A knitting blog about career transition, personal development and the search for fulfillment.
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Friday, April 30, 2010
An Interview with....Marie Grace Smith
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.
You can find Marie Grace here http://www.mariegracedesigns.com/ and here http://www.ravelry.com/people/mariegrace
Where do you find inspiration?
If you’re at all familiar with my designs you’ll know that my main focus is on children. I’ve been sewing clothing and children’s items a lot longer than I’ve been knitting and I think its safe to say that my knit designs often reflect the same sort of styles I like to sew. I love classic and heirloom style clothing for kids and all the little details that go along with that specific style. I’m always drawn to A-line silhouettes, pretty collars and necklines, and dainty embroidery.
Creating things that are functional is important to me and a new design often starts out as a piece I’d like to knit for one of my own kids. Trying to find that balance between classic, fun, and functional is what its about when you design kid’s stuff.
What is your favourite knitting technique?
I honestly don’t have a favorite. I love everything to do with knitting. As much as I enjoy working in the round I’ll just as easily decide on a design with seams. I love texture and cables but am also enamored with simple shapes and stockinette. I’ll knit back and forth and I’ll cut a steek. I think the whole reason I made the transition from knitter to knit-designer is my drive to try everything.
How did you determine your size range?
When I first started buying knitting patterns because I wanted to knit things for my own kids I figured out pretty quickly that there are precious few patterns sized for older kids so its always been important to me that my designs are available in a wide range of sizes. Most of my patterns are sized from a toddler size 2 up to a youth size 12. Though I just don’t feel every design is appropriate for older kids most are and its not much more work to offer a wider size range.
Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I do look at other designers’ work simply because I’m a knitter. I have subscriptions to magazines and I visit knitting sites and blogs just as much as anybody other knitter. I don’t worry about being influenced by other designers because I feel that I have my own style and aesthetic that I work within.
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I’m not really sure how to answer that. Patterns should always be clear and understandable no matter what experience level they cater to. At the same time there’s so much information out there in the form of online tutorials, books, and classes that anybody can find an answer to almost any question or instructions for a technique. I think its up to knitters to investigate new things and to be motivated enough to get their questions answered by doing a little research.
I’ve made it a point to list “Skills Needed” on all my patterns so knitters will always know what to expect before they purchase the pattern which I think is helpful.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I’ve always done all my own knitting. I did try to use a sample knitter once and though she did a great job I found that I felt really distant from my own design. I often make changes to ideas as I go and that’s something that’s harder to do once you’ve handed it off to another knitter. I may consider a sample knitter again in the future but only for completed designs that I’ve already knit myself and need extra samples of for trade shows or something like that.
Did you do a formal business plan?
What’s a business plan?
Do you have a mentor?
No, but there are many designers I admire and learn from just by paying attention to discussions and reading interviews and articles.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Not really. I’ve just sort of gone where it takes me. I’ve been content to primarily self publish. I’m considering some bigger projects in the near future but really I’m just doing what works for me as I go.
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I doubt I’d be doing this at all if it weren’t for the Internet. I “accidentally” started designing right when knitting blogs and down loadable patterns started really taking off. I honestly believe I was just at the right place at the right time. Though things have grown and my patterns are available in printed form through Deep South Fibers I continue to use the Internet to offer pattern downloads plus all the fun stuff like blogging and writing the occasional tutorial as well as interacting socially with other knitters and crafters. The internet also makes it easier for somebody like me who has very little business experience to be able to learn about things like advertising and allows for opportunities I otherwise wouldn’t have or couldn’t afford to take part in.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
Absolutely! I’ve been working with Joan Beebe exclusively for a while now and could never thank her enough for catching all my weird math and backward thinking. I’m an extremely visual knitter/designer so there’s often a really important chunk lost between what I mean and what I write down. Joan’s never ending patience is invaluable. I wouldn’t consider publishing anything without working with a dependable tech editor.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Balance is one of those things that always seems to be just out of reach. If I’m working I want to be outside hiking or playing with the kids. If I’m playing I feel like I should be working. Really I just try to feel like I’ve made some progress every day whether its writing up a pattern, finishing a project around the house, or weeding the garden. If all I manage to do with my day is hang out with the family and end the day feeling good, that’s good enough.
How do you deal with criticism?
Not very well. One nasty email is often enough to wreck my whole day and I have a hard time shaking it off. I think that sometimes people don’t realize that most designers go out of their way to make sure patterns are correct and a project will turn out the way it should but we aren’t magical. We can’t make every design fit every body perfectly and we aren’t responsible for another knitters yarn substitution decisions. Most of us work to the standards set down for us and do our very best to write clean, clear instructions. Really, I’m just a mom sitting here in my kitchen trying to figure out what to make for dinner and wondering if I have time to throw in one more load of laundry. I think sometime customers forget there’s a real person on the other side of the pattern.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
If that ever happens I’ll let ya know. I’m very lucky to have a supportive partner both financially and emotionally. Its important to both of us that I be home with the kids so the fact that I’ve found a way to make a little money to contribute to the household and do something fulfilling just for me is a total bonus.
