes swatching,
sketching and more swatching - and that is the process where I get
most ideas. Very often what comes out at the end has nothing to do
with the original idea, but that is what makes designing exciting.
What
is your favourite knitting technique?
I
like trying new techniques and tricks, but my firm favourite is lace
or lace combined with cables and stockinette stitch – I love the
fabric they produce and endless design possibilities they offer.
Recently I have also fallen in love with garter stitch, which I
avoided since the first scarf I made for my teddy bear at the age of
6, wrongly thinking garter stitch is for beginners only.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flower-sweater-adult-version |
How
did you determine your size range?
I
make the size range as wide as possible, but I stop at size 3X for
adults – I have found it really difficult to find test knitters
for sizes 2X and larger. I never really see finished projects in the
largest sizes, so I'm not sure there is a demand.
When
I design for kids, the size range depends on design elements used.
Sometimes a design is suitable for a full range of sizes from newborn
to 12 years, sometimes it is not. For example, a wide lace panel,
like the one I used in Leaf Lace Cardigan, would not work with a
raglan construction for baby sizes because it is too wide, so the
smallest size is 2 years. With some designs, I do not go higher than
8 years - a design that looks cute on a toddler, might not
necessarily appeal to a 12-year old.
Do
you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will
be influenced by their designs?
Yes,
I look at other designers' work all the time – because there are so
many awesome designs out there and you can learn so much. I believe
if you want to be a designer, you need to know what is happening in
the knitting world.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marigold-knit |
How
do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down”
patterns for knitters?
Patterns
should be detailed enough to give knitters enough information so they
can successfully complete a garment, without having to work stuff out
for themselves with a spreadsheet.
To
make my patterns more accessible, I used to include tutorials in my
early patterns, but I do not do it any more, instead I provide a list
of links to tutorials available on the web. I also list the skills
used in the pattern, so knitters can make their own decision whether
the pattern is at the right level for them.
When
I'm not sure how detailed my instructions should be, I use feedback
from my test knitters – I try to have test knitters of different
levels of experience, which gives me a picture of what knitters using
my patterns might find difficult.
How
many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it
all yourself?
I
always knit my own samples. This helps me to figure out pattern
details, and make sure my instructions work – I write the pattern
while I'm knitting. Sometimes things do not work the way I assumed
they would, and I have to make changes to the design. Only after I
have finished all tricky parts of my sample that require shaping or
changes in the stitch patterns, and I'm satisfied everything works, I
grade the pattern and have it tech edited and test knitted.
I
do not have a set group of test knitters, many change from project to
project, but there are several people who have tested most of my
designs. I usually have 1-2 test knitters per size, the biggest test
I have run had about 30 test knitters.
When
I work on a simple design, like a cowl, scarf or a hat that is not
very complex, I usually test it myself - although I might change this
in the future.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stiorra |
Did
you do a formal business plan?
I'm
not sure this can be called a business plan, but yes, I do have a
plan, which helps me to focus on my objectives and steps I need to
take to achieve them. I usually plan for 3 month periods. Without a
plan I would probably keep getting excited about new ideas, start new
designs and never finish most of them – as I used to do when
knitting was my hobby, not a job. Having a plan helps me to focus on
my priorities so I do not waste the little work time I have every
day. It also reminds me I need to sell my patterns, not only have fun
designing them, which is something I tended to forget until quite
recently.
Do
you have a mentor?
No,
I do not – but I have learnt a lot from my own mistakes. I used to
concentrate on designing only, forgetting I was creating products
that needed to sell – until I realized it was affecting my family
and I couldn't go on this way. At the moment I'm taking an online
course helping me with non-design aspects of running a business, such
as planning and getting things done. I also subscribe to Fizzle,
which is a brilliant site with lots of help and short courses on
different aspects of online business.
Do
you have a business model that you have emulated?
I'm
in the process of creating my own business model, one that will work
well for me and my family. There is no point copying someone else's
model if your context is different.
That
said, there are several designers I admire not only for their
designs, but also for their business model – one of them is Justyna
Lorkowska.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stormy-monday |
Do
you use a tech editor?