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?Use a tech editor. Listen carefully when other designers talk business. Be as helpful as you can but don’t allow yourself to be walked on.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Luxe Knits
I ask the question, "Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?" in my weekly interviews. I personally look at everything: art, nature, textiles, mainstream fashion and the work of other Knitters. I never know where their inspiration will take me but I love the ride!
Luxe Knits really intrigued me. The stying was retro glamour but at the same time it had a timeless quality. There were a number of garments that had a ladylike sensibility that appealed to my sense of style as well as some that were presented with the young knitter in mind.
Knitted skirts are very difficult to do successfully and there are 2 in this book that work well. Hand knit skirts are an item best worn by those with a slender figure but the A-line shape of these would flatter more body shapes. The tonal skirt in particular avoided the extra weight hand knits can add and actually looked a little floaty. That same element was used in a summer dress with a smocked bodice. The cable skirt would be harder to wear but I think the wide panels between the cables helped to cut down on the visual bulk. It was knit with a sport weight alpaca yarn that probably helped to make a drapey fabric.
The schematics are separate from the projects appearing at the back of the book. I would prefer that they appear with each pattern but it may have been done that way to save on layout space.
There is also small section of 4 crochet patterns. One incorporates a mainly knitted top with a free form crochet back section.
This book has a good variety of projects and as a designer I liked the approach of organizing around the techniques used, I love to play with one technique in different formats and I could see how Laura Zukaite did the same in her design process.
Laura has a new book coming out soon so I will look forward to seeing that one as well. You can find Laura here http://laurazukaite.blogspot.com/ Head on over and check out her older posts as well to see a number of the book projects. She also has a sweater published here http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTdragonfly.html
Has anyone knit from this book if you have I'd be interested in seeing your comments.
Luxe Knits really intrigued me. The stying was retro glamour but at the same time it had a timeless quality. There were a number of garments that had a ladylike sensibility that appealed to my sense of style as well as some that were presented with the young knitter in mind.
Knitted skirts are very difficult to do successfully and there are 2 in this book that work well. Hand knit skirts are an item best worn by those with a slender figure but the A-line shape of these would flatter more body shapes. The tonal skirt in particular avoided the extra weight hand knits can add and actually looked a little floaty. That same element was used in a summer dress with a smocked bodice. The cable skirt would be harder to wear but I think the wide panels between the cables helped to cut down on the visual bulk. It was knit with a sport weight alpaca yarn that probably helped to make a drapey fabric.
The schematics are separate from the projects appearing at the back of the book. I would prefer that they appear with each pattern but it may have been done that way to save on layout space.
There is also small section of 4 crochet patterns. One incorporates a mainly knitted top with a free form crochet back section.
This book has a good variety of projects and as a designer I liked the approach of organizing around the techniques used, I love to play with one technique in different formats and I could see how Laura Zukaite did the same in her design process.
Laura has a new book coming out soon so I will look forward to seeing that one as well. You can find Laura here http://laurazukaite.blogspot.com/ Head on over and check out her older posts as well to see a number of the book projects. She also has a sweater published here http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTdragonfly.html
Has anyone knit from this book if you have I'd be interested in seeing your comments.
Monday, April 26, 2010
The Bizarre and Brilliant World of Knitted Science
I'm always fascinated by the things people choose to knit. Take a look here http://discovermagazine.com/photos/03-the-bizarre-and-brilliant-world-of-knitted-science
All the items were produced by different Knitters who have completely different professions some science based. If you follow the links Emily Stoneking has an Etsy shop http://www.etsy.com/shop/CraftyHedgehog with more traditional knit toys.
There is an article about the knitted brain here http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1118052/Pictured-The-anatomically-correct-model-human-brain--wool.html
I'm slightly creeped out by a few of these things but awed by the designers ingenuity in the way the knitting represents the intended science concept. I suspect that the technical challenge was often the motivation for the knitting. A few of the items are simply beautiful and belong in the art world more than the craft world for those of us who make a distinction. (I'm not yet clear in my own mind exactly if that distinction is more than semantics or elitism or if it matters at all).
What I do love is the whimsical nature of some of the pieces, the pure joy I have looking at them and the knowledge that there are some fabulous Knitters out there doing more of this that I will get to see in the future.
Friday, April 23, 2010
An Interview with ...Jared Flood
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.
You can find Jared here http://brooklyntweed.blogspot.com/
Where do you find inspiration?
It's hard to pin down just one source, but Architecture is a common source of inspiration. Knitting is architecture in many ways, so the translation makes a lot of sense for me. I also collect traditional and antique knitting literature (books, leaflets, patterns, archival photographs) and find lots of inspiration in traditional hand knit garments. I love the rich history and techniques that have been present in knitting for hundreds of years, and love to play with ways of bringing them into a more contemporary context for today's knitters.
It's hard to pin down just one source, but Architecture is a common source of inspiration. Knitting is architecture in many ways, so the translation makes a lot of sense for me. I also collect traditional and antique knitting literature (books, leaflets, patterns, archival photographs) and find lots of inspiration in traditional hand knit garments. I love the rich history and techniques that have been present in knitting for hundreds of years, and love to play with ways of bringing them into a more contemporary context for today's knitters.
What is your favourite knitting technique?
I jump around a lot -- I might be on a cable-kick for months, then feel a strong urge rise to work color work designs. That's what I love about knitting, there are so many different subcategories that you can never get bored. My current obsession: Lace.
I jump around a lot -- I might be on a cable-kick for months, then feel a strong urge rise to work color work designs. That's what I love about knitting, there are so many different subcategories that you can never get bored. My current obsession: Lace.
How did you determine your size range?
Sometimes the size range is effected by a specific design and how well it will translate, but in general I try to follow a wide range for sizing to make patterns accessible to as many knitters as possible.
Sometimes the size range is effected by a specific design and how well it will translate, but in general I try to follow a wide range for sizing to make patterns accessible to as many knitters as possible.
Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I definitely look at other designers work. My favorite part of design is that I feel like I'm engaged in a much larger conversation -- I think it's important to see what people are doing and be familiar with things that are going on outside of your own subjective world. That said, it is equally important to know and follow your own clear vision. I think a balance is key.
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I don't think about it too much -- I'm concerned mostly with finding a clear, accessible way of sharing my work with people. I don't think of it is 'dumbing down' or simplifying, but creating a more easily understood language so things don't seem as difficult or scary for knitters. In general I think most things in knitting are rather simple to understand if they can be explained in the proper way, which is often the problem. I've been recently exploring new, more visual ways of writing patterns.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I do almost all of my knitting myself, at least for the prototype of a garment. I always have pieces test-knit, and work with 2 to 3 test-knitters/tech-editors whose work I know well and trust. I think it's important to have something knit by someone else before it's released to the world. This is a luxury that you have when self-publishing, or publishing individual patterns that you lose when working on deadlines for magazines, books, etc.
Did you do a formal business plan?
Over the last 2 years I think I have one in place that is finally working. I didn't sit down and figure it all out at once, but have been refining it as I go, and learning a lot about how to strike a good balance between work and the rest of life has been a gradual process. I love my job though, despite the challenge that an unconventional model can pose from day to day.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Not really. I've worked one out that is right for me, and continue to change it as I see necessary as I work more and learn new and better ways of doing things.
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
It's solely responsible! I got my start as a designer publicly, as a blogger. The Internet has been the platform that has carried me and allowed me to communicate and share my work with others.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
Absolutely. Writing patterns can be time-consuming and mind-numbing, so having 1 or 2 sets of fresh eyes looking over everything is absolutely crucial for catching things that you wouldn't on your own. I also like having discussions with my tech editors about the patterns before they go public: what works, what doesn't, what did you like, what can we do better next time, etc.
Absolutely. Writing patterns can be time-consuming and mind-numbing, so having 1 or 2 sets of fresh eyes looking over everything is absolutely crucial for catching things that you wouldn't on your own. I also like having discussions with my tech editors about the patterns before they go public: what works, what doesn't, what did you like, what can we do better next time, etc.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
This is my constant struggle. I do feel like I work too much, but that's always how I've been. Since the actual KNITTING is shared between my job and my hobby, that's a grey area, but balancing the rest of the work(e-mailing, designing, illustrating, pattern layouts, photography, etc.) is something that is more identifiable as "work." For these things, I find it helpful to set aside certain hours of the day when I generally feel most organized, productive, and alert, and use these times to attack my work very systematically. A self-imposed structure is very important as a way of keeping your personal life intact, I think!
How do you deal with criticism?
How do you deal with criticism?
I think it's very important -- I'm always open to it, and obviously appreciate it when it is
delivered in a constructive way!
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Probably 2 years of pretty consistent, hard work before I felt comfortable having this be my primary occupation.
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Make sure you love doing it! The time-consuming part never goes away, so having a passion is the absolute key foundation. Also, be creative in solving problems, not just as a designer, but also as a business person
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Pure Knits
In my interviews I ask the question "Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?" I ask this question because one of my test knitters told me about another designer who never looks at knitting books or magazines because of this fear. I look at everything. When I teach creativity one of my workshops tasks is for students to pick out a sweater design that they don't like and fix it so that they do like the end result. I do this myself regularly as a creative exercise in my head. Usually by the time I'm done the garment is no longer recognizable and it often proves to be a jumping off point for a totally different design.
I live in a condo so I don't have the room (or the budget) to buy all of the great knitting books out there. I do buy technique based books as I use them over and over again. I take the pattern books out of the library so I can look at them. Last year when I was deciding on a style for Robin Hunter designs I looked at every book and magazine I could before deciding that I would use a mannequin to photograph my knitting.
Last week I got Pure Knits from the library. It's a collection of patterns knit in shades of white. I've seen runway designers use this strategy of only one colour in the past. It allows the viewer to be more focused on other details. It's a good choice for hand knits as the stitch definition in the photo's is great. The clarity is so good that in a few spots I was able to critique the finishing or see some uneven stitches. I think that's a good thing as many Knitters are far to critical of their own work setting impossible standards that no Knitter could live up to. Often they forget that some detail is lost in photographs and then compare their own work and see it as inferior.
The book went around the table at my Thursday night knitting group to somewhat mixed reviews. I rarely knit from patterns so I won't critic specific designs. I will note that I did not like the stying very much. The garments were often layered over other clothing in ways that did not do them justice. As an example a camisole over a tank. To my eye this looks heavy.