Yes,
my amazing tech editor, Rachel Brown, checks most of my patterns. The
exception are simple designs, like scarves, cowls or hats – I tech
edit them myself. I did a tech editing course run by
Joeli
Caparco
(www.joelicreates.com) a
few years ago, and even considered it as a career, but tech
editing for others would mean even less time for designing so the
idea was quickly abandoned. It was a brilliant experience though, and
it changed the way I write patterns.
How
do you maintain your life/work balance?
As
for many parents of young kids, who work from home, that's tricky. I
try to separate work and family as much as I can: I get up at 5 am to
have 2 hours without distractions: I work on patterns and reply to
emails and messages, than switch the computer off when my kids get up
around 7. After my daughter has gone to school, I look after my
17-month old son, and knit whenever he plays on his own – sometimes
it's 5 minutes at a time, sometimes he can keep himself occupied for
more than half an hour. I switch my computer on again when he has his
afternoon nap, and work for another 1-3 hours. In the evening, after
the kids have gone to bed, I only have enough energy left for 1-2
hours of knitting in front of TV. The evenings are the time when I
knit any tricky parts I need to concentrate on, that is why I usually
knit at least 2 projects at a time – something easy for the day
(like sleeves), something more complex in the evening. I work this
way 7 days a week.
To
maintain just a bit of balance and my sanity, I do not read emails at
weekends and have a lie-in (i.e. get up around 7, not 5). My working
space is separate from where I spend the rest of the day (except
knitting – I knit everywhere), and I do not read emails or go on
social media when I'm with my son.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunny-14 |
How
do you deal with criticism?
It
depends on the reason and the source of criticism. If it is
constructive criticism, I see it as feedback, not criticism, and a
learning opportunity that helps me to improve my work. Otherwise, I
ignore it – you can't please everyone.
How
long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I'm
not there yet, as I only work a few hours a day, but the money I earn
is a substantial addition to our family budget.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leaf-lace-cardigan-kids |
What
advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in
knitting?
Do
what you love and what makes you happy, but do not quit your day job
until you know you can support yourself from designing.
What’s
next for you?
Finishing
several patterns I started before I took my baby break in 2014-15.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flower-cardigan-5 |
Monday, May 9, 2016
Adjustable Shawls
Adjustable shawls are shawls which for reasons due to the mathematics of stitch repeats can be easily made smaller or larger. They are my favourite variety to design because they can be sized up or down based on the needs of the knitter or the amount of available yarn.
As usual there is a Ravelry group for lovers of this type of design.
You can get lots of ideas for shawls which fall into this category from the group. There's a long thread here listing many of them.
Why aren't all shawls designed this way you ask? It's usually due to the the size and shape of the stitch repeat. Which means sometimes gorgeous stitches don't get put into shawls if you are aiming for adaptability.
My Mary Westmacott Shawl is a good example of one which cannot be easily adjusted. It is created with the beautiful Oriel Lace stitch. I love it so much I used it in several projects for myself before I started designing.
It's a bottom up design and can be enlarged by adding additional repeats at the cast on. The wrinkle is that if a knitter does add repeats there will come a time when the chart runs out but you will still have stitches on your needle. If you are a confident knitter and can maintain the pattern while shaping you are fine and can just keep going. Before I wrote patterns I did this for myself often. I would have a chart of the stitch repeat and I wouldn't bother charting anything else. When I make a pattern to sell I want to give you good value for your money, so I chart out everything. That means less experienced knitters have the ability to work on more complicated designs which would be outside their skill set.
This pattern was designed to work with a single skein of
The entire shawlette is charted. It can easily be made larger by
repeating Charts 2 and 3 any number of times more before completing the
final chart for the border. The question is how do you calculate this based on your available yardage. I think I'll leave the answer and a few more examples of adjustable shawls for another post.
As usual there is a Ravelry group for lovers of this type of design.
You can get lots of ideas for shawls which fall into this category from the group. There's a long thread here listing many of them.