I really liked Erika Seelinger's Pilatus Hat and Scarf set. It was shown two different ways and I could see many men wearing them proudly unlike some designs for men that read like mummy dressing up a little boy. There are a few garments that appeared to have stretched out necklines so I'm not sure if they were meant to be that way or not. One garment that I especially liked was photographed poorly with the model twisting her shoulders back, I know many Knitters will pass a good garment if they can't visualize it on their own body. The photo made it appear that the garment hung oddly on the body, fortunately the two detail shots were better.
I did see a problem with with a few of the schematics. The proportions seemed out of whack with the garments, as an example the Nicole Cardigan. The torso on the schematic had a measurement of 21 inches long for the body but proportionally with the armhole it looked far longer. The width was also narrower. When I measured it was .714 of the length but the actual ratio of the measurements was .809. It was inconsistent as some schematics were proportionally correct. This is a pet peeve of mine as it I think that's part of the reason Knitters feel that their garments don't turn out the way they expect. The book is a compilation of 16 designers tied together with the single colour choice. Sometimes it felt as though the designs were a little too far apart from one another to be showcased in a single book.
If anyone has knit any of the patterns please feel free to post comments about your results.
Monday, April 19, 2010
The Scottish Tam
This is my latest published pattern. It's been up for a few days and you can find it here http://www.patternfish.com/patterns/5742 . When you get there look at the photo of the hat's top to really appreciate the long colour run of the yarn. I'm working on a cardigan in this yarn and one more hat pattern should be up on patternfish.com soon.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
A Celebration of Life
My Father passed away last Wednesday morning. He had been in hospital since March 19th after a fall that broke his hip. We had the funeral on Thursday. The minister who officiated did a wonderful job. I asked him to make the service a celebration of my Father's life and to acknowledge his incredible generosity to my sister and I.
Last fall after my sister attended the funeral of a friends Mother she spoke to me about the possibility of pre-arranging my Fathers funeral. We decided that it would be a good idea to make the decisions while we weren't distraught with grief. We met with a lovely young women who specialized in pre-arrangements. One of the things she suggested was that we write our eulogies at that time. We did and it was such a good idea as we were both able to focus on the happy times. We wrote about the passions of his life, our mother, carpentry, reading, gardening, music, our many cats and theatre. Neither of us felt up to reading them ourselves at the service so the minister read them for us.
I'm so glad that I wasn't working. It meant that I was able to spend long hours at the hospital during his last few days. My sister's office gave her an emergency leave so we were there together. I also want to thank all of our friends who were so supportive during this sad time. My husband and I are having a quiet weekend at home to decompress and I look forward to getting back our normal lives. I'll be keeping those happy memories in mind as I start to plant my own garden this summer and when I listen to music or pet my own two dear cats. So from my Dad's favourite musical Fiddler on the roof a toast.
To life! To life! L'chai-im! L'chai-im, l'chai-im, to life!
Last fall after my sister attended the funeral of a friends Mother she spoke to me about the possibility of pre-arranging my Fathers funeral. We decided that it would be a good idea to make the decisions while we weren't distraught with grief. We met with a lovely young women who specialized in pre-arrangements. One of the things she suggested was that we write our eulogies at that time. We did and it was such a good idea as we were both able to focus on the happy times. We wrote about the passions of his life, our mother, carpentry, reading, gardening, music, our many cats and theatre. Neither of us felt up to reading them ourselves at the service so the minister read them for us.
I'm so glad that I wasn't working. It meant that I was able to spend long hours at the hospital during his last few days. My sister's office gave her an emergency leave so we were there together. I also want to thank all of our friends who were so supportive during this sad time. My husband and I are having a quiet weekend at home to decompress and I look forward to getting back our normal lives. I'll be keeping those happy memories in mind as I start to plant my own garden this summer and when I listen to music or pet my own two dear cats. So from my Dad's favourite musical Fiddler on the roof a toast.
To life! To life! L'chai-im! L'chai-im, l'chai-im, to life!
Friday, April 16, 2010
An Interview with...Joan Schrouder
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.
What is your favourite knitting technique?
Depends on what I haven't done for a while..... Probably color stranded work, though I also love Bavarian stitch patterns, too. And then I often find myself doing lacy things, so apparently that's important to me as well. And the garment has to flow together, i.e., minimal sewing; though I can do that well enough, I enjoy the challenge of finding ways to *not* use sewing, or to sew/seam in unexpected ways. I want anyone who knits something I designed to feel like they've had fun learning something new.
How did you determine your size range?
Now I don't do a lot of designing these days that requires size ranges. When I do, it definitely has to dovetail with full repeats of the stitch pattern. If that means each size goes up in 4.6" increments, so be it. And because I'm plus size, I usually get into that range as well.
Did you do a formal business plan?
That seems strangely funny to me.
I have always designed, ever since I learned how to knit. Things kind of fell into place for me to submit some of those designs some 20 years ago, so a formal business plan was the farthest thing from my mind. I never planned to make it a full-time job and I still don't.
Teaching knitting has proven more lucrative for me and is where I spend more of my time and energy but I still love designing, probably *because* I don't do it full time. I think it would become very old very fast if I had to devote all my energy to it, and so would teaching, if I had to do it full time. But sticking to a moderate schedule and adding in an occasional design project when and as the spirit moves me keeps it challenging in a fun way.
I suppose I have a bit of a "mental" business plan, and that's as formal as it's every going to get.
Do you have a mentor?
I consider the late Elizabeth Zimmermann as my knitting mentor. I had the great honor to get to know her over about a 10 year period when I attended Knitting Camps from 1979 to 1988 when she was presiding over them. I loved her knitting techniques and her creativity in construction. The "show & tells" we students had was an incredible experience, seeing how some took her techniques and developed them further. I think we loved the challenge of bringing back things that made each other as well as her go "wow!" It was an incredibly rich learning environment brought about by her kind encouragement and enthusiasm.
She challenged me several times to send my designs into magazines and it was at her Camps that I first met some of the XRX/Knitters Magazine editors and showed them my work. Other knitters I met at Camp were also making their way into professional work including Sidna Farley who started teaching at TKGA. She kept bugging me to submit proposals to them until I did, and was accepted. Then XRX started the Stitches conventions, so I found out about submitting for them and started teaching for those as well which I continue to this day. Both of those national stages led to being asked to teach for local guilds and shops across the US and even on cruises; I average about one teaching trip per month.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Gosh, do you think that there could have been one that was even remotely like what I'm doing?
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
It's led me to more teaching gigs as some sponsors have gotten to know me from my posting "tech answers" on the KnitLIst and KnitU and lots of other Yahoo, etc. knitting lists. I've been active on Ravelry in a similar capacity for nearly 2 years now; while I haven't heard of any specific tie-ins to getting gigs because of my postings there, I'd like to think it doesn't hurt, plus it's great mental exercise to try to decipher what someone is describing, coming up with and explaining a solution in easy-to-understand terms, since many profess to be beginning knitters and may not yet have the vocabulary to comprehend lots of knitting abbreviations or "shorthand" terms.
I've not sold patterns on the Internet, but there have been Internet-based KALs of some of my designs which has probably spread the word about them.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
I don't self-publish, so generally my work is tech edited by the publisher or a TE of their choice.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I have an easier time now than in earlier years. I'm retired from my other career (nursing) a few years ago and my sons are grown and out of the house. I'm learning to cut back on commitments for both teaching and designing to keep a sane balance as I don't like my life when it gets too overwhelming. I used to worry that if I turned down a project or gig I might not get another chance. But that hasn't proven to be the case as of yet.
How do you deal with criticism?
I try to be a grown-up about it, reading through evaluations; if there are some common suggestions, that's a pretty good indication to take another look at that particular aspect and see if I can come up with another way to improve things.
But I also realize that I can't be all things to all people. If I've honestly tried my best and someone still decides to be unhappy about something, that's their decision. Occasionally I get a complaint that is just plain ridiculous. That's when I'm grateful that I can laugh at the absurdity and try to put that into the "mental erase" file.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
That was never my goal and fortunately it didn't have to be. The nursing and my husband were there for paying the bills. The knitting pays for itself and the extras in my life.
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Assess your strengths and weaknesses. Become as technically proficient as you can. Plan to always learn something new. Study the ethnic traditions; they have much to teach. Try to put something unique in each design and/or in each new class.
Joan has added some notes here about her gorgeous Kauni Cardigan - not published. Backdrop - Yale Campus, New Haven, CT. This sweater is probably my most complex to date. It has in-the-round shoulder shaping, garter borders integrated into the color stitch pattern, set-in sleeves, sleeve shaping at top/in center.
Joan can be found here http://www.ravelry.com/people/schrouderknits
Where do you find inspiration?
I am inspired by techniques, by construction modes, sometimes by particular stitch patterns which other knitters are continuously coming up with. What happens when I shape a sleeve like this? How do I convert this pattern stitch so that I can knit it in the round and also get it to match at the shoulders with the sleeves - in a range of sizes? Could I really design a sweater to start at the armpit? (well that one's now off the list since Debbie New already had done it!)
I am inspired by techniques, by construction modes, sometimes by particular stitch patterns which other knitters are continuously coming up with. What happens when I shape a sleeve like this? How do I convert this pattern stitch so that I can knit it in the round and also get it to match at the shoulders with the sleeves - in a range of sizes? Could I really design a sweater to start at the armpit? (well that one's now off the list since Debbie New already had done it!)
What is your favourite knitting technique?
Depends on what I haven't done for a while..... Probably color stranded work, though I also love Bavarian stitch patterns, too. And then I often find myself doing lacy things, so apparently that's important to me as well. And the garment has to flow together, i.e., minimal sewing; though I can do that well enough, I enjoy the challenge of finding ways to *not* use sewing, or to sew/seam in unexpected ways. I want anyone who knits something I designed to feel like they've had fun learning something new.
How did you determine your size range?
Now I don't do a lot of designing these days that requires size ranges. When I do, it definitely has to dovetail with full repeats of the stitch pattern. If that means each size goes up in 4.6" increments, so be it. And because I'm plus size, I usually get into that range as well.
Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I'm influenced by their work all the time and I love that as well as count on it. I can be intrigued by a well-executed shawl collar and then I like to see if I can put it on an entirely different type of sweater and pull it off in a different stitch Pat and shape it with short rows instead of stair-step cast-ons or bind-offs. If you're familiar with the February Lady Sweater that Pamela Wynne designed based on Elizabeth Zimmermann's Baby sweater in the Feb. chapter of KNITTERS ALMANAC....., well I call the sweater that I designed for myself based on Pamela's sweater my "August Lady's Sweater". Mine is a pullover; Pamela's is a cardigan. Mine is V-neck vs her crew neck. Mine is plain stockinette in the yoke vs her garter. I used a different lace st in the body and sleeves vs hers, and a different gauge, so all the numbers were mine. Oh, and I added a lace collar to mine. About the only things in common were that they were both top-down raglans. But I hadn't even considered doing mine until I saw hers. Funny, the path that a design can take you.
Now I'm not planning at this point to write up/sell that design, but I have no fear that it is its own independent design and if the opportunity present itself where it would be a good fit, then I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
Now I'm not planning at this point to write up/sell that design, but I have no fear that it is its own independent design and if the opportunity present itself where it would be a good fit, then I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I have had 1 or 2 sample knitters in the past but now I don't accept any short design deadlines so I do the work myself. I've never used test knitters for different sizes - just not enough time nor would I get paid enough to cover that expense. And I refuse to use volunteer test knitters; I don't think it's fair to them. I find that between a good tech editor and my experience we've managed to catch most egregious errors without having to test knit. (now watch me get burnt for saying that!)
I have had 1 or 2 sample knitters in the past but now I don't accept any short design deadlines so I do the work myself. I've never used test knitters for different sizes - just not enough time nor would I get paid enough to cover that expense. And I refuse to use volunteer test knitters; I don't think it's fair to them. I find that between a good tech editor and my experience we've managed to catch most egregious errors without having to test knit. (now watch me get burnt for saying that!)
Did you do a formal business plan?
That seems strangely funny to me.
I have always designed, ever since I learned how to knit. Things kind of fell into place for me to submit some of those designs some 20 years ago, so a formal business plan was the farthest thing from my mind. I never planned to make it a full-time job and I still don't.
Teaching knitting has proven more lucrative for me and is where I spend more of my time and energy but I still love designing, probably *because* I don't do it full time. I think it would become very old very fast if I had to devote all my energy to it, and so would teaching, if I had to do it full time. But sticking to a moderate schedule and adding in an occasional design project when and as the spirit moves me keeps it challenging in a fun way.
I suppose I have a bit of a "mental" business plan, and that's as formal as it's every going to get.
Do you have a mentor?
I consider the late Elizabeth Zimmermann as my knitting mentor. I had the great honor to get to know her over about a 10 year period when I attended Knitting Camps from 1979 to 1988 when she was presiding over them. I loved her knitting techniques and her creativity in construction. The "show & tells" we students had was an incredible experience, seeing how some took her techniques and developed them further. I think we loved the challenge of bringing back things that made each other as well as her go "wow!" It was an incredibly rich learning environment brought about by her kind encouragement and enthusiasm.
She challenged me several times to send my designs into magazines and it was at her Camps that I first met some of the XRX/Knitters Magazine editors and showed them my work. Other knitters I met at Camp were also making their way into professional work including Sidna Farley who started teaching at TKGA. She kept bugging me to submit proposals to them until I did, and was accepted. Then XRX started the Stitches conventions, so I found out about submitting for them and started teaching for those as well which I continue to this day. Both of those national stages led to being asked to teach for local guilds and shops across the US and even on cruises; I average about one teaching trip per month.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Gosh, do you think that there could have been one that was even remotely like what I'm doing?
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
It's led me to more teaching gigs as some sponsors have gotten to know me from my posting "tech answers" on the KnitLIst and KnitU and lots of other Yahoo, etc. knitting lists. I've been active on Ravelry in a similar capacity for nearly 2 years now; while I haven't heard of any specific tie-ins to getting gigs because of my postings there, I'd like to think it doesn't hurt, plus it's great mental exercise to try to decipher what someone is describing, coming up with and explaining a solution in easy-to-understand terms, since many profess to be beginning knitters and may not yet have the vocabulary to comprehend lots of knitting abbreviations or "shorthand" terms.
I've not sold patterns on the Internet, but there have been Internet-based KALs of some of my designs which has probably spread the word about them.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
I don't self-publish, so generally my work is tech edited by the publisher or a TE of their choice.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I have an easier time now than in earlier years. I'm retired from my other career (nursing) a few years ago and my sons are grown and out of the house. I'm learning to cut back on commitments for both teaching and designing to keep a sane balance as I don't like my life when it gets too overwhelming. I used to worry that if I turned down a project or gig I might not get another chance. But that hasn't proven to be the case as of yet.
How do you deal with criticism?
I try to be a grown-up about it, reading through evaluations; if there are some common suggestions, that's a pretty good indication to take another look at that particular aspect and see if I can come up with another way to improve things.
But I also realize that I can't be all things to all people. If I've honestly tried my best and someone still decides to be unhappy about something, that's their decision. Occasionally I get a complaint that is just plain ridiculous. That's when I'm grateful that I can laugh at the absurdity and try to put that into the "mental erase" file.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
That was never my goal and fortunately it didn't have to be. The nursing and my husband were there for paying the bills. The knitting pays for itself and the extras in my life.