Why aren't all shawls designed this way you ask? It's usually due to the the size and shape of the stitch repeat. Which means sometimes gorgeous stitches don't get put into shawls if you are aiming for adaptability.
My Mary Westmacott Shawl is a good example of one which cannot be easily adjusted. It is created with the beautiful Oriel Lace stitch. I love it so much I used it in several projects for myself before I started designing.
![]() | ||
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-mary-westmacott-shawl |
It's a bottom up design and can be enlarged by adding additional repeats at the cast on. The wrinkle is that if a knitter does add repeats there will come a time when the chart runs out but you will still have stitches on your needle. If you are a confident knitter and can maintain the pattern while shaping you are fine and can just keep going. Before I wrote patterns I did this for myself often. I would have a chart of the stitch repeat and I wouldn't bother charting anything else. When I make a pattern to sell I want to give you good value for your money, so I chart out everything. That means less experienced knitters have the ability to work on more complicated designs which would be outside their skill set.
This pattern was designed to work with a single skein of
Mini Maiden, Handmaiden Fine Yarn.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-vivien-barnaby-shawlette |
Labels:
# knitting blogs,
Adjustable Shawls
Friday, May 6, 2016
An Interview with...Cheryl Niamath
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bellota |
Once a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting world.
You can find Cheryl here and here on Ravelry.
Where do you find inspiration?
Everywhere! Nature, architecture, people I know, people I see on the train, pictures in magazines, costumes in movies, characters in books, sometimes even stitch dictionaries!
What is your favourite knitting technique?
I just learned how to do a tubular cast-on and bind-off, and I'm very excited about them, but generally I'd say I get a lot of joy from knitting simple stitches (garter, stockinette, seed).
How did you determine your size range?
It depends. If I'm designing for publication, usually the editor will tell me what sizes she wants. If I'm working on a sweater for self-publication, I try to make it in at least six sizes. Either way, I use CYC standards.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sweet-jane |
Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I absolutely look at other designers' work--it would be hard not to, and it's inspiring. I think it's good to see what the "competition" is doing, as well. Once I spent a long time designing and knitting a baby blanket that I thought was going to be a huge hit. Turns out I had unknowingly re-created the Mitred Square blanket that had just been published in Mason Dixon Knitting. If I had done a little looking first, I would have saved myself a lot of time!
How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
Although I do have some very simple patterns for beginners, I think it's pretty clear that my patterns are meant for people who know how to knit. I provide instructions for any part of my patterns that is new/different/done in a non-standard way (and I try my best to make these instructions as clear and simple as possible), but otherwise assume that people who choose to make my patterns will understand what they're getting into. I include a list of abbreviations and techniques at the beginning of the pattern which should be a very good hint about what to expect when working on the project. I have occasionally received questions from people who are stuck on a basic knitting technique, and in those cases I suggest that the stuck person ask for help at their LYS or look for step-by-step instructions or videos online. Luckily I haven't been asked by any of my publishers to provide how-to-knit instructions along with my patterns because I think that would take skills that I don't have.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I do it myself.
Did you do a formal business plan?
No, but I know I should, and if I didn't have another job to support myself I would put more effort into this.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/anina |
Do you have a mentor?
Not really, but I've learned a lot from Anina Hansen, who owns Urban Yarns [http://www.urbanyarns.com/] here in Vancouver. I really admire her passion, knitting skills, and business sense. And I've learned so much from my mother, the composer Linda Niamath, who self-published her own music books before being signed by a major publishing house. She knew her music was worth getting out into the world, and thousands of young piano students have since learned her pieces and been inspired by her work.
Do you use a tech editor?
Yes! I think it would be irresponsible to offer patterns that hadn't been edited and checked for accuracy. Especially if I'm asking people to pay for them. They're going to spend money on the pattern and the yarn and invest their time in a project, so it better be correct!
How do you deal with criticism?
There are two kinds of criticism that I receive: constructive and nasty. Constructive criticism ("the stitch count on the sleeve cap seems to be off") is helpful and generally comes from people who want to help me improve my patterns and be a better designer, so it's great and I welcome it. Nasty criticism ("The sleeve cap is stupid! Why would anyone make this?") annoys me because I feel like the critic either deliberately wants to hurt my feelings or is bad at asking for help.