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Assess your strengths and weaknesses. Become as technically proficient as you can. Plan to always learn something new. Study the ethnic traditions; they have much to teach. Try to put something unique in each design and/or in each new class.
Joan has added some notes here about her gorgeous Kauni Cardigan - not published. Backdrop - Yale Campus, New Haven, CT. This sweater is probably my most complex to date. It has in-the-round shoulder shaping, garter borders integrated into the color stitch pattern, set-in sleeves, sleeve shaping at top/in center.
Friday, April 9, 2010
An Interview with....Nancy Bush
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.
You can find Nancy here http://www.woolywest.com/
Where do you find inspiration?
I like to build my designs around something meaningful to me. Thinking about a tradition, my travels or an experience gives me a way of focusing on the task at hand and also allows me to set some type of boundary to the project. I like to look to my experiences as inspiration, in the context of the tradition I am focusing on.
What is your favorite knitting technique?
It depends on what I am working on at the time. I think I am most interested in knitting lace at the moment.
How did you determine your size range?
It has been a long time since I designed a sweater, but when I was, I usually made the sample in a medium size and went up or down from there. When I design socks, they are usually a ladies medium, sometimes a man’s medium. I have not done very many children’s garments.
Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
Sometimes, just to see what is happening outside my own little world. I don’t think it is a bad thing to be influenced by another’s work, as long at that influence is recognized. I am very inspired by traditional knitting, where the designer is usually anonymous.
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I believe patterns should be clearly written and well explained.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I do most of my knitting myself. On a few occasions I have help from friends, to knit a second sock or another version of a shawl and to test the patterns.
Did you do a formal business plan?
No. I started working in the fiber world in my 20’s and it just evolved. I didn’t have a plan at all.
Do you have a mentor?
In terms of a mentor being a trusted advisor, certainly. I have a number of close friends that I can call on for advice, can consult with and get help with solidifying my thoughts. One such friend is Jeane Hutchins, the editor at PieceWork Magazine. She has been a great help to me, not only for my work with PieceWork, but my work in general.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No.
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
Probably more than I realize. I don’t have much time to spend with Internet searches. I hear about groups who are knitting all the socks in Knitting on the Road, for instance and it makes me so happy that folks like my work, but I can’t follow it all, or I wouldn’t get the designs and articles done that they are enjoying.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
Absolutely! I am fortunate to work with the tech editors at Interweave Press for most of my designing and they are fabulous. I think a tech editor is a necessary part of the designing process.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
This is very hard to do, for me. I try to take time away from work, but the work is always there. I am trying to step away more, to walk the dog more, but sometimes work just takes over.
How do you deal with criticism?
Try to learn from it and to find a way to use it in a positive way.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I started out running a yarn store (in 1980) and it seemed like a long time before I could say I was ‘supporting’ myself with it. It was only when I started teaching and designing as well, that I felt I was truly able to support myself..
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
I have always believed that in order to know something well, ones needs to look to its history. This is true for knitting. I would advise anyone thinking to pursue a career in knitting to learn as much a possible about the traditions the the ‘tried and true’ techniques that have been part of those traditions.
I like to build my designs around something meaningful to me. Thinking about a tradition, my travels or an experience gives me a way of focusing on the task at hand and also allows me to set some type of boundary to the project. I like to look to my experiences as inspiration, in the context of the tradition I am focusing on.
What is your favorite knitting technique?
It depends on what I am working on at the time. I think I am most interested in knitting lace at the moment.
How did you determine your size range?
It has been a long time since I designed a sweater, but when I was, I usually made the sample in a medium size and went up or down from there. When I design socks, they are usually a ladies medium, sometimes a man’s medium. I have not done very many children’s garments.
Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
Sometimes, just to see what is happening outside my own little world. I don’t think it is a bad thing to be influenced by another’s work, as long at that influence is recognized. I am very inspired by traditional knitting, where the designer is usually anonymous.
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I believe patterns should be clearly written and well explained.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I do most of my knitting myself. On a few occasions I have help from friends, to knit a second sock or another version of a shawl and to test the patterns.
Did you do a formal business plan?
No. I started working in the fiber world in my 20’s and it just evolved. I didn’t have a plan at all.
Do you have a mentor?
In terms of a mentor being a trusted advisor, certainly. I have a number of close friends that I can call on for advice, can consult with and get help with solidifying my thoughts. One such friend is Jeane Hutchins, the editor at PieceWork Magazine. She has been a great help to me, not only for my work with PieceWork, but my work in general.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No.
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
Probably more than I realize. I don’t have much time to spend with Internet searches. I hear about groups who are knitting all the socks in Knitting on the Road, for instance and it makes me so happy that folks like my work, but I can’t follow it all, or I wouldn’t get the designs and articles done that they are enjoying.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
Absolutely! I am fortunate to work with the tech editors at Interweave Press for most of my designing and they are fabulous. I think a tech editor is a necessary part of the designing process.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
This is very hard to do, for me. I try to take time away from work, but the work is always there. I am trying to step away more, to walk the dog more, but sometimes work just takes over.
How do you deal with criticism?
Try to learn from it and to find a way to use it in a positive way.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I started out running a yarn store (in 1980) and it seemed like a long time before I could say I was ‘supporting’ myself with it. It was only when I started teaching and designing as well, that I felt I was truly able to support myself..
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
I have always believed that in order to know something well, ones needs to look to its history. This is true for knitting. I would advise anyone thinking to pursue a career in knitting to learn as much a possible about the traditions the the ‘tried and true’ techniques that have been part of those traditions.
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Blogger for non-techies
photo from http://www.fotosearch.com/photos-images/question-mark.html
If any of you blog using blogger.com maybe someone can answer this question. I often have problems with spacing when I copy my interview questions and answers over into my post. I've tried searching the help section for an answer as to how to correct this but the responses there are about html code. The answers might as well be in a different language as they are meaningless to me. Does anyone have any simple explanation on what I am doing wrong? The post looks fine until I look at the preview where I can see the spacing problems but it does not resolve itself when I use my enter key or space bar. It also seems to be inconsistent within the post. It's simply an issue of aesthetics but I really would like to understand what I'm doing wrong.
Friday, April 2, 2010
An interview with...Ann Budd
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world.
You can find Ann here http://www.annbuddknits.com/
As well many of the projects Ann designed for Interweave Knits and Knitscene are available as printable PDFs from the Interweave Press online store here http://www.interweavestore.com/Knitting/Patterns.html
Where do you find inspiration?
I wish I knew, then I'd be able to tap it at will. Often something hits me as I'm knitting on another project. Sometimes I get an idea when I flip through knitting books and magazines. Sometimes I get an idea and can see the completed project in my mind. Too often, I struggle with swatches to come up with just the right pattern (and sometimes I just give up).
What is your favourite knitting technique?
I'm drawn to texture work that is worked with a single ball of yarn. I get annoyed by the way that the balls tangle with each other and slow me down in colorwork patterns. In fact, I get annoyed with anything that slows down or interrupts my knitting. For example, I prefer to work cables without a cable needle because I don't like to stop and pick up the darn thing.
How did you determine your size range?
Generally, I examine the sizes of similar garments in books and magazines. If a garment is for me, I copy the measurements of a sweater that I have that fits. Lately, I've been knitting mostly socks, which are much easier to size. In some cases I'm more interested in trying out a pattern than making a particular size. The result is that I have a bin of socks of various sizes. They come in handy when I need a gift.
Do you look at other designers work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
It's hard not be influenced by other designs. They are everywhere. All the garments sold in department and specialty stores were designed by someone. I pay attention to what people are wearing on the streets more often than I brouse through knitting books and magazines. Knitting has been around so long and there are so many hundreds of thousands of patterns that I think it's unlikely that anything is really "new".
How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I must live in a vacuum because I'm not aware of this controversy. I do think that every pattern should be written clearly enough that a knitter with intermediate skills can enjoy success. That doesn't mean that tricky or clever techniques should be avoided. Rather, it simply means that sidebars or a glossary of less standard techniques should be included. My opinion has always been that if a knitter wants to knit a particular pattern, she or he should be able to.
How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I have done all my own knitting for the past several years, but that's because I don't knit that much for publication. Most of my time is spent editing and writing. I did get some help with a couple of the sweaters in The Knitter's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns, and was darn happy to get it.
Did you do a formal business plan?
My business plan was to have a job. I was lucky enough to be hired by Interweave Press to do what I love and everything sort of evolved through the years. Unlike many designers, I still have a "day" job of editing books for Interweave. And Interweave has been very good about contracting just about every book idea I've have. To top it off, I have a husband with decent health insurance. That leaves me enormous freedom that many knitwear designers don't have. To be honest, I think it's very difficult to make a living off of knitting alone.
Do you have a mentor?
That's a tough question. So many people have been instrumental in my life, beginning with my father who taught me at an early age that it is possible to love your work. If I were to single out one person it would be Melanie Falick, who, as editor of Interweave Knits, believed in my ability to design and write and pushed me beyond my comfort zone.
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
No. I've been lucky and things have just fallen in place. A business model would be a good idea.
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
Being computer-challenged, I resisted the Internet for a long time. But now I see it as an amazing tool. I started a website and blog (http://www.annbuddknits.com/) in January and am having more fun than I thought possible. (I hope to start selling individual patterns off my website in the next few months.) People who have know me for years suspect that I was abducted by aliens over the holidays.
Do you use a Tech Editor?
Of course! I wouldn't dare make a pattern public that hadn't been scrutinized by at least one other person.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Now that my boys are all teenagers, I have much more time for myself. And because knitting is my hobby, it doesn't feel that I'm always working (though my family might disagree). I've been working freelance for the past couple of years and it has really helped me make time for "life." Ironically, quite often that involves spending time with knitting groups or posting on my blog. On second thought, maybe I don't have a balance.
How do you deal with criticism?
I try to learn from it. I do read the book reviews on Amazon and try to keep those comments in mind as I write and edit books. Typically, though, I discount the really really good reviews and the really really bad ones and assume that the truth is in the middle.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Without my job as an editor for Interweave Press, I wouldn't have been able to support myself until the last couple of years when I started teaching and have gotten royalties from so many books.
What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Because knitting is a slow process, be prepared to knit every waking hour. Try to diversify with different outlets for your work.