Worse for me than criticism, though, is disinterest. It's hard to stay positive when I spend months working on a design that I think is really cool, get great photos, have it edited, and release it to the world, then sell six or seven copies.
This probably has something to do with my lack of formal business plan, come to think of it.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fetching |
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I have the utmost respect and admiration for people who are able to support themselves by designing. I am not one of these people.
What’s next for you?
I have a pattern coming out in the First Fall issue of Knitty. After that, maybe I'll start working on a plan.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hacker |
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
Knitters - Stop the Perfectionist Judgement
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-belvedere-wrap |
I spent last Saturday at the Toronto Knitters Frolic in the Signature Yarns booth. It was a great day doing one of the things I enjoy most, talking to knitters.
Take a look at the wrap in the photo above, what catches your eye first?
Here's another version:
I tend to take in the whole piece first. I see how it looks on the body, I look at the colour and then probably the stitches used. Next I would consider how it's been constructed and perhaps the fibre of the yarn. Then I go for a touch, is it soft or silky, does the fabric drape or it is more substantial?
I spent a little time chatting with a knitter who was interested in it but she was very concerned about her ability to produce nice edges while working the shaping. She was frowning while we chatted. We discussed doing a practice swatch and correct blocking techniques. Both of which will definitely improve your results. I pointed out that she is likely to be the only person who will ever study the edges this intently. We just don't go around looking at other knitter's work from that critical standpoint.
We did end up talking mainly about trying to stop making negative judgements of our work. I found myself thinking about that conversation over the past few days because I believe it's a big problem for all creative types. Perfectionism is an easy trap to fall into because we want to set high standards on the quality of our work. However perfectionism isn’t the same as setting realistic high standards. It’s about setting impossible goals which kill the fun of creativity. It's about speaking to ourselves in a mean spirited way in which we would never do to someone else. So let's be kind to ourselves, strive to improve but at the same time honour our craft and be realistic about what good work is. And if you aren't sure ask another knitter for their tips and opinions. We are typically a group who are happy to share.
Monday, May 2, 2016
Mayfair Top - New Pattern Release
Here's the next pattern in my ongoing collaboration with Signature Yarns. We debuted this one at this past weekend's Toronto Knitters Frolic.
There are two versions; one in white cotton and the second in silver metallic rayon. Both are DK yarns which knit to the same gauge and are of course available in other colours.
I always think about garments and accessorizes in the way in which I would wear the item when I'm designing them. The cotton version is in a gorgeous tightly spun cotton with lots of sheen. I could see wearing it often in the summer with my skinny jeans or my cropped turquoise pants. If I knit it in a colour I'd be teaming it with white linen bottoms.
The rayon yarn is very drapey and the sheen of the metallic is subtle enough that you could dress it up or down very easily. It feels great against the body. Dressed down, I'd wear it with white jeans and simple accessories. Dressed up. I'd add metallic shoes and a bag. This yarn is available in an amazing rage of colours, many of them hand dyed in variegated ranges from subtle to bold.
![]() |
| http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-mayfair-top |
There are two versions; one in white cotton and the second in silver metallic rayon. Both are DK yarns which knit to the same gauge and are of course available in other colours.
I always think about garments and accessorizes in the way in which I would wear the item when I'm designing them. The cotton version is in a gorgeous tightly spun cotton with lots of sheen. I could see wearing it often in the summer with my skinny jeans or my cropped turquoise pants. If I knit it in a colour I'd be teaming it with white linen bottoms.
The rayon yarn is very drapey and the sheen of the metallic is subtle enough that you could dress it up or down very easily. It feels great against the body. Dressed down, I'd wear it with white jeans and simple accessories. Dressed up. I'd add metallic shoes and a bag. This yarn is available in an amazing rage of colours, many of them hand dyed in variegated ranges from subtle to bold.
Labels:
# knitting blogs,
Mayfair Top,
New pattern
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